4gricultur     •  library 


BULBS 


AND 


Tuberous -Rooted  Plants 


THEIR 


HISTORY,  DESCRIPTION,  METHODS  OF 
PROPAGATION 

AND 

COMPLETE   DIRECTIONS   FOR   THEIR    SUCCESSFUL    CULTURE 

DT  THE 

Garden,  Dwelling  and  Greenhouse 

BY 

O.  L.   ALLEN 


ILLUSTRATED* 


NEW  YORK 

ORANGE   JUDD   COMPANY 
1912 


COPYRIGHT,  1893, 
BY  ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 


PRINTED  IN    U.   S.   A. 


PREFACE. 


The  growing  of  bulbs  to  produce  flowers  in  their 
greatest  perfection,  is  a  branch  of  gardening  peculiar  to 
itself,  and  one  in  which  the  minor,  yet  important  details, 
are  not  generally  understood.  It  is  one  of  the  objects 
of  this  book  to  show  how  the  growing  of  bulbs  can  be 
made  a  pleasure,  or  a  profitable  industry,  by  giving  com- 
plete cultural  instructions  in  detail.  The  flowering  of 
bulbs  is  a  very  simple  matter.  The  bulb,  when  it  comes 
from  the  hands  of  the  grower,  contain?  within  itself  the 
food  for  the  future  flower,  and  it  does  not  require  the 
gardeners'  skill  to  develop  it.  There  are  a  few  necessary 
points  to  be  considered,  and  these  we  have  so  plainly 
stated,  that  many  of  the  supposed  difficulties  in  their 
cultivation  have  been  removed.  Causes  of  failure  have 
been  explained  so  fully,  that  with  but  little  trouble, 
there  need  be  no  fear  of  loss  in  their  cultivation.  The 
growing  of  bulbs,  other  than  the  charms  their  flowers 
possess,  has  many  advantages  over  that  of  any  other 
class  of  flowering  plants  ;  among  others,  and  a  very  great 
one,  is  that  many  of  them  produce  their  flowers  in  very 
early  spring,  at  a  season  when  few  other  plants  are  in 
blossom,  and  yet  when  flowers  are  doubly  valuable  from 
their  rarity.  At  this  season,  in  a  sheltered,  snnny  spot, 
sa  few  clumps  of  Snow-drops,  Crocus  and  Scillas  will  pre- 
sent a  mass  of  color,  in  graceful  forms,  while  the  snow 
yet  lingers  in  shaded  places ;  before  these  are  gone,  the 
Hyacinths  refresh  us  with  their  grateful  fragrance ; 

268711 


iv  PREFACE. 

these  are  soon  followed  by  the  Narcissus  and  showy 
Tulips,  and  all  before  other  vegetation  is  fairly  started. 
In  rapid  succession  follow  the  Crown- imperials,  the  Iris, 
and,  before  these  are  gone,  the  Gladiolus  and  Lilies  com- 
mence their  long  succession  of  bloom.  Interspersed 
with  these  is  a  host  of  other  bulbs,  equally  valuable  for 
their  flowers,  but  whose  names  are  rarely  mentioned. 
Another  advantage  that  bulbs  possess,  is  their  long  period 
of  rest,  which  leaves  the  ground,  half  the  year,  free  for 
other  plants.  The  bulbs  may  be  removed  from  their 
places  of  bloom  into  the  reserve  garden  to  ripen,  which 
makes  their  places  free  for  the  introduction  of  annuals, 
or  other  flowering  plants.  Beginners  have  an  impression 
that  there  are  many  difficulties  to  be  met,  in  the  man- 
agement of  bulbs,  which  must  be  overcome,  in  order  to 
have  them  produce  their  flowers  to  perfection  ;  whereas, 
in  reality,  no  other  plants  are  so  easy  to  manage,  none 
more  showy,  and  none  succeed  as  well  under  all  circum- 
stances, as  the  different  classes  of  bulbs  and  tuberous- 
rooted  plants.  To  facilitate  reference,  the  various  gen- 
era are  alphabetically  arranged  in  this  volume,  except 
the  Amaryllis  group,  which  have  been  brought  together 
on  Pages  10  to  26,  for  the  convenience  of  the  reader- 
A  copious  index  will  be  found  at  the  end  of  the  book. 

C.  L.  ALLEN. 
FLORAL  PARK,  JST.  Y. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Achimenes,            .........  2 

Agapaiithus,   "....•••••  6 

A  Ilium  neapolitanum,  ........  8 

Amaryllis,         .......••  11 

Anemone  coronaria,      ........  27 

Fulgens,  .........  26 

Japunica,      .........  29 

Arum  (Iracunculus,    ........  32 

Babiana, 34 

Begonia,  Tuberous-rooted,             ......  38 

Bessera 43 

Blackberry  Lily, 252 

Caladium,   .  .  .'.  .          .  .  .  .  .47 

Calocliortus',     .........  43 

Calla  or  Richardia,         ........  2G6 

Cal  las,  Field  of, 268-269 

Camassia  esculenta,       ........  51 

Canna, 55 

Convallaria,          .  .  .  .          .  .  .  .  .62 

Crocus,    ..........  68 

Crown  Imperial,  .........  93 

Cyclamen  persicum,             .......  73 

Dahlia,  Double 77 

Single, 80 

tubers, 83,84 

Eranthis,           .........  87 

Fritillaria 93 

Galanthus,        .........  96 

Gladiolus,   ..........  102 

corni  half  grown,  with  old  corm  attached,     ...  117 

conn  with  offsets,            .......  115 

Gloxinias,         .........  132 

Hippeastrum,       .........  n 

Hyacinths,        .........  139 

Double,          ......           •          .           .  150 

Roman,    .........  154 

Hymenocallis,       .........  249 

Iris,  German,    .........  163 

Japan, 165 

Leopard  Flower,         .           .          .           .          .          .           ..  252 

Lilies 190 


vi 


Lilies,  Bateman's  and  Chalcedoniaii,    •          •          *          *          •  204 

Blackberry, 252 

botrytis,  .........  304 

Brown's  (L.  Brownii),      .......  199 

disease,    .........  302 

fungus,          .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .303 

in  Bermuda,  Field  of, 190 

sclerotium,  .........  306 

Speciosum  Rubrum,   .......  223 

Lily  of  the  Valley,          .          . 61 

Milla, 43,232 

Montbretia,            .........  234 

Narcissus,  Group  of .........  237 

Type  of  Hoop  Petticoat, 241 

Ornithogalum  arabicum,    .......  245 

Oxalis. 247 

Pancratium  calathinum,     .......  249 

Peony,  Fine-leaved,        .           .           .           .           .           .           .           .  256 

Moutan,  or  Tree,          .           .           .           .           .           .           .  254 

Ranunculus,  Types  of,   ........  264 

Richardia,         .........  266 

Scilla,           ..........  273 

Snowdrop,         .........  96 

Snowflake,             .........  96 

Sparaxis,            .........  274 

Sprekelia,              .........  11 

Squill,  Siberian, 273 

Tigridia, 276 

Trillium,            .........  279 

Tritonia,      ..........  234 

Tuberose,  Double,.     ........  259 

Tulips,  Types  of,  .  .  .  .  .  ,  .  ,  ..282 

Vallota  purpurea,      ....,..,.  24 

Zephyranthes,      ..........  n 


Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants. 


ACHIMENES. 

This  genus  of  tropical  plants  is  a  very  interesting 
one  for  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory,  but  of  no  practi- 
cal use  out  of  doors  in  temperate  or  cold  climates.  The 
species  come  chiefly  from  Mexico  and  Guatemala ;  a  few 
only  have  been  introduced  from  the  "West  Indies.  They 
are,  strictly  speaking,  greenhouse  tuberous-rooted  peren- 
nials, six  to  eighteen  inches  high,  with  branching  and 
hairy  stems.  The  funnel-shaped  flowers,  about  two 
inches  in  diameter,  crimson,  scarlet,  purple  and  white, 
are  produced  very  freely,  giving  the  plants  a  striking 
appearance.  The  flowers  are  delicate,  will  not  endure 
handling,  and  therefore  are  of  but  little  use  as  cut 
flowers.  This  genus  derives  its  name  from  cheimaino, 
to  suffer  from  cold,  alluding  to  its  tenderness. 

The  tubers  should  be  thickly  planted  about  the  1st 
of  February,  in  shallow  pans  of  light,  sandy  soil,  mixed 
with  sphagnum  or  peat,  carefully  watered  and  given  a 
slight  bottom  heat.  When  the  plants  are  about  an  inch 
high,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  blooming  pans,  or 
pots,  pans  eight  inches  in  diameter  being  preferable ; 
these  will  be  sufficiently  large  for  four  or  five  plants. 
They  should  be  placed  in  a  house  where  the  temperature 
does  not  fall  below  60°  at  night,  and  near  the  glass,  in 
order  that  the  plants  may  grow  strong  and  stocky. 

1 


TUBEEOUS-EOOTED  PLANTS. 


TYPES  OF    IMPEOVED  ACHIMEtfES. 


ACHIMEKES.  3 

Close  attention  must  be  paid  to  watering ;  the  soil  should 
always  be  damp,  but  never  wet,  syringing  frequently  to 
keep  off  red  spiders ;  it  is  better  to  shade  a  little  at  noon, 
if  the  sun  is  very  hot.  When  the  plants  are  about  five 
inches  high  they  should  be  tied  to  small,  inconspicuous 
stakes ;  in  tying,  care  should  be  taken  to  place  the  sticks 
so  that  the  pan  will  be  a  symmetrical  mass  of  green. 
The  plants  will  begin  to  flower  in  June,  when  they 
should  be  kept  partially  shaded,  and  no  longer  syringed, 
and,  in  watering,  one  must  avoid  wetting  the  foliage. 
They  will  keep  in  flower  several  weeks.  After  flowering, 
water  should  be  gradually  withheld,  and  when  the  leaves 
turn  yellow  the  pans  should  be  set  under  a  bench,  and 
the  tubers  must  not  be  disturbed  until  it  is  time  to  start 
again  the  following  season.  With  a  little  care  in  drying 
off  and  starting,  a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  had  the 
entire  year.  This  may  not  be  desirable,  however,  as  in 
winter  there  are  other  plants  of  interest  sufficient  to  fill 
all  the  space  in  the  greenhouse.  The  following  are  the 
most  desirable  of  the  many  species  and  varieties  that 
have  been  introduced  and  favorably  mentioned  : 

SPECIES. 

A.  Candida. — A  tall-growing,  much-branched  spe- 
cies, with  pure  white  flowers. 

A.  coccinea, — One  of  the  first  introduced,  a  native 
of  Jamaica ;  flowers  bright  scarlet. 

A.  hirsuta. — Rose  flowers  with  a  yellow  eye ;  plant 
hairy. 

A.  multiflora. — Many  flowered ;  pale  lilac. 

A.  picta. — The  painted-leaved  Achimenes  ;  flowers 
scarlet,  with  a  yellow  eye. 

HYBRID   VARIETIES. 

Advance. — Flowers  reddish  purple,  lighter  at  the 
eye ;  dwarf,  and  free  of  habit. 


4  BULBS  AKD  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

Excelsior — Rich  violet  purple ;  very  large  and  free, 
with  compact  habit. 

Rollisonii. — Flowers  large,  deep  lavender-blue,  yel- 
low throat,  spotted  with  deep  crimson  ;  very  effective. 

Aurora. — Rich  rosy  scarlet,  with  yellow  throat; 
very  large. 

Diadem.— Crimson-lake,  shaded  carmine,  with  deep 
yellow  eye. 

Meteor. — Flowers  rather  large,  bright  crimson-scar- 
let, yellow  eye,  spotted  carmine ;  very  dwarf  and  free. 

Henderson!. — Rich  orange-salmon,  with  yellow  eye. 

Magnet. — Deep  orange,  spotted  with  crimson,  with 
a  distinct  carmine  zone  ;  a  very  free  flowering  and  beau- 
tiful sort. 

Admiration. — Deep  rose,  spotted  with  carmine, 
white,  throat. 

Leopard. — Bright  magenta  rose,  freely  spotted  at 
the  throat. 

Rosea  Magnifica. — Bright  rose,  with  a  yellow  eye, 
very  finely  spotted ;  a  charming  variety. 

Unique. — Rosy-pink,  deep  yellow  eye,  spotted  crim- 
son ;  a  very  beautiful  variety. 

Ambrose  Verschaffelt. — Flowers  of  good  size, 
pure  white,  with  a  dark-rayed  center. 

Madame  A.  Verschaffelt. — Flowers  large,  pure 
white  ground,  heavily  veined  with  purple;  a  very 
attractive  variety. 

ACTS. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty  dwarf  bulbous  plants,  suit- 
able for  the  rockery,  in  sunny,  sheltered  situations. 
This  genus  was  formerly  included  with  Leucoium,  from 
which  it  is  readily  distinguished  by  its  dwarf  slender 
habit,  the  narrowness  of  its  leaves,  and  the  smallness  of 
the  flowers.  They  are  not  as  hardy,  nor  as  ornamental, 
as  the  Leucoium,  but  are  well  worth  cultivating.  The 
best  of  the  species  are : 


ACIS. — AGAPANTHUS.  5 

A.  autumnalis. — A  pretty  little  plant,  with  pink 
flowers,  produced  in  autumn  before  the  leaves.  It  is  a 
native  of  Spain,  and  properly  a  greenhouse  plant. 

A.  trichophyllum. — A  small  species,  growing  only 
a  few  inches  high.  The  flowers  are  white,  and  produced 
in  the  spring.  It  must  be  grown  in  a  frame  and  pro- 
tected against  frost. 

A.  roseus. — A  very  rare  species,  with  rose-colored, 
drooping  flowers,  produced  in  autumn. 

Named  after  Acis,  Shepherd  of  Sicily,  Son  of  Fau- 
nus  and  the  Nymph  Simaethis. 

AGAPANTHTJS. 
African  Lily. 

This  splendid  genus  is  noticed  because  it  will  be 
expected,  from  the  fact  of  its  being  popularly  known  as 
the  African  Lily.  It  does  not,  strictly  speaking,  how- 
ever, belong  either  to  bulbs  or  tuberous-rooted  plants. 
This  genus  derives  its  name  from  agape,  love,  and 
anthos,  a  flower,  Love  Flower  being  one  popular  name. 
The  Agapanthus  has  been  in  cultivation  more  than  two 
hundred  years,  but  is  rarely  met,  although  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  plants  to  be  found  for  display  in  pots  or 
tubs  upon  the  lawn,  or  in  the  border.  This  is  the  more 
singular,  because  it  is  so  easily  managed,  propagated  and 
preserved.  It  does  well  anywhere,  is  an  ornament  to 
the  greenhouse,  will  thrive  equally  well  in  the  open 
border,  and  may  be  wintered  safely  in  the  cellar,  or  anj 
place  free  from  frost. 

All  the  species  grow  freely  in  good  loam,  which 
should  be  moderately  rich ;  their  great  requirement, 
when  not  at  rest,  is  water ;  this  they  must  have  in  lib- 
eral quantities.  They  require  considerable  room ;  com- 
mencing with  a  single  plant  in  a  six-inch  pot,  it  will 
need  repotting  annually,  giving  it  barely  room  to  extend 


6  BULBS  Atffc  TUBEROCS-ROOTEb  PLANTS. 

its  stems  and  roots.  The  stronger  the  plant,  the  more 
freely  will  it  flower,  providing  it  has  proper  care,  and 
all  that  is  necessary  is  to  give  it  liquid  manure,  two  or 
three  times  during  its  period  of  growth,  with  an  abund- 
ance of  water ;  it  is  better  to  set  the  pot,  or  tub,  in 
which  it  is  grown,  into  a  larger  one,  when  it  commences 
to  throw  up  its  flower  spikes,  then  keep  the  space 


A  CLUSTER  OF  AGAPANTHUS  FLOWERS. 

between  the  two  at  all  times  filled  with  water.  Treated 
in  this  way,  we  have  seen  a  plant  with  more  than  a 
dozen  spikes  of  bloom,  some  of  which  numbered  more 
than  two  hundred  and  fifty  flowers.  After  the  season 
of  flowering  is  past,  gradually  withhold  water,  and  upon 
the  approach  of  cold  weather  remove  to  its  winter  quar- 
ters, where  it  may  remain  until  time  to  put  it  out  of  doors 


AGAPANTHTJS. — AJAX.  7 

for  another  season's  growth.  It  is  by  no  means  an  un- 
sightly object  in  the  greenhouse  during  winter,  because 
of  its  long  graceful  foliage ;  but  it  should  not  be  stimu- 
lated into  growth.  It  is  propagated  by  division,  or  more 
readily  from  seed,  when  it  can  be  obtained  fresh.  Sow 
the  seed  in  the  greenhouse,  in  pans ;  prick  out  when  the 
plants  are  three  inches  high,  and  grow  until  the  plants 
are  large  enough  to  flower,  shifting  as  required.  If  not 
neglected/  they  will  flower  the  third  year. 

The  number  of  species  is  quite  limited.  Although 
quite  a  number  of  varieties  are  offered,  the  variation 
between  them  is  very  slight.  The  following  are  all  that 
are  desirable. 

A.  umbellatus. — The  type,  a  native  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope. 

A.  u.  albidus. — A  variety  with  pure  white  flowers, 
but  differing  in  no  other  respect  from  the  type.  It  is 
quite  scarce,  and  good  flowering  plants  are  rarely  met. 

A.  u.  variegatus. — This  is  well  worth  growing, 
for  its  foliage  alone.  It  is  not  as  vigorous  a  grower  as 
the  species,  but  its  leaves  are  almost  pure  white,  with  a 
few  green  bands.  It  grows  freely,  though  the  leaves  are 
not  as  broad  or  as  long  as  are  those  of  the  type ;  but 
with  such  a  growth  of  graceful  foliage,  so  beautifully 
variegated,  and  crowned  with  an  umbel  of  delicate  blue 
flowers,  the  plant  is  an  ornament  to  any  situation  in 
which  it  may  be  placed. 

A.  u.  flore-pleno. — This  double-flowering  form  is 
identical,  in  all  other  respects,  with  the  species.  We 
have  not  seen  this  variety,  but  it  is  described  as  being 
yery  beautiful,  the  double  flowers  being  more  lasting  and 
valuable  for  bouquets,  or  other  floral  work. 

AJAX. 

A  synonym  of  Narcissus  Pseudo-Narcissus  (Daffodil. ) 


8  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


FLOWERS  AND   BULB  OF    NEAPOLITAN  ALLIUM. 


ALBUC  A.  — ALLITJM. 


ALBUCA. 

A  large  genus  of  uninteresting  bulbs,  closely  allied  to 
the  Ornithogalum,  mostly  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  There  are  more  than  twenty  species ;  they  can 
be  grown  in  a  frame  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Ixias. 

ALLIUM. 

The  Garlic  and  Onion. 

The  name  of  garlic  is  so  associated  with  the  idea  of 
rank  smell  and  flavor,  and  the  plant  itself  is  so  repug- 
nant to  most  persons  of  refined  taste,  that  it  seems  diffi- 
cult to  imagine  that  the  genus  contains  any  species 
worthy  a  place  in  the  ornamental,  or  window  garden. 
Yet,  so  far  from  this  being  the  case,  there  is,  perhaps, 
no  genus  of  bulbous  plants  which  contains  more  pretty 
flowers  than  the  genus  Allium,  or  flowers  of  one  genus 
which  possess  more  interest,  from  their  great  variety, 
as  they  are  quite  distinct  from  each  other,  varying 
•widely  in  color  and  size,  though  still  preserving  so  strong 
a  family  likeness  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  mistake 
them.  The  genus  abounds  almost  everywhere,  most  of 
the  ornamental  species  coming  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  The  following  are  worthy^of  cultivation  in  the 
border  and  window  garden. 

A.  Moly. — A  low-growing  species,  producing,  in 
early  June,  a  mass  of  golden-yellow  flowers.  After  once 
planting,  it  requires  no  further  attention,  being  perfectly 
hardy ;  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe. 

A.  cceruleum. — A  very  pretty  and  showy  species, 
with  bright  blue  flowers;  a  native  of  Eussia,  and  per- 
fectly hardy. 

A.  acuminatum. — A  species  common  in  the  State 
of  Washington  and  Upper  California.  It  has  deep  rose- 
colored  flowers,  and  is  perfectly  hardy. 


10  BULBS  AtfD  TUBEBOUS-ROOTED   PLAKTS. 

A.  neapolitanum. — The  flowers  of  this  handsome 
species  are  white,  and  are  produced  in  large,  loosely- 
spreading  umbels;  the  leaves  are  rather  broad,  sharply 
pointed,  and  of  a  dark,  glossy  green.  This  is  a  beauti- 
ful plant  for  the  window-garden.  Put  three  bulbs  in  a 
five-inch  pot  as  soon  in  the  fall  as  they  can  be  obtained ; 
they  immediately  commence  to  grow,  and  will  be  in 
flower  in  January,  and  keep  in  flower  for  several  weeks. 
A  succession  can  easily  be  kept  up  by  planting  at  inter- 
vals. It  is  also  a  desirable  bulb  for  the  border,  but 
should  be  slightly  protected.  Introduced  from  the 
South  of  Europe  in  1823.  See  engraving,  Page  8. 

A.  pedemontanum. — Flowers  rosy-purple,  large, 
bell-shaped,  in  large,  graceful,  drooping  clusters;  a 
neat  little  plant  for  rock  work,  or  for  the  border,  and 
one  of  the  handsomest  species  grown.  Introduced  from 
Piedmont,  1817. 

This  list  includes  all  the  species  of  real  value, 
although  many  of  the  others  are  equally  interesting,  but 
the  onion  odor  is  so  conspicuous  in  them  that  they  are 
not  likely  to  become  very  popular. 

AMARYLLIS. 

This  interesting  genus  has  had  a  hard  struggle  to 
establish  its  identity.  At  one  period  it  had  numerous 
species,  and  many  sub-genera,  all  very  beautiful.  One 
by  one  these  have  been  removed,  becoming  separate 
genera  themselves,  until  there  is  scarcely  enough  lef  fc  to 
hold  the  name.  Some  eight  distinct  kinds  still  hold,  in 
trade,  the  old  generic  name.  What  is  more  perplexing, 
when  asked  how  best  to  manage  the  Amaryllis,  than  that 
the  reply  may  be  the  one  adapted  to  the  Hippeastrum,  and 
not  at  all  suited  to  the  Amaryllis  ?  In  fact,  the  Amaryl- 
lis is  but  little  known  in  this  country,  while  its  synonyms 
are  extensively  grown  and  highly  appreciated.  Amaryl- 
lis is  now  simply  a  trade  name  for  several  genera,  a  pop- 


AMARYLLIS. 


11 


Amaryllis.  Hippeastrum.  Zephyranthes.  Sprekelia 

TYPES  OF  AMARYLLIS. 


12  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS -ROOTED  PLANTS. 

ular  name  applied  in  the  same  manner  as  that  of  Calla 
Lily  to  Kichardia,  or  Japonica  to  the  Camellia.  The 
genus  formerly  included  Hippeastrum,  Brunsvigia, 
Crinum,  Nerine,  Sprekelia,  Sternbergia,  Vallota  and 
Zephyranthes.  These,  and  their  species  and  varieties, 
will  be  noticed  in  the  above  order  on  the  immediately 
succeeding  pages,  being  here  grouped  together  for  the 
reader's  convenience. 

The  genus  Amaryllis  consists  of  but  one  sjpecies. 

A.  Belladonna. — The  Belladonna  Lily.  A  native 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  it  is  naturalized  in  Madeira, 
and  is  also  found  in  Portugal  and  Italy.  It  would  be 
largely  grown  because  of  the  remarkable  beauty  of  its 
flowers,  if  it  bloomed  a  little  later  in  the  season,  when 
cut  flowers  are  in  greater  demand,  or  if  it  could  be  grown 
outside,  or  even  in  a  cold  frame.  Its  requirements  are 
a  strong  growth  of  the  leaves,  and  absolute  rest  from 
midsummer  till  the  period  of  flowering,  in  September. 
The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  June  or  July,  when  they 
are  at  rest,  in  not  less  than  seven-inch  pots ;  the  soil 
should  be  rather  sandy  and  rich,  but  free  from  fresh 
manure.  The  flowers,  than  which  none  are  more  beau- 
tiful, appear  the  last  of  August ;  they  are  very  large, 
white,  delicately  shaded  with  pink  or  light  purple,  and 
are  immediately  followed  by  leaves,  which  must  have  an 
opportunity  to  perfect  their  growth,  without  injury 
from  frost,  or  neglect  of  any  kind ;  if  they  are  not  so 
perfected  there  will  be  no  flowers  the  following  year. 
This  necessitates  a  favorable  position  in  the  greenhouse, 
which  cannot  be  provided  in  commercial  houses.  In  pri- 
vate establishments,  the  room  for  a  reasonable  number 
of  pots  can  be  well  provided,  and  there  they  should  be 
found,  as  no  finer  objects  for  decorative  purposes  can  be 
seen  than  these,  when  well  grown. 

A.  B.  var.  pallida. — A  variety  with  smaller  flow- 
ers, of  a  paler  color,  formerly  called  Belladonna  minor a 


AMARYLLIS. — HIPPEASTRUM.  13 

is  now  rarely  met.  Propagation  is  effected  by  offsets,  or 
from  seed;  the  latter  is  too  slow  a  process,  excepting 
when  the  seed  can  be  started  without  artificial  heat.  The 
name  Amaryllis  is  supposed  to  have  been  taken  from  a 
famous  shepherdess  mentioned  by  Virgil,  and  distin- 
guished for  her  beauty. 

HIPPEASTRUM. 

This  genus  contains  more  than  fifty  species,  all  of 
which  are  popularly  known  as  Amaryllis.  All  of  them 
are  ornamental  plants,  suited  to  the  greenhouse  and 
window  garden,  or  open  border,  under  certain  condi- 
tions. But  few  plants  are  more  attractive  in  winter  and 
spring  than  most  of  the  species,  while  the  many  beauti- 
ful hybrids,  gorgeous  in  color  and  grand  in  form,  add  to 
their  many  charms.  Their  flowers  have  a  wide  range  of 
color,  and  the  most  remarkable  shades  and  markings; 
the  intensity  of  color  in  some  of  the  species  is  rarely 
equalled  by  that  of  any  other  plant.  Some  of  the  flow- 
ers are  of  the  deepest  and  richest  crimson,  and  blood 
red ;  others  are  nearly  pure  white,  striped,  mottled  and 
blended  in  the  most  striking  and  peculiar  manner ;  some 
are  of  a  rich,  deep  orange,  boldly  marked  with  white,  a 
most  pleasing  combination  of  color.  Some  of  the  species 
are  evergreen.  The  foliage  and  flowers  appearing  simul- 
taneously, mark  the  perfect  plant.  Some  of  the  hybrid 
forms,  as  H.  Williamsi,  are  almost  constant  bloomers, 
a  most  acceptable  feature.  See  engraving,  Page  11. 

No  other  bulbs  hybridize  and  cross-fertilize  more 
freely,  and  the  work  has  been  carried  on  until  the  spe- 
cies have  become  so  mixed  that  plants  grown  from  seed 
of  any  marked  form  are  sure  to  produce  varieties  of 
special  merit.  Each  year  adds  to  the  already  large 
number  of  seedling  forms,  many  varieties  so  entirely 
different  in  form  and  markings,  that  it  seems  as  if  there 
was  no  limit  to  the  possibilities  of  the  plants  for  sur- 


14  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

prises.  So  common  have  the  seedlings  become  that  they 
are  offered  in  immense  quantities  by  the  foreign  florists, 
in  mixtures,  many  of  them  as  unbloomed  seedlings. 
These  we  have  seen  in  flower,  in  large  numbers,  and 
never  saw  anything  more  pleasing.  In  a  house  where 
there  were  several  hundred  in  bloom,  not  a  poor  variety 
was  to  be  seen,  and  some  were  exceptionally  fine ;  there 
were  no  two  alike.  For  purposes  of  decoration  none 
other  than  seedlings  need  be  sought. 

Propagation  by  Seed. — The  seed  should  be  sown 
ds  soon  as  ripe,  as  it  does  not  long  retain  its  vitality. 
In  fact,  the  seed  is,  to  all  appearance,  a  miniature  bulb, 
which  does  not  change  form  when  put  into  the  earth, 
other  than  to  lose  the  coating  that  surrounds  it,  but 
increases  in  size,  like  the  parent  bulb,  fast  or  slow, 
according  to  the  conditions  in  which  it  is  placed.  The 
better  plan  is  to  sow  the  seeds  singly  in  thumb-pots 
of  light  loam,  first  securing  good  drainage ;  plunge  the 
pots  in  clean  sand,  or  ashes,  at  a  temperature  of  from  60° 
to  65°.  They  should  be  kept  in  a  moist  atmosphere, 
and  in  partial  shade.  Under  such  conditions  the  young 
plants  will  make  rapid  growth.  They  need  not  be  shifted 
from  these  pots  until  the  bulbs  are  nearly,  or  quite,  an 
inch  in  diameter,  or  until  the  pots  are  completely  filled 
with  roots,  which  will  be  in  about  a  year.  Then  they 
should  be  changed  into  three-inch  pots,  using  the  same 
kind  of  soil,  or  any  strong  potting  mold.  In  making  the 
shift,  all  possible  care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  dis- 
turbing the  roots,  as  nothing  else  is  so  fatal  to  the  Ama- 
ryllis as  having  its  roots  injured  or  bruised.  Under 
favorable  conditions,  flowering  bulbs  can  be  grown  from 
seed  in  two  years.  It  is  a  common,  in  fact,  the  more 
general,  practice,  to  sow  the  seed  in  pans  or  flats,  and 
prick  them  out  when  the  bulbs  are  about  the  size  of 
large  peas.  "We  do  not  consider  this  plan  a  good  one, 
because  in  pricking  out,  the  roots  are  liable  to  injury, 


HIPPEASTEUM.  15 

and  the  plants  will  receive  a  check,  which  they  should 
not  have  until  their  natural  period  for  rest,  which  will 
be  indicated  by  the  foliage  necking  or  turning  yellow. 

Propagation  by  Offsets. — There  is  but  one  way 
to  propagate  any  desired  variety,  viz.,  by  offsets,  or 
natural  division.  Many  kinds  increase  very  rapidly,  in 
this  manner,  but  great  care  is  necessary  in  handling  the 
bulbs,  to  obtain  good  results.  It  will  not  do  to  hasten 
matters ;  it  is  best  to  leave  the  offsets  until  there  is  a 
natural  separation ;  after  several  offsets  are  formed 
around  the  base  of  the  bulb,  the  larger  ones  will  begin 
to  detach  themselves  gradually,  and  by  the  time  they  are 
nearly  large  enough  to  bloom  they  are  but  slightly  held. 
Then,  even,  great  care  must  be  taken  in  separating,  in 
order  to  avoid  breaking  the  roots,  which  become  much 
interlaced.  The  operation  should  be  performed  when  the 
plants  are  at  rest,  by  taking  the  old  bulbs  from  the  pot, 
and  separating  them  with  as  little  disturbance  as  possible. 
Repot  the  old  bulb,  with  such  offsets  as  do  not  readily 
part,  using  as  small  a  pot  as  will  answer,  and  allow  a 
little  fresh  soil  all  around  the  ball.  Pot  the  offsets 
singly,  avoiding  too  large  pots ;  a  four-inch  pot  is  suffi- 
ciently large  to  hold  a  flowering  bulb.  Keep  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  bulb  above  the  level  of  the  soil ;  see  that 
the  roots  are  spread  evenly  and  not  crowded  or  bruised  ; 
give  them  a  good  watering,  and  place  them  where  they 
are  to  remain  until  they  flower. 

Cultivation. — The  cultivation  of  the  Hippeastrums 
is  very  simple;  they  prefer  a  strong  loam,  free  from 
decayed  vegetable  matter,  and  a  season  of  rapid  growth, 
followed  by  a  season  of  perfect  rest,  until  started  again. 
In  their  native  -habitat  they  have  a  season  continuously 
wet,  followed  by  one  correspondingly  dry.  The  heat  is 
most  intense  about  the  time  the  plants  have  completed 
their  growth  and  the  bulbs  are  ripening.  The  evergreen 
varieties  require  a  rest,  but  must  not  be  suffered  to 


16  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

become  quite  dry;  water  just  sufficient  to  keep  the 
leaves  from  drooping.  The  bulbs  should  remain  in  the 
pots,  when  at  rest ;  too  frequent  shifting,  and  too  much 
pot  room,  is  decidedly  injurious.  Because  the  pot  is 
full  of  roots,  it  is  no  indication  that  the  bulb  needs 
repotting;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  a  sure  indication  of 
bloom.  The  pots  can  never  be  too  full  of  roots,  as  the 
bulbs  flower  all  the  better  for  being  cramped  ;  it  is  aston- 
ishing how  little  soil  they  require.  With  good  drainage, 
a  very  little  sweet  soil,  and  plenty  of  clean  healthy  roots, 
flowers  are  secured.  We  notice  the  species  and  some 
of  the  leading  varieties.  The  generic  name  comes  from 
hippeus,  a  knight,  and  astron,  a  star,  referring  to  the 
shape  of  H.  equestre,  Equestrian  Star. 

H.  Ackermanni. — Crimson;  very  large  and  fine, 
the  fruitful  parent  of  many  of  the  large  flowering  sorts. 
A  cross  between  H.  Aulicum  and  H.  Johnsoni. 

H.  Ackermanni  pulcherrima. — Another  cross  of 
the  same  parentage;  the  flowers  are  larger  and  more 
spreading,  differing  from  the  species,  in  the  green  stripe 
in  the  center  of  the  petals. 

H.  Albert!  flore-pleno. — Flowers  orange-red,  yel- 
lowish toward  the  base  of  each  petal ;  full  double,  about 
six  inches  across ;  supposed  to  be  a  double  form  of  H. 
equestre. 

H.  Aulicum. — A  strong-growing  species  from  Rio 
de  Janiero;  flowers  large,  deep  crimson,  green  at  the 
base,  with  a  blotch  of  red-purple  above  the  green. 

H.  Aulicum  platypetala. — Flowers  very  similar 
to  the  last,  with  the  tips  of  the  petals  green  and  yellow  ; 
bulbs  very  large ;  flowers  last  long  after  cutting. 

H.  equestre-fulgida  (Barbadoes  Lily). — Flowers 
bright  orange,  margined  with  white  ;  very  striking. 

H.  equestre  flore-pleno. — A  magnificent  variety; 
flowers  nearly  as  double  as  the  rose,  of  a  rich  orange 
color.  This  and  the  preceding  are  natives  of  the  West 
Indies,  Guiana  and  Chili. 


HIPPEASTRtJM.  1? 

H.  Johnson!  (Johnson's  Hybrid). — This  is  one 
of  the  very  earliest  hybrids,  a  cross  between  H.  regincB  and 
H.  vittatum,  and  is  still  a  popular  variety ;  it  is  one  of  the 
most  robust  and  showy,  and  a  wonderful  bloomer. 
Flowers  dull  crimson,  with  a  white  stripe  down  the  cen- 
ter of  each  petal.  A  good  bulb  will  frequently  throw 
up  four  spikes  of  flowers.  It  is  popularly  known  as  the 
Johnsoni  Lily. 

H.  Johnsoni  var.  grandiflora. — This  has  larger 
flowers,  with  broader  white  stripes. 

Autumn  Beauty. — A  delicate  rose  color,  retic- 
ulated with  rosy-pink,  the  leaves  being  striped  with 
white,  like  those  of  H.  reticulatum. 

H.  miniatum. — A  native  of  Chili;  flowers  bright 
scarlet. 

Mrs.  Garfield. — This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  hybrid  forms ;  a  cross  between  H.  reticulatum  and 
Defiance,  retaining  the  variegated  leaf  of  H.  reticulatum, 
much  lengthened  and  widened.  The  flower  scape  rises 
to  about  two  feet,  producing  from  four  to  five  flowers 
six  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  rosy  pink  color,  with  a  white 
stripe  in  the  center  of  each  petal. 

H.  pardinum  (Leopard-spotted). — Kich  creamy 
yellow,  profusely  dotted  with  crimson ;  the  whole  flower 
almost  fully  expanding,  so  as  to  leave  little  or  no  throat, 
thus  revealing  the  whole  of  its  beauty ;  the  spots  have  a 
peculiarly  rich  effect  on  the  cream-colored  ground. 

H.  pratense  (Meadow). — Flowers  brightest  scarlet, 
sometimes  feathered  with  yellow  at  the  base. 

H.  psittacinum  (Parrot  Amaryllis). — A  species 
with  green  and  scarlet  flowers ;  it  is  unique  and  beauti- 
ful, and  has  been  the  parent  of  many  seedlings. 

H.  pyrrochroum  (Flame-colored). — Flowers  deep 
red,  of  good  size,  four  or  five  on  a  scape ;  throat  shading 
to  a  greenish  yellow. 


18  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

H.  reticulatum. — This  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  the  species;  flowers  a  delicate,  soft  pink  and 
white,  about  three  inches  in  diameter ;  veins  darker,  and 
giving  to  the  whole  flower  a  netted  and  interesting 
appearance;  scape  five  or  six  flowered.  Leaves  dark 
green,  with  a  pure  ivory-white  midrib.  A  native  of 
Brazil,  introduced  in  1677. 

H.  solandriflorum  (Solandra-flowered). — This  is 
a  noble  species,  producing  from  four  to  eight  long  trum- 
pet-shaped flowers,  on  a  tall  scape ;  color  creamy  white, 
greenish  on  the  outside,  and  beautifully  shaded  with 
pink. 

H.  vittata  (Striped). — One  of  the  most  hardy  and 
remarkable  of  the  species.  Flowers  clear  white,  with 
double  red  stripes  on  each  petal.  This  is  a  fruitful 
parent  of  many  of  the  finest  varieties. 

H.  reginse  (Mexican  Lily). — Dark  red,  with  orange 
and  white ;  showy. 

Defiance. — A  remarkable  hybrid  form;  a  strong 
grower  and  continuous  bloomer,  flowering  repeatedly 
daring  the  season.  Flowers  bright  carmine,  a  vein  of 
white  running  through  each  petal ;  very  large  and  firm ; 
one  of  the  most  valuable  for  floral  decorations. 

BEUNSVIGIA. 

A  genus  of  handsome  bulbs,  formerly  classed  with 
the  Amaryllis.  The  bulbs  are  very  large,  and  need 
special  treatment  to  bring  them  into  flower.  They 
require  complete  rest  during  winter,  when  they  must 
not  be  watered,  but  during  their  period  of  growth  they 
cannot  well  have  too  much  water.  They  flower  from 
June  to  September,  according  to  the  species.  The  flow- 
ers are  large  and  showy,  but  the  bulb  is  so  large  and  the 
plants  occupy  so  much  room,  that  they  are  not  consid- 
ered worth  growing.  There  are  about  a  dozen  species, 
all  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 


BRUNSVIGIA. — CELNUM.  19 

B.  Josephineae  (Syn.  B.  gigantea). — This  is  the 
largest  and  handsomest  of  the  species,  and  the  one  most 
generally  grown ;  flowers  scarlet,  produced  in  a  many- 
flowered  umbel. 

B.  toxicaria  (Poison  Bulb).— Flowers  pink,  pro- 
duced in  a  many-flowered  umbel ;  leaves  erect  and  shin- 
ing. The  genus  is  of  so  little  consequence,  to  other 
than  the  botanist,  that  a  further  enumeration  of  the 
species  here.would  be  of  little  interest  to  the  florist. 

CBINUM. 

This  is  a  large  genus  of  Amaryllis-like  plants,  re- 
markable both  for  the  size,  number  and  beauty  of  their 
flowers,  and  for  the  enormous  size  of  the  plants.  The 
bulbs  of  the  Crinums  are  of  great  size  and  height,  the 
flowers  springing  from  the  sides  of  their  long  necks. 
The  leaves  of  some  of  the  species  are  of  gigantic  dimen- 
sions, extending  from  three  to  six  feet  in  length,  and 
averaging  from  three  to  six  inches  in  width.  The  flower 
stalks  of  some  of  the  species  are  proportionately  large, 
nearly  two  inches  in  diameter,  rising  to  the  height  of 
from  three  to  four  feet,  and  terminating  with  a  large 
umbel  of  from  fifteen  to  thirty  flowers.  The  flowers  are 
mostly  pure  white,  or  a  delicate  mixture  of  rose  or  pale 
red  and  white,  some  of  them  nearly  a  foot  in  length  and 
from  six  to  nine  inches  across.  Some  of  the  species  are 
nearly  hardy,  and  all  are  remarkably  tenacious  of  life ; 
the  bulbs  of  C.  capense  will  remain  out  of  the  earth, 
dry,  for  two  years,  without  apparent  injury.  Most  of 
the  species  are  of  tropical  origin ;  they  are,  however, 
easy  of  culture,  and  free  flowering,  the  only  objection  to 
them  being  their  size,  which  is  not  proportionate  to 
their  beauty.  They  are,  however,  in  many  respects 
especially  interesting,  and  when  the  time  comes  that 
plants  are  grown  for  what  there  is  in  them,  rather  than 
for  what  can  be  made  from  them,  in  the  way  of  profit, 


20  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

we  shall  expect  to  see  many  of  the  Crinums  pretty  gener- 
ally cultivated.  There  are  a  large  number  of  species, 
and  some  hybrid  varieties;  the  following  are  the  most 
important  for  the  garden  and" greenhouse. 

C.  amabile. — The  first  one  in  the  list  is  the  most 
important,  and  we  do  not  know  of  a  more  magnificent 
plant  than  this,  when  in  bloom ;  certainly  it  has  no 
superior  in  the  great  class  of  bulbs.  Those  who  have 
never  seen  it  in  flower  cannot  form  the  least  idea  what 
Crinums  are  like,  or  what  their  capabilities  are.  This 
fine  species  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies.  The  bulbs 
are  very  large,  being  two  feet  long,  with  a  diameter 
of  from  six  to  eight  inches  near  the  base,  tapering  to 
a  long  neck,  from  the  side  of  which  the  flower  stalk  pro- 
ceeds. This  is  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  from  two 
to  four  feet  in  height,  terminating  with  an  umbel  of 
from  twenty  to  thirty  flowers,  averaging  in  length  from 
six  to  ten  inches.  The  outside  of  the  flower  is  of  a 
bright  rose  color,  the  inside  pale  flesh.  This  will  grow 
and  flower  freely  in  the  greenhouse,  with  ordinary  care, 
if  watered  freely  when  growing,  sparingly  when  at  rest. 
It  is  evergreen. 

C.  capense. — This  species  is  generally  listed  in 
the  seedsman's  catalogues  as  Amaryllis  longifolia. 
There  are  two  varieties,  rose  colored,  and  white.  These 
flower  freely  in  the  border  in  midsummer,  and  can  be 
stored  like  Dahlias,  during  winter. 

C.  Zeylanicum. — This  noble  species  from  Ceylon 
is  more  dwarf  growing,  but  with  immense  leaves,  and 
clusters  of  superb  purple  flowers.  It  is  a  greenhouse 
species,  but  will  flower  freely  with  a  little  care.  These 
plants  are  well  worth  a  place  in  any  collection  of  plants. 
They  grow  readily  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown 
singly  in  pots  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  from  offsets,  which  are 
sparingly  produced.  This  species  has  often  been  sold  as 
(?.  ornatum,  a  synonym  of  C.  Moorei. 


NERINE. 
The  Guernsey  Lily. 

This  is  an  interesting  genus  of  greenhouse  bulbs,  but 
not  useful  in  a  commercial  sense.  They  are  but  little 
grown,  notwithstanding  their  remarkable  beauty,  because 
of  the  impression  that  they  are  difficult  subjects  to  man- 
age. This  difficulty  would  be  readily  overcome  if  the 
flowers  had  a  market  value.  The  Nerine,  to  flower  well, 
must  be  grown  in  considerable  heat  in  autumn,  and 
have  as  light  and  airy  a  situation  as  the  greenhouse 
affords,  and  must,  at  all  times,  have  a  liberal  supply  of 
water.  The  plants  must  be  treated  in  this  way  until 
nearly  spring,  gradually  withholding  water  until  May, 
when  complete  rest  should  be  given  them.  They  will 
come  into  flower  about  the  first  of  September,  previous 
to  which  time  watering  should  again  commence.  This 
method  applies  particularly  to  N.  sarniensis,  the  more 
important  of  the  species. 

N.  sarniensis, — This  species  is  a  native  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  but  has  become  naturalized  on  the 
Island  of  Guernsey,  and  is  grown  in  immense  quantities 
for  the  English  market.  There  is  no  bulb  more  easily 
managed  than  this,  when  first  imported.  If  we  could 
get  bulbs  direct,  as  soon  as  ripe,  say  about  the  first  of 
August,  and  pot  them,  they  would  immediately  come 
into  flower,  with  scarcely  a  failure,  but  we  cannot  grow 
them  later,  excepting  in  the  manner  stated.  It  would 
be  much  the  cheaper  way  to  buy  bulbs,  annually,  from 
Guernsey,  if  they  could  be  had  in  time.  There  is  but 
little  difference  in  the  shape  of  the  flowers,  which  are 
peculiar  to  themselves,  in  the  species ;  the  colors  range 
from  clear  pink  to  brilliant  scarlet. 


BULBS  AHD  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 


SPKEKELIA. 

Jacobean  Lily. 

S.  formosissima  (Amaryllis  formosissima).-^ 
There  is  but  one  species  of  this  genus  under  cultivation 
to  any  extent.  This  is  an  old  garden  favorite,  whose 
brilliant  crimson  flowers  are  seemingly,  in  the  sun,  dusted 
with  gold,  making  them  attractive  objects.  The  flowers 
are  produced  before  the  leaves.  The  bulbs  should  be 
planted  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  condition  to  work, 
and  the  flowers  will  appear  early  in  June.  Give  them 
ordinary  garden  culture,  take  up  and  store  in  the  same 
manner  as  Gladiolus,  in  a  dry,  dark  room,  where  there 
is  no  frost.  This  species  is  a  native  of  Mexico.  The 
variety,  S.  f.  longipetala,  with  lighter  colored  flowers,  is 
by  no  means  as  showy.  See  engraving  on  Page  11. 

S.  Cybister,  said  to  be  a  remarkable  species,  was 
introduced  from  Bolivia  in  1840,  but  is  now  lost. 

STERNBERGIA. 

Amaryllis  lutea  (Mount  Etna  Lily.) — A  small 
genus  of  half-hardy  ornamental  bulbs,  producing  their 
flowers  in  autumn  before  the  leaves.  They  grow  readily 
in  the  border,  but  should  have  the  protection  of  a  frame, 
in  order  that  they  can  develop  their  foliage  after  flower- 
ing, which  they  cannot  do,  north  of  Virginia,  out  of  doors. 
The  really  distinct  species  are  : 

S.  colchiciflora  (Colchicum-flowered). — Flowers 
yellowish- white  ;  blooming  in  autumn. 

S.  lutea. — This  is  a  charming  plant,  flowers  a  clear 
bright  yellow,  like  very  large  Crocuses ;  several  appear 
from  the  same  bulb  about  the  first  of  October.  If  both 
were  protected  against  frost,  they  would  make  their  leaf 
growth  in  the  spring.  Both  species  are  worth  growing, 
even  if  the  bulbs  had  to  be  renewed  annually. 


VALLOTA.  23 


VALLOTA. 

Scarborough  Lily. 

This  genus  stands  quite  alone  in  the  world ;  there  is 
but  one  species,  F.  purpurea,  and  that  utterly  refuses 
to  mix,  orchybridize,  with  others  of  the  natural  order  to 
which  it  belongs ;  it  defies  the  florist's  skill,  preferring 
to  retain  the  beautiful  form  and  color  that  was  originally 
given  it.  For  this  we  are  thankful.  While  we  recognize 
cheerfully  the  florist's  skill,  we  are  glad  that  one  flower 
is  already  perfect.  See  engraving  on  next  page. 

The  Vallota  is  a  grand  plant  for  pot  culture.  It 
thrives  under  almost  all  circumstances,  but  properly 
treated,  it  has  no  superior  among  autumn  blooming 
plants.  The  only  care  it  wants  is  to  be  let  alone,  after 
it  is  potted.  A  single  bulb  should  not  have  a  pot  larger 
than  three-inch  size,  and  should  not  be  shifted  to  a 
larger  until  the  offsets  and  roots  have  completely  used 
up  the  soil,  then  shift  into  a  pot  but  one  size  larger. 
Do  not  disturb  the  offsets  or  the  bulbs  in  any  way,  until 
a  plant  of  the  desired  size  is  wanted.  When  a  six-inch 
pot  has  been  filled,  and  a  further  shift  is  necessary,  use 
a  seed-pan,  which  will  be  plenty  deep  enough,  as  the 
tops  of  the  bulbs  should  be  level  with  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  and  they  will  be  much  easier  to  handle.  It  is  an 
evergreen  plant,  but  can  be  wintered  in  any  light  room 
free  from  frost,  with  an  occasional  slight  watering. 

We  once  grew  a  twelve-inch  pan  of  this  plant,  and 
had,  at  one  time,  forty-one  spikes,  with  from  five  to  eight 
brilliant  scarlet  blooms  on  each.  There  are  tw  ^  varieties 
in  general  cultivation ;  one  has  a  round,  the  other  a 
flattened  bulb,  the  former  giving  a  trifle  larger  flowers, 
and  a  little  white  at  the  base  of  the  petals. 


BULBS  AND   TUBEKOUS-KOOTED  PLAHTS. 


VALLOTA  PUBPUBEA. 


ZEPHYRANTHES.  25 


ZEPHYEANTHES. 

For  the  open  border  this  genus  furnishes  some  of 
the  most  useful  bulbs  in  cultivation ;  they  are  easily 
managed,  requiring  the  same  treatment  as  the  Gladiolus  ; 
they  should  be  planted  at  the  same  time,  only  rather  more 
closely.  Two  of  the  species  are  continual  bloomers. 
They  are  particularly  adapted  for  open  air  culture,  and 
are,  in  fact,  of  but  little  use,  relatively,  elsewhere. 
See  engraving,  Page  11.  There  are  a  number  of  species 
and  varieties  ;  the  truly  useful  ones  are  : 

Z.  Atamasco. — A  native  of  Virginia  and  south- 
ward, where  it  is  popularly  known  as  the  Atamasco  Lily. 
It  is  also  known  as  Amaryllis  Atamasco  ;  flowers  white, 
changing  to  light  pink,  singly  on  stems  about  one  foot 
high.  This  rarely  blooms  more  than  once  in  a  season. 

Z.  Candida  (Amaryllis  Candida). — Peruvian  Swamp 
Lily.  This  is  one  of  the  most  useful  of  the  species. 
The  bulbs  are  small,  produced  in  bunches ;  flowers  about 
two  inches  across,  pure  white,  on  stems  eight  inches  high. 
This  is  a  capital  border  plant ;  it  forms  a  solid  mass  of 
grass-like  foliage,  and  is  in  constant  bloom  from  July 
until  killed  down  by  frost.  Its  pure  white  flowers,  ris- 
ing just  above  the  bright  green  foliage,  form  a  striking 
and  pleasing  contrast.  The  bulbs  should  be  separated 
in  the  spring  and  planted  in  masses,  or  as  a  border,  two 
inches  apart  each  way.  Take  up  in  the  fall,  after  a 
heavy  frost,  and  store  the  same  as  the  Gladiolus. 

Z.  rosea  (Fairy  Lily). — This  should  be  treated  in 
precisely  the  same  manner  as  the  above,  excepting  that 
the  bulbs  should  be  planted  five  inches  apart  each  way. 
The  two  species  should  be  planted  in  rows,  side  by  side, 
or  in  masses  close  together,  in  order  to  produce  that  har- 
mony of  color,  that  white,  bright  pink  and  green  always 


26  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

affords.  The  flowers  of  this  species  are  larger  than  those 
of  the  others  named,  produced  singly  on  long  slender 
stems ;  color  a  clear,  delicate  pink  ;  a  mass,  or  a  border  of 
these  bulbs  will  furnish  flowers  the  entire  summer.  The 


ANEMONE    FULGENS. 

bulbs  are  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  increase  very  rapidly. 
Of  the  numerous  other  species  of  Zephyranthes,  but  few 
adapt  themselves  to  our  climate. 

AMMOCHARIS. 
A  synonym  of  Brunsvigia.     See  Page  18. 


ANEMONE. 


ANEMONE. 

Of  this  very  extensive  and  widely  distributed  genus, 
we  shall  mainly  notice  the  tuberous-rooted  species,  which 


TYPES   OP    ANEMONE    CORONARIA. 

are  usually  classed  with  bulbs,  as  they  are  distributed  in 
the  same  manner.     These  have  been  but  little  grown  in 


28  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

this  country,  as  our  climate  is  not  at  all  congenial  to 
them,  both  too  hot  and  too  cold,  either  extreme  being 
fatal  to  them.  Where  they  can  be  grown  successfully 
they  make  charming  plants,  producing  a  mass  of  very 
gorgeous  flowers.  They  succeed  fairly  well  here,  in  moist, 
partially  shaded  situations,  or  in  a  frame  where  the 
tubers  can  be  planted  about  the  first  of  February,  safely 
protected  against  frost,  and  where  they  can  also  be  pro- 
tected against  mid-day  sun.  In  France  they  are  usually 
planted  in  autumn,  but  in  America  a  better  plan  is  to 
plant  as  early  in  spring  as  they  can  be  put  in  the  ground. 
As  soon  as  the  tops  die  down  take  up  the  tubers  and 
store  in  a  dry  room  free  from  frost.  There  are  both 
double  and  single  forms,  and  varieties  innumerable. 
Either  can  be  produced  from  seed,  the  plants  flowering 
the  second  year;  it  is,  however,  quite  as  advisable  to 
plant  the  tubers. 

A.  coronaria  (Poppy  Anemone). — A  native  of  the 
Levant.  This  is  a  parent  of  most  of  the  popular  varie- 
ties. The  flowers  are  about  two  inches  in  diameter, 
white,  scarlet  and  purple,  with  all  the  variations  these 
colors  will  produce.  The  varieties  make  a  fine  display 
in  spring.  They  can  be  grown  in  the  greenhouse  in 
pots,  flowering  during  the  winter,  if  desired.  But  they 
seem  to  be  born  for  the  open  air,  which  is  their  appro- 
priate home  and  place.  (See  engraving,  Page  27.) 

A.  hortensis. — Varying  but  little  from  the  preced- 
ing ;  it  is  also  the  parent  of  many  varieties,  both  double 
and  single.  Many  other  so-called  species  are  but  varie- 
ties of  these. 

A.  fulgens. — This  is  one  of  the  most  showy  species 
of  the  genus.  Its  color  is  of  the  most  intense  dazzling 
scarlet  that  it  is  possible  to  conceive.  As  it  is  one 
of  the  earliest  flowers  of  the  year,  and  so  exceedingly 
beautiful  withal,  it  deserves  a  place  in  every  garden. 
(See  engraving,  Page  26.) 


ANEHONE. 


A.  japonica. — Although  not  a  bulb  or  a  tuber, 
this  plant  is  so  closely  related  to  a  prominent  class 
of  tubers,  that  it  deserves  a  notice  in  this  connection. 


ANEMONE  JAPONICA. 

This  hardy  herbaceous  species  is,  without  question,  the 
most  useful  of  any  members  of  the  genus.  It  is  an 
autumn  bloomer,  and  seldom  expands  its  flowers  before 


30  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

the  first  of  October.  The  flowers  of  the  species  are 
pinkish,  or,  rather,  purplish  red,  very  large,  but  some- 
what loose  in  appearance.  In  the  garden  they  produce 
a  fine  effect,  and  will  stand  considerable  frost  without 
injury.  Of  this  species  there  is  a  florists'  variety,  Hon- 
orine  Jolert,  which  is  unequalled  in  beauty  by  any 
autumn  flowering  plant  in  the  garden.  The  flowers  are 
large,  white,  regular  and  even,  with  a  clear  yellow  cen- 
ter ;  it  is  of  taller  growth  than  the  species,  and  for  a 
mass  in  the  flower  garden  is  unsurpassed  for  autumn 
decoration.  (See  engraving,  Page  29.) 

ANOMATHECA. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty  South  African  bulbs  belong- 
ing to  the  Iris  family,  remarkable  for  the  brilliancy  of 
their  flowers,  and  for  their  delicate  grass-like  foliage. 
The  -bulbs  should  be  planted  in  January,  and  given  a 
sunny  situation  in  the  greenhouse,  where  they  can  fully 
develop  their  bright  green  foliage  ;  if  their  growth  is  not 
checked  they  will  commence  flowering  in  May. 

A.  cruenta. — The  best  species;  its  brilliant  scarlet 
flowers  are  produced  in  succession,  on  slender  stems,  the 
entire  season.  As  a  pot  plant,  there  is  nothing  more 
showy,  but  it  is  useless  for  any  other  purpose.  It  does 
well  in  the  window  garden. 

ANTHOLYZA. 

This  genus  of  Cape  bulbs  furnishes  some  very  showy 
flowers,  bearing  a  close  resemblance  to  the  Gladiolus,  and 
belongs  to  the  same  natural  order,  Iridacece.  The  great 
defect  of  this  bulb  is  its  lack  of  adaptation,  being 
too  large  to  be  grown  profitably  in  the  greenhouse,  and 
it  is  not  sufficiently  hardy  to  be  grown  out  of  doors.  It 
may  well  be  placed  with  that  large  class  of  plants  which 
are  very  beautiful  but  not  otherwise  desirable. 


APIOS. — AHTg^MAt  31 


APioa 

Ground  Nut. 

A.  tuberosa. — The  only  species  is  a  beautiful,  free- 
flowering,  climbing  plant,  common  near  the  coast  from 
Maine  to  the  Carolinas.  It  grows,  when  given  support, 
from  six  to  eight  feet  high,  producing  axillary  clusters  of 
purplish-brown,  very  fragrant  flowers,  not  unlike  the 
Wistaria,  to  which  it  is  allied.  It  is  readily  propagated 
by  division  of  its  tubers,  which  are  freely  produced  on 
underground  stems,  and  are  edible.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy,  and  when  once  planted  it  will  take  care  of  itself. 
For  a  moist,  partially  shaded  situation,  we  do  not  know 
of  a  more  desirable  climbing  plant. 

AKISJEMA. 
Dragon  and  Arum. 

This  genus  embraces  a  great  variety  of  forms,  some 
beautiful  in  flower  and  leaf,  some  hideous  in  flower,  but 
in  plant  most  remarkable,  as  the  plant  is  but  a  strong 
stem,  spotted,  and  terminal,  with  but  few  leaves,  which 
are  sometimes  much  divided.  Our  native  species  are  very 
beautiful  in  foliage,  flower  and  fruit.  They  grow  in 
shaded  places,  in  deep,  rich  soil,  and  of  a  large  size. 

A.  Dracontium  (Common  Green  Dragon). — This 
species  is  abundant  in  damp  woods  in  many  parts  of  the 
country;  it  has  handsome  hastate  leaves  and  green 
flowers.  This  is  a  beautiful  plant  under  cultivation  ;  it 
should  be  grown  in  the  shade  with  ferns,  then  the  effect 
is  pleasing. 

A.  triphyllum  (Indian  Turnip).  It  is  quite  as 
generally  known  as  Jack-in- the-Pulpit,  and  is  well  worth 
growing,  both  for  the  flowers  and  its  fruit.  In  a  shaded, 
moist  situation,  it  grows  much  larger  than  in  the  woods. 


33  BULBS  AND  TUBEEOUS-EOOXED  PLANTS. 


AEUM  DBACUNCfULUS. 


ARUM.—  ARUM  LILT. — ASCLEPIAS.  33 

The  roots  of  this  species  are  very  acrid;  a  thin  slice 
placed  on  the  naked  skin  will  very  soon  draw  a  blister. 

AEUM. 

A.  Dracunculus  (Dragon  Plant). — Growing  from 
three  to  four  feet  high,  with  a  large  blackish -pur  pie 
flower,  appearing  before  the  foliage,  which  is  very  orna- 
mental. It  is  a  handsome  plant  for  decorative  purposes 
when  growij  in  a  pot,  after  the  flower  has  been  removed. 
They  are  very  ornamental  in  the  border,  and  will  grow 
with  little  care,  preferring  a  deep  rich  soiL  Plant,  and 
treat  as  other  spring  bulbs. 

AKUM  LILY. 

See  Richardia  cethiopica. 

ASCLEPIAS. 

The  following  species  is  the  only  one  that  is  proper 
to  include  in  our  list. 

A.  tuberosa  (Butterfly  Weed,  from  its  showy  flow- 
ers, and  Pleurisy  Boot,  because  of  its  supposed  medical 
properties). — This  is  a  hardy  herbaceous  perennial, 
thriving  in  light  sandy  or  gravelly  soil.  Its  showy 
trusses  of  bright  orange  flowers  are  produced  nearly  the 
entire  summer.  It  is  a  desirable  plant  for  the  shrub- 
bery border,  where  it  may  remain  for  an  indefinite  period, 
without  being  disturbed.  In  fact,  it  should  never  be 
disturbed,  as  it  is  impatient  of  removal,  and  cannot  well 
be  propagated  by  division.  It  grows  readily  from  seed, 
which  should  be  sown  where  it  is  wanted  to  grow.  For 
purposes  of  sale  it  is  best  grown  in  small  pots,  in  which 
tubers  will  be  formed  that  can  be  handled  without  loss. 
Propagation  can  also  be  effected  by  terminal  root-cut- 
tings. This  species  is  confined  exclusively  to  America. 

ATAMASCO  LILY. 

See  Zephyranthes.     Page  25. 
3 


34  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 


BABIANA. 

All  the  Babianas  have  handsome  flowers,  and  most 
of  them  have  hairy  leaves ;  the  colors  of  their  flower  are 
various,  the  blue  predominating,  bu!;  so  brilliant  that  a 
splendid  display  for  fully  two  months  of  the  year  may 
be  had  from  these  bulbs  alone.  They  are  all  natives  of 

the  arid  plains  near  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  where  they 
are  exposed  to  alternate  sea- 
sons of  excessive  rain  and 
excessive  drouth,  the  ground 
during  the  dry  season  being 
so  loose  and  powdery  that 
the  bulbs  often  1L  partly 
bare,  and  exposed  to  the 
heat  of  tho  suiu  All  the 
kinds  of  Babiana  are  propa- 
gated by  offsets  cr  from 
seed;  the  rapidity  wit.,  vLich 
they  may  be  multiplied  by 
offsets  makes  this  the  better 
plan  of  propagation,  partic- 
ularly as  the  varieties  fi  am 
seed  are  very  variable.  The 
only  place  for  these  bulbs  is 

BABIAHA  RTTBRO-CYANEA.   in  th«  greenhouse,  as  their 

time  tor  nowering  is  irom 

February  until  May.  A  light,  loose  soil  suits  them  best, 
and  they  require  strong  light  and  an  abundance  of  water. 
The  bulbs  should  be  planted  or  repotted  about  the  first 
of  December,  putting  from  ten  to  twelve  in  a  six-inch 
pot;  after  potting,  withhold  water  until  there  is  an 
appearance  of  growth,  when  it  should  be  applied  liber- 
ally, and  the  pots  placed  in  position  for  flowering. 


BABIANA.  35 

all  the  flowers  are  passed,  gradually  withhold  water,  in 
order  that  the  bulbs  may  ripen  off.  When  the  foliage 
bus  died  down,  place  the  pots  in  some  out-of-the-way 
place,  where  the  soil  may  remain  as  dry  as  powder  until 
time  for  repotting.  While  these  bulbs  require  the  most 
liberal  waterings  when  in  growth,  there  is  nothing  so 
fatal  to  them,  when  at  rest,  as  water. 

There  are  an  immense  number  of  species  and  varie- 
ties under  Cultivation ;  the  following  list  includes  all 
that  are  desirable. 

B.  alba  sulphurea. — Eich  delicate  sulphur  white. 

B.  atro-cyanea. — Bluish-purple,  with  white  mark- 
ings. 

B.  bicolor.— White  and  blue  in  alternate  petals, 
rich  and  striking. 

B.  disticha. — Two  ranked,  very  striking  blue. 

B.  fragrans. — Richly  perfumed. 

B.  pallida. — Pretty,  pure  clear  lilac  and  white, 
chaste  and  beautiful. 

B.  plicata. — Very  fragrant,  pale  violet,  the  lower 
segments  spotted  yellow  and  brown. 

B.  purpurea. — Violet  rose,  with  mauve  and  white 
markings. 

B.  ringens. — Rich  purple  wide-mouthed  flowers. 

B.  rosea  grandis. — Very  fine,  rosy-purple  and 
white. 

B.  rosea  major. — Magenta,  marked  white. 

B.  rubro-cyanea.  —  Rich  blue  and  red,  very 
striking. 

B.  speciosa. — Rich  mauve  and  purple. 

B.  stricta. — Beautiful  porcelain  blue. 

B.  stricta  purpurea. — Rosy  purple  and  mauve. 

B.  Thunbergii. — Many-spiked,  purple. 

B.  tubiflora. — Rich  yellow  and  red. 

B.  tubiflora  tubata. — Long-tubed,  yellow  and 
white. 

B.  villosa. — Dark  magenta  crimson. 


36  BULBS  AND   TUBEBOtTS-SOOTED 

In  addition  to  this  dozen  and  a  half  of  the  more 
showy  species  of  Babiana,  the  following  florists'  varieties 
are  well  worthy  of  cultivation  : 

Attraction. — Eich  Syrian  purple,  tinged  with 
white. 

Celi a. — Rich  rose,  marked  with  white. 

General  Scott.— Rich  magenta,  suffused  with 
white. 

General  Slade. — Charming  magenta. 

Lady  Carey. — Mauve  and  white. 

BABY'S  BREATH. 
The  popular  name  of  Muscari  botryoides. 

BARBADOES  LILY. 
Synonym  of  Hippeastrum  equestre.     See  Page  13. 

BARNARDIA. 

Chinese  Squill. 

This  is  an  exceedingly  rare  genus,  which  fact  shows 
that  it  is  of  but  little  importance  in  the  floral  world. 
It  was  introduced  into  Europe  by  Thunberg,  from 
China,  in  1824.  There  are  but  two  species,  B.  scilloides 
and  B.  japonicum,  the  former  with  pink,  the  latter  with 
purple  flowers ;  both  delicate  and  graceful.  The  leaves 
are  broad  and  long,  resembling  those  of  the  Ornithogalum  > 
in  fact,  the  latter  was  called  B.  japonicum  by  Thunberg. 
They  require  the  same  treatment  as  the  tender  varieties 
of  Scilla. 

BEGONIA. 

Tuberous-Rooted  Begonia. 

But  few  plants  have  been  so  rapidly  improved  bj 
the  florist's  kindly  aid,  as  the  Tuberous  Begonias,  since 
the  introduction  of  the  species  from  South  America  j 
and  but  few  are  more  deservedly  popular,  either  for  the 


BEGONIA.  37 

greenhouse  or  for  garden  decoration.  Upon  their  intro- 
duction into  this  country  they  were  not  supposed,  by 
our  florists,  to  be  able  to  withstand  our  rare  atmosphere, 
drying  winds  and  burning  suns.  The  few  that  thought 
differently  persevered  in  their  cultivation  unti?  they  es- 
tablished the  fact  that  they  would  not  only  endure  our 
climatic  conditions,  but  that  they  were  just  what  these 
plants  required  for  their  full  development.  The  idea 
that  a  low  temperature  and  moist  atmosphere  were  nec- 
essary to  the  successful  cultivation  of  the  Tuberous  Be- 
gonias, was  abandoned  during  the  season  of  1892,  which 
was  one  of  the  driest  and  hottest  known  for  many  years. 
In  the  nursery  row — the  proper  place  to  judge  of  a 
plant's  usefulness — it  appeared  during  that  year  to  the 
best  possible  advantage.  It  showed,  also,  just  what  must 
be  done  to  insure  success,  and  that  it  can  withstand  ex- 
treme heat  and  excessive  drouth  as  well  as  almost  any 
other  bedding  plant.  The  principal  point  learned  in  re- 
gard to  its  culture  is,  that  it  must  be  treated  as  a  plant 
and  not  as  a  bulb.  The  enthusiastic  florist,  seeing  the 
many  good  qualities  of  the  plant,  has  led  amateurs  to 
believe  it  could  be  treated  as  a  bulb,  and  planted  out  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  Gladiolus  or  Tigridia,  and 
kept  dormant  during  the  winter  in  the  same  manner. 
This  is  a  great  mistake,  as  the  tubers  will  not  endure  as 
long  a  period  of  rest,  and  cannot  be  exposed  to  the  air 
for  a  long  time  without  seriously  injuring  their  vitality. 
The  tubers  must  be  kept  in  dry  earth  or  sand,  until  they 
show  signs  of  growth,  which  will  not  be  later  than  the 
first  of  March,  then  they  may  be  started  into  rapid 
growth.  After  the  eyes  are  fully  developed  the  tubers 
may  be  divided;  each  eye  will  make  a  plant.  Then 
they  are  to  be  treated  in  all  respects  like  greenhouse 
plants,  and  grown  on  until  the  proper  season  for  their 
planting  out.  This  is  not  before  the  first  of  June,  as 
Begonias  are  quite  sensitive  to  cold  nights,  but  not  at 


38  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAHIS. 


SINGLE  AND   DOUBLE   TUBEROUS  BEGONIAS. 


BEGONIA.  39 

all  to  heat.  At  that  time  the  plants  should  be  fully  six 
inches  in  height,  and  proportionately  strong.  Such 
plants  will  make  a  grand  display  the  entire  season,  rather 
delighting  in  great  heat.  This  was  plainly  shown  the 
past  season  on  Mr.  Griffin's  grounds  on  Long  Island, 
where  the  strong  plants,  which  were  first  set,  grew  vig- 
orously, while  the  younger  stock  from  seed  sown  too 
late,  failed  to  grow  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  Those 
intending  to  grow  Tuberous  Begonias  from  seed,  should 
sow  early  ^ln  January.  The  amateur  can  start  the 
tubers  in  the  ordinary  window,  and  grow  them  on  until 
time  to  plant  out,  but  to  grow  from  seed  will  require 
the  use  of  a  greenhouse. 

Propagation  is  effected  rapidly  and  easily  from  seed, 
which  is  produced  freely ;  a  single  capsule  is  said  to  con- 
tain more  than  one  thousand  seeds,  which,  with  proper 
care,  will  produce  nearly  as  many  plants.  The  seeds  of 
the  Tuberous  Begonia  are  so  excessively  fine  as  to  resem- 
ble tobacco  dust  more  than  covers  containing  the  germ 
of  a  future  plant.  And  it  is  well  to  remark,  in  this 
place,  that  the  seed  produced  in  our  greenhouses  or  in 
the  open  ground,  is  much  better,  both  as  regards  size 
and  plumpness,  than  any  we  have  been  able  to  get  from 
England,  the  supposed  paradise  of  the  Tuberous  Begonia, 
and  the  germinating  properties  are  much  greater. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  greenhouse  in  Jan- 
uary, in  pans  filled  with  very  light  soil.  A  mixture  of 
powdered  sphagnum,  sand,  and  the  finest  manure  possi- 
ble, thoroughly  mixed,  is  the  most  suitable.  This 
should  be  pressed  firmly  down,  and  the  seed  scattered 
thinly  over  the  surface.  Then  wet  thoroughly  with 
a  fine  rose,  and  cover  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  with  the  same  mixture  of  soil,  or  with  ground 
sphagnum  alone ;  cover  each  pan  with  a  pane  of  glass, 
to  prevent  evaporation,  and  give  them  an  even  tempera- 
ture of  about  70°.  This  degree  of  heat  is  quite  suffi- 


40  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

cient,  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  drop  below  65°.  A 
higher  temperature  will  cause  the  plants  to  grow  spin- 
dling and  weak. 

After  the  seeds  have  germinated  it  is  important  to 
keep  the  soil  evenly  moist ;  if  it  is  allowed  to  become 
dry  beneath  the  surface  the  plants  will  rapidly  damp  off. 
It  is  the  better  plan  to  place  the  pots,  or  pans,  in  which 
the  seeds  are  sown,  in  larger  pans  of  water  up  to  an  inch 
below  the  level  of  the  soil,  for  a  few  minutes,  which 
will  afford  the  necessary  moisture  at  the  roots  of  the 
young  plants,  and  leave  the  tops  dry,  which  will,  in  a 
great  measure,  prevent  the  plants  from  damping  off. 
It  is  an  injury  to  all  the  Begonias  to  wet  the  leaves. 

"When  the  plants  have  made  their  first  pair  of  leaves, 
they  should  be  pricked  out  into  shallow  boxes,  or  potted 
singly,  in  a  soil  a  little  heavier  than  that  in  which  the 
seed  was  sown.  Then  grow  on  in  about  the  same  tem- 
perature, shading  at  first  from  the  midday  sun,  but 
always  giving  them  an  abundance  of  light  and  air.  Shift 
into  larger  pots  when  the  ones  in  which  they  are  grow- 
ing are  filled  with  roots.  In  this  way  plants  from  four 
to  six  inches  in  height  can  be  had  to  plant  out  into  the 
border  by  June  1st,  which  is  sufficiently  early,  as  they 
do  not  like  cool  nights.  When  a  really  fine  plant  is 
secured,  it  can  be  increased  slowly  by  cuttings  or  by 
division,  when  the  young  shoots  start  in  spring.  The 
specialists  in  this  plant  keep  all  their  extra  fine  and  free 
flowering  plants  for  seed  purposes,  or  for  show  plants, 
and  do  not  divide  the  tubers  for  several  years.  But  the 
main  supply  for  garden  decoration  is  kept  up  by  young 
tubers  grown  from  seed.  Tuberous  Begonias  flower  freely 
the  first  year  from  seed,  but  for  brilliant  effects  older 
plants  are  to  be  preferred. 

After  flowering,  the  plants  will  naturally  show  a 
disposition  to  rest ;  they  should  then  be  gradually  dried 
off,  and  the  tubers  kept  in  dry  sand  until  about  the  first 


BEGONIA.  41 

of  April,  when  they  may  be  repotted  in  a  rich  soil.  Use 
pots  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  the  tuher  without 
crowding  the  roots.  If  wanted  for  show  plants,  the 
pots  must  be  quite  large.  For  a  vigorous  two-year-old 
plant  a  ten  inch  pot  will  be  necessary.  If  the  plants 
are  to  be  transferred  to  the  border,  a  six-inch  pot  will 
be  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  them  until  they  are 
planted  out.  For  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory,  the 
tubers  should  be  started  as  soon  as  they  show  signs  of 
growth,  which  will  be  early  in  February. 

Like  all  other  florists'  flowers,  the  varieties  of  the 
Tuberous  Begonias  have  been,  by  crossing  and  recross- 
ing,  increased  to  a  wonderful  extent,  so  that  the  named 
varieties  first  noticed  have  been  lost  sight  of.  The  fol- 
lowing species  are  parents  of  the  now  popular  sorts,  or 
classes,  both  of  the  double  and  single  varieties. 

B.  boliviensis.— Introduced  by  Messrs.  Veitch  & 
Son,  London,  in  1864.  It  has  small  drooping  flowers, 
of  a  bright  cinnabar-scarlet  color. 

B.  Pearcei — So  called  in  honor  of  Mr.  Pearce, 
the  collector  for  Messrs.  Veitch  &  Son;  flowers  about 
one  inch  to  one  and  one-quarter  inches  across,  clear 
yellow  ;  foliage  beautifully  marbled. 

B.  Veitchii — This  was  found  in  Peru  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  12,500  feet,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
the  species.  Its  flowers  are  of  an  immense  size,  of  an 
inimitable,  vivid  vermillion-cinnabar  red. 

B.  rosseflora. — A  species  of  but  little  value,  with 
flowers  of  a  pale  red  color. 

B.  Davisii.  —A  very  dwarf-growing  species,  with 
scarlet  flowers,  and  smooth  glossy  foliage.  This  has 
proved  of  great  value  to  the  hybridists,  who  have,  by 
judicious  crossing  of  this  species  with  other  strains 
derived  from  the  Boliviensis  and  Yeitchii  types,  pro- 
duced a  vast  number  of  varieties,  both  single  and  double 
flowered,  possessing  the  characteristics  of  a  remarkably 


42  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

dwarf   and    compact    habit,   with    moderate-sized    hut 
brightly-colored  flowers. 

B.  Frcebelii. — A  tuberous-rooted  species,  intro- 
duced in  1872  from  Ecuador;  is  of  a  remarkably  dwarf 
habit,  with  small  but  very  bright  scarlet  or  light  crimson 
colored  and  very  showy  flowers.  This  species  does  not 
ally  itself  with  any  other,  therefore  cannot  be  used  in 
hybridization.  It  seeds  itself  very  freely  when  fertilized 
by  its  own  pollen,  and  the  seedlings  are  mostly  true  to 
the  type,  varying  somewhat  in  size  and  color. 

BELLADONNA  LILY. 

Synonym  of  Amaryllis  Belladonna.     See  Page  10. 

BELLEVALIA. 

The  Roman   Squill. 

This  genus  contains  but  one  species,  B.  romana, 
a  native  of  Italy.  This  is  a  very  pretty  plant,  closely 
resembling  the  Hyacinth ;  flowers  small,  whitish,  or 
violet,  tinged  with  green.  They  are  of  extremely  easy 
culture,  perfectly  hardy,  and  propagated  freely  by  offsets, 
or  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown  ~z  aoon  as  ripe.  There 
is  no  particular  need  of  this  in  the  garden,  its  place  being 
already  filled  by  the  Hyacinth  and  the  Scilla,  which, 
being  well  known,-  are  more  easily  obtained,  and  are,  in 
every  respect,  quite  as  desirable. 

TVESSERA. 

This  beautiful  bulb  was  first  introduced  into  Eng- 
land in  1837,  but  for  many  years  its  cultivation  was  not 
attended  with  much,  if  any,  success.  It  has  recently 
been  again  introduced  into  this  country  from  Mexico,  its 
native  habitat,  and  has  been  extensively  sent  out  among 
other  novelties.  A  more  satisfactory  little  plant  cannot 
well  be  found.  When  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Gladiolus,  it  will  flower  the  entire  summer,  and  even  after 


BESSERA. 


43 


MTLtA — BESSERA — CALOCHORTC78. 


44  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

two  or  three  degrees  of  frost  it  will  continue  to  furnish  its 
heads  of  graceful,  drooping  flowers,  bright  scarlet,  with 
creamy- white  stripes  through  each  petal.  The  bulb  is 
about  the  size  of  a  crocus  corm,  and  is  readily  produced 
by  serJs,  or  slowly  by  offsets.  The  bulbs  should  be  kept 
warm  and  dry  through  the  winter.  The  Bessera  requires 
the  same  conditions  of  cultivation,  and  the  same  care 
when  at  rest  as  the  Tigridia.  The  flower  stems  are  from 
twelve  to  twenty  inches  in  height,  producing  an  umbel 
of  from  twelve  to  thirty  flowers,  very  useful  in  all  natural 
arrangements  of  loose  flowers  ;  they  are  especially  fitted, 
by  contrast,  to  go  with  the  Milla  biftora,  with  its  unique 
pure  white  flowers  and  graceful  habit.  The  upper  flow- 
ers in  the  engraving  (Page  43)  are  those  of  the  Bessera. 

BLANDFORDIA. 

A  genus  of  very  beautiful  Australian  bulbs  that 
have  long  been  known,  and  but  little  cultivated.  They 
are  exclusively  greenhouse,  evergreen  bulbs,  and  require 
some  degree  of  attention  at  all  times,  for  which  cause 
they  are  but  little  grown,  excepting  in  large  collections, 
and  where  plants  are  not  grown  for  their  commercial 
value.  Although  the  plant  belongs  to  the  LiliacecB,  its 
habit  of  growth  and  general  appearance  more  closely 
resembles  Amaryllidacece.  It  is  a  tuberous-rooted  plant, 
in  consequence  of  which,  its  habit  is  entirely  dissimilar 
from  that  of  bulbs.  Its  flowers  are  of  gorgeous  colors, 
produced  on  short,  strong  stems,  in  regular  umbels. 
The  plant  requires  regular  greenhouse  treatment,  and  to 
be  watered  sparingly  when  not  in  active  growth.  Prop- 
agation is  readily  effected  by  offsets.  There  are  several 
species,  all  of  the  same  general  character. 

B.  Cunninghamii,  with  coppery  red  flowers,  and 
B.  grandiflora,   with  orange  and  yellow  flowers, 
fully  represent  the  species. 

BLOOD  FLOWER. 

See  Hssmanthus. 


BBAVOA— BRODLZEA — BULBOCODIUM.  45 

BLOOD-ROOT. 

See  Sanguinaria. 

BRAVOA. 

This  genus  contains  but  a  solitary  species,  B.  gem- 
iniflora,  a  very  beautiful  and  graceful  little  pseudo- 
bulb,  a  native  of  Mexico.  It  is  half  hardy,  flowering 
freely  in  the  borders,  but  requiring  protection  during 
winter.  The*  numerous  flowers  are  bright  red,  or  crim- 
son, borne  on  slender  stalks  about  one  foot  high,  in 
clusters.  The  leaves  are  narrow,  produced  in  a  tuft, 
from  the  center  of  which  the  flower-stalk  arises.  It  is 
rarely  seen  in  cultivation,  although  well  deserving  it. 
The  plant  is  propagated  by  division. 

BRODLEA. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty  half-hardy  bulbs,  with  small, 
tubular  flowers,  mostly  blue,  borne  in  large  clusters  or 
umbels.  The  leaves  are  rush-like,  from  two  to  four  in 
number;  the  flower  stem  proceeds  from  the  root,  usually 
straight,  slender  but  strong.  The  species  are  of  easy 
culture,  either  in  pots  or  in  the  border.  Increased 
freely  by  offsets,  which  should  be  left  undisturbed  with 
the  parent  bulbs  till  they  reach  a  flowering  state,  when 
there  will  be  a  natural  division,  then  separate  and 
replant  in  autumn. 

BRUNSVIGIA. 
See  Page  18. 

BULBOCODIUM. 

These  are  very  pretty  bulbous  plants,  somewhat 
resembling  the  crocus.  There  are,  in  the  genus,  two 
distinct  classes,  one  flowering  in  the  spring,  the  other 
in  autumn. 

B.  vernum. — Among  the  earliest  of  spring-flower- 
ing plants,  the  flowers  preceding  the  foliage ;  and,  like 


46  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

the  majority  of  bulbs,  it  delights  in  a  rich  sandy  loam. 
In  such  positions  it  flowers  freely  and  increases  rapidly 
by  division.  When  in  favorable  positions  the  bulbs  will 
increase  so  rapidly  that  they  should  be  separated  and 
replanted  every  second  or  third  year.  The  flowers  are 
crocus-like,  of  a  purple-violet  color,  with  white  spots, 
usually  two  or  three  from  a  bulb.  There  is  a  desirable 
variety,  with  purple  flowers  striped  with  white. 

B.  versicolor. — Flowers  in  August,  but  is  rarely 
seen.  In  general  character  and  habit  it  resembles  the 
spring-flowering  species,  which  is  the  more  highly 
esteemed  because  it  is  a  spring  flower.  None  of  the 
crocus  tribe  would  be  extensively  cultivated  but  for  the 
fact  of  their  being  about  the  first  to  welcome  spring. 

BUTTEKFLY  WEED. 

See  Asclepias  tuber osa,  Page  33. 
CALADIUM. 

The  Caladium  has  but  few  rivals  in  the  list  of  orna- 
mental leaved  plants,  if  taken  at  the  height  of  its  beauty, 
which  is  in  midsummer.  In  point  of  general  usefulness 
it  does  not  rank  very  high,  as  it  is  only  adapted  for  the 
greenhouse.  The  delicate  texture  of  its  leaves  will  not 
permit  of  other  than  the  most  careful  handling,  and 
they  must  have  the  humid  atmosphere  which  the  green- 
house alone  affords.  High  temperature,  great  moisture, 
without  direct  sunshine,  and  protection  from  cold  drafts, 
are  the  conditions  favorable  to  its  perfect  development. 
The  genus  is  found  in  the  tropical  swamps  of  Brazil, 
growing  in  soil  as  rich  as  decayed  vegetation,  aided  by 
tropical  suns,  can  make  it.  While  the  roots  cannot 
have  too  much  moisture,  nothing  is  more  fatal  to  the 
foliage  than  water.  Like  most  tropical  plants,  it  desires 
alternate  seasons,  or  periods,  of  active  growth  and  abso- 
lute rest.  The  Caladium  is  not  a  difficult  subject  to 
grow  to  perfection,  when  liberally  treated.  But  it  will 


CALADIUM.  47 

not  tolerate  neglect  in  any  form.  Its  mission  is  to  grow 
beautiful,  and  grow  it  will  if  it  is  surrounded  with  con- 
ditions favorable  to  its  development.  When  it  starts,  it 
is  for  the  greatest  possible  size  of  leaf,  and  the  most 
beautiful  and  positive  markings.  These  will  be  secured 
if  the  plant  is  in  no  way  restricted  ;  it  must  not  receive 
a  check,  either  from  want  of  heat,  moisture,  or  from 


FANCY-LEAVED   CALADITJM. 


cold  drafts ;  and  while  the  atmosphere  in  which  it  grows 
should  always  be  moist,  water  should  always  be  given  at 
the  root,  and  never  on  the  leaf.  If  the  plant  receives  a 
check,  it  will  never  after  make  a  satisfactory  growth. 


48  BULBS    AND     TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

Fine  specimen  plants  can  "be  obtained  by  potting  a 
number  of  small  tubers  in  a  large  pot,  in  case  a  large 
tuber  of  a  desired  kind  is  not  at  hand,  but  it  is  better  to 
pot  a  single  tuber.  In  potting,  soil  is  of  less  importance 
than  method.  The  finest  specimens  we  have  ever  seen 
on  exhibition  were  potted  in  soil  taken  from  the  rubbish 
heap,  which  was  a  mixture  of  everything  from  the 
greenhouse.  Good  drainage  is  of  the  first  importance. 
The  tubers  must  commence  their  growth  before  potting, 
if  success  is  to  be  attained.  This  will  be  about  the  first 
of  March;  then  they  should  be  potted  and  placed  in 
position  for  active  growth.  For  purposes  of  sale,  the 
large  tubers,  after  getting  well  started,  may  be  cut  into 
pieces,  a  single  sprout  to  each;  these  should  be  put  in 
three-inch  pots,  shifting  into  a  large  size  if  the  growth 
demands  it.  If  the  plants  can  have  a  slight  bottom 
heat,  growth  will  be  accelerated.  Water  should  be 
applied  sparingly  at  first,  but  when  the  pots  are  filled 
with  roots,  too  much  cannot  be  given  them.  Liquid 
manure  should  be  given  at  least  twice  a  week.  As 
growth  advances,  temperature  and  humidity  should 
likewise  increase.  Shade  the  leaves  from  the  midday 
sun,  otherwise  give  them  all  the  light  possible.  After 
the  plants  have  perfected  their  growth,  and  the  leaves 
begin  to  wither,  gradually  withhold  water,  but  keep  up 
the  temperature  until  the  tuber  and  soil  are  thoroughly 
dry ;  then  place  the  pots  in  a  dry,  warm  place,  until  the 
following  spring,  when  the  operation  is  to  be  repeated. 

The  varieties  of  the  Caladium  are  almost  innumer- 
able, the  result  of  growing  from  cross-fertilized  seed. 
Growing  the  Caladium  from  seed  is  a  simple  matter. 
Sow  the  seed  in  pans  or  boxes,  soon  as  ripe;  prick  out 
into  thumb-pots  when  an  inch  high,  and  grow  on  in  the 
manner  as  is  recommended  for  the  tubers.  Give  them  a 
rest  when  they  show,  by  the  drooping  of  the  leaves,  that 
they  require  it.  For  Caladium  esculentum  see  Colocasia. 


CALIPHEUBIA— CALLIPROEA— CALLA  49 

CALIPHRURIA. 

The  two  species  that  go  to  make  up  this  genus,  (7. 
Hartwegiana  and  C.  suledentata,  were  formerly  included 
in  the  genus  Eucharis.  They  are  of  the  same  general 
character,  and  requir?,  in  all  respects,  the  same  treatment. 
The  flowers  are  greenish-white,  petals  reflexed,  and  the 
tube  much  deeper  than  that  of  the  Eucharis. 

CALLA. 

See  Richardia. 

CALLIPROEA. 
A  synonym  of  Brodiaea,  Page  45. 

CALOCHORTUS. 

Mariposa  Lily. 

This  very  interesting  genus  of  bulbs  was  discovered 
in  California,  in  1826.  The  flowers  somewhat  resemble 
the  Tulip  in  shape,  and  are  popularly  called,  in  some 
places,  California  Tulips.  The  colors  of  the  flowers  are 
various,  white,  purple  and  yellow,  with  superb  rich 
markings.  They  are  free-flowering  bulbs,  when  grown 
in  a  moderately  light  soil,  not  very  wet.  They  are  best 
grown  when  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  most  summer 
flowering  bulbs,  being  planted  in  the  open  border,  when 
the  soil  is  in  good  condition  for  working.  They  look 
best  in  masses,  or  clumps,  with  their  colors  mixed;  in 
this  way  there  is  a  constant  change  in  the  appearance  of 
the  bed,  always  some  new  feature,  and  during  the  sum- 
mer, from  July  until  September,  a  rare  display.  The 
bulbs  should  be  kept  warm  and  dry  during  the  winter, 
covered  with  dry  moss  or  sand.  They  are  rapidly 
increased  by  offsets,  or  from  seed.  The  latter  method  is 
rather  slow,  as  they  do  not  flower  until  the  third  year. 
If  well  protected  against  frost  and  water,  the  bulbs  are 
best  left  in  the  ground  during  winter. 
4 


50  BULBS  AND   TUBEKOUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

There  are  many  so-called  species,  but  what  tne 
specific  differences  are  is  rather  hard  to  define.  Varie- 
ties would  seem  the  more  correct  term  to  use.  Of  these, 
the  following  are  the  most  desirable. 

C.  albus  (Cyclobothra  alba). — This  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  this  genus ;  snow  white,  with  a  rich 
blotch. 

C.  pulchellus  (Cyclobothra). — Flowers  drooping, 
globose,  colored  yellow  with  greenish  purple  markings. 
See  the  lower  flowers  in  engraving  on  Page  43. 

C.  purpureus  (Cyclobothra). — A  very  pretty  spe- 
cies with  purple  flowers. 

C.  luteus. — Eich  yellow,  with  crimson  patch  and 
a  blotch  of  greenish  sulphur  at  the  base  of  each  petal. 

C.  Benthami. — Yellow,  with  numbers  of  brown 
spots  at  the  base. 

C.  macrocarpus. — Deep  purple  lilac;  peculiar 
and  rich. 

C.  Greenii. — Fine  large  lilac,  splashed  and  cov- 
ered with  orange  ;  rich  and  striking. 

C.  splendens. — Blue  and  white;  large  and  showy. 

C.  magenteus. — "White,  marked  with  rosy  red. 

C.  venustus. — This  is  often  called  the  California 
tulip ;  handsome  white  flowers,  with  a  yellow  base 
stained  with  crimson. 

C.  Nuttallii.— White,  blotched  with  purple.  Syn. 
with  C.  Leichtlinii. 

CALOSCOKDUM. 

A  very  pretty  bulb  from  Chusan,  producing  its 
umbels  of  rose-colored  flowers,  in  the  manner  of  the 
Nerine.  It  requires  the  same  treatment  as  the  Calo- 
chortus. 

CALOSTEMMA. 

A  small  genus  of  handsome  greenhouse  bulbs  from 
New  Holland.  The  flowers  are  funnel-shaped,  yellow, 


CAMASSIA. 


51 


CAMASSIA   ESCULEflTA, 


52  BULBS  AHD   TUBEROUS-HOOTED  PLAHTS. 

purple  or  white.  For  general  cultivation  they  are  worth- 
less, the  beauty  of  the  flowers  not  being  worth  the  care 
and  attention  it  costs  to  produce  them. 

CAMASSIA. 

A  small  genus  of  hardy  bulbs  common  in  some  of 
the  Western  States,  and  closely  allied  to  Scilla,  or  Squill. 
They  are  entirely  hardy,  and  can  be  rapidly  increased  by 
division,  or  from  seed. 

C.  esculenta. — The  more  common  species  some- 
what resembles  the  common  blue  hyacinth,  but  is  much 
larger.  The  leaves  are  about  a  foot  long,  very  narrow, 
and  grooved  through  the  center.  The  flower-stalks 
grow  from  one  to  two  feet  high,  and  bear  large,  showy 
purple  flowers.  The  roots  of  this  species  were  largely 
employed  as  food  by  the  Indians,  the  various  tribes  visit- 
ing the  plains  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  them,  imme- 
diately after  the  plant  had  flowered.  The  Indian  name 
for  the  species  is  Q.uamash.  It  is  well  worth  cultivating. 
The  only  Eastern  species  is  C.  Fraseri,  or  "Wild  Hyacinth, 
which  is  not  cultivated. 

CANNA. 

Indian  Shot. 

Although  the  Canna  is  not  a  bulb,  it  is  always  asso- 
ciated with  bulbs.  It  would  seem  out  of  place  anywhere 
else,  and  a  list  of  bulbs  would  appear  incomplete  without 
it,  as  would  any  collection  of  ornamental  plants.  But 
few  plants  are  better  known  than  the  Cannas,  and  few 
less  appreciated.  Because  of  the  free-growing  habit, 
thriving  under  almost  any  circumstances,  they  are  gen- 
erally grown  without  care  and  in  a  manner  that  does  not, 
in  any  degree,  develop  their  beauty  or  usefulness.  To 
have  Cannas  in  perfection,  the  soil  must  be  worked  deep 
and  made  very  rich.  They  are  gross  feeders,  and  enjoy 
moisture  in  proportion.  Although  a  swamp  plant,  it 


CANHA.  53 

will  thrive  most  luxuriantly  in  dry  soil,  if  made  rich. 
For  large  groups  on  the  lawn,  for  planting  against  fences 
or  unsightly  places  it  has  no  equal  in  the  list  of  orna- 
mental plants.  One  of  its  great  attractions  is  that  it 
will  grow  anywhere,  and  always  ornament  its  surround- 
ings. The  tubers  should  be  planted  singly,  about  one 
and  a  half  feet  apart,  as  soon  as  general  gardening  opera- 
tions commence.  Whether  in  clumps  or  in  rows,  the 
plants  will q.. completely  cover  the  ground,  forming  an 
impenetrable  screen  when  planted  at  that  distance  apart. 
After  the  frost  has  destroyed  the  beauty  of  the  foliage, 
the  roots  should  be  taken  up  and  kept  during  winter  in 
a  dry  warm  room  or  cellar. 

The  varieties  are  readily  produced  from  seed,  which 
is  best  planted  singly  in  small  pots,  although  they  seed 
themselves  freely,  and  come  up  like  weeds  where  once 
grown.  This,  however,  does  not  apply  to  the  large 
flowering  species,  which  do  not  seed  freely  unless 
artificially  fertilized.  The  species  are  all  tropical  or  sub- 
tropical plants,  being  found  abundantly  in  the  East  and 
"West  Indies,  Central  and  South  America.  One  species, 
C.  flaccida,  is  common  in  some  of  our  Southern  States. 
Botanically  they  are  allied  to  Maranta,  Calathea,  and  to 
the  Ginger  family.  One  of  the  species,  (7.  edulis,  is 
extensively  grown  in  Peru  and  the  Sandwich  Islands  as 
a  vegetable  ;  it  also  yields  a  large  quantity  of  arrowroot. 

Many  of  the  species  have  long  been  cultivated  for 
their  beautiful  flowers  and  foliage.  Parkinson,  that 
admirable  gardener,  described  the  method  of  growing 
them,  in  a  manner  peculiarly  his  own,  in  his  "Flower 
Garden,"  published  in  1629.  There  is  also  an  excellent 
copperplate  illustration  of  C.  indica,  in  "  Florilegium 
Renovatum,"  published  in  1612,  showing  that  the  plant 
was  highly  appreciated  in  that  early  day.  But  few  of 
the  species  are  in  general  cultivation,  the  labors  of  the 
hybridist  having  given  us  new  forms,  desirable  because 


54  BULBS  AND  TUBEKOUS  -ROOTED  PLAHTS. 

of  their  dwarf  habit  and  ever-blooming  qualities.  To 
the  French  gardeners  we  are  indebted  for  a  new  and  dis- 
tinct class  of  dwarf  plants,  which  are  giving  a  decided 
impetus  to  Canna  culture.  Their  dwarf  habit,  hand- 
some flowers,  and  the  freedom  with  which  they  are  pro- 
duced, are  making  them  great  favorites  for  the  conserva- 
tory or  greenhouse  culture.  In  color  the  flowers  are 
rich*  crimson  and  bright  yellow,  with  all  the  variations 
that  these  colors  can  produce.  This  class  is  popularly 
known  as  Crozy9  s  Dwarf  Cannas.  How  much  credit  is 
due  Mon.  Crozy  for  originating  this  popular  class  is  a 
question,  as  we  find  in  Loddiges'  Botanical  Cabinet, 
1820,  a  colored  engraving  of  an  almost  perfect  flower  of 
the  variety  known  as  Mad.  Crozy,  and  is  there  classed 
with  the  species  as  C.  Aura-Vittata.  He  is,  however, 
entitled  due  credit  for  introducing  so  valuable  a  class  of 
plants.  American  florists  have  taken  up  the  work  of 
cross-fertilization,  and  have  already  raised  from  seed 
some  of  the  most  showy,  as  well  as  the  most  dwarf,  of 
any  yet  sent  out. 

Star  of  1891  is  an  American  variety  worthy  of 
special  notice.  The  whole  height  of  the  plant  does  not 
exceed  eighteen  inches.  The  flowers  are  bright  orange- 
crimson,  and  so  closely  arranged  in  the  spike  that  it  is 
more  the  form  of  the  Tritoma  than  the  Canna.  The 
parentage  of  these  dwarf  forms  is  undoubtedly  the  species 
found  in  Peru,  prominent  among  them  being  C.  Aura- 
vittata,  as  described  by  Loddiges,  and  that  for  garden 
decoration  they  have  no  superiors.  Of  the  species  and 
varieties,  a  few  of  the  more  valuable  for  general  cultiva- 
tion are : 

C.  iridiflora  (Iris-Flowered  Canna).— One  of  the 
most  showy  of  the  species,  growing  from  six  to  nine  feet 
high,  with  long,  broad,  rich  bright  green  foliage.  A 
native  of  Peru.  To  flower  freely  it  should  have  a  good 
sunny  situation,  and  a  rich  soil.  The  importance  of 


55 


STAR  OF   1891. 


56  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

this  species  is  its  supposed  parentage  to  0.  Ehemanni  and 
others  of  the  large-flowering  class. 

C.  Ehemanni. — This  is  a  desirable  plant,  and  one 
of  the  best  of  the  tall-growing  kinds.  Its  foliage  is 
heavy  and  rich.  The  plant  grows  from  five  to  seven 
feet  high,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  large  rosy-pink  flow- 
ers, which  are  produced  in  abundance  the  entire  summer. 
The  roots  should  be  kept  in  a  partial  growing  state  the 
entire  season.  If  allowed  to  dry  out  in  winter,  they  lose 
vitality,  and  if  kept  moist  and  rather  cool,  they  will  rot. 
If  potted  and  grown  in  the  greenhouse  they  will  flower 
during  the  winter,  and  will  be  dwarf  in  habit. 

C.  Noutoni. — This  is,  in  all  respects,  similar  to 
the  above,  excepting  in  the  color  of  its  flowers,  and 
requires  the  same  general  treatment.  Its  flowers  are 
cardinal-colored,  very  large,  and  freely  produced.  The 
plant  presents  a  mass  of  bloom  the  entire  summer. 

C.  robusta. — For  the  sub-tropical  garden,  this  is 
the  most  desirable  of  all  Cannas.  It  rarely  flowers,  but 
will  grow  from  nine  to  twelve  feet  high,  producing  its 
gigantic  leaves,  of  a  reddish-brown  color,  most  luxuri- 
antly. These  leaves  may  be  seen  four  feet  in  length  and 
one  and  one-half  feet  in  width.  It  should  always  be 
found  in  the  center  of  the  group,  with.  Noutoni  next, 
outside  of  which  should  come  the  dwarf  varieties.  These 
form  a  bed  perfect  in  outline,  and  one  of  the  most  showy 
and  attractive  that  it  is  possible  for  plants  to  produce. 

C.  mussefolia  (Banana-like).  Is  a  suitable  compan- 
ion to  the  last ;  habit  very  similar,  differing  in  the  foli- 
age, which  is  bright  green. 

Premices  de  Nice. — This  is  an  attractive  plant, 
growing  from  three  to  four  feet  high,  with  a  profusion 
of  bright  canary  yellow  flowers. 

With  the  Canna,  as  with  most  other  plants,  new 
varieties  are  being  constantly  introduced,  so  that  to  fur- 
nish anything  like  a  complete  list,  would  simply  be  an 


CANNA.  57 

impossibility.     Of  the  dwarf  varieties,  the  following  list 
is  all  that  can  be  desired  : 

C.  Childsi  (The  Tiger  Canna).— The  plants  begin 
to  produce  flowers  when  oiily  two  feet  high  and  continue 
blooming  very  freely  till  frost.  It  can  also  be  flowered 
in  pots  during  winter  and  is  very  beautiful.  The  flowers 
are  borne  in  large  compact  panicles,  are  of  large  size  and 
perfect  shape,  with  broad  petals,  and  of  a  bright  glossy 
yellow  color,Hhickly  spotted  with  crimson. 

Antoine  Crozy. — Flowers  deep  crimson,  light 
green  foliage. 

Emile  Leclerc. — Flowers  golden  yellow,  mottled 
crimson  and  scarlet,  deep  green  foliage. 

Admiral  Courbet. — Flowers  light  yellow,  speckled 
and  blotched  with  orange  scarlet,  light  green  foliage. 

Edouard  Andre. — Deep  carmine  flowers,  choco- 
late foliage. 

Flamboyant.  —  Flowers    crimson    lake    shaded 
orange,  deep  metallic  green  foliage. 

G.  Couston. — Flowers  light  primrose  yellow,  mot- 
tled bright  orange. 

J.  Cardioux. — Flowers  brilliant  cardinal  red. 

Louise  Chretien. — Flowers  clear  yellow,  speckled 
and  splashed  with  orange. 

Mme.  de  Liabaud. — A  grand  variety;  flowers 
deep  carmine  lake,  sea-green  foliage. 

Revol  Massot. — Flowers  carmine  red,  lower  pet- 
als blotched  with  golden  yellow. 

Ulrich  Bruner. — Flowers  orange  red,  lower  petals 
striped  yellow,  deep  green  foliage. 

As  flowering  plants,  the  dwarf  varieties,  Crozy 's 
Cannas,  are  the  most  desirable.  But  for  the  sub-tropical 
garden,  some  of  the  taller  growing  sorts,  particularly 
those  with  bronze  leaves,  are  by  far  the  most  effective. 


58  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

CAEPOLYSA. 

A  very  pretty  Cape  of  Good  Hope  bulb,  allied  to 
and  requiring  the  same  treatment  as  the  Ixia.  There  is 
but  one  species  discovered,  the  C.  spiralis.  The  flowers 
are  produced  in  an  umbel,  being  white  tinged  with  pink. 
The  plant  has  no  real  merit  for  cultivation. 

CHLIDANTHUS. 

This  is  a  very  pretty  Amaryllis-like  flower,  bright 
yellow,  and  fragrant.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  Gladiolus,  but  in  a  dry  and  well- 
drained  soil,  as  they  are  impatient  of  water.  The  bulbs 
should  be  kept  dry  and  warm  during  winter.  C.  fragrans 
is  the  only  species,  and  this  can  only  be  found  in  botan- 
ical collections. 

CHOKETIS. 
See  Hymenocallis. 

CLIMBING   LILY. 

See  Gloriosa. 

CLIVIA. 

A  very  pretty  genus,  represented  by  one  species  only, 
C.  nobilis,  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  is 
nearly  related  to  the  Amaryllis.  It  is  a  greenhouse  plant, 
and  when  once  established,  flowers  profusely.  The  flow- 
ers are  drooping,  from  forty  to  fifty  on  a  well-furnished 
spike,  of  a  delicate  flesh-color  throughout  the  greater 
part  of  the  tube,  heightening  to  a  deep  red.  The  plants 
are  increased  rapidly  by  division.  They  require  but 
little  care,  heat  being  about  the  only  essential.  When 
at  rest  they  can  be  kept  under  the  stage,  or  bench,  and 
watered  only  occasionally. 

COBURGIA. 

See  Stenomessen.. 


COLCHICUM — COLOCASIA.  59 

COLCHICUM. 

Meadow  Saffron. 

The  flowers  of  the  various  kinds  of  Colchicum  so 
closely  resemble  the  different  sorts  of  Crocus  as  not  to  be 
distinguishable  to  the  common  observer;  the  differ- 
ence being  a  botanical  one,  and  consists  in  their  hav- 
ing six  stamens  instead  of  three,  and  three  styles  instead 
of  one.  The  species  are  indigenous  in  the  temperate 
climates  of  Europe,  and  are  largely  cultivated  for  their 
medical  properties.  They  prefer  wet  meadows,  which 
they  often  cover  with  their  purple  crocus-like  blossoms. 
The  flowers  come  up  through  the  ground  without  the 
leaves,  in  autumn.  The  leaves  do  not  appear  until 
spring;  then  they  should  have  careful  attention,  as,  if 
they  are  cut  off  or  injured  in  any  manner  the  bulb  will 
not  make  sufficient  growth  to  flower  the  following 
autumn.  They  prefer  a  light  soil,  which  shonld  either 
be  protected  with  a  light  mulching,  after  the  foliage  has 
died  down  in  early  summer,  or  by  a  groTtli  of  some 
annual,  in  order  to  keep  the  ground  cool.  It  is  better 
to  let  them  remain  in  the  ground  undisturbed  for  several 
years.  If  a  removal  becomes  necessary,  from  any  cause, 
it  is  better  to  replant  with  as  little  delay  as  possible. 
All  the  species  have  the  same  general  character ;  a  par- 
ticular description  of  each  is  unnecessary. 

COLOCASIA. 

Among  the  species  that  make  up  this  genus  may  be 
found  some  very  interesting  plants  for  greenhouse  culti- 
vation and  for  the  sub-tropical  garden.  The  genus  is 
closely  allied  to  Caladium,  and  most  of  the  species  are 
known  under  that  name. 

C.  macrorhiza  (Alocasia  macrorhiza). — A  native 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  it  is  largely  cultivated 
as  an  article  of  food,  and  is  popularly  known  as  Taro. 
The  root-stalks  contain  large  quantities  of  starch,  and 


60  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

furnish  a  staple  article  of  diet  among  the  natives.  The 
leaves  are  likewise  used  as  a  vegetable.  A  variety  of  this 
species,  C.  m.  variegata,  is  an  interesting  greenhouse 
plant,  remarkable  for  the  bold  and  distinct  markings  of 
the  leaves,  consisting  of  light  green  and  pure  white. 
Its  cultivation  should  be  the  same  as  the  Caladium. 

C.  esculenta  (Caladium  esculentum).  This  is  the 
Tanyah  of  the  Southern  States,  and  was  formerly  con- 
siderably used  by  the  negroes  as  an  article  of  food.  The 
roots  are  boiled  and  eaten  like  potatoes.  The  tubers 
increase  in  length  annually  by  the  new  growth,  like 
those  of  the  Calla,  and  this  new  growth  is  not  eaten,  it 
being  too  acrid.  The  part  used  is  the  previous  year's 
growth.  This  species  makes  a  beautiful  plant  for  lawn 
decoration,  either  planted  singly,  in  clumps,  or  for  bor- 
ders of  sub-tropical  groups.  Its  requirements  are  a  deep 
rich  soil,  and  plenty  of  moisture.  If  these  are  provided 
a  single  plant  will  grow  six  feet  in  height,  with  leaves 
four  feet  long  and  three  feet  wide.  To  secure  a  speci- 
men of  this  kind  the  plant  should  have  a  pail  of  water 
given  it  every  day  that  it  does  not  rain.  The  market  is 
supplied  with  the  tubers  of  this  species  from  Florida, 
where  it  is  extensively  grown  on  marshy  ground.  A 
variety  from  Cuba  is  found  in  the  markets,  but  it  is  not 
as  desirable,  as  the  leaves  are  smaller  and  the  stems 
purplish. 

C.  odorata. — This  has  large  cordate  leaves,  with 
rounded  lobes,  and  forms  a  stem-like  root,  often  several 
feet  in  height.  It  is  a  splendid  plant  for  garden 
decoration. 

There  are  several  other  species  and  varieties,  but 
there  have  been  so  many  changes  in  their  classification, 
that  much  confusion  exists  in  regard  to  their  nomencla- 
ture, the  same  species  being,  at  different  times,  called 
Caladium,  Alocasia  and  Colocasia. 


COMMELIffA — COtfANTHERA — COtfVALLARIA.         61 

COMMELINA. 
Day  Flower. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty  native  plants,  annuals  and 
perennials,  hardy  and  greenhouse  trailers ;  common 
throughout  the  Southern  States.  The  only  species  of 
value  as  a  flowering  plant  is  0.  ccelestis,  which  makes  an 
excellent  border  plant.  Its  flowers  are  blue,  and  of 
more  intensity  than  perhaps  can  be  found  in  any  other 
vegetable  form.  The  tubers  should  be  taken  up  in 
autumn,  and  given  the  same  attention  as  is  paid  to  the 
Dahlia,  only  that  in  spring  they  may  be  planted  without 
first  being  started  into  growth. 

CONANTHERA. 

Cummingia. 

A  very  rare  bulb,  native  of  Chili,  and  of  difficult 
culture.  The  plants  grow  in  winter,  flowering  in  April, 
after  which  they  require  rest  the  entire  summer.  In 
their  native  habitat  the  natives  use  the  roots — which 
taste,  when  cooked,  not  unlike  sweet  chestnuts — as  an 
article  of  food.  The  flowers  are  bine,  but  are  not  of 
sufficient  importance  to  compensate  for  the  room  they 
would  require  in  the  greenhouse. 

CONVALLARIA. 

Lily  of  the  Valley. 

Of  this  genus  there  is  but  one  species,  Convallaria 
majalis,  so  common  in  our  gardens,  and  one  of  the 
most  important  in  the  list  of  florists'  flowers.  The 
species  is  widely  disseminated,  being  found  plentiful  in 
England,  but  by  far  the  most  common  in  the  province 
of  Hanover,  Germany,  where  it  completely  covers  the 
ground,  in  the  woods,  and  will  rignt  for  possession  in 
the  cultivated  fields.  At  the  time  of  flowering,  the  air  is 
scented  for  a  considerable  distance  by  the  agreeable  per- 


62  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 


LILT  OF  THE   VALLEY, 


COKTALLAEIA.  63 

fume.  The  woods  about  Hanover,  as  well  as  in  other 
parts  of  Germany,  are  regularly  visited  on  Whit  Monday 
by  numerous  parties  from  the  cities,  who  go  to  gather 
these  May-flowers  (Maiblumen),  and  the  forest,  on  that 
day,  is  a  scene  of  festivity  and  mirth.  From  the  earliest 
dawn  to  the  closing  of  the  day  the  roads  leading  to  the 
forests  are  thronged  by  persons  of  all  ages,  and  nearly 
every  house  is  furnished  with  the  Whitsuntide  bouquet 
of  Lilies  of  4he  Valley.  An  apparently  identical  species 
is  found  in  our  country,  on  the  higher  Alleghanies  to 
the  Southward. 

Although  not  a  bulb,  its  position,  commercially, 
entitles  it  to  the  same  place  in  this  book  that  it  occupies 
with  the  florist  and  seedsman  in  their  business,  which 
is  an  important  one.  The  value  of  the  Lily  of  the  Valley 
pips  used  for  forcing,  by  the  florists,  is  more  than 
double  of  that  of  any  one  kind  of  bulb.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  florists  in  this  country,  each  of  whom  force  half  a 
million  pips  annually.  So  systematic  has  become  the 
method  of  forcing,  that  the  flowers  can  be  obtained 
every  week  in  the  year  from  our  leading  florists.  For 
this  purpose  a  supply  is  constantly  kept  in  cold  storage, 
at  a  temperature  just  above  freezing  point,  and  brought 
forward  in  lots  of  from  5,000  to  50,000,  as  the  market 
demands.  The  supply  is  wholly  from  Germany,  and 
there  are  two  varieties,  or,  rather,  trade  sorts.  One  is 
known  as  Hamburg,  the  other,  Berlin  pips,  the  differ- 
ence between  the  two  being  considerable.  The  Ham- 
burg pips  are  larger,  and  later  in  coming  into  flower. 
The  Berlin  pips  are  much  sought  because  of  earliness, 
the  size  of  the  pips  making  no  difference  in  the  length 
of  the  spike,  or  the  number  of  bells  on  the  same. 

The  difference  between  the  two  classes  arises  from 
the  conditions  of  soil  and  locality  only.  Hamburg  pips 
are  grown  near  Berlin,  and  Berlin  pips  near  Hamburg. 
From  any  dealer  in  either  city  both  varieties  can  be 


64  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

obtained.  Where  the  soil  is  very  heavy  and  wet,  the 
season  of  growth  will  be  longer,  and  the  pips  larger  and 
stronger.  This  is  the  character  of  much  of  the  land 
near  Hamburg;  but  for  that  market  many  pips  are 
grown  miles  away,  where  the  soil  is  of  a  lighter  or  sandy 
nature,  more  like  that  of  Berlin.  The  pips  ripen 
earlier,  are  not  as  large,  and  are,  in  all  respects,  like 
those  from  Berlin,  where  the  soil  is  light.  Pips,  for 
market,  must  be  three  years  old,  to  produce  satisfactory 
spikes  of  bloom.  In  a  heavy  soil,  pips  two  years  old  will 
be  as  large  as  those,  grown  in  a  lighter  soil,  will  become 
in  three  years,  but  they  will  not  do  for  the  florist,  as  the 
spikes  will  contain  but  half  as  many  bells  as  they  should. 
Two-years-old  pips  are  often  sent  to  this  market ;  they 
have  sold  well,  because  they  look  well,  but  the  results 
were  disappointing,  and  the  fault  has  generally  been  laid 
to  the  grower,  when  it  is  due  to  those  who  wish  to  sell 
cheap. 

The  perfection  of  soil  for  pips  would  be  a  rather 
heavy  loam,  made  rich,  and  the  location  should  be  on  a 
southern  slope,  where  it  would  be  dry,  warm  and  airy. 
There  the  pips  would  grow  strong  and  ripen  quickly, 
consequently  they  would  get  sufficient  rest  to  force  early. 
Such  a  condition  of  soil  and  climate  is  found  in  some  of 
the  valleys  of  the  Harz  mountains,  where  the  Lily  of  the 
Valley  is  extensively  grown,  and  for  early  forcing  there 
is  none  better,  if  as  good.  These  pips  bring  the  highest 
price  of  any  in  the  market.  In  other  words,  the  dealers 
charge  a  higher  price  for  these  than  for  any  others, 
simply  because  they  are  better,  although  the  Hamburg 
merchant  is  very  careful  not  to  mention  locality  as  the 
cause  of  good  pips,  prefering  his  own  reputation  to 
stand  for  that.  In  evidence  of  this  we  would  say,  that 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  successful  florists,  near  New 
York,  last  year  tried,  as  an  experiment,  twenty-five 
thousand  of  these  pips,  and  they  gave  him  ninety-five 


CONTALLARIA.  65 

per  cent,  of  perfect  flowers  in  December,  something  pre- 
viously unheard  of  in  the  culture  of  this  flower,  at  that 
season.  This  result  came  because  the  pips  had  their 
needed  rest  after  being  fully  matured  and  ripened.  Had 
they  been  four  weeks  longer  in  growing,  as  they  are  in 
some  other  localities,  they  would  not  have  endured  the 
forcing  necessary  to  produce  early  flowers.  Pips  grown 
where  they  mature  later,  are  equally  as  good  for  late 
winter  or  sgring  flowers,  and  better  for  very  late  flowers, 
after  having  been  in  cold  storage. 

The  culture  of  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  simple,  yet, 
if  not  understood,  failure  will  surely  result.  The 
method  generally  pursued  is  to  place  the  pips  in  shallow 
boxes,  say  four  inches  deep,  although  three  inches  is 
quite  sufficient,  in  soil  or  sphagnum,  it  matters  but  little 
what,  as  the  pips  do  not  throw  out  new  roots,  but  sub- 
sist wholly  on  the  food  stored  up  in  their  growth,  and 
the  water  given  during  the  forcing  period.  One  inch 
apart  each  way  is  sufficient  space ;  some  grow  them 
even  closer,  but  we  should  not  recommend  it.  The  best 
way  is  to  set  the  flat,  or  box,  on  the  bench,  at  an  angle 
of  about  forty-five  degrees,  put  half  an  inch  of  soil,  or 
moss,  or  a  mixture  of  both,  at  the  end,  then  a  row  of 
pips,  and  alternate  one  inch  apart,  until  the  box  is  filled ; 
the  top  of  the  pip  should  be  but  little  below  the  surface. 
When  full,  water  thoroughly.  Place  the  boxes,  as  filled, 
in  a  cold  frame  or  shed,  where  they  can  have  a  little 
frost,  but  not  severe  freezing.  Some  mulching  should 
be  thrown  over  the  tops,  to  prevent  freezing,  as  well  as 
to  keep  the  air  from  them.  They  should  remain  in  this 
condition,  at  least,  four  weeks,  when  they  may  be 
brought  into  the  forcing  house  as  wanted.  The  putting 
of  the  pips  into  the  boxes  should  commence  as  soon  as 
they  arrive  from  Europe,  as  they  are  liable  to  get  heated, 
more  or  less,  in  passage,  which  starts  them  into  growth. 
The  longer  they  remain  unpacked,  unless  they  are  placed 
5 


66  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

in  cold  storage,  where  they  cannot  start,  the  more  dan- 
ger there  is  of  their  starting,  and  if  started  before  they 
are  put  into  boxes  they  will  not  perfect  their  flowers. 

A  wide  difference  of  opinion  exists  as  to  the  temper- 
ature into  which  they  should  be  placed.  But  the  most 
approved  plan  seems  to  be  to  start  them  in  a  low  temper- 
ature, say  from  50°  to  60°,  and  running  it  up  as  high  as 
90°  before  they  come  into  flower ;  after  that  place  them 
in  a  cooler  house,  say  from  60°  to  70°,  to  harden  off. 
Most  growers  keep  them  dark  until  considerable  growth 
is  made,  to  draw  them  up  as  much  as  possible.  We 
have  seen  them  flower  to  perfection  when  the  boxes  were 
placed  underneath  the  benches,  on  the  pips,  bringing 
them  into  full  light  after  the  first  bells  were  opened. 
But  good  strong  spikes  of  bloom  are  best  obtained  when 
they  have  plenty  of  light  and  air,  and  with  a  temperature 
of  85°  to  90°  after  they  are  first  started. 

They  may  be  started  and  flowered  in  pots  very  suc- 
cessfully, by  following  the  same  course  of  treatment 
from  the  start.  Twenty-five  pips  can  be  grown  in  a 
seven-inch  pot,  and,  when  they  are  well  grown,  they 
meet  a  ready  sale  in  the  markets.  Although  there  is 
but  one  species,  there  are  several  varieties,  among  them 
a  pink-flowered  sort,  and  a  double-flowered  variety, 
neither  being  useful  nor  beautiful. 

COOPERIA. 

A  genus  of  bulbs  allied  to  the  Zephyranthes,  but  of 
larger  bulb,  stronger  habit  of  growth,  and  producing 
larger  flowers.  The  flowers  are  mostly  white,  and  they 
open  quite  flat,  always  first  expanding  at  night,  but 
when  once  open  they  remain  until  the  petals  fall.  They 
are,  properly,  winter-flowering  plants,  and  it  is  difficult 
to  keep  the  bulbs  in  a  condition  for  summer  flowering. 

C.  pedunculata. — Decidedly  the  best  of  the  species 
for  the  garden ;  its  flowers  are  produced  solitary,  but  in 


CORBULABIA — CRitfUM — CROCUS.  67 

succession,  so  that  a  clump  of  them  will  be  in  continu- 
ous bloom  from  June  until  September.  They  can  be 
increased  rapidly  from  seeds  or  from  offsets.  The  bulbs 
must  be  kept  dry  and  cool,  but  away  from  frost  during 
winter,  and  planted  with  other  summer  flowering  bulbs 
in  spring.  They  also  flower  well  during  winter  in  the 
house,  but  they  will  not  there  take  the  place  of  winter- 
flowering  bulbs. 

CORBULARIA. 

A  synonym  for  Narcissus  Bulbocodium. 

CRINUM. 
See  Page  19. 

CROCUS. 

This  well-known  genus  of  early  spring  and  autumn 
flowers  contains  about  ninety  distinct  species,  but  few  of 
which,  however,  are  now  included  among  our  garden 
flowers.  The  many  choice  varieties  which  are  the  results 
of  hybridization,  have  taken  the  place  of  the  species. 
The  crocus  is  divided  into  two  distinct  classes,  the  spring 
and  the  autumn  flowering.  The  spring-flowering  crocus, 
Crocus  versicolor,  is  of  the  easiest  culture  ;  but  it  is  well 
to  remark,  that  the  too  common  practice  of  putting 
them  into  poor  and  badly  prepared  ground,  is  simply 
doing  them  great  injustice.  While  they  will  flower  with 
little  or  no  care,  they  amply  repay  the  best  possible 
attention ;  a  well-prepared  bed  of  deep  rich  soil  is  their 
delight.  In  such  a  soil  the  number  of  flowers  will,  at 
least,  be  doubled,  and  their  size  materially  increased. 
They  also  want  a  dry  situation ;  one  where  water  stands 
during  winter  is  fatal  to  the  solid  bulb  or  corm. 

Many  complaints  are  made  by  amateurs  of  their 
Crocuses  not  flowering ;  there  is  really  but  one  cause  of 
failure  when  a  new  bed  is  made,  and  newly  imported 
corms  are  planted ;  that  is,  the  work  is  too  long  delayed. 


68  BULBS  ANJ)  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

If  Crocuses  are  to  be  planted  at  all,  they  must  be  planted 
at  the  proper  time,  which  is  as  soon  as  the  corms  can  be 
procured  in  the  autumn  after  their  arrival  from  Europe. 
They  usually  commence  growth  by  the  first  of  Septem- 


SPRING   FLOWERING   CROCUS. 

ber,  and  if  planting  is  long  deferred  the  germ  is 
destroyed ;  for  grow  they  will,  whether  in  or  out  of  the 
soil.  Planting  should  not  be  deferred  later  than  the 
first  of  October,  if  the  best  results  are  to  be  attained. 


CROCUS.  69 

The  corms  should  be  planted,  at  least,  three  inches  deep, 
for  as  the  new  corms  form  above  or  beyond  the  old  ones, 
they  will,  in  a  few  years,  push  themselves  out  of  the 
ground  if  planted  too  near  the  surface.  The  corms  may 
remain  where  planted  for  thiee  or  four  years,  without 
removal,  or  as  long  as  they  continue  to  flower  well. 
When  a  change  becomes  necessary,  take  up  and  replant 
the  same  day  if  possible,  and  do  it  as  soon  as  convenient 
after  the  foliage  has  dried  up. 

One  of  the  peculiarities  of  Crocuses  is,  that  when 
they  are  in  flower  the  seed-vessel  is  still  under  ground, 
almost  close  to  the  corm ;  and  it  is  not  till  some  weeks 
after  the  flower  has  decayed  that  it  emerges,  on  a  white 
peduncle,  and  ripens  its  seeds  above  the  ground.  Cro- 
cuses should  not  be  planted  in  a  shaded  situation,  as 
they  require  full  sunlight  to  mature  their  foliage,  upon 
which  their  next  season's  flowering  depends.  In  plant- 
ing them,  there  are  two  important  considerations ;  the 
first  is  situation.  Shade  must  ever  be  avoided,  for  with- 
out sunshine  the  Crocus  is  without  a  home.  Select 
some  warm  cozy  corner,  where  the  sun  delights  to  linger, 
and  there  plant  the  corms.  The  next  consideration  is 
selection,  and  that  is,  in  a  large  measure,  a  matter  of 
taste.  The  quality  of  the  corms,  however,  is  very  im- 
portant, and  should,  in  all  cases,  be  of  the  best.  We 
always  advise  the  planting  of  named  varieties ;  not  that 
a  plant  is  any  better  for  its  having  a  name,  but  for 
the  fact  that  small-sized  inferior  bulbs  are  put  into  the 
mixtures,  while  the  best  bulbs  are  sold  under  names.  And 
it  is  as  well  to  remark  here  that  the  Dutch  bulb-growers 
do  not  grow  anything  in  mixture ;  everything  is  under 
name,  and  mixtures  are  of  surplus  stock  and  second 
quality  of  bulbs.  Color,  and  arrangement  in  planting, 
is  a  matter  of  choice.  Having  determined  upon  that, 
select  the  best  bulbs  to  secure  your  object.  A  few  of 
the  best  are : 


W  BULBS   AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

White. — Mont  Blanc,  La  Neige,  and  Queen  Vic- 
toria. 

Yellow. — Large  Yellow,  Largest  Size. 

Blue. — Large  Blue,  and  Lord  Palmerston. 

Purple. — In  this  class  the  blues  might  have  been 
placed,  as  a  really  blue  crocus  does  not  exist ;  those 
named  simply  approach  the  blue.  Purple  with  white 
markings,  white  and  yellow  are  the  predominating  col- 
ors of  the  crocus,  and  these  contrast  finely  together. 
The  best  purples  are  : 

Large  Purple. — Chas.  Dickens,  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, and  Othello. 

The  following  are  fine  marked  and  striped,  and  are 
remarkable  for  the  size  of  their  flowers. 

General  Garibaldi. — White,  striped  with  purple. 

La  Majesteuse. — Large,  violet-striped,  on  a  deli- 
cately tinted  very  firm  ground. 

Ne  Plus  Ultra. — Blue,  with  white  border. 

Lady  Stanhope. — Violet,  light  border. 

Pride  of  Albion. — Very  large  and  fine,  white, 
striped  with  lilac. 

Sir  Walter  Scott. — Finely  striped,  purple  and 
white,  one  of  the  best. 

Prince  of  Wales. — Violet  and  white. 

The  Crocus  for  the  Window  Garden.— The 
Crocus  does  admirably  as  a  pot  plant,  but  to  insure  suc- 
cess the  conns  should  be  planted,  five  or  six  in  a  five- 
inch  pot,  as  soon  as  they  can  be  obtained  in  autumn. 
Plunge  the  pots  in  coal  ashes  outside  until  they  are  filled 
with  roots,  which  will  be  by  the  first  of  December,  when 
they  may  be  brought  into  the  house,  gradually  bringing 
them  to  the  light,  but  at  no  time  giving  them  heat. 
Full  light  and  a  temperature  not  above  50°,  will  bring 
them  into  flower,  each  bulb  giving  several  blooms.  High 
temperature  will  surely  blast  the  flowers. 

Autumn  Flowering  Crocus. — These  are  rarely 
geen  in  cultivation,  from  the  fact  of  their  coming  into 


CROCUS — CROWN   IMPERIAL — CUMMItfGIA.  71 

flower  when  our  gardens  are  filled  with  flowers  useful 
for  cutting,  more  showy,  and  in  every  sense  more 
attractive.  However  beautiful  a  flower  may  be  in  its 
grassy  bed,  if  it  cannot  be  made  to  appear  beautiful  as  a 
cut  flower,  it  has  but  a  small  place  in  the  garden.  The 
species  of  this  class  are  : 

C.  sativus  (Saffron  Crocus). — A  very  handsome 
plant,  with  flowers  of  a  pale  purple  or  violet,  readily  dis- 
tinguished^from  all  the  other  species,  by  the  prominence 
of  its  stigmas.  These  stigmas,  when  dried,  form  the 
saffron  of  commerce.  The  flowers  and  leaves  of  the 
Saffron  Crocus  appear  simultaneously  in  September.  It 
is  a  very  ornamental  species,  and  requires  no  further 
care  than  planting  in  spring  in  any  good  garden  soil,  its 
preference  being  for  one  of  a  sandy  nature. 

C.  serotinus. — A  purple-flowered  species  from 
the  Crimea,  occasionally  found  among  the  rocks  by  the 
sea  shore  in  Portugal. 

C.  speciosus  (Showy  Crocus). — The  most  beauti- 
ful of  all  the  Crocuses,  from  the  large  size  of  its  flowers, 
which  appear,  in  October,  without  the  leaves ;  the  latter 
are  not  protruded  until  the  flowers  are  withered.  The 
withered  flowers  remain  on  the  plant  till  the  ripening  of 
the  seed,  which  takes  place  the  following  April  or  May. 
It  differs  from  all  other  Crocuses,  in  thriving  under  the 
shade  of  trees,  and  in  preferring  a  situation  near  the 
water. 

CROWN  IMPERIAL. 

See  Fritillaria. 

CUMMING1A. 
A  synonym  of  Conanthera.     See  Page  61. 

CYANELLA. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty  little  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
bulbs,  with  white,  blue,  yellow  and  red  flowers,  appear- 


72  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

ing  in  July  or  August.  The  flowers  are  something  like 
those  of  the  Ixia,  but  smaller,  and  are  produced  in  clus- 
ters of  ten  or  twelve,  on  long  pedicels  spreading  widely 
from  the  main  stem.  The  bulbs  do  best  when  left  in 
the  ground  during  winter,  but  they  must  be  protected 
against  frost,  or  water,  by  a  cold  frame,  or  liberal 
mulching. 

CYCLAMEN. 

When  well  managed,  there  are  few  winter  flowering 
bulbs  more  pleasing  or  attractive  than  the  Cyclamen. 
They  are  not  classed  among  popular  plants,  from  the 
fact  that  thejr  blooms  have  no  commercial  value.  But 
for  objects  of  interest,  they  have  but  few  rivals  in  the 
greenhouse  or  conservatory.  When  brought  from  the 
greenhouse  to  the  window  garden  they  continue  to  pro- 
duce their  charming  flowers  longer  than  most  other 
plants.  The  genus  Cyclamen  contains  but  few  species, 
just  how  many  it  is  difficult  to  say,  as  it  is  a  question 
upon  which  authorities  differ,  from  the  fact  that  many 
varieties  are  included  in  the  list  of  so-called  species.  It 
is,  however,  to  C.  Persicum  that  we  are  indebted  for  the 
many  types  and  varieties  that  are  commercially  known 
and  sold  under  the  generic  name  Cyclamen. 

The  genus  has  long  been  under  cultivation  as  a  flow- 
ering plant,  as  we  find  it  beautifully  illustrated  as  early 
as  1612,  and  from  the  drawings  then  made  we  can  recog- 
nize the  most  improved  varieties  of  the  present  day. 
The  origin  of  one  common  name,  Sowbread,  is  so  old 
that  it  is  past  finding  out.  Pliny  said  the  roots  poisoned 
swine,  whence  the  name  Sowbread,  or  poison,  was  given 
it.  The  more  general,  as  well  as  the  more  reasonable, 
inference  is  that  it  derived  this  name  from  the  fact  of 
swine  being  fond  of  the  roots,  and  that  they  are  whole- 
some, rather  than  injurious. 

The  only  practicable  way  of  growing  the  Cyclamen 
is  from  seed,  which  is  produced  freely.  It  germinates 


CYCLAMEN. 


73 


the  more  rapidly  if  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  As  the  plants 
are  wanted  for  winter  and  spring  use,  the  seed  should 
be  sown  in  pots  or  pans  about  the  first  of  December,  and 
given*  a  gentle  bottom  heat  and  a  humid  atmosphere. 
The  soil  in  which  the  seed  is  sown  should  be  light,  open 


PERSIAN   CYCLAMEN. 


and  friable,  in  order  that  the  seedlings  may  be  pricked 
out  at  the  proper  time,  without  injury  to  their  roots. 
This  work  cannot  be  done  all  at  one  time,  as  some  of 
the  seeds  will  germinate  much  sooner  than  others,  and, 
when  up,  the  plants  make  a  more  rapid  growth.  The 


74  BULBS   AND    TUBEROUS-HOOTED   PLANTS. 

seedlings  should  be  pricked  out  into  thumb  pots  when 
their  first  leaves  are  not  more  than  half  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter. The  young  bulbs  then  will  be  about  the  size  of 
small  peas,  and,  in  potting,  these  should  not  be  -placed 
below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  which  should  be  coarse, 
light  and  rich,  with  pieces  of  pots,  finely  broken,  inter- 
mixed, and  be  well  drained.  Although  the  Cyclamen 
demands  a  moist  atmosphere,  and  the  soil  in  the  pots 
must  not  get  dry  while  the  plants  are  in  a  growing  state, 
there  is  nothing  more  injurious  to  them  than  water,  if  it 
stands  about  the  roots,  or  the  soil  becomes  sodden. 
From  the  time  the  seed  is  sown  until  the  plants  are  in 
flower,  they  must  never  receive  a  check.  Growth  must 
be  rapid  and  steady.  Frequent  shif  tings  will  be  neces- 
sary, at  least  as  often  as  the  pots  are  nicely  filled  with 
roots,  and  in  shifting,  remove  from  one  pot  to  another 
but  one  size  larger,  always  using  the  same  kind  of  soil. 
During  summer  the  plants  may  be  grown  in  a  shaded 
frame,  outside,  or  in  the  greenhouse,  which  is,  by  far, 
the  most  convenient.  If  in  the  latter,  the  glass  should 
be  whitewashed,  as  they  must  be  protected  against  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun,  as  well  as  dry  atmosphere.  As 
early  as  the  October  after  the  seed  is  sown,  the  plants 
will  have  filled  five-inch  pots,  the  bulbs  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  diameter,  and  flowering  beautifully,  each  plant 
producing  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  blossoms.  The  colors 
will  be  from  pure  white  to  the  darkest  purplish  crimson, 
with  all  the  variations  these  colors  will  produce ;  the 
more  pleasing  being  pure  white  with  crimson  eye,  or  white 
with  delicate  pink  spots.  The  only  enemy  the  Cyclamen 
has  to  encounter  is  the  thrip,  and  this  will  not  be 
troublesome  if  the  plants  are  kept  in  continuous  growth. 
Should  the  appearance  of  thrip  become  manifest  by  the 
curling  of  the  leaf,  remove  it  as  quickly  as  possible ; 
allow  no  foliage  on  the  plant  that  is  not  perfectly 
healthy,  and  this  pest  will  soon  disappear. 


CYCLAMEN.  75 

The  summer  after  flowering,  the  pots  should  be 
plunged  in  some  shaded  border,  away  from  drip,  and 
given  no  further  thought  until  the  first  of  October,  when 
they  should  be  repotted.  When  this  is  done  give  them 
entirely  fresh  soil,  with  as  little  injury  as  possible  to  the 
old  roots,  carefully  removing  such  as  are  dead  or  dis- 
eased. Put  the  bulbs  in  the  same  sized  pots  from  which 
they  were  taken,  and  shift  on  into  larger  ones,  as  may 
become  necessary,  always  bearing  in  mind  the  important 
fact  that  the  plants  do  best  with  their  bulbs  wholly 
above  the  soil. 

THE    SPECIES   ABE  ! 

C.  persicum. — The  species  described  above.  A 
native  of  Persia.  Except  in  rare  or  botanical  collections, 
the  other  species  are  not  often  met. 

C.  africanum  (African).— This  species  is  of  deli- 
cate habit,' with  fine,  large  blush-white  flowers. 

C.  cilicicum. — A  native  of  Cilecia,  and  resembles 
C.  europceum. 

C.  Coum. — A  native  of  Asia  Minor;  with  mostly 
deep  red  inodorous  flowers ;  of  this  there  are  several 
varieties. 

C.  europseum. — This  species  is  widely  distributed 
throughout  Central  and  Southern  Europe.  Flowers 
mostly  bright  red  and  very  fragrant. 

C.  grsecum  (Greek). — From  the  mountains  of 
Greece.  Flowers  pure  white,  with  a  bright  purple  spot 
at  the  base.  The  bulbs  of  this  species  are  very  large, 
and  often  irregular  in  form. 

C.  hedersefolium  (Ivy-leaved  Cyclamen). — In 
many  respects  this  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  of  all 
the  Cyclamens.  Its  habit  is  not  so  graceful  as  that  of 
C.  persicum,  neither  is  it  as  free-flowering,  but  it  is 
more  vigorous  and  hardy.  It  is  found  wild  in  some 
parts  of  England,  It  is  very  handsome  in  foliage,  the 


76  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

leaves  being  quite  ornamental  and  produced  in  the  great- 
est profusion.  The  flowers  precede  the  leaves  and  con- 
tinue from  August  to  October. 

C.  ibericum  (Iberian). — A  native  of  the  Caucasus; 
flowers  bright  red  in  the  type,  with  a  bright  purple  spot 
at  the  base. 

C.  neapolitanum  (Neapolitan). — A  close  alliance 
with  C.  europceum. 

CYPELLA. 

A  handsome  greenhouse  bulb,  of  easy  culture.  The 
flowers  are  yellow,  with  a  dark  stripe  down  each  petal. 
C.  Herlerti,  the  only  species,  is  a  native  of  South  Amer- 
ica. This  is  one  of  a  large  class  of  bulbs,  beautiful,  but 
not  popular.  It  cannot  be  grown  outside  of  the  green- 
house, other  than  in  the  most  temperate  climates,  and 
it  has  not  a  commercial  value  that  will  warrant  green- 
house care. 

OYKTANTHUS. 

A  small  genus  of  deciduous  and  evergreen  bulbs, 
from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  While  the  flowers  of  the 
Cyrtanthus*  are  all  beautiful,  and  some  singularly  so, 
the  difficulty  in  producing  them,  and  in  preserving  the 
bulbs,  is  so  great,  in  proportion,  that  they  are  rarely 
met.  They  require  treatment  so  different  from  nearly 
all  other  plants,  that  a  house  must  be  devoted  to  them 
alone,  if  success  is  to  be  attained.  The  ordinary  green- 
house is  too  cold  and  damp  ;  the  stove  house  is  too  warm 
and  damp.  Hence  the  difficulty  in  their  management. 

DAFFODIL. 

See  Narcissus. 

DAHLIA. 

But  few  of  the  many  genera  of  flowering  plants  have 
had  so  many  ups  and  downs,  in  the  way  of  popularity, 
as  the  Dahlia.  When  first  introduced,  the  single  forms 


DAHLIA. 


TYPES  OF  DOFBLE  DAHLIAS. 


78.  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

created  a  most  wonderful  sensation.  The  fact  of  the 
Marchioness  of  Bute,  one  of  the  most  enthusiastic 
patrons  of  botany,  having  introduced  it  into  England 
from  Madrid  in  1789,  was  a  sufficient  indorsement  of  its 
beauty  and  usefulness,  to  make  it  at  once  one  of  the 
most  popular  flowering  plants.  When  the  Dahlia  was 
first  introduced  into  Spain,  it  was  named  by  Abbe 
Cavanilles,  director  of  the  Eoyal  Gardens,  in  honor  of 
Dr.  Andrew  Dahl,  a  Swedish  botanist.  After  that,  Prof. 
Wildenow,  of  Berlin,  laboring  under  the  impression  that 
the  name  adopted  by  Cavanilles  had  been  previously 
applied  to  another  plant,  discontinued  the  name  Dahlia, 
and  substituted  that  of  Georgina,  in  honor  of  Prof. 
George,  of  St.  Petersburg!!.  For  a  number  of  years  it 
was  known  under  the  latter  name,  and  is  so  termed  in 
some  of  London's  writings. 

Its  cultivation,  however,  did  not  become  very  gen- 
eral until  the  illustrious  naturalists,  Humboldt  and 
Bonpland,  in  descending  from  the  tableland  in  Mexico 
towards  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  rediscovered  it 
growing  on  the  prairies,  at  a  height  of  nearly  five  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  plants  then 
discovered  were  transmitted  to  the  botanical  garden  at 
Mexico,  and  in  1804  transferred  to  the  various  public 
gardens  throughout  Europe,,  But  little  progress  was 
made  in  their  cultivation,  or  in  the  development  of  the 
species,  for  several  years  thereafter.  The  following 
account  of  the  origin  of  the  double  forms  we  take  from 
the  "History  of  the  Dahlia,"  by  Robert  Hogg,  Esq.,  of 
London,  published  in  1853- 

"Several  cultivators  on  the  continent,  observing  the 
natural  disposition  of  the  Dahlia  to  sport  from  its  orig- 
inal form,  began  now  to  direct  their  attention  to  raising 
new  varieties,  and  treating  it  as  a  florists'  flower.  Many 
attempts  were  made  to  procure  double  flowers,  but  with- 
out success.  In  1806,  the  gardener  at  Malmaispn  for- 


DAHLIA.  79 

warded  to  the  gardener  at  St.  Cloud  all  the  three  varie- 
ties which  were  then  known,  namely,  D.  coccinea, 
D.  purpurea  and  D.  crocata.  These  produced  seeds, 
which  were  sown,  but,  notwithstanding  all  the  attempts 
which  were  made  year  after  year,  they  still  remained 
single.  In  Belgium,  however,  they  were  more  success- 
ful ;  for  we  learn  that  in  181*2,  M.  Donkelaar,  botanic 
gardener  at  Lou  vain,  having  sown  a  quantity  of  seeds, 
raised  plante  which  the  first  year  produced  all  single 
flowers.  Disappointed,  but  not  discouraged,  he  from 
these  saved  a  second  quantity,  which,  in  their  turn,  pro- 
duced semi-double  flowers;  and,  emboldened  with  the 
success  which  attained  this  second  essay,  he,  from  the 
best  of  these  semi-double  flowers,  produced  a  further 
supply  of  seed,  the  produce  of  which,  in  the  following 
year,  presented  him  with  three  plants  which  bore  flowers 
perfectly  double.  These  were,  therefore,  the  first  really 
double  flowers  ever  produced.  After  this  there  were 
many  varieties  raised,  of  all  shades  and  depths  of  color, 
and  from  this  time  the  Dahlia  began  to  attract  for  itself 
a  measure  of  interest,  which  has  gone  on  increasing,  and 
which,  even  at  the  present  day,  seems  to  be  as  great  and 
unabating  as  if  it  were  a  plant  of  the  most  recent  intro- 
duction, and  which  was  still  a  novelty  in  the  midst  of  us." 

The  popularity  of  the  Dahlia,  at  that  period,  was 
quite  as  great  in  this  country  as  in  Europe.  Exhibitions 
of  this  flower  alone  were  held  in  the  principal  cities,  and 
every  encouragement  was  given  to  the  production  of  new 
varieties.  From  that  time,  until  within  the  past  few 
years,  when  the  single  forms  were  again  introduced,  its 
popularity  waned,  while  the  enthusiasm  for  the  single 
forms  knew  no  bounds.  Again  the  double  forms  are 
attracting  as  much  attention  as  they  did  thirty  years  ago  ; 
new  varieties  are  being  brought  out,  and  the  older  ones 
reinstated  to  th  eir  former  position  in  the  garden. 

For  garden  display,  we  have  no  flower  that  can  be 
so  successfully  and  satisfactorily  grown  as  the  Dahlia. 


SO  BULBS  AKD   TtTBEROtrS-HOOTED  PLAKTS. 

It  is  of  the  easiest  culture,  and  a  proper  selection  will 
furnish,  for  two  or  three  months  of  the  season,  a  gor- 
geous mass  of  bloom.  The  double  Dahlias  are  divided 


TYPES  OF   SINGLE  DAHLIAS. 

into  several  classes  by  the  florists.  For  general  display 
we  prefer  the  Pompon  or  small-flowered  sorts.  They 
usually  bear  more  and  longer-stemmed  flowers,  standing 


DAHLIA.  81 

well  out  from  the  plant  in  regular  outline.  These  are 
fur  more  useful  for  cut  flowers,  as  they  can  he  more 
gracefully  arranged. 

Single  Dahlias. — "Where  large  masses  of  flowers 
are  desired  these  will  give  the  greatest  satisfaction,  as 
their  flowers  possess  the  most  gorgeous  colors,  while  the 
plants  are  more  graceful  and  pleasing.  Notwithstanding 
that  the  plant  is  of  perennial  habit,  and  is  rapidly 
increased  hy^tut tings,  or  division  of  tubers,  it  is  quite  as 
satisfactory  when  treated  as  an  annual.  When  treated  in 
this  manner,  seeds  from  the  choicest  varieties  alone  should 
he  saved,  such  as  have  the  largest  and  best  formed  flow- 
ers, of  the  most  positive  colors  and  best  defined  mark- 
ings. Seed  sown  in  a  frame,  ^-  hotbed,  or  even  in  pots 
in  the  house,  early  in  April,  make  fine  blooming  plants 
in  August,  and  will  continue  in  flower  until  killed  by 
frost.  September  is  really  the  month  for  the  Dahlia  ;  it 
is  then  in  perfection ;  our  hot,  dry  summers  are  not 
such  as  the  Dahlia  delights  in,  and  the  single  forms 
seem  more  sensitive  to  the  summer's  sun  than  do  the 
double  ones.  We  should  advise  keeping  over  a  few  of 
the  most  desirable  forms  and  colors,  from  which  to  save 
seed.  But  where  a  large  mass  is  required,  depend  wholly 
upon  seedlings,  which  should  be  planted  sufficiently 
close  to  spare  a  few  of  the  poorer  ones,  of  which  there 
will  always  be  a  goodly  number.  These  can  be  thrown 
out  when  the  first  flowers  appear,  and  the  remainder  will 
soon  spread  so  as  to  cover  the  ground.  The  plants 
should  be  set  in  rows  four  feet  apart,  and  two  feet  apart 
in  the  rows.  In  this  way  a  harmony  of  color  will  be 
secured  that  cannot  be  effected  by  artificial  arrangement. 
This  may  seem  strange,  as  the  gardener  would  naturally 
think  that  with  his  colors  all  assorted  he  could  plant 
with  more  artistic  skill  than  nature  would  employ.  K"ot 
so,  however,  'in  a  bed  of  seedlings ;  there  will  scarcely  be 
two  alike,  with  every  color,  from  the  most  positive  to 
6 


82  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-HOOTED  PLANTS. 

the  most  delicate  neutral  tint,  and  so  perfectly  blended 
that  nothing  but  the  most  perfect  harmony  is  visible. 

The  raising  of  Dahlias  from  seed  is  one  of  the  pleas- 
ures of  gardening,  and  we  cannot  understand  why  the 
practice  is  not  more  common,  since  it  is  attended  with  so 
little  difficulty  in  proportion  to  the  success  gained.  The 
certainty  of  getting  some  very  fine  varieties  is  well  bal- 
anced by  getting  some  that  are  not  worth  growing,  but 
these  are  easily  thrown  away,  giving  the  remaining 
plants  a  better  opportunity  for  development.  To  get 
choice  seed  is  the  important  work ;  this,  many  growers 
think,  can  only  be  obtained  by  cross-fertilization,  from 
which  opinion  we  dissent.  Our  opinion,  based  on  years 
of  experience,  is  that  selection  is  the  more  important 
work.  To  choose  for  seed-bearing  plants  such  as  have 
the  greatest  vigor,  grace  of  habit,  and,  withal,  such  as 
have  the  most  desirable  flowers,  as  regards  color,  form 
and  markings.  Seed  from  medium  or  poor  flowers 
should  never  be  saved,  neither  should  seeds  from  a  plant 
that  has  produced  other  than  perfect  flowers,  and  these 
should  be  grov/n  away  from  the  ornamental  border,  as 
but  few  flowers  should  be  left  on  the  plant  for  seed  ;  the 
other  of  the  buds  to  be  taken  off,  in  order  that  the  seed 
may  have  the  full  strength  of  the  plant  for  its  develop- 
ment. The  seed  of  the  single  Dahlia  should  be  saved  in 
August,  if  possible ;  if  left  until  the  nights  are  cool  the 
flowers  will  have  a  tendency  to  become  double ;  the 
floral  discs  will  elongate,  to  protect  the  seed  from  the 
cold,  which  they  do  not  do  in  hot  weather.  It  is  a  sin- 
gular fact  that  a  low  temperature  is  favorable  for  double 
forms.  In  hot  climates  the  flowers  of  the  Dahlia  will 
not  remain  double,  and  they  can  only  be  produced  by 
getting  tubers  annually  from  cold  climates ;  and  it  is 
nearly  as  difficult  to  retain  the  single  forms  in  cool 
climates. 

Cultivation  and  Propagation. — While  the  Dahlia 
will  grow  wherever  planted,  whether  the  soil  be  heavy  or 


DAHLIA. 


83 


light,  rich  or  poor,  there  is  no  plant  that  more  highly 
appreciates  good  generous  treatment.  To  produce  good 
double  flowers  in  profusion,  the  soil  must  be  strong, 
deep  and  rich.  The  plant  is  a  gross  feeder  and  requires 
plenty  of  light,  room  and  air.  With  these  requisites  an 
individual  plant  will  yield  an  enormous  number  of  flow- 
ers, proportionata  in  size  and 
color.  For  exhibition  flowers, 
disbudding  is  necessary ;  leave 
but  a  single  bud  on  a  leading 
branch,  and,  should  the 
weather  be  warm  and  dry,  ar- 
tificial watering  will  greatly 
enhance  the  size  and  sub- 
stance of  the  flower.  The  soil 
should  be  worked  often  and 
deep.  The  Dahlia  is  not  a 
weed,  but  a  noble  plant,  and 
as  such  should  receive  proper 
attention. 

Propagation  is  effected  in 
the  spring  by  division  of  the 
tubers,  which  should  be 
started  on  wet  moss  or  sand 
about  three  weeks  before  it  is 
time  for  planting  out  in  the 
border.  The  eyes  will  develop 
into  sprouts ;  then,  with  a 
fine  saw  cut  up  the  tubers,  leaving  but  a  single  eye 
cii  each  piece,  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  plant 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  potato.  For  the  rapid 
increase  of  desired  varieties  for  purposes  of  sale,  the 
tubers  should  be  put  in  the  propagating  bench  about  the 
first  of  January,  and  cuttings  taken  off  when  they  have 
made  two  joints ;  these  will  root  freely  with  slight  bot- 
tom heat.  When  nicely  rooted  pot  off  in  thumb  pots, 


SPROUTED  DAHLIA  TUBER. 


84  BULBS   AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED    PLANTS. 

and  carry  on  into  larger  pots  as  their  growth  demands, 
and  then  plant  out  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit. 

For  purposes  of  trade,  what  are  known  as  dry  pot 
roots  are  very  convenient,  as  they  can  be  distributed 
through  the  mails  as  easily  as  any  small  bulbs,  and  they 
make  plants,  in  every  respect,  equal  to  those  grown  from 


UNDIVIDED    CLUMP   OF   DAHLIA   TUBEES. 

larger  tubers.  These  are  grown  from  cuttings  in  three- 
inch  pots,  which  are  plunged  in  ashes  in  a  frame,  to  pre- 
vent their  roots  from  penetrating  the  soil,  and  grown  on 
during  the  summer,  drying  off  in  October.  When  dry, 
they  can  either  be  shaken  out  of  pots  and  stored  away, 
like  the  large  tubers,  or  kept  in  the  pots  until  wanted. 

Taking  up  and  Storing-. — After  the  frost  has 
killed  the  tops,  and  before  there  is  danger  of  the  ground 
freezing  up,  the  tubers  can  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a 


85 


dry  room  free  from  frost.  Any  treatment  which  will 
keep  the  potato  during  the  winter,  will  keep  the  Dahlia 
equally  well.  We  prefer  not  to  take  the  tubers  up  for 
at  least  a  week  after  a  frost,  as  they  will  ripen  much 
better  after  the  tops  have  been  killed  than  before,  and 
the  tubers  are  not  so  liable  to  shrivel  up  during  rest. 

The  species  from  which  all  the  varieties,  both  double 
and  single,  hare  originated,  are  as  follows  : 

D.  co^  cine  a  (Scarlet).  —  One  of  the  species  first 
introduced,  and  also  the  one  of  modern  introduction; 
type  of  the  single  varieties. 

D.  excelsa.  —  One  of  the  strongest  growing  species  ; 
the  stem  strong  and  woody,  rising  over  twenty  feet. 

D.  gracilis  (Slender).  —  One  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  single  forms  ;  flowers  bright  orange-scarlet. 

D.  imperialis  (Imperial).  —  A  very  beautiful  spe- 
cies in  its  naiive  home,  but  its  flowers  appear  so  late, 
that  it  is  of  little  value  in  our  gardens. 

D.  Juarezii  (Cactus  Dahlia).  —  This  has  generally 
been  regarded  a  species,  but  it  is  really  a  garden  variety, 
which  originated  in  Mexico.  It  is  one  of  the  most  showy 
and  free-flowering  of  the  tribe.  Of  this  type  there  are 
several  named  varieties,  one  of  which  is  pure  white,  and 
all  are  distinct  and  very  desirable. 

D.  Mercki.  —  A  small-flowered  species,  with  white 
and  yellow  or  lilac  and  yellow  flowers. 

D.  variabilis  (Variable).  —  This  is  supposed  to  be 
one  of  the  species  first  introduced,  and  parent  of  most 
of  the  garden  varieties. 

DATTBENYA. 

A  small  genus  of  very  pretty  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
bulbs  requiring  greenhouse  culture,  but  needing  so 
much  room  for  successful  development  that  their  culture 
is  aot  desirable. 


86  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

DAY  FLOWER. 

See  Commelyna,  Page  61. 

DOG'S   TOOTH  VIOLET. 
See  Erythronium,  Page  88. 

DRAGON  PLANT. 
See  Aris86ma  and  Arum,  Pages  31  to  33. 
DRIMIA. 

A  small  genus  of  uninteresting  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
bulbs  formerly  included  in  the  genus  Lachenalia.  The 
flowers  are  small  and  not  conspicuous.  This  genus  is 
only  mentioned,  like  many  others,  to  caution  amateurs 
against  its  cultivation. 

DUTCH  BULBS,  OR  HOLLAND  BULBS. 

This  term  is  applied  by  the  trade,  to  such  bulbs  as 
are  largely  grown  in  Holland,  and  includes  Hyacinths, 
Tulips,  Crocus,  Crown  Imperials  and  Narcissus,  all  but 
the  latter  being  grown  almost  exclusively  in  that  country. 

ELISENA. 

This  genus  contains  but  one  cultivated  species,  E. 
longipetala,  a  native  of  Peru,  and  allied  to  Pancratium. 
The  flowers  are  borne  in  clusters  on  a  slender  scape 
nearly  three  feet  in  height,  and  closely  resemble  those  of 
the  Ismene.  Its  pure  white,  delicately  formed  flowers, 
have  a  pleasing  fragrance,  and  are  worth  all  it  costs  to 
produce  them.  They  require  greenhouse  treatment,  to 
be  kept  very  wet  when  in  active  growth,  and  perfectly 
dry  when  at  rest. 

ERANTHIS. 

Winter  Aconite. 

A  small  genus  of  tuberous-rooted,  hardy  herbaceous 
plants,  natives  of  Italy  and  Siberia. 


ERANTHIS — ER1NOSMA. 


87 


E.  hyemalis. — The  only  cultivated  species.  It 
has  a  pretty  little  yellow  flower,  valuable  for  its  early 
blooming,  and  contrasting  well  with  the  Snowdrop,  its 
only  companion  in  earliness,  excepting,  possibly,  the 
Sdlla  siberica,  which  appears  before  the  others  are 
entirely  passed.  The  yellow,  white  and  blue  flowers  of 


ERAXTHIS  HYEMALIS. 


the  three  genera,  all  delicate  and  low  growing,  form, 
when  planted  in  close  contact,  in  early  spring  a  cheering 
mass  of  bloom.  The  Eranthis  grows  about  three  inches 
high,  producing  solitary  terminal  flowers.  The  tubers 
soon  lose  their  vitality  when  out  of  the  ground ;  they 
increase  rapidly,  and  require  but  little  attention  after 
once  planting. 


EEINOSMA. 


See  Leucoium. 


88  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

EEIOSPEEMUM. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope  bulbs,  produc- 
ing their  flowers  before  the  leaves ;  they  have  neither 
beauty  nor  interest  enough  to  warrant  their  cultivation. 

ERYTHKONIUM. 

Dog's  Tooth  Violet. 

A  small  genus  of  very  beautiful  liliaceous  plants, 
found  throughout  temperate  North  America.  One  spe- 
cies is  common  in  Europe.  Why  it  should  be  called  a 
violet,  to  which  it  has  not  the  slightest  resemblance,  is 
one  of  the  mysteries  that  surround  plant  nomenclature. 
Although  they  are  native  plants,  they  do  not  thrive  well 
when  taken  from  their  wild  homes  in  the  moist  woods. 
They  will,  however,  succeed  well,  if  planted  in  moist 
soil  in  partial  shade,  but  they  must  have  that  protection 
which  nature  affords  them,  a  covering  of  leaves  in 
autumn  ;  this  protects  against  cold  in  winter  and  drouth 
in  summer,  both  of  which  they  resent.  The  species  are  : 

E.  dens-canis  (Dog's  Tooth  Violet). — This  species 
is  common  in  the  South  of  Europe,  and  is  perfectly 
hardy  in  English  gardens,  but  needs  protection  in  Amer- 
ica. The  flowers  are  variable,  from  white  to  deep  pur- 
ple. When  once  planted,  the  bulbs  should  never  be 
removed,  unless  absolutely  necessary ;  and  when  they 
are  taken  up,  they  should  be  replanted  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble, as,  if  suffered  to  dry,  they  shrivel  up  and  soon 
decay.  The  flowers  appear  in  May,  and  contrast  finely 
with  their  beautifully  variegated  foliage.  Propagation 
is  effected  by  offsets. 

E.  americanum  (Yellow  Adder's  Tongue). — This 
is  the  well-known  species  of  our  woods ;  flowers  droop- 
ing, brown  outside,  bright  yellow  within  ;  there  seems 
to  be  several  varieties,  with  larger  or  smaller  flowers,  all 
of  the  same  general  character,  the  difference  probably 
being  caused  by  the  locality  in  which  they  grow ;  their 
foliage  is  beautifully  spotted. 


EUCHAKIS.  89 

E.  albidum  (White  Dog's  Tooth  Violet).— A  rare 
species  occasionally  met  in  Iowa  and  Southward;  its 
flowers  are  white,  or  nearly  so,  and  the  foliage  is  plain, 
free  from  the  markings  that  distinguish  most  of  the  spe- 
cies. A  variety  of  this  has  been  discovered  at  Lake 
Superior,  with  yellow  flowers. 

E.  grandiflorum. — A  species  occasionally  met  in 
the  Northwestern  States,  and  in  its  glory  in  the  North- 
ern Eocky  ^fountains.  It  has  larger  flowers  than  E. 
americanum,  but  does  not  differ  materially,  from  a  flor- 
ists' standpoint,  in  other  respects. 

EUCHARIS. 

This  genus  is  of  recent  cultivation,  having  been 
introduced  from  New  Grenada  in  1851,  where  the  species 
are  found  growing  in  the  marshes  in  tropical  luxuriance. 
The  flowers  are  remarkable  for  their  purity,  beauty  and 
delightful  fragrance.  As  flowers  for  florists'  use,  or  for 
greenhouse  decoration,  they  have  no  equals  in  the  list  of 
bulbs.  All  the  species  require  the  humid  atmosphere  of 
the  hothouse,  the  ordinary  temperature  of  the  greenhouse 
being  too  low  for  their  perfect  development.  The  flow- 
ers are  produced  in  trusses  of  from  four  to  ten,  accord- 
ing to  the  strength  of  the  bulb  and  the  conditions  of 
growth.  The  impression  that  generally  prevailed  soon 
after  their  introduction,  that  they  were  difficult  subjects 
to  manage,  was  soon  dispelled,  and  their  culture  became 
not  only  common,  but  very  profitable,  until  the  Eucharis 
insect  made  its  appearance,  since  which  time  most  grow- 
ers have  become  so  discouraged,  by  repeated  failures, 
that  they  have  abandoned  their  cultivation.  But  for  the 
ravages  of  this  pest  the  cultivation  of  the  Eucharis  would 
be  attended  with  as  little  difficulty  as  that  of  almost  any 
popular  plant.  In  fact,  but  few  subjects  are  more  easily 
managed,  water  and  heat  being  their  chief  requisites. 
Unlike  many  other  plants,  they  enjoy  massing,  and  to 


90  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLAN:,.j. 

grow  them  to  the  greatest  perfection  they  should  be  car- 
ried on  from  single  bulbs,  without  division,  until  they 
fill  tubs  three  feet  in  diameter.  With  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  these  a  succession  of  bloom  can  be  obtained  nearly 
the  whole  season.  The  bulbs  need  but  little  rest,  and 
this  can  be  so  regulated,  by  the  withholding  of  heat  and 
moisture,  as  to  keep  up  the  succession.  Potting  may  be 
done  at  any  time,  care  being  necessary  so  as  not  to  injure 
the  roots.  The  soil  which  best  suits  them  is  a  good 
strong  loam,  with  plenty  of  coarse  sand,  and  made  very 
rich  with  thoroughly  rotted  manure ;  that  from  the  cow- 
stable  being  preferable.  While  in  a  growing  state  water 
cannot  be  too  freely  applied,  when  sufficient  drainage 
has  been  provided.  Liquid  manure  should  be  given,  at 
least,  twice  a  week,  and  the  plants  syringed  twice  a  day 
to  keep  off  thrip  and  red  spiders.  The  temperature  of 
the  house  should  not  fall  below  70°  during  winter,  and 
during  that  season  give  them  all  the  sunshine  possible. 
To  secure  flowers  in  the  winter  months  water  sparingly 
from  August  to  October. 

E.  amazonica. — The  type.  The  variety,  grandi- 
flora,  is  the  larger,  and  b;y  far  the  most  desirable. 

E.  Candida. — A  smaller  flowered  species;  flowers 
from  three  to  six  in  an  umbel,  produced  on  spikes  about 
two  feet  high  ;  leaves  solitary  on  each  bulb. 

E.  Sanderiana. — This  differs  from  E.  grandiflora 
in  the  filaments  and  inside  of  the  tube  being  yellow. 
In  all  other  respects  and  in  general  habit  it  is  like  the 
species  referred  to. 

EUCOMIS. 

A  small  genus  of  coarse-growing  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
bulbs,  the  only  merit  of  which  is  the  pleasant  fragrance 
of  their  flowers. 

E.  bifolia. — The  best  known  of  the  species  has  but 
two  leaves,  which  lay  flat  upon  the  ground  j  flowers  are 
greenish,  produced  on  short  racemes. 


PBEESIA. 


90a 


FREESIA  BEFRACTA  ALBA. 


906  BULBS   AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED    PLANTS. 

FREESIA. 

The  Freesia  bulb  is  very  easily  managed,  but  it 
admits  of  but  one  condition  of  growth.  That  is  in  a 
cool  greenhouse,  and  without  any  attempt  afc  forcing. 
The  bulbs  may  be  planted  at  any  time  from  August  to 
October ;  after  that  they  begin  to  dry  up  and  lose  their 
vitality.  They  can  be  grown  in  boxes  or  pots;  if  in 
'boxes  they  should  not  be  less  than  four  inches  deep,  five 
would  be  better,  as  they  root  and  form  new  bulbs  deeply. 
Although  the  bulbs  are  small,  they  succeed  best  when 
allowed  considerable  room.  The  first  size  should  be 
placed  two  inches  apart  each  way,  and  covered  with  one 
inch  of  soil.  If  in  pots,  put  from  five  to  seven  bulbs  in 
a  six-inch  pot.  Press  the  soil  firmly  over  them,  and  put 
the  pots  or  boxes  under  the  bench,  giving  them  only  suf- 
ficient water  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  but  not  wet.  Let 
them  remain  until  the  tops  appear  above  the  surface, 
then  remove  to  the  bench  where  they  are  to  grow.  It  is 
best  to  grow  in  pots,  because,  in  case  of  vigorous  growth, 
the  pots  can  be  placed  so  as  to  give  the  plants  the  re- ' 
quired  room.  The  temperature  of  the  honso  should  not, 
at  any  time,  rise  above  70°  F.,  arid  good  ventilation 
should  be  secured.  Never  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry. 
After  flowering  they  should  be  given  more  heat,  to  ripeii 
the  bulbs.  The  too  common  practice  of  putting  the 
plants  under  the  bench  to  ripen  off  is  not  a  good  one,  as 
the  bulbs  produced  will  be  small  and  weak.  In  common 
with  all  other  bulbs,  the  preparation  for  next  year's 
flowers  are  completed  this;  it  is,  therefore,  important  to 
give  the  bulbs  every  possible  help,  not  only  to  develop 
size,  but  blooming  qualities.  The  species  are  F.  refracta, 
yellow,  with  the  pure  -white  variety,  alba,  and  F.  Leiclit* 
linii,  cream  with  orange  throat,  which  has  been  classed  a 
species,  the  two  forming  the  genus.  All  tho  ep^cies  are 
fragrant,  but  the  florist  grows  only  F.  refract  a  alba. 


EUCROSIA — EURYCLES — FERRARIA.  91 

EUCROSIA. 

The  only  species  is  E.  bicolor,  which  is  a  very  showy 
bulb  from  the  Peruvian  Andes.  The  flowers  are  bright 
vermilion,  with  a  purplish  stripe  on  the  outside  of  the 
petals,  produced  in  terminal  clusters  on  the  slender 
scapes  about  a  foot  high.  They  should  be  grown  in  a 
warm  greenhouse,  where  they  produce  their  flowers  in 
summer.  In  winter  they  require  perfect  rest;  in  all 
respects  tre£t  the  same  as  the  Amaryllis  or  the  Hippe- 
astrum,  to  which  natural  order  they  belong. 

EURYCLES. 

A  small  genus  of  bulbs,  natives  of  Australia,  and 
allied  to  Pancratium.  This  plant  will  succeed  only 
with  hothouse  treatment.  The  flowers  are  white,  and 
produced  in  compact  umbels  in  May.  The  length  of 
time  they  occupy  space  in  the  hothouse,  and  the  care 
required,  is  not  remunerated  by  their  flowers. 

EVENING  FLOWER. 

See  Hesperantha,  Page  137. 

FEATHERED  HYACINTH. 
See  Muscari. 

FERRARIA. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  bulbs,  valued  more  highly 
for  their  singular  appearance  than  for  their  real  beauty. 
They  are  of  the  easiest  culture,  flowering  freely  in  pots 
in  the  greenhouse  in  April.  The  bulbs  are  small.  From 
four  to  six  can  be  put  into  a  six-inch  pot  in  autumn,  and 
they  will  commence  to  grow  in  February,  when  they 
require  plenty  of  air,  sunlight  and  water.  Soon  after 
flowering  the  foliage  dies  down,  when  the  pots  should 
be  put  away  in  a  dry  place  and  remain  until  the  time  for 
growth  to  again  commence.  They  can  then  be  repotted, 
or  grown  on  in  the  same  pots,  and  continued  on  as  long 


92  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-HOOTED   PLANTS. 

as  they  flower  well.  They  succeed  well  in  a  cold  frame, 
but  must  be  protected  against  frost  and  water  during 
winter.  They  are  increased  rapidly  by  offsets. 

F.  Ferrariola  (F.  anther osa). — Flowers  green  and 
brown. 

F.  uncinata. — A  curious  species;  flowers  green, 
with  a  bright  blue  mark  in  the  center. 

F.  atrata. — Very  brilliant  purple  flowers. 

F.  divaricata. — Mowers  purple  and  green. 

F.  obtusifolia. — This  is  entirely  distinct  from  the 
other  species  by  the  remarkable  color  of  its  flowers,  and 
its  potato-like  root.  It  grows  about  eighteen  inches 
high,  and  branches  in  the  form  of  a  bush.  It  flowers  in 
June  and  July,  and  the  bulbs  may  be  taken  up  in  the 
autumn  and  kept  during  winter  like  those  of  the 
Tigridia,  and  planted  out  again  in  early  spring.  This 
species  is  deserving  of  cultivation,  from  the  great  beauty 
and  profusion  of  its  flowers. 

FLAG  FLOWER. 

A  popular  name  of  the  Iris. 

FLAME  LILY. 
See  Pyrolirion. 

FLEUE  DE  LIS  AND  FLOWER  DE  LUCE. 
See  Iris. 

FRENCH  TULIP. 
The  popular  name  of  Tulipa  sylvestris. 

FRITILLARIA. 

Guinea-hen  Floiver.     Checkered  Lily. 
All   of  the   Fritillarias  have  drooping  bell-shaped 
flowers,  with  honey  drops  in  the  cavity  of  each  petal. 
This  nectar  is  particularly  abundant  in  the  Crown  Im- 
perial, so  much  so  as  to  drop  if  the  flowers  are  shaken. 


FEITILLABIA. 


CBOWX    IMPERIAL. 


94  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAKTS. 

All  the  species  are  desirable  border  plants,  as  they  are 
among  the  earliest  of  spring  flowers,  and  remarkably 
showy.  Most  of  the  species  are  rich  in  spots  or  mark- 
ings ;  some  are  checked  in  the  manner  and  as  regular  as 
the  chess-board.  All  are  of  the  easiest  culture,  and 
require  only  to  be  planted  in  any  good  soil  moderately 
rich  and  made  light.  While  they  are  included  in  our 
list  of  hardy  bulbs,  and  are  hardy  in  the  general  accepta- 
tion of  the  term,  they  are  greatly  benefited  by  a  liberal 
mulching  of  leaves  during  winter,  quite  as  much  to  pro- 
tect against  alternate  freezing  and  thawing,  as  against 
cold.  The  bulbs  do  not  require  frequent  changing,  but 
can  remain  a  number  of  years  after  planting  without 
removal.  As  they  soon  die  down  after  flowering,  annu- 
als or  bedding  plants  can  be  planted  in  the  same  bed, 
thus  keeping  up  a  succession  of  flowers,  without  injury, 
in  fact,  with  benefit  to  the  bulb.  There  are  many  spe- 
cies and  varieties. 

F.  Meleagris. — This  is  the  well-known  Guinea-hen 
flower,  a  native  of  England,  growing  naturally  in  moist 
meadows  or  near  rivers,  and  does  not  attain  its  full  ^ize 
if  grown  in  dry  soil.  There  are  several  varieties,  differ- 
ing only  in  the  color  of  the  flowers,  which  are  variable 
from  purple  to  nearly  white.  The  bulb  is  small,  white 
and  flat,  each  bulb  producing  but  a  single  flower. 

F.  imperialis  (The  Crown  Imperial).  This  spe- 
cies is  a  native  of  Persia,  and  was  introduced  into  Eng- 
land previous  to  1596,  as  Gerard  mentions  it  in  his 
Herbal  of  that  date,  praising  it  on  account  of  "its  stately 
beautifulness,"  and  accords  it  "the  first  place  in  the 
garden  of  delight."  This  is  the  least  cultivated,  and, 
perhaps,  the  least  known  or  popular  of  all  the  bulbs,  yet 
it  is  one  of  the  most  noble  of  spring-flowering  species, 
and  should  be  found  in  every  collection,  no  matter  how 
small.  It  usually  attains  a  height  of  from  two  to  three 
feet,  bearing  an  umbel  of  bell-shaped  flowers,  red  or 


GAGEA— GALAKTSUS.  95 

yellow,  of  both  single  and  double  forms,  on  the  top  of  a 
naked  flower-stem,  and  over  them  is  a  crown  of  leaves, 
making  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  objects  in  the  gar- 
den. The  flowers  precede  those  of  the  hyacinth,  which 
adds  to  their  many  attractions  (See  Engraving,  Page  93). 
While  all  the  species  are  objects  of  interest  in  the  garden, 
those  described  above  fully  represent  the  genus. 

GAGEA. 

A  considerable  genus  of  half-hardy  bulbs,  allied  to 
the  Tulip.  The  flowers  are  yellow,  produced  in  umbels 
on  short  stems,  and  appear  about  the  same  time  as  th,e 
Crocus.  They  are,  practically,  of  no  use  in  this  country, 
not  being  sufficiently  hardy  for  open  air  culture,  and  not 
worthy  a  place  in  the  greenhouse. 

GALAXTHUS. 

Snowdrop. 

These  elegant  little  flowers,  the  first  to  open  in 
spring,  should  be  found  in  every  garden,  not  only 
because  they  are  the  earliest  spring  flower,  but  because 
they  are  the  loveliest.  It  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to 
have  Snowdrops  in  flower  in  February,  at  least  two  weeks 
ahead  of  the  Crocus,  particularly  if  planted  in  some 
well-protected  sunny  border,  a  place  where  they  should 
always  be  found.  The  Snowdrop  thrives  in  almost  any 
situation  or  soil ;  it  will  live  and  bloom  anywhere,  sur- 
viving more  hard  treatment  than  any  other  plant, 
excepting  grass,  yet  there  are  but  few  flowers  that  more 
highly  appreciate  good  care  and  culture.  The  bulbs 
should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  autumn  as  they  can  be 
secured,  as  they  suffer  much  if  left  long  out  of  ground. 
They  should  be  planted  in  small  clumps  and  left  to  C;TO 
for  themselves,  which  they  will  do,  whether  planted  in 
sun  or  shade,  under  the  trees  or  in  the  grass;  in  fact, 
where  anything  wiU  grow  the  Snowdrop  will  thrive.  By 


96  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

planting  in  different  exposures,  a  succession  may  be  had 
from  February  to  May0  It  is,  however,  for  early  flowers 
that  they  are  planted ;  they  tell  us  when  spring  is  com- 
ing, and  that  more  showy  forms  are  soon  to  follow. 
The  few  species  that  make  up  this  genus  are  : 


SNOWDROP — SNOWFLAKE. 


G.  nivalis. — The  single  form  is  the  common  Snow- 
drop, a  native  of  England,  where  it  is  found  in  woods 
and  shady  dells  ;  the  double  form  is  a  garden  variety  of 
this  species,  and  is  usually  smaller  than  the  wild  single 
plant. 


GALAXIA — GALTONIA.  97 

G.  plicatus  (Folded,  or  Russian  Snowdrop).— The 
bulb  of  this  species  is  much  larger  than  that  of  the  com- 
mon Snowdrop,  but  the  flower  is  smaller,  and  the  petals 
forming  the  inner  part  are  of  a  deep  green.  The  leaves 
are  broader  than  of  the  common  kind,  and  they  are 
curiously  folded  at  the  edges,  whence  the  specific  name, 
which  signifies  plaited  or  folded. 

G.  Elwesii. — A  large-flowered  form  similar  to  the 
preceding  ;*  the  leaves  are  twisted,  instead  of  being 
folded.  It  was  introduced  from  Asia  Minor  in  1875, 
and  is  regarded  as  the  finest  of  the  genus. 

GALAXIA. 

A  small  genus  of  very  pretty  greenhouse  bulbs, 
natives  of  Southern  Africa ;  generally  with  large,  showy 
yellow  flowers.  They  can  be  successfully  grown  in  a 
cold  frame,  if  secure  from  frost,  flowering  in  midsum- 
mer. They  flower  freely  in  the  cool  greenhouse,  but  are 
not  of  sufficient  vaftie  to  entitle  them  to  the  room  and 
care  required.  They  are  produced  freely  from  offsets. 
They  may  be  treated  like  the  Gladiolus,  but  the  bulbs 
must  be  kept  cool  and  dark,  and  free  from  frost. 

GALTONIA. 

[Hyacinthus  candicans.} 

G.  candicans,  the  only  species,  a  native  of  South 
Africa,  is  one  of  our  most  ornamental  border  plants,  grow- 
ing from  four  to  six  feet  high,  bearing  from  twenty  to 
one  hundred  large  bell-shaped  flowers  of  a  creamy  white 
color,  on  drooping  foot  stalks.  While  it  is  quite  as 
hardy  as  any  of  the  species,  and  is  of  perennial  habit,  it 
should  never  be  treated  as  such  if  its  capabilities  are  to 
be  fully  brought  out.  It  needs  to  be  grown  from  seed, 
which  grow  readily  when  sown  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  seeds  of  the  most  common  garden  vegetables.  In 
light,  rich  soil,  flowering  bulbs  will  be  made  the  first 
7 


OS  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

year;  take  up  and  store  the  same  as  Gladiolus;  plant 
out  the  following  spring,  and  by  the  first  of  August  the 
flower  stalks  will  appear ;  these  should  be  immediately 
cut  off,  at  least  from  a  portion  of  the  bulbs,  as  soon  as 
they  appear,  in  order  to  throw  the  whole  strength  of  the 
plant  into  the  bulb  for  the  next  season's  flowering.  The 
second  year  from  seed  sowing  its  greatest  perfection  is 
attained,  and  spikes  such  as  we  have  described  will  be 
the  rule.  After  once  flowering  dig  up  and  throw  away, 
as  they  will  never  after  produce  flowers  worthy  the  name. 
It  is  not  worth  while  for  the  owners  of  small  gardens  to 
grow  their  own  bulbs,  because  of  their  cheapness,  but 
they  should  always  plant  such  as  have  been  produced  in 
the  manner  described.  "Well  grown  bulbs  will  be  from 
two  to  three  inches  in  diameter. 

GANYMEDES,  OR  RUSH  DAFFODIL. 

See  Narcissus  triandrus. 

GARLIC. 

See  Allium.     Page  9. 

GASTRONEMA. 

See  Cyrtanthus.     Page  76. 

GEISSORHIZA. 
Tile-Root. 

A  considerable  genus  of  beautiful  little  bulbous 
plants,  which  were  formerly  considered  to  belong  to 
Ixia.  They  are  all  remarkable  for  their  bulbo-tubers, 
or  rhizomes,  which  resemble  fleshy  stems,  and  are  cov- 
ered with  several  skins,  or  coatings,  which  lie  over  each 
other,  like  scales,  orthe  tiles  of  a  house,  beginning  from 
below.  It  is  from  this  peculiarity  that  the  plants  take 
their  English  name  of  Tile-root.  They  have  but  four 


§9 


leaves,  all  of  which  spring  from  the  root,  and  are  narrow 
and  bristly.  The  stems  are  simple,  or  branched,  pro- 
ducing one  or  two  flowers  each,  resembling  the  Ixia. 
The  bulbs  are  all  small,  some  not  larger  than  peas,  and 
are,  in  all  respects,  to  be  managed  like  the  Ixias.  They 
make  beautiful  pot  plants,  or  can  be  successfully  grown 
in  cold  frames,  in  very  sandy  soil,  and  where  water  will 
not  stand  over  them.  They  are  as  impatient  of  moisture 
as  of  cold  ;  ih  fact,  they  will  not  endure  either.  They 
are  natives  of  Abyssinia  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
The  species  commonly  met  are  : 

G.  excisa.  —  A  small  growing  species,  formerly 
known  as  Ixia  excisa.  Flowers  white,  lined  with  pink, 
and  with  a  green  center;  they  will  only  open  in  full 
sunshine. 

G.  obtusa0  —  A  stronger  growing  species,  with  straw 
or  buff-colored  flowers. 

G.  Rochensis.  —  One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
genus,  and  formerly  called  Plaid  Ixia.  The  bulbs 
are  very  small,  and  will  not  remain  long  in  a  dry 
state  without  injury.  The  flowers  are  quite  brilliant, 
the  colors  being  blue,  white  and  crimson. 

G.  obtusata.  —  An  elegant  species,  from  the  abund- 
ance and  size  of  the  flowers,  generally  producing  six  or 
eight  rich  cream-colored  flowers,  streaked  with  pink  on 
the  outside.  They  are  without  fragrance. 

G.  secunda.  —  Of  this  species  there  are  two  varie- 
ties, one  with  blue,  the  other  with  white  flowers.  They 
flower  early,  and  can  only  be  successfully  grown  in  the 
greenhouse. 

G.  vaginata.  —  The  most  showy  and  useful  of  the 
species.  The  flowers  appear  in  August  and  can  be  grown 
in  a  dry  border,  with  a  protection  of  leaves  during  win- 
ter. They  are  yellow,  tipped  with  dark  purple  or  black. 
The  remaining  species  are  rarely  met,  excepting  in 
botanical  collections. 


100  BULBS  AHB   TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

GESNERA. 

The  Gesnera  has  long  been  classed  with  greenhouse 
bulbous  plants.  The  species  form  a  varied  and  most 
interesting  class,  which  can  only  be  grown  in  the  green- 
house or  stove-house.  They  are  all  natives  of  South 
America  and  Mexico,  and  -are  quite  as  remarkable  for 
the  bearBty^pftheir  foliage,  which  is  singularly  marked 
and  has  aveTvet-like  appearance,  as  for  their  flowers. 
The  brilliant,  mostly  scarlet  and  yellow  flowers,  are  pro- 
duced on  long  branching  stalks.  To  grow  them  success- 
fully they  must  have  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture,  but 
in  watering  avoid  wetting  the  leaves.  They  are  easily 
managed,  so  far  as  their  period  of  bloom  is  concerned. 
By  applying  or  withholding  water,  after  a  period  of  rest, 
a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  kept  up  with  a  few  plants 
the  entire  season. 

Propagation  is  readily  effected  by  cuttings  of  young 
shoots,  or  by  leaf  cuttings  if  the  leaf  be  taken  off  with  a 
bud  at  its  base,  or  by  division  of  the  tubers,  which 
should  be  made  when  starting  into  growth.  They  are 
also  easily  grown  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in 
pans  of  sphagnum,  made  very  fine  and  mixed  with  clean 
sand,  as  soon  as  ripe.  The  pans  should  be  covered  with 
glass  to  avoid  evaporation,  and  placed  in  a  warm  house. 
As  soon  as  the  second  pair  of  leaves  is  formed  prick 
out  into  thumb  pots  and  grow  on  in  a  humid  atmos- 
phere. The  plants  will  show  when  they  need  rest,  by 
the  drooping  and  drying  up  of  their  foliage ;  then  grad- 
ually withhold  water  until  the  tops  die  down,  after 
which  put  them  away  in  a  dry,  warm  place,  until  their 
period  of  growth  again  arrives,  which  they  will  show  by 
their  starting ;  then  repot,  and  divide  if  desirable. 
There  are  upwards  of  fifty  species,  all  desirable. 

GETHYLLIS. 

The  most  diminutive  genus  of  the  Amaryllidacece. 
The  species  are  little  bulbs  from  the  Cape  of  Good 


GLADIOLUS.  U»J: 

Hope,  and  are  easily  grown  in  the  greenhouse  in 
light  open  soil.  The  flowers  are  small,  pure  white,  quite 
fragrant,  and  produced  on  stalks  that  do  not  exceed  six 
inches  in  height.  They  are  quite  rapidly  increased  by 
offsets.  These  should  be  separated  from  the  parent  bulb 
at  any  time  during  winter,  wrhen  it  is  at  rest. 

G.  spiralis. — A  pretty  plant,  with  singularly 
twisted  foliage. 

G.  afr^. — Botanically  this  is  a  curious  plant,  having 
twelve  fertile  stamens,  while  all  others  of  this  natural 
order  have  but  six.  The  flowers  are  very  fragrant,  and  are 
succeeded  by  transparent  yellow  berries  of  a  pleasant 
odor,  and  said  to  be  edible. 

GLADIOLUS. 

Although  the  Gladiolus  has  not  the  poetic  and  his- 
toric associations  that  distinguish  the  Lily,  it  is,  never- 
theless, more  remarkable  in  many  respects.  It  is  better 
adapted  for  general  cultivation  than  the  Lily,  or  any 
other  of  the  many  rare  and  beautiful  kinds  of  bulbs. 
Between  the  Gladiolus  and  the  Lily  there  is  a  strange 
contrast.  Of  all  the  forms  of  the  Gladiolus  under  culti- 
vation, embracing,  as  they  do,  some  of  the  grandest  and 
most  beautiful,  as  well  as  the  most  showy  of  floral  forms, 
rarely  do  we  see  the  original  species,  all  the  varieties 
that  claim  our  attention  being  hybrid  forms,  or  their 
descendants,  wonderfully  changed  by  cross-fertilization. 
So  great  have  been  these  changes,  that  the  original  forms 
are  entirely  changed  arid  greatly  surpassed  in  the  beauty 
of  the  flowers,  as  regards  size,  form,  color  and  markings. 
On  the  other  hand,  in  the  creation  of  the  Lily,  nature  so 
perfected  her  work  that  any  improvement  on  the  species 
has  not  come  within  the  possibilities  of  human  effort. 

From  the  standpoint  of  classification  the  Gladiolus 
has  not  been  improved  by  the  changes  consequent  upon 
hybridization.  Some  systematic  botanists  regard  the 


102  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


.a. 


TTPES  OF    GLADIOLUS. 


GLADIOLUS.  103 

florists'  work  as  an  unwarrantable  interference  with 
nature's  plans ;  consequently  all  changes  of  forms  are 
regarded  as  monstrosities.  But  flowers  are  grown  for 
the  gratification  of  the  eye,  to  satisfy  the  thirst  for  the 
beautiful,  and  in  that  sense  they  are  useful,  whether  in 
a  natural  or  developed  form.  Victor  Hugo  said  :  "The 
beautiful  is  as  useful  as  the  useful,  perhaps  more  so." 
Therefore,  whoever  adds  to  the  beauty  of  a  floral  form, 
which  he^cannot  do  without  the  assistance  of  nature, 
adds  to  the  highest  and  purest  pleasures  of  life.  In  this 
selection  the  Gladiolus  has  furnished  a  wide  and  inter- 
esting field  for  experiment. 

The  Gladiolus  is  one  of  the  most  important  genera 
in  the  natural  order,  Iridacece,  to  which  it  belongs. 
The  genus  contains  about  ninety  species,  nearly  all  of 
which  are  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  spe- 
cies are  remarkable  for  ease  of  culture,  grace  of  habit, 
beautiful  forms,  and  intensity  of  colors,  ranging  from 
the  most  vivid  scarlet  to  pure  white,  from  clear  rose  to 
pure  yellow,  and  bright  purple ;  in  many  of  the  species 
the  colors  are  happily  and  singularly  blended.  The 
habits  of  the  species  are  as  varied  as  their  colors,  some 
delicate  and  light,  others  strong  and  robust,  with  con- 
stitutions adapted  to  almost  any  climate  that  will  sus- 
tain vegetation.  The  remarkable  hybrids  have  taken 
the  places  of  the  original  species,  once  so  prominent  in 
our  gardens,  and  now  the  latter  are  rarely  met  except 
in  botanical  collections.  This  is  a  mistake,  for  many  of 
the  species  are  well  worth  growing  for  the  sake  of  vari- 
ety, not  less  than  for  their  intrinsic  beauty.  The  more 
prominent  we  shall  notice  as  they  deserve,  in  this  place, 
briefly  referring  to  other  species  later  on.  The  Gladi- 
olus (Little  Sword)  derives  its  name  from  its  sword- 
shaped  leaves. 

G.  communis  (Corn  Flag). — This  species  is  found 
pretty  generallj  distributed  throughout  the  South  of 


104  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-HOOTED  PLANTS. 

Europe ;  of  this  there  are  three  varieties,  white,  rose 
and  purple,  all  of  the  same  general  habit.  They  are 
dwarf,  rarely  exceeding  two  feet  in  height.  These  are 
incorrectly  classed  among  our  hardy  bulbs.  Occasionally 
they  will  withstand  the  rigors  of  our  winters,  if  in  a 
sheltered  situation.  In  such  cases,  if  protected  by  a 
light  mulching  of  leaves,  they  will  flower  very  freely  in 
June,  a  season  when  choice  flowers  are  in  great  demand. 
The  bulbs — corms,  more  correctly  speaking — should  be 
planted  in  autumn,  and  need  not  be  disturbed  or  re- 
planted for  a  number  of  years.  A  few  clumps  of  each  color 
in  the  herbaceous  border  produce  a  most  pleasing  effect. 

G.  byzantinus. — A  native  of  Turkey.  The  most 
hardy  of  any  of  the  species,  and  particularly  desirable 
for  the  border,  as  it  is  free-flowering.  When  once 
planted,  it  may  remain  undisturbed,  like  the  Narcissus, 
for  many  years,  as  it  produces  so  few  offsets  that  it 
requires  a  long  time  to  become  troublesome  from  crowd- 
ing. This  and  the  foregoing  species  dislike  shade,  and 
require  an  airy  as  well  as  a  sunny  situation,  for  a  perfect 
development  of  flowers.  It  grows  about  two  feet  high, 
and  the  spike  is  well  filled  with  purplish-red  flowers. 

G.  ramosus  (Branching). — Unquestionably  the 
finest  species  of  the  genus.  In  the  size  and  beauty  of 
its  flowers  it  yields  the  palm  to  none,  and  on  account  of 
its  peculiarly  branching  habit,  it  may  be  considered  the 
most  ornamental.  In  favorable  situations  the  flower- 
stems  will  grow  five  feet  high,  and  produce  a  succession 
of  flowers  from  June  until  August.  The  flowers  are 
very  large,  well  opened,  and  of  good  shape.  The  type 
has  flowers  of  a  rosy-blush  color,  with  heavy  carmine 
stains  on  the  three  lower  divisions.  There  are  several 
distinct  varieties,  from  which  the  Dutch  florists  have 
produced,  by  cross-fertilization,  a  large  number  of  named 
sorts,  all  of  the  same  general  character  as  the  species. 
The  leaves  are  broad  and  heavy,  giving  the  plants  a  truly 


GLADIOLUS.  105 

magnificent  appearance.  This  class  of  Gladiolus  is  but 
little  known  or  grown,  from  the  fact  of  their  not  flower- 
ing well,  if  at  all,  when  planted  in  the  spring,  and  they 
are  not  hardy.  The  corms  should  be  planted  in  autumn, 
in  a  situation  where  water  will  not  remain  about  them, 
and  be  protected  against  frost,  either  by  a  cold  frame 
or  by  a  heavy  mulching=  It  is  difficult  to  make  the 
amateur,  or  even  the  professional  florist  understand 
this  precaution,  necessary  as  it  is  for  many,  if  not  all, 
bulbs.  The  gardener  seems  to  think  that  when  he  has 
planted  a  bulb  his  work  is  done,  when,  in  fact,  it  has  but 
just  commenced.  For  the  want  of  this  attention  no 
class  of  plants  suffers  more  than  the  so-called  hardy 
Gladiolus. 

The  object  of  this  book  being  to  assist  the  grower 
in  the  work  of  producing  flowers  of  such  species  as  are 
generally  grown  and  popularly  known,  we  shall  but 
briefly  notice  the  more  important  of  the  species,  some  of 
which  are  the  parents  of  the  hybrid  Gladiolus  so  gener- 
ally cultivated.  All  the  species  are  from  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  unless  otherwise  noted.  We  would  remark 
here,  that  all  Cape  of  Good  Hope  bulbs  will  thrive  under 
the  same  general  treatment.  They  are  half-hardy, 
impatient  of  moisture  when  at  rest,  as  their  season  of 
flowering  is  the  rainy  season  of  the  country,  and  their 
period  of  rest  during  excessive  drouth.  They  all  suc- 
ceed well  grown  in  a  cold  frame,  which  protects  against 
both  cold  and  moisture. 

G.  alatus  (Winged).  A  very  interesting  little 
plant ;  the  flowers  have  a  delightful  fragrance  not  unlike 
that  of  the  Sweet  Brier;  the  three  upper  petals  are 
bright  orange-scarlet,  the  three  lower  ones  are  yellowish, 
tipped  with  orange-scarlet.  The  bulbs  are  very  small, 
not  larger  than  ordinary  peas,  and  cannot  remain  long 
out  of  ground. 

G.  Algoensis  (Algoa  Bay  Hyacinth). — This  and 
the  last  are  allied  to  the  Viper  species,  and  have  the  same 


106  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

general  appearance  in  form  and  color.  It  is  a  native  of 
the  east  coast  of  South  Africa,  a  much  warmer  climate 
than  that  at  the  Cape,  yet  the  bulbs  are  more  nearly 
hardy  in  our  climate. 

G.  albidus  (White  Gladiolus). — This  is  the  nearest 
to  a  pure  white  flower  of  any  of  the  species,  having  no 
color  except  very  light  stains  on  the  backs  of  the  petals, 
before  they  expand.  It  is  a  low  growing  sort,  the  spikes 
furnishing  usually  but  three  flowers,  large  and  well 
opened.  It  is  rarely  seen  in  cultivation.  This  is  un- 
doubtedly one  of  the  parents  of  G.  Colvillei  alba  (The 
Bride). 

G.  angustus  (Narrow-leaved). — One  of  the  first 
species  introduced,  and  one  of  the  least  attractive.  The 
flowers  are  small,  of  a  dingy  white  color. 

G.  aphyllus  (Leafless). — A  curious  species,  its 
flowers  resembling  more  the  Lomaria  than  the  Gladiolus  ; 
are  produced  in  January  or  February.  It  can  only  be 
grown  in  the  greenhouse. 

G.  bland  us  (Fair).  A  yery  pretty  species  with  a 
strong  spike  of  white  flowers,  the  lower  petals  having  an 
oval  blotch  of  red.  The  flowers  are  alternately  arranged 
on  either  side  of  the  stem,  a  form  that  meets  with  but 
little  favor. 

G.  brevifolius  (Short-leaved). — A  greenhouse 
species^ -with  a  long  naked  spike  of  very  pretty  rosy- 
tinted  flowers. 

G.  campanulatus  (Bell-shaped). — A  very  pretty 
species,  but  its  name  is  a  misnomer,  as  its  flowers  are 
less  bell-shaped  than  most  of  the  species.  It  is  of  dwarf 
habit,  with  lilac  flowers,  the  lower  divisions  stained 
with  red. 

G.  cardinalis  (Scarlet,  or  Superb). — A  grand 
flower,  and  one  of  the  parents  of  many  of  our  richly 
colored  hybrids.  It  is  well  worthy  of  cultivation.  In 
favorable  situations  it  will  grow  more  than  four  feet 


GLADIOLUS.  107 

high,  the  stem  dividing  at  the  top  into  several  branches, 
each  bearing  from  six  to  eight  flowers,  on  one  side  of 
the  stem  only ;  color  a  bright  scarlet,  with  a  white 
diamond-shaped  blotch  on  each  petal.  It  will  rarely 
flower  if  the  bulbs  are  planted  in  the  spring. 

G.  carneus  (Flesh-colored). — An  extremely  hand- 
some species,  growing  about  three  feet  high,  with  broad, 
sword-shaped  leaves,  with  a  narrow  white  margin.  The 
flowers  ar&  large,  with  a  long  tube,  and  rather  narrow- 
pointed  petals ;  the  lower  three  divisions  have  a  brilliant 
carmine  diamond-shaped  spot  in  the  center  of  each. 
The  large  size  and  beautiful  color  of  the  flowers,  together 
with  the  great  abundance  in  which  they  are  produced, 
has  caused  it  to  be  largely  used  as  a  parent  of  many  of 
our  garden  varieties. 

G.  cochleatus  (Spoon-tipped). — A  curious  species 
with  white  flowers;  contrary  to  the  general  form,  the 
lower  divisions  are  nearly  double  the  size  of  the  upper, 
and  more  erect ;  color  white,  slightly  stained  with  red, 
and  a  compass-shaped  feathery  blotch.  It  can  be  flow- 
ered only  in  the  greenhouse. 

G.  Colvillei. — A  hybrid  form,  so  entirely  distinct 
from  what  are  designated  hybrids,  that  we  give  it  a  place 
with  the  species.  It  is  a  cross  between  G.  concolor  and 
G.  cardinality  the  latter  being  the  male  parent.  The 
flowers  are  of  a  beautiful  scarlet,  softening  into  a  purple 
margin,  and  have  a  delightful  fragrance.  This  hybrid 
has  the  constancy  of  the  species. 

G.  Colvillei  alba. — Popularly  known  as  "The 
Bride."  It  is  largely  grown  by  the  florists  for  decora- 
tive purposes,  as  well  as  for  all  purposes  where  white 
flowers  are  used.  It  grows  freely,  either  planted  out  on 
the  bench  or  in  pots.  The  bulbs  for  forcing  are  chiefly 
grown  in  Holland,  and  should  be  potted  immediately 
after  their  arrival.  .After  potting,  water  thoroughly, 
and  put  them  away  under  a  bench,  or  in  the  shed,  until 


108  BULBS    AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED    PLANTS. 

they  commence  to  grow,  then  bring  forward  into  a  mod- 
erately heated  house. 

G.  concolor  (One-colored). — This  is  a  desirable 
species,,  if  for  its  color  only,  which  is  of  a  clear  bright 
yellow.  It  has  from  two  to  eight  flowers  on  a  one-sided 
spike.  In  the  evening  it  emits  a  fragrance  like  the 
common  pink.  It  must  be  grown  in  a  frame,  as  its  sea- 
son of  flowering  will  not  permit  of  spring  planting,  and 
it  is  impatient  of  greenhouse  treatment. 

G.  cruentus  (Bloody). — Introduced  from  Natal 
in  1868,  and  is  but  little  known.  The  flowers  are  very 
large,  brilliant  scarlet,  yellowish-white  speckled  with 
red  at  the  base  of  the  limb,  or  borne  on  spikes  from  six 
to  ten  inches  long. 

G.  cuspidatus( Sharp-pointed) . — This  is  a  remark- 
able form  because  of  the  great  length  and  undulation  of 
the  petals.  The  cream-colored  flowers  are  produced  in 
May,  and  have  the  lower  petals  marked  with  a  bright 
yellow  spot  on  a  rich  purple  blotch. 

G.  c.  ventricosus  (Swelling). — A  variety  with 
reddish  drooping  flowers,  with  shorter  tube  and  less 
inflated  spathes  than  -the  type. 

G.  debilis  (Weak). — A  species  bearing  solitary 
flowers,  differing  from  most  others  of  the  genus,  as  all 
the  petals  are  uniform,  spreading  open  like  the  Ixias; 
the  flowers  are  white,  with  rose-colored  spots  on  the  two 
inner  sections. 

G.  dracocephalus  (Dragon's-head). — Introduced 
in  1871.  Flowers  yellow,  closely  striped  with  dull  red- 
purple,  about  two  inches  long  and  broad,  the  lower  sec- 
tions bright  green,  purple  spotted.  More  curious  than 
beautiful. 

G.  edulis  (Edible). — This  species  is  remarkable 
because  of  its  entire  want  of  beauty.  The  flowers  are 
white,  slightly  stained  with  pink  and  yellow,  and  so 
much  curled  that  they  have  a  withered  appearance  as 


GLADIOLUS.  109 

eoon  as  they  expand.  The  bulb  is  oblong,  firm  and 
white,  and  is  roasted  and  eaten  like  chestnuts  by  the 
natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

G.  fasciatus. — A  very  pretty  dwarf  species,  grow- 
ing from  six  to  twelve  inches  high.  The  flowers  are 
delicate  pink,  with  a  dark  crimson  streak  on  the  lower 
division.  A  winter  flowering  species. 

G.  floribundus(  Abundant-flowering) . — One  of  the 
few  species  worthy  of  general  cultivation,  as  it  compares 
favorably  with  many  of  the  hybrids  of  recent  introduc- 
tion, and  because  of  its  dwarf  and  free-flowering  habit. 
Its  flowers  are  produced  abundantly  on  each  side  of  the 
stem,  which  rarely  exceeds  a  foot  in  height;  they  are 
very  large,  standing  erect,  and  opening  widely  like  small 
Lilies;  color  white,  with  a  bright  pink  stripe  down  the 
center  of  each  petal.  They  succeed  admirably  in  the 
herbaceous  border,  with  but  slight  protection  in  winter. 

G.gandavensis. — Noticed  under  Hybrid  Gladiolus. 

G.  gracilis  (Slender). — A  hardy  form  with  fewer 
points  of  interest  than  almost  any  of  the  species.  It  is 
a  delicate  grower,  producing  from  one  to  three  pale  lilac 
flowers,  the  lower  petals  spotted  with  black. 

G.  hirsutus  (Hairy). — In  habit  this  is  a  variable 
species,  growing  from  one  to  three  feet  high,  as  the  soil 
and  situation  suit  it.  The  flowers  are  large,  rose  colored, 
and  all  produced  on  one  side  of  the  stem,  a  habit  not  at 
all  pleasing.  The  fragrance  is  not  unlike  that  of  the 
Hawthorn. 

G.  psittacinus  (Parrot).  (Syn.  G.  natal  crisis) . — 
Possessing  remarkable  interest  from  the  fact  of  its  being 
the  parent,  on  the  one  side,  of  the  well  known  G.  gan- 
davensis  kinds,  which  are  now  so  extensively  cultivated. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  southeast  coast  of  Africa,  near  Natal. 
In  common  with  the  other  species  from  that  section,  it 
is  more  hardy  than  the  Cape  species.  Its  flowers  are  of 
the  most  intense  scarlet  and  yellow,  borne  on  stems  from 


110  BULBS    AND    TUBEROUS-HOOTED    PLANTS. 

three  to  four  feet  high.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted 
in  the  open  border,  where  they  can  have  slight  protec- 
tion, and  need  only  to  be  taken  up  when  over-crowded. 

G.  recurvus  (Eecurved). — An  unassuming  yet 
interesting  species.  It  is  a  tall,  slender-growing  plant, 
producing  from  two  to  five  violet-purple  flowers  of  small 
size,  tinged  with  yellow.  The  sheath  is  white,  mottled 
with  purplish-brown,  and  is  as  glossy  as  the  finest  porce- 
lain, which,  in  a  measure,  it  resembles.  It  has  a  fra- 
grance like  that  of  the  Violet. 

G.  purpur.eo-auratus.  —  A  tall,  slender-growing 
species  of  very  graceful  habit,  producing  freely  yellow 
and  purplish  flowers.  Not  remarkable  for  its  beauty 
so  much  as  because  of  its  parentage  of  the  Lemoine 
Hybrids;  a  deservedly  popular  class,  far  superior  in  all 
the  requirements  of  a  desirable  flower. 

G.  Saundersii.— One  of  the  best  of  the  species, 
and  the  parent  of  a  new  strain,  of  which  we  shall  have 
occasion  to  speak,  in  noticing  hybrids.  It  is  remarkable 
for  its  ease  of  culture,  and  for  its  brilliant  scarlet  flow- 
ers, with  conspicuous  pure  white  centers.  It  grows 
about  two  feet  high,  giving  a  fair  sized  spike  of  blooms. 

G.  suaveolens  (Fragrant). — If  the  Gladiolus  were 
grown  for  fragrance  alone,  this  species  would  be  the  one 
most  sought.  Its  flowers  are  pale  yellow,  or  straw  col- 
ored, the  upper  petals  dotted  with  red.  It  is  only 
adapted  for  greenhouse  culture. 

G.  undulatus  (Wavy) . — This  is  a  dwarf-growing 
species,  producing  pale  yellow  flowers  with  a  broad  red 
stripe  through  the  center  of  each  petal,  on  a  slender 
stem.  Earely  cultivated. 

G.  viperatus  (Yiper). — It  derives  its  common 
name  from  the  resemblance  of  its  flowers  to  a  viper's 
head.  This  species  is  more  singular  than  beautiful. 
The  very  fragrant  flowers  are  greenish-gray,  with  dark 
stripes. 


GLADIOLUS.  Ill 

As  regards  the  species  the  reader  will  not  be  bene- 
fited by  further  descriptions.  Those  noted  include  all 
that  have  distinct  characters.  Many  are  so  little  grown 
that  but  little  interest  can  be  attached  to  them.  All 
there  is  of  value  or  interest  in  the  Gladiolus  is  centered 
in  the  hybrid  forms,  and  in  their  cultivation  and  propa- 
gation. On  these  points  much  has  already  been  said ; 
much  more  can  be  said,  on  methods  of  reproduction, 
not  only  aft  regards  the  preservation  and  extension  of 
the  many  valuable  varieties  already  grown,  but  also  in 
the  obtaining  of  new  varieties. 

Hybrid  Gladiolus. — There  is  no  class  of  plants 
that  has  been  so  much  improved  by  hybridization  as  the 
Gladiolus,  nearly  every  effort  being  crowned  with  suc- 
cess, not  only  when  a  cross  between  species  has  been 
effected,  but  in  the  cross-fertilization  of  varieties.  As 
soon  as  the  first  cross  had  been  perfected  in  the  develop- 
ment of  its  flowers,  the  capabilities  of  the  flower  were  at 
once  manifest.  The  changes  in  form,  size  and  combina- 
tion of  colors  were  marvelously  rapid,  and  so  pleasing 
that  the  work  was  pushed  with  an  enthusiasm  that 
knew  no  bounds.  The  labor  and  care  in  cross-fertiliza- 
tion was  so  little  in  comparison  with  results  obtained, 
that  varieties  almost  innumerable  were  given  distinctive 
names,  many  of  which  have  long  since  been  lost  sight  of, 
and  their  places  filled  by  yet  more  beautiful  forms. 
The  work  is  still  going  on,  and  there  is,  seemingly,  no 
limit  to  the  changes  that  can  be  produced. 

The  first  cross  between  the  species  resulted  in  the 
well  known  G.  gandavensis,  about  which  there  has  been 
much  controversy  and  great  misunderstanding.  It  has 
been  regarded  by  many  as  a  species,  or  as  a  distinct  race ; 
whence  or  how  it  sprang  no  one  seemed  to  know, 
although  to  us  its  origin  seemed  as  clear  as  that  of  any 
hybrid  form. 

Louis  Van  Houtte,  the  late  and  most  distinguished 
nurseryman  and  author,  whose  authority  was  undisputed 


112  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

on  all  other  subjects,  said  that  it  was  produced  at  Ghent, 
and  was  a  cross  between  G.  psittacinus  and  G.  cardinalis. 
However  satisfactory  this  statement  may  have  been  to 
florists  in  general,  it .  by  no  means  settled  the  parentage 
of  that  noble  class.  The  late  Hon.  and  Kev.  William 
Herbert,  an  acknowledged  authority  on  bulbs,  said  Mr. 
Van  Houtte  was  in  error,  because,  after  repeated 
attempts  to  hybridize  these  species  he,  Mr.  Herbert, 
could  not  succeed,  consequently  it  was  an  impossibility, 
and  that  Mr.  Van  Houtte  must  have  been  mistaken  as 
to  the  origin  of  G  gandavensis.  All  the  English  author- 
ities agreed  with  Mr.  Herbert,  and  in  every  treatise  on 
the  Gladiolus  his  opinion  was  quoted  as  correct. 

We  can  easily  understand  why  results  can  be  reached 
in  one  country,  that  are  impossible  in  another.  The 
difference  in  climatic  influences  are  sufficient  to  prevent 
in  one  case,  what  it  is  easy  to  accomplish  in  another. 
Certain  it  is,  that  in  the  origin  of  G.  gandavensis,  a  new 
race  began,  and  to  it  we  are  indebted  for  the  fine  garden 
varieties  now  so  extensively  cultivated.  While  crosses 
between  this  hybrid  and  the  species  are  easily  effected, 
it  has  not  been  necessary  to  resort  to  further  hybridiza- 
tion to  accomplish  the  most  wonderful  results. 

We  wish,  at  this  point,  to  correct  the  common  error 
of  calling  the  new  varieties  that  annually  appear,  "hy- 
brids." They  are  not,  in  any  sense,  hybrids,  and  rarely 
are  they  the  results  of  cross-fertilization.  They  are 
simply  choice  seedlings,  creatures  of  accident.  We  have 
raised  from  seed,  either  especially  cross-fertilized,  or 
carefully  selected  from  the  best  named  sorts,  or  from 
seed  taken  at  random  from  our  fields,  in  all,  more  than 
a  million  corms ;  among  the  number  some  of  the  best 
known  varieties  are,  Isaac  Buchanan,  Martha  Washing- 
ton, Bayard  Taylor  and  Charlotte  Cushman.  In  all 
our  efforts  to  produce  a  desired  effect  we  have  failed, 
and,  instead,  we  have  been  favored  with  some  remarkably 


GLADIOLUS.  113 

good  forms  that  we  did  not  anticipate.  From  seeds 
saved  from  the  best  flowers,  we  have  secured  excellent 
results ;  while  from  seeds  gathered  at  random,  we  have 
had  some  of  the  best  flowers  we  have  ever  grown.  From 
a  long  and  varied  experience  in  growing  the  Gladiolus 
from  seed,  we  are  fully  convinced  of  the  folly  of  attempt- 
ing to  secure  any  given  form  or  color  by  any  artificial 
means ;  convinced  that  form  and  color  are  wholly  beyond 
control ;  tfcat  the  offspring  are  liable  to  have  any  of  the 
colors  of  the  original  species,  or  any  combination  or  vari- 
ation of  color  that  the  originals  could  produce.  It  is 
held,  and,  as  a  rule,  correctly,  that  by  persistent  selec- 
tion of  any  given  form,  a  type  can  be  secured ;  that  if 
we  save  seed  from  the  best,  or  only  the  purest  white,  we 
can  finally  secure  seed  that  will  give  only  white  flowers ; 
or  at  least  we  can  finally  secure  a  pure  white  variety. 
The  same  is  said  of  the  yellows  or  scarlets.  Our  experi- 
ence with  Gladiolus  has  been  the  reverse.  For  instance, 
Isaac  Buchanan  is  the  nearest  a  clear  golden  yellow  of 
any  known  variety,  if  we  except  one  found  among  our 
seedlings  recently,  and  the  seed  from  which  it  was  pro- 
duced was  not  taken  from  a  yellow  flower.  Again, 
among  the  seedlings  we  annually  find  types  almost 
like  Brenchleyensis,  which  rarely,  if  ever,  produces  seed, 
and  which  we  have  never  attempted  to  save.  Yet  we 
get  flowers  from  the  first  flowering  of  every  bed  of  seed- 
lings almost  identical.  The  same  is  true  in  every  respect 
with  John  Bull,  a  standard  white  variety.  "We  are, 
therefore,  forced  to  believe  that  new  forms  result  from 
conditions  little  understood.  Certain  it  is  that  good 
cultivation,  in  a  congenial  soil  and  climate,  will  be  the 
best  rewarded. 

There  is  no  other  pleasure  in  gardening  equal  to 

that  which  comes  from  the  growing  of  Gladiolus  from 

seed.     The  certainty  of  getting  some  remarkably  fine 

varieties  is  absolute ;  that  in  a  bed,  no  matter  how  large, 

8 


114  BULBS  AND  TUfcEfcOtfS-KOOTED  PLANTS. 

there  will  be  no  two  alike ;  that  all  will  be  showy,  and 
that  some  will  be  so  grotesque  as  to  cause  us  to  tender 
our  sympathies  to  the  afflicted  parents,  are  not  only 
among  the  possibilities,  but  the  probabilities  of  growing 
seedlings.  By  long  growing  of  a  given  variety  we  find 
its  constitution  is  liable  to  become  impaired,  that  many 
sorts  sicken  and  die.  All  varieties  will  soon  run  out 
unless  propagation  from  offsets  is  constantly  kept  up. 
Seedlings  have  usually  greater  vitality  for  a  number  of 
years  than  the  sorts  grown  from  offsets,  and,  unless  a 
certain  variety  of  merit  is  to  be  perpetuated,  it  is  de- 
cidedly better  to  increase  our  stock  from  seed.  For 
mixtures  furnished  "the  trade,"  we  resort  to  this  method 
wholly.  Flowering  bulbs  can  be  produced  as  quickly 
from  seed  as  from  bulblets,  with  a  certainty  of  greater 
variety,  and  a  chance  of  some  remarkable  forms. 

Selecting  Gladiolus  Seed. — While  there  is  no 
certainty  that  the  seed  saved  and  sown  will  produce 
remarkable  results,  it  is  decidedly  better  to  save  seed 
from  the  best  and  most  vigorous  forms.  '  That  is  a  prin- 
ciple in  seed-saving,  and  should  be  respected  with  the 
Gladiolus.  It  is  a  good  indication  to  strive  for  the  best, 
whatever  may  be  the  result.  Bad  habits  in  anything 
should  not  be  encouraged ;  therefore,  in  selecting  seeds, 
take  from  the  plants,  with  characters  such  as  one  would 
like  to  see  in  the  offspring,  health,  form  and  well-defined 
colors,  this  is  in  the  true  line  of  improvement,  whether 
successful  or  not. 

The  Seed  Bed. — The  ground  should  be  worked 
well  and  deep,  whatever  the  character  of  the  soil,  and  as 
nearly  level  as  convenient  to  avoid  washing  out,  in  case 
of  heavy  rain.  Prepare,  in  all  respects,  the  same  as  for 
any  garden  vegetable ;  sow  the  seeds  thickly  in  rows, 
sufficiently  far  enough  apart  to  work  with  the  hoe ; 
cover  the  seeds  with  fine  soil,  half  an  inch  deep.  Then 
cover  the  whole  bed  with  newly  cut  grass,  fine  hay,  or 


GLADIOLUS. 


115 


lattice  frames  that  will  exclude  nearly  all  the  sun.  This 
will  keep  the  soil  moist  and  prevent  baking,  two  essen- 
tial conditions.  If  the  seed  is  good  and  the  conditions  are 
favorable,  the  young  plants  will  appear  thickly  in  from 
two  to  three  weeks.  When  well  up  remove  the  cover- 
ing, and  at  all  times  keep  the  soil  well  worked  and  free 
from  weeds.  If  the  weather  is  not  too  dry  their  growth 
will  not  be  checked  until  frost,  when  they  should  be 
lifted  and  stared  in  a  dry,  dark  room,  free  from  frost, 
but  cool.  Ours  are 
stored  in  a  dry  cellar, 
heated  only  in  case  of 
necessity.  The  bet- 
ter plan  is  to  put 
them  in  shallow  box- 
es, so  that  the  corms 
will  not  be*  more  than 
two  inches  in  depth  ; 
it  is  not  necessary  to 
put  any  soil  with 
them,  or  covering  over 
them.  If  the  seed 
bed  is  in  good  condi- 
tion, and  the  season 
favorable  for  their 
growth,  the  corms 

will    be    from    one-     GLADIOLUS  CORM  WITH  FULL 
fourth  to  an  inch  in  GROW*  OFFSETS. 

diameter,  the  latter  rarely.     Fully  three-fourths  of  them 
will  bloom  the  second  year. 

Propagation  by  Offsets. — Increase  of  desirable 
varieties  is  effected  by  the  small  corms  or  bulblets  that 
form  at  the  base  of  the  new  corm ;  some  varieties  increase 
very  rapidly,  others  slowly,  and  many  of  our  best  seed- 
lings have  failed  to  produce  any,  consequently  the  vari- 
ety is  soon  lost.  It  matters  not  how  desirable  the  variety 


116  BULBS  AHD  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

may  be;  if  it  does  not  produce  offsets  when  it  first 
flowers,  it  never  will,  and,  with  very  rare  exceptions,  it  is 
thrown  among  the  mixtures.  Why  one  variety  increases 
so  fast,  and  another  not  at  all,  is  another  of  the 
mysteries  that  attends  the  cultivation  of  the  Gladiolus. 
We  have  taken  from  a  single  corm  of  Brenchleyensis,  not 
half  an  inch  in  diameter  when  planted,  more  than  two 
hundred  little  corms,  while  we  should  consider  ourselves 
fortunate  in  getting  a  dozen  from  many  of  the  other 
varieties.  Most  of  the  yellows  increase  with  equal  rapid- 
ity. This  will,  in  a  measure,  account  for  the  differences 
in  price  of  many  old-established  varieties.  Noticeably 
among  these  is  Princess  Mary  of  Cambridge,  a  truly 
splendid  flower,  which  does  not  increase  with  us  by  off- 
sets, and  its  increase  in  Europe  is  but  slow.  La 
Candeur  increases  rapidly  with  us  and  but  slowly  in 
France.  We  find,  in  this  country,  that  its  increase  in 
some  sections  is  far  more  rapid  than  in  others. 

The  little  corms,  or  sets,  may  be  sown  as  early  in 
the  spring  as  the  soil  can  be  put  in  suitable  condition. 
Prepare  the  ground  the  same  as  for  peas,  sow  in  the 
drills  quite  thickly,  say  one  hundred  to  the  foot  of  drill; 
cover  with  half  an  inch  of  fine  soil,  work  in  the  same 
manner  as  recommended  for  the  seed  bed,  only  mulching 
is  unnecessary.  Take  up  as  soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to 
wither,  which  is  usually  about  the  middle  of  September, 
store  in  the  same  manner  as  the  young  seedlings.  The 
bulbs  from  the  offsets  will  be  somewhat  larger  than 
those  from  seed,  but  no  greater  proportion  of  them  will 
flower  the  second  year. 

General  Cultivation  of  the  Gladiolus. — For  early 
flowers  plant  the  corms  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  cdndi- 
tion  for  planting,  no  matter  how  early ;  even  though  the 
surface  may  freeze  slightly  after  planting,  it  will  not 
injure  the  corms  in  the  least.  It  is  the  better  plan  to 
reserve  the  larger  and  stronger  corms  for  late  flowering, 


GLADIOLUS. 


117 


although  they  will  bloom  earlier  than  the  smaller  ones 
if  planted  at  the  same  time.  Although  the  Gladiolus  is 
a  desirable  flower  at  all  seasons,  and  can  be  had  in  the 
open  border  from  June  until  November,  in  the  latitude 
of  New  York,  it  appears  to  the  best  advantage  late  in 
the  season,  when  the  weather  is  cool,  and  the  atmosphere 
moist.  During  August  and  the  early  part  of  September 
the  hot  sun  and  drying  winds  seriously  affect  the  flowers. 
The  spikes  %re  short,  the  individual  blooms  small  and 
withered,  and,  moreover,  they  do  not  endure  nearly  so 
long.  It  does  not  matter  so 
much  about  the  heat,  if  they 
can  have  proportionate 
moisture.  For  small  plats, 
where  the  flowers  are  wanted 
in  midsummer,  plantings 
should  be  made,  so  that  when 
the  flower  stalks  appear  they 
can  have  protection  from  the 
sun  during  the  hottest  part 
of  the  day.  This  can  easily 
be  done  with  a  light  screen, 
white  paper  or  very  thin 
muslin  answering  very  well. 
For  succession  of  bloom 
frequent  plantings  are  desira-  HALp  GEOWN  GLADIOLIJ8 
ble.  This  can  be  accom- 
plished in  the  same  bed,  by 
planting,  first,  the  corms  in 
rows,  say  one  foot  apart,  two  inches  apart  in  the  rows, 
and  two  weeks  later  planting  another  row  between  the 
first  two,  which  will  allow  plenty  of  room  for  growth. 
Later  plantings  can  be  made  wherever  there  is  a  vacant 
spot,  always  bearing  in  mind  the  importance  of  giving 
them  an  open,  airy  situation.  For  late  planting  small 
bulbs  will  not  answer,  as  they  are  liable  to  get  so  dried 


COEM  WITH  THE   OLD 
CORM   ATTACHED. 


118  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

out  that  their  vitality  becomes  impaired.  For  this  pur- 
pose choose  the  strongest  conns,  keep  them  in  a  dark 
cellar,  and  as  cold  as  possible  so  long  as  the  temperature 
does  not  fall  below  the  freezing  point.  The  latest  plant- 
ing can  be  made  the  middle  of  July.  It  is  better,  how- 
ever, not  to  defer  a  general  late  planting  after  July  5th. 
A  light  frost,  such  as  would  destroy  many  tender  plants, 
does  not  injure  the  Gladiolus,  and,  by  throwing  a  sheet, 
or  other  light  covering  over  the  plants,  they  will  with- 
stand several  degrees  of  frost. 

All  lovers  of  these  noble  flowers  should  grow  suffi- 
cient conns,  either  from  seed  or  from  offsets,  that  a 
liberal  use  can  be  made  of  them.  In  the  vegetable  gar- 
den there  are  always  vacant  spots,  where  a  hundred,  or 
more,  bulbs  can  be  planted,  after  some  other  crop  has 
been  secured.  There  is  no  other  flower  so  useful  for 
parlor  decoration,  or  for  any  purpose  where  cut  flowers 
are  desired.  If  cut  when  the  first  flower  opens,  the  spike 
will  develop  its  blooms  quite  as  well  in  water  in  the 
house,  as  out  of  doors ;  in  fact,  better  than  if  left  in 
the  open  sun. 

Field  Culture  of  Gladiolus. — There  is  no  better 
place  to  show  the  capabilities  of  any  plant  than  in  the 
field,  where  it  can  have  all  the  attention,  in  the  way  of 
good  cultivation,  it  needs,  with  the  elements  all  in  its 
favor.  The  Gladiolus  is  no  exception  to  the  rule  ;  no  other 
plant  needs  so  frequent  visits  from  the  cultivator,  none 
appreciates  them  more.  But  the  cultivator  must  not  be 
set  to  work  deep.  When  the  teeth  go  down  so  as  to 
mutilate  the  roots,  great  injury  is  done.  All  that  is 
required  is  to  keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  light,  which 
prevents  it  from  drying  up.  Work  deep  before  planting, 
but  always  shallow  afterwards. 

The  soil  is  prepared  as  for  potatoes,  without  the 
use  of  stimulating  manures.  The  rows  are  furrowed  out 
thirty  inches  apart  with  a.  small  plow,  following  this  with 


GLADIOLUS.  119 

the  fertilizer  distributor,  after  which  we  scatter  the 
corms  in  the  drill  at  the  rate  of  from  ten  to  twenty  to  the 
foot,  then  cover  with  the  same  implement  that  is  used 
for  corn  or  potatoes,  and  the  work  is  complete.  When 
the  leaves  begin  to  break  through  the  surface,  we  go 
over  the  field  with  a  fine  wire-tooth  harrow ;  this  effect- 
ually gets  rid  of  the  first  crop  of  weeds,  after  which  the 
cultivator  is  kept  going.  In  a  season  prolific  of  weeds 
we  have  been  compelled  to  go  over  the  ground  ten  times. 
Under  any  circumstances,  we  go  through  the  rows  with 
cultivator  after  every  rain,  whether  there  are  weeds  to 
kill  or  not.  This  keeps  the  soil  in  the  best  possible  con- 
dition, keeps  down  the  weeds,  and  saves  an  immense 
amount  of  hand  labor.  We  commence  to  take  up  our 
corms  about  the  middle  of  September,  using  a  subsoil 
plow  to  lift  them ;  then  they  are  taken  from  the  rows, 
the  tops  cut  close  to  the  corm,  and  are  then  put  away  in 
racks  in  the  cellar,  eight  feet  deep,  with  plenty  of  space 
for  air  between,  each  rack  containing  about  five  hundred 
flowering  corms.  This  plan  of  cultivation  and  storing 
of  the  corms  we  consider  the  best  that  can  be  adopted, 
and  the  nearer  it  can  be  imitated  in  the  garden,  the 
nearer  the  grower  will  reach  perfect  success. 

Soils  for  Gladiolus. — What  soils  are  best  is  an 
oft-repeated  question,  to  which  we  must  reply  that,  as 
far  as  this  is  concerned,  the  best  is  the  one  we  have.  The 
Gladiolus  dislikes  a  heavy  clay,  but  will  thrive  in  almost 
any  other,  its  preference  being  for  a  light  loam,  or  a 
moist,  sandy  soil.  If  the  ground  be  heavy,  work  it 
thoroughly  and  plant  shallow,  not  more  than  two  inches 
below  the  surface.  If  the  soil  be  light,  work  in  the 
same  manner,  only  cover  the  corms  with  four  inches  of 
soil.  It  is  best  to  use  what  is  termed  sod-ground  when 
practicable,  or  to  plant  in  soil  that  has  been  heavily 
manured  for  a  previous  crop.  Fresh  manure  will  prove 
injurious.  It  is  also  important,  in  planting,  not  to 


120  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

return  to  the  same  soil  in  less  than  three  years.  Disease 
will  always  follow  repeated  plantings  in  the  same  soil. 
This  is  one  reason  why  failures  and  loss  of  plants  are  so 
frequent. 

Deterioration  in  Gladiolus. — The  question  is 
often  asked,  "Does  the  Gladiolus  run  out,  or  deteriorate, 
and  does  it  ever  revert  back  to  the  species  ? "  Many 
amateurs  have  asserted  that  theirs  have  changed ;  that 
where  two  years  ago  they  had  none  other  than  the  best, 
now  they  had  none  but  the  poorest.  We  have  ever  held 
this  to  be  impossible ;  but  that  a  change  in  the  general 
appearance  of  the  bed  might  come  because  of  the  fact 
that  some  varieties  increase  rapidly  by  division,  while 
others  rapidly  die  out  because  of  feeble  constitutions. 

"But,"  says  a  great  admirer  of  the  Gladiolus,  "I 
never  had  in  my  collection  any  such  colors  as  are  now 
the  predominating  ones  in  my  garden ;  they  are  not  as 
good  as  the  original  Gandavensis."  We  replied  that  is 
simply  an  impossibility,  unless  aided  by  human  hands. 
Two  years  after,  he  again  commenced  with  an  entirely 
new  collection  ;  as  yet  he  has  not  made  his  report,  which 
we  are  fearful  will  be  as  unfavorable  as  the  first. 

We  will  give  the  reasons  for  our  fears.  Three  years 
ago  we  planted  our  stock  of  Adanson,  one  of  the  grand- 
est of  the  rosy-lilac  kinds,  consisting  of  several  thousand 
corms,  which  we  knew  to  be  absolutely  free  from  mix- 
ture. When  they  came  into  flower,  to  our  surprise, 
more  than  one-half  of  the  lot  was  as  far  from  the  type  as 
it  was  possible  to  get,  having  a  color  we  had  never  before 
seen,  something  like  that  of  Psittacinus,  while  the  form 
was  not  unlike  that  of  Adanson.  In  this  matter  we 
could  not  be  deceived,  as  we  had  never  a  flower  of  the 
kind  on  the  place.  That  season,  as  well  as  last  year,  we 
marked  every  bulb  that  was  true  to  its  description,  and 
this  year  the  same  change  is  as  apparent  as  before. 
What  is  more  singular,  this  interpolator  is  nowhere  else 


GLADIOLUS.  121 

to  be  found  in  our  fields.  While  this  change  is  serious, 
it  affords  a  rich  field  for  study.  From  this  incident,  we 
shall  no  longer  say  that  the  Gladiolus  does  not  sport  or 
revert  towards  the  species.  This  is,  however,  the  only 
incident  of  the  kind  we  have  ever  noticed. 

Forcing  the  Gladiolus. — The  Gladiolus,  for  deco- 
rative purposes  during  the  winter  season,  has  been  of 
late  considerably  used ;  many  growers  having  been  very 
successful  in  bringing  it  in  at  the  proper  time,  making 
it  a  profitable  branch  of  their  industry.  This  had  the 
tendency  to  induce  others,  who  had  not  sufficient  knowl- 
edge of  its  requirements  to  make  a  success  of  the  enter- 
prise, to  plant  on  a  large  scale.  Like  all  other  under- 
takings, with  hope,  rather  than  experience,  as  a  guide, 
it  has  not  been  as  profitable  as  might  be  desired.  But 
few  men  have  been  entirely  successful ;  among  the  few 
is  John  Thorpe,  of  Pearl  River,  N.  Y.,  who  knows 
the  Gladiolus  well,  and  knowing,  acts  accordingly.  The 
flowers  he  produced  reached  the  full  measure  of  their 
capabilities.  His  article  from  the  Garden  and  Forest, 
will  give  all  the  information  required  to  successfully 
force  the  Gladiolus.  We  quote  the  article  entire.  "  The 
Gladiolus,  when  grown  as  a  forced  flower,  is  appreciated 
to  a  greater  extent  than  when  grown  out  of  doors. 
Like  many  other  flowers,  it  is  better  under  the  protec- 
tion of  glass  when  well  cared  for,  as  the  flowers  are 
larger,  the  colors  purer  and  the  spikes  longer.  To  force 
Gladiolus  successfully,  however,  requires  attention  at 
just  the  right  time,  and  its  wants  should  always  be  antici- 
pated and  supplied.  Here  is  the  routine  of  my  prac- 
tice :  The  bulbs  I  forced  this  year  were  also  forced  last 
year.  They  were  then  planted  February  8th,  and  the 
first  twenty-five  flowers  were  cut  May  30th.  This  year's 
work  began  December  27th  by  potting  each  bulb  in  a 
four-inch  pot,  using  sandy  loam,  without  manure,  and 
placing  the  bulb  on  the  top,  pressing  it  down  to  hold  it 


122  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-KOOTED   PLANTS. 

without  any  other  covering ;  they  were  watered  and  then 
placed  underneath  the  benches  of  a  Carnation-house 
until  the  beginning  of  February.  At  that  time  those 
plants  which  had  grown  to  the  height  of  four  inches 
were  brought  to  the  light  and  again  watered.  Placing 
them  close  together  on  a  bench  near  the  light,  a  little 
water  was  given  from  time  to  time,  retarding  the  top 
growth,  and  encouraging  root-action  as  much  as  possible. 
By  the  twentieth  of  the  month  the  plants  were  gone 
over,  and  all  those  of  an  even  size  were  planted  together 
in  rows  about  a  foot  apart,  and  nine  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  After  planting  those  of  one  size,  then  another 
batch  a  size  less  was  handled.  This  selecting  into  sizes 
pays  for  all  the  trouble  it  costs  in  preventing  strong 
plants  from  overcrowding  the  weaker  ones.  My  soil  is 
rather  a  heavy  sandy  loam,  and  in  this  the  bulbs 
were  planted,  the  depth  of  the  entire  bed  being  a  little 
more  than  four  inches.  The  bulbs  were  scarcely  covered 
even  at  this  time,  and  this,  I  find,  prevents  the  damping 
off  of  the  plants  during  dull  days,  when  they  have  com- 
menced to  grow  rapidly,  and  are  checked  either  by  dark 
weather  or  by  a  cold  spell.  By  the  middle  of  March 
each  plant  was  tied  securely  to  prevent  its  falling  over, 
which  is  generally  ruinous  to  the  flower-spike ;  a  light 
mulching  of  stable-manure  was  then  put  on  and  well 
watered.  From  that  time  until  the  flowers  were  cut  a 
good  soaking  of  liquid  manure  was  given  each  week. 
The  Gladiolus  delights  in  moisture  when  well  along  in 
growth,  but  in  its  earlier  stages  too  much  water  is  death 
to  it.  The  first  twenty-five  flowers  were  cut  for  Easter, 
or  six  weeks  earlier  than  last  year.  The  temperature 
was  never  higher  than  50°  at  night,  and  during  the  day- 
time the  house  was  ventilated  whenever  it  could  be  kept 
above  70°  F.  Three  things  I  find  are  necessary  to  success- 
fully force  the  Gladiolus : 

1.  The  pots  must  be  well  filled  with  roots  before 
the  plants  are  finally  set  out. 


GLADIOLUS.  123 

2.  The  nearer  the  bulbs  are  to  the  surface  the  less 
liable  are  the  plants  to  damp  off. 

3.  The  bulbs  must  be  well  ripened — and  if  so, 
small  ones  are  as  good  as  very  large  ones." 

We  would  add  to  the  above  a  list  of  varieties  best 
adapted  for  forcing,  saying  selection  should  be  made 
from  the  kinds  that  come  earliest  into  flower  out  of 
doors,  and,  at  the  same  time,  such  as  have  the  most 
positive  cok>rs  and  best  defined  markings.  Among  these 
are  the  following,  which  are  as  many  varieties  as  it  is 
profitable  to  grow: 

Shakespeare.— The  best  in  the  list,  both  as  a 
flower  and  a  grower;  flowers  large,  on  a  long  and  well- 
opened  spike,  creamy  white,  with  delicate  carmine-rose 
markings,  and  a  heavy  blotch  on  the  lower  divisions. 

La  Candeur. — A  grand  flower,  nearly  pure  white 
when  grown  under  glass,  having  a  long  spike  of  well- 
opened  flowers  of  good  shape  and  substance. 

Romulus. — One  of  the  earliest  flowers;  dark  red, 
with  pure  white  blotch  and  markings  on  lower  petals. 

Brenchleyensis. — One  of  the  best  and  cheapest; 
a  long  spike  of  vermillion-scarlet  flowers;  one  of  the 
easiest  to  force. 

Eugene  Scribe. — This  is  alwa}^s  a  pleasing  flower, 
and  greatly  improved  when  grown  under  glass.  The 
flowers  are  large,  a  delicate  rose  color,  finely  variegated 
with  darker  rose ;  spike  very  long,  with  the  flowers  well- 
arranged  and  well-opened.  It  is  decidedly  the  best- 
variegated  form  under  cultivation. 

Isaac  Buchanan. —  A  clear,  fine  yellow,  with  but 
little  marking  on  the  lower  division. 

John  Bull. — A  good  white,  when  grown  under 
glass;  it  is  early,  and  largely  employed  because  of  its 
cheapness. 

Napoleon  III. —  A  medium-sized  bright  scarlet 
flower,  lower  divisions  striped  with  creamy  white. 


124  BULBS    AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED    PLANTS. 

The  first  six  mentioned  are  considered  the  best,  and 
all  that  are  really  profitable  to  grow  under  glass;  they 
include  all  the  desired  colors,  and  are  the  best  of  their 
respective  classes. 

Varieties  for  General  Cultivation. — The  selec- 
tion of  varieties  for  general  cultivation  is  an  individual 
matter  depending  wholly  upon  the  number  required  and 
the  taste  of  the  one  making  the  selection.  As  with  all 
other  plants,  tastes  differ,  one  preferring  self-colored 
flowers,  as  far  as  possible;  others  the  more  positive  and 
well-defined  colors;  again,  others  preferring  the  neutral 
tints  only.  Unfortunately,  catalogue  descriptions  are 
misleading.  Our  named  varieties  in  the  Gandavensis 
section  being  largely  of  French  origin,  a  corruption  of 
the  French  language  has  been  used  in  the  description, 
which,  in  many  cases,  does  not  describe;  and  in  very 
many  instances  the  same  description  is  given  to  a  great 
number  of  varieties  that  are  entirely  different  in  their 
general  characters.  For  instance,  the  flowers  of  Ceres, 
Shakespeare,  or  Princess  of  Wales,  would  answer  the 
description  given  to  either,  although  there  is  a  vast  dif- 
ference in  the  general  appearance  of  the  -three  flowers. 

If  a  fine  display  of  good  flowers  is  desired,  it  is  bet- 
ter to  select  wisely  from  the  named  sorts,  and  then  keep 
up  a  stock  by  growing  from  the  offsets;  although  it 
is  more  expensive  at  the  start,  in  the  end,  if  the  offsets 
are  carefully  saved  and  grown,  the  expense  will  be 
very  light  compared  with  that  of  the  more  generally 
grown  bedding  plants,  that  must  be  renewed  annually. 
The  following  twenty-five  varieties,  from  a  list  of  nearly 
five  hundred,  are  the  best  of  the  Gandavensis  section  for 
general  cultivation;  they  fairly  represent  the  class  for 
color,  and  are  all  vigorous  growers. 

Abricote. — Apricot-rose  color,  with  a  large,  well- 
formed  flower. 

Adanson.  —  Fine  rose,  with  darker  rose  markings, 
and  white  blotch  and  lines. 


GLADIOLUS. 

African!. — A  magnificent  variety,  slaty-brown  on 
scarlet  ground,  with  a  conspicuous  white  blotch  on  lower 
divisions.  A  fine  spike. 

Angele.  —  An  effective  flower;  white,  slightly 
marked  with  crimson. 

Brenchleyensis. — One  of  the  oldest  varieties,  and 
one  of  the  best.  Bright  vermillion  scarlet. 

Ceres. — White,  lower  divisions  heavily  marked 
with  rose.% 

Emma  Thursby. — American ;  white  ground,  with 
deep  rose  markings  and  blotches  through  all  the  petals. 
One  of  the  most  showy  and  effective  of  the  variegated 
sorts. 

Eugene  Scribe.— Delicate  rose,  variegated  with, 
darker  rose;  one  of  the  best. 

Gen.  Phil.  Sheridan.— American ;  a  grand  flower, 
fire  red  with  a  distinct  white  line  running  through  each 
petal,  and  a  pure  white  blotch  on  the  lower  petals. 

Golden  Gem. —  Xew  American;  a  very  long  spike 
of  rich  golden  yellow  flowers,  slightly  tinged  with  rose 
at  the  base  of  the  petals.  The  best  yellow  yet  introduced. 

Hesperide. — White  ground,  blotched  and  flaked 
with  rosy  salmon. 

Isaac  Buchanan. — American;  a  clear  rich  yellow, 
slightly  tinted  with  rose  on  the  lower  petals. 

La  Candeur. —  Clear  white,  with  a  delicate  pink 
tint  on  the  edge  of  petals;  a  fine  long  and  well-shaped 
spike. 

Lamarck. — Clear  cherry,  with  white  lines. 

Le  Poussin.  —  Clear  light  red,  with  pure  white 
throat,  rather  dwarf,  flowers  medium  sized,  but  very 
effective. 

Martha  Washington. — American;  a  tall  growing 
form,  of  branching  habit;  flowers  clear  light  yellow, 
slightly  shaded  with  carmine,  very  large,  and  somewhat 
loosely  arranged  on  a  long  spike.  This  shows  to  the 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 


best  advantage  when  cut  and  put  in  a  vase,  as  the  sun  is 
liable  to  discolor  the  flowers. 

Mme.  Monneret.  —  A  clear,  delicate  rose,  short 
spike,  very  fine  for  a  late  bloomer. 

Meyerbeer.  —  One  of  the  very  best,  flowers  well 
arranged,  large,  spike  long.  Color  crimson-scarlet  flamed 
with  vermilion. 

Napoleon  III.  —  Fine  scarlet,  heavy,  with  stripe 
on  the  lower  petals. 

Nestor.  —  Light  yellow  ground,  with  darker  yellow 
stripes  and  markings. 

President  Lincoln.  —  American  ;  blush-white  back- 
ground, with  the  edges  of  the  petals  suffused  with  bright 
rose,  the  lower  divisions  heavily  blotched  and  finely  lined 
with  crimson.  Flowers  very  large,  and  well  arranged  in 
a  long  spike.  Not  a  showy  variety,  but  remarkably 
pleasing. 

Romulus.  —  Very  showy,  fine  dark  red,  with  pure 
white  blotch  and  markings. 

Snow  White.  —  American;  the  nearest  pure  white 
variety  yet  offered  for  sale.  Under  ordinary  circum- 
stances nearly  the  entire  flower  is  a  perfect  paper-  white, 
with  a  slight  cream  shade  on  lower  half  of  the  lower 
petal.  The  spikes  are  of  fair  size,  flowers  well  arranged. 

Schiller.  —  Sulphur,  with  large  carmine  blotch  and 
markings. 

Shakespeare.  —  Ivory  white  ground,  suffused  car- 
mine-rose, large  rosy  blotch  on  lower  division;  early 
and  constant.  One  of  the  best. 

The  Lemoine  Hybrids.—  The  birth  of  the  Le- 
moine  Hybrids  marked  a  new  era  in  Gladiolus  culture  ; 
the  hybrids  of  Gandavensis  and  their  offspring  had, 
seemingly,  reached  their  summit  of  perfection.  Genius, 
like  a  vine  without  support,  was  swaying  to  and  fro  for 
a  subject  upon  which  it  could  bestow  its  limitless  treas- 
ures of  grace  and  beauty,  and  keep  alive  the  warm  inter- 


GLADIOLUS.  127 

est  so  long  centered  in  this  noble  class  of  plants,  a  class 
the  systematic  botanist  respects  as  highly  as  the  florist, 
because  the  wonderful  developments  in  form,  and  the 
marvellous  changes,  separations  and  variations  in  colors, 
had  not,  from  nature's  standpoint,  in  any  way  trans- 
formed a  natural  form  into  a  monstrosity. 

To  M.  Victor  Lemoine,  of  Nancy,  France,  we  are 
indebted  for  a  new  race,  that  bears  his  name ;  a  race  so 
distinct  £nd  so  gorgeously  colored  as  to  awaken  the  most 
lively  interest  in  cross-fertilization,  with  the  full  assur- 
ance that  variation  has  by  no  means  exhausted  her 
resources.  Mr.  "Wm.  Falconer,  whose  delineation  of 
floral  forms  is  always  accurate,  speaks  of  these  so  truth- 
fully, in  the  American  Florist,  that  we  quote  as  follows : 
"'Lemoine's  hybrids'  are  a  race  of  Gladiolus  that  was 
obtained  by  M.  Victor  Lemoine,  of  France,  by  crossing 
Gladiolus  purpureo-auratus  with  a  variety  of  G.  Ganda- 
vensis.  Some  of  these  hybrids  are  very  beautiful.  The 
attempt  is  made  to  secure  brilliance  of  color,  and  at  the 
same  time  retain  the  characteristic  form  of  Purpureo- 
auratus,  for  there  is  quite  an  inclination  among  seed- 
lings to  partake  strongly  of  the  Gandavensis  form.  The 
flowers  are  small,  sometimes  campanulate,  and  frequently 
hooded,  but  their  most  positive  character  is  the  rich 
crimson-purple  blotch  on  the  two,  or  often  three,  lower 
segments.  The  plants  are  vigorous  and  healthy,  but 
somewhat  slender;  the  flower  spikes  are  moderately 
long,  but  often  slender,  and  the  blossoms  are  more 
remotely  placed  in  the  spikes  than  is  usual  in  the  Gan- 
davensis, or  are  crowded  near  the  end  of  the  spike. 

"These  hybrids  have  the  reputation  of  being  hardy, 
but  they  are  not.  Simply  because  we  meet  occasional 
instances  where  they  may  have  survived  the  winter,  is 
no  proof  at  all  of  their  hardiness.  In  cultivating  them 
plant  them  out  early  in  the  season  and  let  them  stay  in 
the  ground  late.  In  the  fall  they  seem  to  be  ripe  long 


128  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

before  they  are  really  fit  to  dig.  Our  object  is  to  get 
tbe  little  bulbs  well  ripened,  for,  unlike  the  bulblets  of 
most  other  species  that  nestle  close  to  the  base  of  the 
large  bulb,  these  shoot  off  a  little  way  and  seem  to  be 
softer  than  other  bulblets,  and  they  are  more  difficult  to 
keep  over  winter. 

"Their  intense  colors,  dark  purple,  crimson  and 
gold,  may  appeal  strongly  in  favor  of  them  as  cut  flowers ; 
at  the  same  time,  there  are  so  many  of  lilacs,  purples, 
dirty  yellows  and  dirty  whitish  colors  among  them,  that 
they  cannot  find  popular  favor.  And  they  have  another 
fault,  the  buds  do  not  open  well  in  water.  I  am  in- 
formed that  Lemoine  has  got  something  extraordinary 
in  this  line  in  the  way  of  brilliant  colors,  and  even  a 
blue  one." 

We  cannot  agree  wholly  with  Mr.  Falconer  in  regard 
to  colors,  although  his  is  but  the  expression  of  popular 
opinion.  To  be  pleasing,  positive,  bold  colors  are  not 
necessary,  essential  as  they  may  be  for  display.  Some 
of  the  neutral  tints,  "dirty"  colors,  of  this  type,  are 
decidedly  interesting  when  closely  examined,  as  all  flow- 
ers should  be,  to  be  understood  and  appreciated.  The 
following  list  includes  the  most  striking  colors  and  beau- 
tiful forms  of  this  class,  and  fairly  represents  the  type. 

Enfant  de  Nancy. — Flowers  medium  size;  pur- 
plish-red, lower  petals  deep  crimson.  Color  and  blotch- 
ing entirely  unknown  heretofore  in  Gladiolus. 

Engesseri. — Very  deep  pink  ;  lower  petals  blotched 
bright  maroon. 

Froebeli. — Flesh-colored,  streaked  with  pink; 
carmine  blotch,  bordered  with  yellow. 

John  Thorpe. — Splendid  plant ;  beautiful  brilliant 
red,  blotched  with  flame,  bordered  with  sulphur,  center 
of  petals  lined  with  yellow. 

Lafayette. — Flowers  very  large ;  yellowish  salmon, 
large  crimson  blotches  on  the  lower  petals. 


GLADIOLUS.  129 

Lemoinei. — Fine,  good  size  flowers,  closely  set  on 
the  spike,  which  is  about  one  foot  long ;  upper  petals  of  a 
creamy  white  color,  tinted  salmon-red,  the  lower  ones 
spotted  with  deep  purplish-crimson,  bordered  with  bright 
yellow  and  salmony  red. 

Marie  Lemoine. — Long  spike  of  fine  well-ex- 
panded flowers ;  upper  divisions  of  a  pale  creamy  color, 
flushed  with  salmon-lilac,  the  lower  divisions  spotted 
purplish-vi&et.  and  bordered  deep  yellow. 

Masque  de  Fer. — Flowers  very  open,  medium 
size  ;  bronze-red,  the  two  lower  lateral  divisions  entirely 
velvety  black,  with  a  yellow  arrow  in  the  center  of  the 
spot ;  plant  dwarf. 

Obelisk. — Flowers  large,  violet;  lower  petals 
blotched  brown,  spotted  with  sulphur. 

Rochambeau. — Flowers  large,  salmon,  lower  petals 
dark  salmon  ;  blotched  purple. 

Stanley. — Ked ;  lower  petals  dark  yellow,  blotched 
with  blood-red. 

Talma. — Pale  lilac;  lower  divisions  violet-brown. 

Victor  Hugo. — Flowers  very  large ;  rose  colored, 
lower  petals  dark  sulphur,  blotched  with  vermillion. 

We  cannot  dismiss  this  class  without  saying  that 
for  display,  or  for  decorative  purposes,  they  do  not  com- 
pare favorably  with  the  Gandavensis  section. 

The  Max  Leichtlin  Hybrids. — The  surprise  cre- 
ated by  the  introduction  of  the  Lemoine  Hybrids  had 
no  sooner  died  away,  than  another  class  of  equal  mag- 
nitude was  announced,  of  a  cross  between  G  Saundersli 
and  a  variety  of  G.  Gandavensis,  which  was  effected  by 
the  celebrated  bulb  grower,  Max  Leichtlin,  of  Baden 
Baden,  Germany.  These  hybrids  are  remarkable  in 
many  respects,  and  in  all  respects  they  are  superior  to 
either  parent.  For  size  and  shape  of  flowers  they  have 
no  equals  in  the  various  classes ;  some  of  the  individual 
flowers  are  immense,  fully  five  inches  across ;  the  spikes 
9 


130  BULBS  AKD  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAHTS. 

are  long  and  the  flowers  well  arranged.  Thus  far  the 
variety  of  colors  is  not  great,  and  but  very  few  of  them 
are  striking,  positive  or  well  defined ;  no  good  whites, 
scarlets  or  yellows.  Besides,  the  flowers  are  wanting  in 
substance;  they  bruise  easily,  and  do  not  seem  to  de- 
velop well  in  vases.  But  it  must  be  remembered  this  is 
a  new  race  and  has  not  reached  its  capabilities;  it  has 
only  outlined  them.  Further  efforts  will  undoubt- 
edly give  to  them  enormous  size  and  remarkable  shape, 
color  and  substance.  Seedlings  have  already  been  pro- 
duced from  them,  showing  considerable  improvement. 
With  the  colors  of  Meyerbeer,  Golden  Gem,  Snow  White 
and  General  Phil.  Sheridan  transmitted  into  their  forms, 
we  shall  have  a  race  that  will  make  further  improvement 
seem  impossible.  Mr.  Leichtlin  sold  his  entire  product 
to  a  French  house,  which,  in  turn,  sold  to  Messrs.  Hal- 
lock  &  Son,  of  Long  Island,  N.  Y. 

GLOKIOSA. 
Climbing  Lily. 

This  bulb  has  but  a  slight  claim  to  the  name  of  lily, 
other  than  its  alliance,  and  the  term  climbing  is  some- 
what strained.  The  Gloriosa  is  a  very  handsome  genus 
of  greenhouse  plants,  of  a  sub-climbing  character,  bear- 
ing the  same  relation  to  climbing  plants  as  does  the  Ivy- 
leaved  Geranium,  having  only  a  slight  tendency  to  climb. 
They  require  the  same  treatment  as  the  Gesnera,  and 
should  have  a  light  trellis  for  support.  Their  flowers 
bear  as  close  a  resemblance  to  Lilium  philadelpliicum,  as 
to  almost  any  other  form.  They  are  curiously  shaped, 
of  a  bright  orange,  blue  or  yellow  color,  and  flower  in 
the  greenhouse  the  entire  summer.  They  are  mostly 
natives  of  South  Africa,  and  are  increased  by  offsets. 
The  species  commonly  met  are  : 

G.  superba. — A  slender  growing  plant,  but  tall 
and  showy.  Under  favorable  circumstances  it  will  attain 


GLOXIKIA.  131 

a  height  of  from  six  to  eight  feet.  The  first  appearance 
of  the  flowers  is  disappointing,  because  of  the  predomi- 
nance of  green.  But  the  green,  in  a  great  measure,  is 
soon  changed  to  bright  orange. 

G.  simplex. — A  species  from  Portugal,  has  flowers 
of  a  delicate  blue  color,  and  is  of  delicate  habit,  rarely 
reaching  a  height  of  two  feet. 

G.  Vjjrescens. — This  flower  is  nearly  all  green  when 
first  opened,  but  changes  to  yellow  when  older.  It  is  a 
native  of  Mozambique. 

G.  nepalensis. — A  native  of  Nepal ;  is  the  hardi- 
est of  the  species,  although  not  as  showy  as  G.  superba. 
It  grows  about  two  feet  high ;  flowers  bright  yellow. 

GLOXINIA. 

Nearly  all  the  species  that  make  up  this  splendid 
genus  of  flowering  plants  are  natives  of  South  America, 
and  are  usually  found  in  deep  ravines,  on  rather  high 
mountain  elevations,  and  always  in  damp,  much  shaded 
situations.  When  we  take  into  account  their  distinct- 
ness, their  continuous  flowering  habit,  the  exquisite 
colors  they  possess,  their  forms  of  matchless  beauty,  and 
the  ease  with  which  they  may  be  grown,  it  will  at  once 
be  admitted  that  few  plants  so  well  deserve  the  attention 
they  require  as  the  Gloxinias.  They  flower  continuously 
through  the  spring  and  summer,  and,  when  grown  in 
pots,  are  very  valuable  for  decorative  purposes,  while  the 
flowers  are  exceedingly  useful  for  small  vases  and  for  all 
purposes  where  cut  flowers  are  used. 

With  the  Gloxinia,  as  with  many  other  flowers, 
selection  and  hybridization,  together  with  a  number  of 
accidental  sports,  have  removed  the  original  species  from 
cultivation.  The  original  forms,  with  their  drooping 
flowers,  have  been  superseded  by  flowers  with  the  corolla 
almost  regular,  and  perfectly  erect ;  this  latter  peculiar- 
ity is  an  important  improvement,  as  the  border  and 


132  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

throat  of  the  corolla  are  fully  presented  to  the  eye,  show- 
ing, at  a  glance,  the  full  beauty  of  the  flower.  Cultiva- 
tion has  wrought  wonderful  changes  in  the  general  char- 
acter of  this  flower ;  forms  have  been  greatly  improved, 
colors  intensified,  substance  enhanced,  and  the  number 
of  flowers  on  a  given  plant  greatly  increased. 

The  most  interesting  class  of    Gloxinias  are   the 
spotted  varieties,  the  origin  of  which  is  quite  as  interest- 


HTBRID    GLOXINIAS. 

ing  as  the  flowers  themselves.  Their  origin  is  described 
in  the  Garden  as  follows  :  "It  has  frequently  occurred 
that  a  certain  family,  or  species,  which  may  not  have 
shown,  during  a  series  of  years,  any  great  tendency  to 
sport,  all  at  once  gives  us  something  novel  and  beautiful. 
M.  Vallerand,  with  whom  the  spotted  varieties  origi- 
nated, assiduously  crossed  the  best  known  varieties,  but, 


GLOXINIA.  133 

although  he  annually  raised  a  large  number  of  seedlings, 
he  could  not  succeed  in  obtaining  anything  better  than 
those  already  in  cultivation.  Being  discouraged  at  find- 
ing his  best  efforts  so  poorly  rewarded,  he  had  deter- 
mined to  relinquish  the  attempt.  His  seedlings  that 
season  (1877)  had  nearly  all  bloomed,  with  the  same 
result.  There  remained  but  a  few  weak  plants  to  flower. 
Curiously  enough,  on  the  weakened  and  latest  seedling 
appeared  a  single  flower,  so  distinct  and  beautifully 
marked  that  M.  Vallerand  declared  that  he  was  quite 
taken  by  surprise.  It  may  be  easily  imagined  how  that 
plant  was  cherished,  the  flower  carefully  fertilized,  and 
precaution  taken  to  destroy  every  other  bloom  near  it. 
The  seed  ripened,  and  from  this  sprang  many  other 
charming  forms." 

Another  interesting  form  has  appeared  in  Gloxinia 
Gesnerioides,  a  cross  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Carter,  of  Lon- 
don, between  the  Gloxinia  and  the  Gesnera.  It  is  but 
little  known  in  this  country,  but  is  described  as  follows  : 
"This  desirable  novelty  is  the  result  of  hybridizing  the 
Gloxinia  with  the  Gesnera,  and  the  peculiar  properties 
of  both  species  are  fully  united,  for  while  carrying  the 
graceful  habit  and  beautifully  colored  foliage  of  the 
Gesnera,  it  produces  the  magnificent  flowers  so  identified 
with  the  Gloxinia." 

We  make  no  attempt  at  a  description  of  the  natural 
species,  as  they  are  no  longer  in  cultivation ;  neither  the 
florists'  varieties,  as  these  are  innumerable.  The  great 
pleasure  in  growing  the  Gloxinia  comes  from  seedlings, 
which  are  so  readily  and  easily  produced,  and  which  fur- 
nish such  an  endless  variety  of  form  and  color,  all  desir- 
able, that  named  varieties  are  not  essential  to  the  most 
beautiful  collection. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Gloxinia  is  very  simple,  and 
nowhere  have  we  seen  it  so  well  managed  as  by  William 
Falconer,  Esq.,  of  Glen  Cove,  Long  Island.  "We  give  his 


134  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-KOOTED   PLANTS. 

method,  graphically  portrayed  in  his  own  language,  as 
follows:  "In  March  (1884)  I  bought  a  dollar  packet 
of  Gloxinia  seeds,  the  finest  strain  in  the  market,  and 
containing  no  more  seeds  than  an  ordinary  fifty  cent 
packet.  I  sowed  them  in  a  shallow  seed-pan  that  was 
well  drained  and  filled  with  light,  sandy,  fine  soil,  and 
kept  in  a  warm  greenhouse  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass.  In 
two  weeks'  time  a  good  many  of  the  seedlings  were  up- 
and  in  about  three  weeks  the  whole  crop  appeared ;  but 
it  was  about  five  weeks  from  sowing  time  before  I  ven- 
tured to  prick  them  oif.  Then  I  pricked  them  off  singly 
into  other  shallow  seed  pans  prepared  as  before,  and 
afterwards,  as  soon  as  their  leaves  began  to  crowd  each 
other,  transplanted  them  into  boxes,  there  to  remain 
until  the  end  of  May. 

"By  this  time  I  had  much  frame  room,  and  I  made 
up  a  hotbed,  waited  until  the  heat  was  on  the  decline, 
then  prepared  it  by  filling  in  four  or  five  inches  deep 
with  light,  mellow  soil,  as  if  I  were  going  to  raise  a  lot  of 
Stocks  or  Asters,  and  planted  out  my  Gloxinias  in  it, 
about  nine  inches  apart  each  way.  I  have  kept  them 
covered  with  sashes  shaded  with  whitewash.  They  are 
kept  close  at  night,  and  in  the  daytime,  according  to 
the  warmness  and  brightness  of  the  day,  the  sashes  are 
tilted  up  from  two  to  six  inches,  but  at  no  time  do  I 
allow  sunshine  to  get  on  the  plants.  Any  dampening 
leaf  or  decaying  matter  is  removed  as  soon  as  observed/ 
and  I  never  water  or  syringe  the  plants  overhead  ;  indeed, 
any  watering  required  is  done  most  carefully  by  intro- 
ducing the  waterpot  spout  between  the  plants  and  under 
the  leaves. 

"During  their  whole  life  the  plants  have  been  kept 
close  to  the  glass,  shaded  from  sunshine,  and  dry  over- 
head. These  plants  are  to-day — the  middle  of  July— 
exceedingly  strong  and  luxuriant,  their  leaves  crowded 
and  overlapping  each  other,  and  they  are  blooming  beau- 


GOLDEN   LILY — GRIFFItflA.  135 

tifully,  and  I  expect  to  have  them  in  flower  till  Septem- 
ber. Then  I  shall  let  them  dry  up  gradually  till  they 
lose  their  leaves,  when  I  shall  lift  the  roots,  store  them 
in  earth  in  a  shallow  box,  and  keep  them  dry  over  win- 
ter. Next  spring  they  will  be  available  for  pot  culture 
for  early  flowers,  or  for  again  planting  in  frames.  I  pre- 
fer one  and  two-year-old  plants  to  those  that  are  older, 
hence  would  raise  a  fresh  lot  from  seed  every  year." 

The  tubers  should  be  started  into  growth  about  the 
first  of  March,  or  earlier,  if  they  have  sprouted.  Give 
them  three-inch  pots,  filled  with  light,  sandy  soil,  made 
rich  with  thoroughly  rotted  manure.  Place  them  in  the 
warm  greenhouse,  shaded  from  the  sun,  but  as  near  the 
light  as  possible.  Shift  into  larger  pots,  as  required. 
The  atmosphere  should  always  be  warm  and  moist,  and 
the  plants  should  never  suffer  for  want  of  water,  but  the 
leaves  should  never  be  wet  on  their  upper  surface.  After 
flowering,  water  should  generally  be  withheld  until  the 
plants  are  dry,  then  set  away  in  some  warm,  dry  place, 
until  it  is  time  to  start  into  growth  again.  Any  desired 
variety  may  be  propagated  by  division  of  the  tubers,  or 
from  leaf  cuttings,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Eex  vari- 
eties of  the  Begonia.  The  Gloxinia  was  named  in  honor 
of  P.  B.  Gloxin,  a  botanist  of  Colniar. 

GOLDEN  LILY. 
See  Lycoris. 

GRAPE  HYACINTH. 
See  Muscari. 

GREEN  DRAGON. 
See  Arisaema,  Page  31. 

GRIFFINIA. 

A  small  genus  of  handsome  greenhouse  bulbs  from 
South  America,  belonging  to  the  natural  order,  Amaryl* 


136  BULBS  AKD  TUBEKOUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

lidacece,  and  producing  large  umbels  of  handsome  bright 
purple  flowers.  They  grow  readily  if  treated  the  same 
as  Hippeastrum  (See  Page  13).  There  are  but  three 
species  generally  cultivated. 

G.  hyacinthina. — Flowers  blue  and  white. 

G.  parviflora. — Flowers  pale  purple. 

G.  intermedia. — Bright  blue  flowers. 

GROUND  NUT. 
See  Apios,  Page  31. 

GUERNSEY  LILY. 
See  Sarniensis,  Page  21. 

GUINEA-HEN  FLOWER. 
See  Fritillaria,  Page  92. 

HABRANTHUS. 

This  genus  is  now  classed  with  Hippeastrum  (Page 
13),  and  is  closely  allied  to  Zephyranthes  (Page  25). 

H^BMANTHUS. 

Blood  Flower. 

A  genus  of  South  American  bulbs,  more  curious 
than  beautiful ;  in  fact,  but  one  species,  H.  coccineus, 
is  really  worth  cultivating,  and  this  is  remarkably  showy. 
Its  flowers,  when  fully  expanded,  form  a  perfect  globe ; 
each  individual  flower  is  small,  but  the  mass  of  brilliant 
scarlet  is  a  very  showy  object.  The  leaves  of  most  of 
the  species  are  very  broad,  long  and  thick,  requiring  con- 
siderable room.  They  need  high  heat  and  plenty  of  water 
when  in  active  growth,  which  is  only  about  four  months 
of  the  year;  the  remainder  of  the  time  they  demand 
rest.  The  flowers  precede  the  leaves,  in  September. 

HAREBELL. 

See  Scilla  nutans. 


HATLOCKIA — HERBEBTIA.  137 

HAYLOCKIA. 

A  small  bulb  from  Buenos  Ayres,  allied  to  Cooperia 
and  Zephyranthes.  Flowers  beautiful  straw-color,  pro- 
duced in  September.  The  leaves  remain  green  the  entire 
winter,  making  it  necessary  to  have  greenhouse  room, 
although  it  is  not  at  all  particular  as  to  treatment.  The 
foliage  dies  in  spring.  Propagation  by  seeds  or  offsets. 

<,  HERBEKTIA. 

A  small  genus  of  rare  bulbs  found  near  the  Straits 
of  Magellan,  in  South  America.  It  requires  pot  culture. 
The  flowers  are  somewhat  like  the  Iris,  of  various  colors, 
blue,  white  and  pink.  The  bulbs  are  not  in  cultivation 
for  the  trade. 

HESPERANTHA. 

Evening  Flower. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope  bulbs  allied  to 
the  Ixia,  and  thriving  under  the  same  general  treatment. 
The  flowers  are  small,  but  rather  pretty,  arranged  in 
loose  spikes ;  they  expand  during  the  evening,  and  are 
sweet  scented,  but  remain  closed  during  the  day.  The 
position  they  occupy  does  not  warrant  a  description  of 
the  species. 

EESPEROSCORDON. 
A  synonym  of  Brodiaea,  Page  45. 

HEXAGLOTTIS. 

This  genus  closely  resembles  Homeria,  and  belongs 
to  a  class  that  does  not  warrant  cultivation.  The  flow- 
ers are  yellow,  and  rather  pretty.  The  bulbs  of  one  of 
the  species,  H.  flexuosa,  are  roasted  and  eaten,  forming 
a  large  portion  of  the  food  of  the  Hottentots. 

HIPPEASTRUM, 
See  Page  13, 


138  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

HOLLAND  BULBS. 
See  Fritillaria,  Hyacinth,  Narcissus  and  Tulip. 

HOMERIA. 

This  is  another  of  the  many  genera  of  Cape  bulbs, 
belonging  to  Iridaceae,  and  formerly  included  in  the 
genus  Moraea.  They  are  all  ornamental,  and  remarka- 
ble for  the  abundance  and  long  continuance  of  their 
flowers,  lasting  the  entire  summer.  They  require  the 
protection  of  a  frame  during  winter,  but  no  other  care 
is  necessary  to  produce  their  flowers  in  the  greatest 
abundance,  or  for  the  increase  of  their  bulbs,  which  is 
by  offsets. 

H.  lineata. — The  most  common  of  the  species; 
flowers  coppery  red,  with  a  metallic  luster,  produced  in 
abundance  from  June  to  September. 

H.  elegans  (spicata). — A  beautiful  species  with 
orange-yellow  flowers. 

The  other  species  do  not  materially  differ  from  those 
described.  They  all  have  scarlet  or  yellow  flowers,  and 
are  worthy  of  cultivation. 

HONEY  GAELIC. 

See  Nectaroscordum. 

HYACINTH. 

Prominent  in  the  list  of  bulbs  is  the  Hyacinth,  and 
the  one,  moreover,  which  is  most  grown  for  early  spring 
flowers  in  the  garden,  and  for  pot  culture  in  the  window 
garden.  Although  it  is  one  of  the  best  known  bulbs, 
there  are  only  three  or  four  distinct  species  in  the  genus, 
and  all  our  garden  varieties  have  come  from  Hya- 
cinthus  orientalis,  a  species  that  contains  several  varie- 
ties, the  seeds  from  which,  by  cross-fertilization,  which 
is  readily  affected,  have  produced  varieties  almost  innu- 
merable. The  early  history  of  the  garden  Hyacinth*  is 


HYACINTH. 


139 


but  little  known;  Gerard,  in  his  "Herbal,"  1596, 
speaks  of  it  as  of  a  well-known  flower,  without  saying 
when  it  was  introduced,  and  he  describes  and  figures 
several  double  varieties  of  the  original  species,  which  he 
says,  simply,  was  brought  from  the  East.  The  varieties 


HOUSE  BLOOMING    HYACINTHS. 

then  known  were  blue,  white  or  pink,  which  were  the 
only  colors  known  in  the  Hyacinth  until  about  the  com- 
mencement of  the  present  century,  when  a  few  pale  yel- 
low, or,  rather,  lemon-colored  kinds  were  raised  from 
seed.  From  these,  by  careful  selection  and  cross-fertili- 
zation, great  improvement  in  color,  as  well  a$  form,  has 
been  made. 


140  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

Field  Culture  of  Hyacinth  Bulbs. — Much  has 
been  said  and  written  in  regard  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
Hyacinth.  "We  shall  give  all  the  information  known  in 
regard  to  culture,  as  is  practiced  in  Holland,  informa- 
tion we  haye  received  from  the  best  growers,  and  on 
their  own  grounds.  It  is  well  to  remark  here  that  the 
conditions  of  soil,  in  which  the  Hyacinth  finds  so  con- 
genial a  home  in  Holland,  can  rarely  be  found  elsewhere. 
And  further,  that  the  Hyacinth  will  perfect  its  bloom, 
from  bulbs  grown  in  Holland,  in  any  soil,  or  in  water, 
even,  providing  all  other  conditions  are  favorable.  Deep 
in  the  hidden  scales  of  the  bulb  commenced  last  year 
those  wonderful  preparations,  which  will  surely  develop 
the  flower  this  year,  under  almost  any  circumstances. 
The  important  part  of  cultivation  consists  in  bringing 
the  bulb  up  to  the  proper  condition  for  flowering  when 
we  receive  it. 

The  Hyacinth  likes  a  very  sandy,  well-prepared,  fine 
and  light  soil,  entirely  free  from  stone  or  gravel,  conse- 
quently looking  as  though  it  had  been  passed  through  a 
fine  sieve.  All  kinds  of  loam  or  stiff  soil,  which  bind  so 
closely  together  that,  when  dry,  the  wind  cannot  sepa- 
rate their  particles,  as  it  does  those  of  sand,  must  be 
avoided.  In  Holland  a  soil  is  considered  particularly 
good  which  is  light  gray,  and  which  resembles  fine,  very 
sandy  and  light  garden  mold.  This  soil,  which  is  very 
light  of  itself,  is  made  still  lighter  by  the  addition  of  the 
thin  sand  of  the  Dutch  downs,  which  is  of  a  pale  yellow 
color,  and  very  fine.  The  only  manure  used  is  from  the 
cow-stable,  which  must  be  quite  pure,  and  not  mixed 
with  straw  or  any  other  substance. 

In  preparing  the  Hyacinth  beds,  particular  attention 
is  paid  to  the  following  rules  :  1.  That  no  stimulating 
fertilizer  must  be  mixed  with  the  soil  for  a  period  of 
four  years  previous  to  planting.  2.  That  Hyacinths 
must  not  be  grown  in  the  same  soil  oftener  than  once  in 


HTACIKTH,  141 

four  years.  The  latter  rale  must  be  respected ;  because, 
if  planted  a  year  earlier,  the  decayed  remains  of  the  old 
bulbs  would  bring  disease  to  the  newly  planted  bulbs. 
The  usual  custom  in  Holland  is  to  plant  a  bed  the  first 
year  with  Hyacinths,  the  second  with  Tulips,  the  third 
with  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  and  it  is  considered  desira- 
ble to  plant  something  similar  the  fourth  year.  The 
bed  is  generally  prepared  for  Hyacinths  the  fourth  sea- 
son. Between  December  and  February  the  ground  is 
dug  two  or  three  feet  deep.  In  March  the  soil  is  covered 
to  the  depth  of  three  inches  with  cow  manure,  then 
spaded  in  a  foot  deep.  During  the  summer,  vegetables, 
or  annuals,  which  do  not  exhaust  the  soil,  are  grown  on 
the  bed.  The  following  autumn  the  soil  is  dug  two 
feet  deep,  taking  care  to  let  the  manure,  which  was 
put  on  in  the  spring,  remains  a  foot  deep  in  the  earth. 
In  the  beginning  of  October,  planting  commences  in 
the  following  manner:  The  whole  piece  of  ground 
allotted  for  Hyacinths  is  divided  into  beds  about  five  feet 
in  width.  The  soil  is  taken  from  the  surface  of  the  first 
bed  to  the  depth  of  from  three  to  five  inches,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  bulbs  to  be  planted,  and  conveyed  to 
the  further  side  of  the  last  bed  in  the  piece  of  ground  to 
be  planted.  The  first  bed  then  is  carefully  raked  over 
and  divided  into  rows  a  foot  apart,  and  the  bulbs  placed 
on  these  rows,  without  pressing  down,  about  six  inches 
apart.  The  second  bed  is  dug  out  in  like  manner,  and 
the  earth  which  is  taken  from  it  is  used  for  covering  the 
bulbs  in  the  first  bed ;  and  in  this  manner  they  proceed 
to  the  last  bed,  which  is  covered  with  the  earth  of  the 
first  bed.  Very  large,  strong  growing  bulbs  are  planted 
six  inches  deep,  and  further  apart ;  while  small  bulbs, 
such  as  are  incapable  of  producing  flowers,  are  scattered 
closely  in  the  rows,  and  not  covered  so  deeply.  The 
weather  should  be  dry  during  the  time  of  planting,  as 
continued  wet  weather  is  liable  to  cause  rot. 


142  BITI3S  AND  TUBEBOtfS-ROOTED  PLAHTS. 

After  planting,  the  beds  are  kept  clear  of  weeds, 
nicely  raked  and  made  ready  for  covering  on  the  approach 
of  frost,  which  usually  occurs  about  the  first  of  Decem- 
ber. The  covering  is  made  of  reeds,  which  grow  in 
immense  quantities  on  the  banks  of  the  canals  and 
ditches  everywhere  found  in  Holland.  The  first  cover- 
ing is  of  the  partially  decayed  reeds  used  the  previous 
season;  upon  these  the  new  reeds  are  placed,  to  the 
depth  of  several  inches,  and  kept  down  by  means  of  pegs. 
When  the  covering  is  completed  the  beds  are  as  neat 
and  orderly  as  the  ones  in  which  their  owners  sleep. 
About  the  first  of  March,  when  frost  is  no  longer  appre- 
hended, the  covering  of  the  beds  is  taken  off,  and  the 
surface  carefully  cleaned  and  raked,  after  which  they 
are  watered  with  a  mixture  of  cow  dung  and  water, 
which  forms  a  light  crust,  and  prevents  the  wind  from 
disturbing  the  surface  of  the  beds.  This  is  a  necessary 
work,  as,  owing  to  the  lightness  of  the  soil,  it  would 
drift,  when  dry,  about  as  freely  as  snow.  The  only  cul- 
tivation given  is  to  keep  the  beds  clean  from  weeds  until 
the  time  of  flowering,  in  April.  At  this  time  the  plants 
are  carefully  examined,  and  if,  by  accident,  there  should 
be  a  wrong  variety  in  the  bed,  it  is  marked  for  removal. 
There  are  no  beds  of  mixed  bulbs,  of  any  class  whatever, 
grown  in  Holland,  excepting  in  rare  instances,  where 
specialists  are  growing  from  seed  to  procure  new  varie- 
ties. Every  variety  has  its  name,  and  is  grown  and 
stored  in  such  a  systematic  manner  that  there  is  but 
little  chance  for  a  bulb  to  get  out  of  place.  In  all  cases, 
"mixtures,"  as  quoted  in  dealers'  catalogues,  are  made 
up  of  equal  proportions  of  colors,  from  bulbs  of  second 
size,  and  of  inferior  quality.  Of  this  more  will  be  writ- 
ten in  treating  of  selection. 

After  the  bulbs  have  flowered  the  flower-stalks  are 
cut  off,  which  throws  the  whole  strength  of  the  plant 
into  the  bulb ;  the  flower  spikes  are  usually  thrown  into 


143 


the  ditches,  because,  should  they  be  left  on  the  land, 
they  would  cause  the  bulbs  to  rot.  They  cannot  be 
used,  even  as  a  manure  for  trees,  or  any  other  plants, 
because,  if  they  are  not  poisonous,  they  at  least  always 
contain  a  corrosive  substance,  and  to  such  a  degree  that 
in  the  month  of  October,  if  they  are  worked  among  for 
a  few  hours,  they  will  have  a  worse  effect  on  the  laborer 
than  the  Poison  Ivy  ;  the  skin  becomes  red  and  inflamed, 
and  the  pain  is  so  intense  that  it  prevents  sleep. 

The  manner  of  harvesting  the  bulbs  in  Holland  is 
as  follows  :  First,  all  the  leaves  are  cut  just  under  the 
surface  of  the  beds,  with  a  sharp  shuffle-hoe,  immediately 
after  which  the  bulbs  are  taken  up  with  the  hands,  the 
laborer  sitting  on  the  ground  all  the  time.  When  taken 
up  they  are  put  in  shallow  trenches,  close  together,  and 
covered  with  earth,  where  they  remain  from  one  to  three 
weeks  to  ripen,  after  which  they  are  brought  into  the 
store  rooms  and  placed  thinly  to  dry,  They  are  then 
cleaned,  the  tops  cut  closely  to  the  bulb,  and  the  bulbs 
assorted  according  to  quality  and  size. 

Propagation  of  the  Hyacinth.  —  There  are  two 
artificial  methods  of  propagating  the  Hyacinth  in  Hol- 
land. The  first  is  by  means  of  cross-cuts  made  through 
the  base  of  the  bulbs,  reaching  half  way  up  the  bulb. 
These  cuts  are  made  as  soon  as  the  bulbs  are  taken  from 
their  beds,  before  they  are  put  in  the  trenches  for  curing, 
the  strongest  and  most  healthy  bulbs  being  chosen,  as 
they  produce  the  largest  number  of  offsets.  After  the 
bulbs  are  cut  they  are  laid  in  the  trenches  to  ripen,  the 
same  as  the  other  bulbs.  These  cuts  soon  open  wide, 
and  send  out  young  bulbs  thickly  along  the  scales  before 
autumn.  They  are  planted  in  this  state  in  beds  by 
themselves,  and  the  next  year,  after  having  been  dried 
on  the  shelves,  they  are  separated  and  trimmed,  'i'ho 
first  year  after  cutting,  the  bulbs  make  very  little,  if  any, 
foliage,  as  the  old  bulb  has  no  longer  a,ny  influence,  and 


144  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

the  young  bulbs  exhaust  their  energies  in  perfecting  their 
own  increase.  After  the  first  season's  growth  in  the 
bed,  they  are  taken  up  and  handled  in  precisely  the  same 
manner  as  the  old  bulbs.  It  requires  from  three  to  five 
years'  growth  to  make  bulbs  of  merchantable  size,  which 
means,  for  the  best  bulbs,  as  large  as  they  can  be  grown, 
without  natural  division,  after  which  they  produce  but 
inferior  spikes  of  bloom. 

The  other  method  of  propagation  is  by  hollowing 
out  the  base  of  the  bulb,  leaving  a  narrow  rim,  and 
scooping  out  the  center  about  one-fourth  of  its  depth. 
This  work  is  performed  in  August,  in  clear,  dry  weather, 
as  in  wet  weather  the  bulbs  will  be  very  liable  to  rot. 
It  is  very  desirable,  as  in  propagating  by  cross-cuts,,  that 
the  bulbs  chosen  for  this  purpose  should  be  very  strong 
and  healthy.  The  hollowed-out  part  of  the  bulb  ought 
not  to  be  touched  after  the  cutting,  either  by  the  finger 
or  anything  else,  and  the  most  common  and  best  way  is 
to  strew  a  dry  board  with  fine,  dry  sand,  lay  the  bulbs 
upon  it,  and  to  turn  the  hollowed-out  part  to  the  sun. 
After  lying  some  time,  the  heart,  which  extends  as  far 
as  the  point  of  the  bulb,  becomes  detached  by  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  and  is  carefully  removed  with  a  smooth  stick, 
being  careful  not  to  bruise  the  scales  of  the  bulb.  The 
bulbs  are  then  kept  in  a  dry  place  exposed  to  the  sun, 
until  it  is  time  to  plant  out  in  autumn.  In  the  mean- 
time small  bulbs,  in  great  quantities,  will  be  formed  all 
iilong  the  lines  of  the  scales.  When  this  kind  of  propa- 
gating proves  successful,  it  is  far  more  rapid  than  by 
cross-cuts,  but  the  young  bulbs  are  not  as  large,  and 
they  will  require  an  additional  growth  of  one  or  two 
years  to  make  salable  bulbs. 

Garden  Culture  of  Hyacinths. — Hyacinths  can 
be  grown  in  the  open  air  successfully,  and  with  as  little 
difficulty  as  any  flowering  bulbs.  The  only  real  enemy 
they  have  is  frost  While  classed  with  hardy  bulbs, 


HYACINTH.  145 

they  are  not  hardy,  and  their  cultivation  would  be  more 
general  if  this  fact  were  so  stated  in  the  catalogues,  upon 
which  the  amateur,  in  a  great  measure,  depends  for  his 
information.  The  Hyacinth  may  live,  but  it  will  not 
thrive  in  the  open  border  unless  thoroughly  protected. 
Many  growers  have  become  discouraged,  from  losses  due 
to  freezing,  which  they  have,  unwisely,  attributed  to 
some  other  cause ;  not  knowing  what  the  trouble  was, 
they  had  no^remedy ;  consequently  they  have  abandoned, 
in  a  great  measure,  its  cultivation  as  a  border  plant.  A 
greater  mistake  is  not  common.  They  need  never  fail, 
and  their  absence  from  the  garden  is  a  loss  that  cannot 
be  supplied  by  any  other  flower. 

The  catalogues  are  equally  responsible  for  another 
mistake  of  equal  magnitude,  namely :  that  a  special  soil 
is  necessary  for  the  perfect  development  of  the  flower. 
While  the  Hyacinth  cannot  be  propagated  profitably  in 
other  than  a  sandy  soil,  it  can  be  grown,  or  flowered,  in 
any  soiL  It  is  not  the  quality,  but  the  condition  of 
the  soil,  that  is  essential.  And  the  only  conditions  nec- 
essary are  to  plant  the  bulbs  sufficiently  early  in  a 
deep  and  rich  soil  to  allow  them  a  chance  to  make 
a  good  root  growth ;  then  to  protect  thoroughly  against 
frost.  Whether  the  soil  is  clayey,  loamy  or  sandy, 
the  result  will  be  the  same.  A  minor  consideration 
is  to  afford  the  bed  good  drainage,  if  in  a  situation 
where  water  has  a  tendency  to  stand  at  any  time.  If 
the  soil  is  heavy  the  bulbs  should  not  be  covered  more 
than  from  two  to  three  inches ;  if  light,  from  four  to 
six  inches.  Be  governed,  as  to  depth  of  planting,  by 
the  lightness  or  heaviness  of  soil,  and  remember,  the 
soil  one  has  is  the  best  one  has ;  there  is  no  choice,  and 
need  be  none.  As  frost  is  the  only  obstacle  to  success, 
how  can  this  be  guarded  against  ?  Simply  enough,  as  a 
rule,  for  usually  where  there  is  a  garden  there  are  trees, 
the  newly  fallen  leavfcs  of  which  are  the  best  and  the 
10 


146  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLAHT8. 

most  natural  protection.  Cover  the  bed  to  the  depth  of 
six  inches,  as  well  as  a  margin  of  two  feet  on  either  side 
of  the  bed,  with  leaves,  which  can  be  kept  in  place  by 
pieces  of  board  or  branches  of  trees,  and  the  work  is 
complete.  This  covering  should  be  gradually  removed 
upon  the  approach  of  warm  weather,  as  the  plants  will 
be  above  ground  before  the  frost  is  out  of  unprotected 
places.  The  climate  on  the  coast,  from  Canada  to  Vir- 
ginia, is  the  worst  possible  for  the  Hyacinth,  because  of 
the  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  so  common  in  early 
spring.  To  guard  against  this,  a  suitable  mat  should  be 
in  readiness  to  throw  over  the  bed  after  the  winter  cov- 
ering has  been  removed.  No  further  cultural  instruc- 
tions are  necessary  for  the  Hyacinth  in  the  open  border, 
observing  what  we  have  said  in  regard  to  manures,  as 
used  in  Holland.  It  is  by  no  means  essential  to  have 
the  ground  as  rich  to  flower  the  bulb  as  it  was  to  produce 
it,  as  the  flower  is  already  formed,  and  whether  the  soil 
be  rich  or  poor,  the  same  number  of  flowers  will  appear 
on  the  stem ;  but,  of  course,  under  favorable  conditions, 
they  will  be  larger  and  stronger  than  under  the  reverse. 
Selection  of  Varieties  of  Hyacinths. — Where 
required  for  use  in  large  quantities,  Hyacinths  of  good 
quality  and  striking  colors  may  be  had  at  very  low  rates. 
This  is  an  important  consideration,  as  many  amateurs 
are  deterred  from  making  as  good  a  display  as  they 
might  wish,  because  of  the  expense,  which  is  thought 
disproportionate  to  the  effect  produced.  For  many 
years  we  have  grown  the  Hyacinth  with  varied  degrees  of 
success.  We  have  planted  bulbs  that  were  sold  at  retail 
at  two  dollars  each  ;  beside  them  we  have  had  those  grow- 
ing that  only  cost  one  dollar  per  dozen,  and  we  must  say 
that  none  but  the  professional  bulb-grower  would  notice 
the  difference.  The  contrast  in  prices  is  still  greater 
now,  as  good  bulbs  can  be  bought  at  four  dollars  per 
hundred,  retail. 


HYACINTH.  147 

Many  persons  make  the  growing  of  Hyacinths  a 
hobby.  This  is  very  commendable,  for  it  stimulates  the 
production  of  new  varieties,  with  a  view  toward  improve- 
ment ;  and  whenever  a  new  variety  is  brought  out,  it  is 
eagerly  sought,  at  a  high  price,  to  the  great  encouragement 
of  the  producer,  and  to  the  convenience  of  the  general 
consumer,  for,  as  soon  as  the  novelty  is  worn  off,  the  price 
is  reducecj  to  that  of  the  standard  sorts.  It  is  a  mistake, 
in  the  selection  of  Hyacinths  for  the  open  border,  to 
choose  the  largest  bulbs,  which  are  usually  the  highest 
priced ;  it  is  much  better  to  get  what  is  known  as  second- 
sized  bulbs,  not  simply  because  they  are  cheaper,  but 
because  they  are  better,  as  they  will  not  break  up  into 
small  bulbs,  as  the  larger  ones  invariably  do  after  the 
first  year,  each  part  producing  a  weak  spike  with  but 
few  bells,  but  the  small  bells  will  grow  on  for  two  or 
three  years,  giving  a  fine  spike  each  year.  We  do  not 
advise  the  use  of  mixed  bulbs,  but,  rather,  what  are  usu- 
ally termed  "Bedding  Hyacinths,"  which  simply  means 
second  or  third  sized  bulbs  of  the  standard  varieties,  such 
as  have  'been  in  cultivation  for  the  last  hundred  years, 
and  within  that  period  but  little  real  improvement  has 
been  made  in  Hyacinths,  either  as  regards  size,  form  or 
color,  excepting  so  far  as  double  forms  may  be  consid- 
ered an  improvement,  notwithstanding  there  are  annually 
brought  out  a  score  or  more  of  "novelties."  These 
bulbs  differ  only  from  the  first  size,  in  not  having  been 
grown  so  long,  by  one  or  two  years,  which  allows  of  their 
being  sold  materially  cheaper. 

Growing  Hyacinths  in  Pots. — For  pot  culture 
there  is  no  plant  that  succeeds  better,  or  gives  more  gen- 
eral satisfaction,  than  the  Hyacinth ;  certainly  there  is 
none  other  more  easily  managed.  For  this  purpose 
select  solid,  heavy  bulbs,  without  regard  to  size  ;  second- 
sized  bulbs  will  generally  prove  quite  as  satisfactory  as 
the  larger  OH69>  For  a  single  bulb  a  five-inch  pot  is 


148  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

sufficiently  large.  Fill  it  with  any  good  potting  mold, 
a  light,  rich  one  being  preferable.  Kemove  a  little  soil 
from  the  central  surface,  and  into  this  opening  lightly 
press  the  bulb,  so  as  not  to  -have  the  soil  hard  beneath  it, 
but  pack  the  earth  firmly  around  it,  leaving  about  one- 
third  of  the  bulb  visible.  If  the  bulb  is  pressed  too 
firmly  in  the  soil,  when  the  roots  begin  to  grow,  instead 
of  penetrating,  they  will  lift  the  bulb  out  of  its  proper 
position.  After  potting  set  the  pots  in  any  sheltered 
position,  where  they  will  not  get  too  much  water,  and 
cover  with  soil,  or,  what  is  better,  coal  ashes,  to  the 
depth  of  six  or  eight  inches ;  over  this  throw  leaves  or 
coarse  litter,  to  prevent  freezing,  so  that  they  may  be 
brought  into  the  house  as  required.  It  is  a  common 
practice  to  put  them  in  a  cellar  or  shed.  This  is  not  a 
good  plan,  however,  as  the  soil  is  apt  to  get  too  dry  after 
the  roots  start,  from  the  ill  effects  of  which  the  plants 
never  fully  recover.  For  a  succession  of  bloom,  bring 
in  as  many  as  desired  about  December  first,  and  every 
two  weeks  thereafter  until  February  first.  If  the  bulbs 
have  been  kept  from  the  frost,  as  they  should  have  been, 
they  will  have  made  considerable  top  growth,  in  which 
case  bring  them  gradually  to  the  light  until  they  get 
their  natural  color,  after  which  they  will  stand  all  the 
light  and  heat  the  living  room  will  afford.  It  will  aug- 
ment the  beauty  of  the  flowers  and  prolong  their  period 
of  usefulness  to  grow  them  in  a  low  temperature, 
although  they  thrive  in  any  other,  provided  watering  is 
proportionate.  The  best  time  for  potting  is  as  soon  as 
possible  after  the  bulbs  arrive  from  Holland,  when  they 
have  had  a  sufficient  period  of  rest,  and  are  ready  for 
the  first  period  of  root  growth.  The  quicker  the  pots 
are  filled  with  roots,  the  sooner  the  bulbs  will  come  into 
flower  after  they  are  brought  into  the  house.  Besides, 
without  a  healthy  root-growth,  there  will  never  be  a 
healthy  flower  spike ;  the  flowers  opening  close  down  to 


HYACINTH. 

the  bulb,  instead  of  being  raised  on  a  long  generous 
spike,  being  the  result  of  insufficient  root  action. 

Blooming  Hyacinths  in  Glasses. — For  flower- 
ing in  glasses,  the  largest  and  heaviest  bulbs  alone  should 
be  chosen,  as,  in  a  great  measure,  they  derive  their  nour- 
ishment from  their  own  substance,  which  is  quite  suffi- 
cient to  develop  their  flowers,  if  all  other  conditions  are 
favorable.  For  this  purpose,  as  in  growing  the  bulbs 
in  pots,  Si  healthy  root  growth  is  of  the  first  importance. 
To  secure  this  it  is  an  excellent  plan,  about  November  1st, 
to  place  the  bulbs  in  a  box  of  wet  sand,  say  two  inches 
in  depth.  The  bulbs  should  not  be  pressed  into  the 
sand  more  than  half  an  inch.  Put  the  box  where  it  is 
cool  and  dark,  and  the  roots  will  start  in  a  few  days ; 
when  they  are  half  an  inch  in  length,  the  bulbs  may  be 
put  in  the  glasses  where  they  are  to  grow.  Place  the 
glasses,  after  they  are  filled  with  water  enough  to  just 
touch  the  bulb,  in  a  dark  closet  until  the  roots  touch 
the  bottoms  of  the  glasses,  then  bring  to  the  light,  but 
never  where  the  glasses  will  receive  the  full  rays  of  the 
sun,  the  effect  of  which  is  to  heat  the  water  to  a  fatal 
degree.  A  rather  low  temperature  and  free  access  of 
pure  air  are  among  the  essential  conditions  of  growth. 
The  temperature  should  be  free  from  fluctuations.  The 
mantlepiece  is  an  unfit  place,  while  the  window-sash, 
where  the  glasses  get  the  full  force  of  the  sun  by  day, 
and  the  cold  drafts  of  air  at  night,  is  the  worst  place 
possible,  and  the  one  where  they  are  the  most  frequently 
met.  The  nearer  they  can  be  kept  in  a  temperature  of 
say  50°  F.,  the  better  will  be  the  results.  For  flowering 
in  glasses  the  single -varieties  are  always  to  be  preferred, 
as  they  come  into  flower  more  quickly  and  seem  to  thrive 
better  under  unnatural  conditions. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  of  the  Hyacinth  are 
extremely  numerous,  but  it  is  a  pleasure  to  say  that  the 
Dutch  descriptions  are  remarkably  accurate,  and  that 


150 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


variety  synonyms  are  exceedingly  rare.  In  making  a 
choice  for  the  garden,  individual  taste  in  color  alone  is 
to  be  considered ;  there  is  not  so  much  difference  in 


DOUBLE    HYACINTH. 


form  or  habit  in  most  of  the  varieties  as  to  make  it  an 
important  point  in  selection.  The  single  varieties  are 
greatly  to  be  preferred  to  the  double ;  they  have  longer 


HYACINTH.  151 

and  better  furnished  spikes,  and,  as  a  rule,  their  colors 
are  better  defined.  Two  exceptions  to  this  rule  may  be 
made  in  favor  of  La  Tour  D'Auvergne,  a  double  white, 
and  Eegina  Victoria,  a  double  red.  The  former  is  our 
first  choice,  whether  in  the  garden  or  for  pot  culture ; 
the  latter  is  a  good  second. 

For  general  cultivation  and  for  all  purposes,  the  fol- 
lowing twenty-five  sorts  we  consider  the  most  desirable, 
being  very  $stinct  in  their  respective  colors.  We  do  not 
admire  neutral  tints  in  .the  Hyacinth,  as  they  give  the 
flower  a  dirty  appearance.  There  are  but  few  truly  good 
yellows,  either  single  or  double ;  some  of  the  colors  are 
good,  but  the  spikes  are  short  and  the  bells  scattered. 
All  in  the  following  list  possess  the  most  positive  and 
striking  colors: 

SINGLE   RED   AND   PINK    HYACINTHS. 

Lord  Macaulay. — Clear  rose  with  carmine  stripes, 
a  good  show  variety. 

Madame  Hodgson. — Pale  pink,  a  large  and  well- 
formed  spike  and  a  sure  bloomer. 

Robert  Steiger. — A  fine  spike,  bright  red;  one  of 
the  best  for  bedding,  or  decorative  purposes. 

Von  Schiller. — Clear  salmon  pink,  with  crimson 
stripes ;  a  fine  pot  plant  for  decorative  purposes. 

SINGLE  WHITE. 

Alba  Super  bis  si  ma. — A  pure  white,  large  and 
compact  spike ;  a  fine  bedding  variety. 

La  Grandesse. — Pure  white,  a  long  and  hand- 
some spike ;  one  of  the  best  for  exhibition  purposes. 

Mont  Blanc. — Pure  white,  a  long  and  well-formed 
spike  suitable  for  all  methods  of  culture. 

SINGLE   BLUE. 

Charles  Dickens. — Light  clear  blue  shaded  with 
lilac ;  a  long,  well-formed  spike  and  one  of  the  best  in 
cultivation. 


152  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

Grand  Lilas. — Porcelain  blue;  a  very  pleasing 
variety. 

Mimosa. — Dark  purple;  very  distinct,  contrasting 
finely  with  the  red  and  white  sorts ;  a  valuable  bedder. 

SINGLE   LILAC   AND   MAUVE. 

Haydn. — Lilac-mauve,  very  distinct;  good  spike 
and  form. 

La  Unique. — Dark  violet ;  a  very  fine  spike. 

SINGLE   YELLOW. 

Bird  of  Paradise. — Clear  yellow,  and  long  spike; 
one  of  the  best  of  the  yellows. 

Ida. — Beautiful  primrose  yellow,  large  bells  on  a 
compact  spike  ;  an  excellent  variety. 

La  Citronniere. — Pale  yellow;  a  splendid  flower. 

DOUBLE   EED   AND  ROSE. 

Bouquet  Tendre  (Waterloo). — Deep  red  on  a  good 
spike,  and  early  ;  an  old  and  pleasing  variety. 

Lord  Wellington. — Pale  rose,  large  bells  and  hand- 
some spike  ;  a  showy  and  handsome  variety. 

Regina  Victoria. — Fine  clear  dark-rosy  pink;  a 
long  spike  and  bells  somewhat  loosely  arranged,  but  very 
pleasing. 

DOUBLE    WHITE. 

Anna  Maria. — Light  blush  with  purple  center ;  a 
good  spike  and  distinct. 

La  Tour  D'Auvergne. — A  clear  white  with  large 
bells  well  arranged  on  a  long  spike ;  one  of  the  best. 

Prince  of  Waterloo. — Pure  white,  long  and  hand- 
some spike  of  well-arranged  bells. 

DOUBLE   BLUE. 

Blocksberg. — Porcelain  with  a  white  stripe,  large 
bells  and  a  good  spike ;  a  standard  sort. 

Laurens  Koster. — Fine  dark  blue,  close  handsome 
spike ;  one  of  the  very  best  double  sorts. 


HYACINTH.  153 

DOUBLE  YELLOW. 

Jaune  Supreme.— Pure  citron  yellow,  very  double; 
a  fair  spike. 

Ophir  D'Or. — Deep  yellow;  an  extra  fine  flower. 

Hyacinths  for  Pots. — The  foregoing  selection  can- 
not be  surpassed  for  pot  culture  excepting,  perhaps,  that 
some  of  the  higher  priced  sorts  may  possibly  give  a  little 
larger  spike,  but  for  general  cultivation  those  named  will 
give  entire  Satisfaction. 

Hyacinths  for  Glasses.— The  following  twelve 
sorts  we  believe  to  be  the  best  for  glasses,  but  these  can- 
not be  depended  upon  for  good  spikes  because  of  the  un- 
natural condition  in  which  they  are  grown  and  the  lia- 
bility there  is  of  their  suffering  from  neglect :  Madame 
Hodgson  and  Robert  Steiger,  single  red ;  Alba  SuperUs- 
sima,  single  white;  Grand  Van  Vanqueur  and  Mont 
Blanc,  single  white  ;  Charles  Dickens,  single  blue ;  Grand 
Lilas,  single  porcelain-blue ;  Mimosa,  single  dark  blue ; 
Bird  of  Paradise,  single  yellow ;  La  Tour  D'Auvergne, 
double  white ;  Bouquet  Tendre,  double  red  ;  Laurens 
Rosier,  double  blue.  After  Hyacinths  have  been  grown, 
either  in  pots  or  glasses,  the  bulbs  are  of  no  further  use, 
and  should  be  thrown  away. 

Roman  Hyacinth.— This  is  a  distinct  species, 
Hyacinthus  romanus,  a  native  of  Greece,  largely  culti- 
vated in  the  south  of  "France,  and  far  more  extensively 
grown  in  this  country  for  cut  flowers  than  the  well-known 
Dutch  Hyacinth.  It  is  readily  forced,  and  the  bulb, 
although  much  smaller  than  that  of  the  ordinary  Hya- 
cinth, produces  several  flower  stalks.  Of  this  species 
there  is  a  blue  and  a  pink  variety,  popularly  known  as 
Parisian  Hyacinths.  These  are  but  little  used,  because  of 
their  colors,  white  being  the  only  color  in  that  form  that 
the  florists  can  use  to  advantage,  and  for  house  or  con- 
servatory decoration  their  flowers  do  not  contrast  as 
favorably  with  the  foliage  as  do  those  of  the  white. 


154 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS  -HOOTED  PLANTS. 


The  Roman  Hyacinth  is  specially  adapted  for  forcing, 
and  can  be  had  from  Christmas  until  spring,  with  very 
little  effort.  The  common  method  of  growing  it  for  cut 


ROMAN  HYACINTH. 


flowers  is  to  put  the  bulbs,  as  soor  as  received  from 
France,  in  flats  or  shallow  boxes,  say  three  inches  apart, 
using  the  soil  that  is  most  convenient.  Let  the  top  of 


HYACINTH.  155 

the  bulb  be  even  with  the  surface  of  the  soil;  water 
thoroughly,  then  place  the  flats  in  a  cold  frame,  or  shed, 
away  from  frost.  They  should  remain  in  this  condition 
at  least  four  weeks  before  they  are  brought  in  for  forcing. 
Heat  should  be  applied  gradually,  beginning  at  50°  and 
running  up  to  65°  or  70°  F.  To  get  flowers  for  Christ- 
mas, a  little  higher  temperature  will  be  required  than  is 
best  to  employ  for  a  general  crop.  For  a  succession, 
bring  in  a  iew  batch  every  two  weeks. 

The  Roman  Hyacinth  can  be  most  successfully  grown 
in  the  window-garden,  and  is  more  desirable  than  the 
large-flowered  varieties,  because  of  its  coming  into  bloom 
much  earlier.  For  this  purpose  a  four-inch  pot  can  be 
used  to  advantage.  Use  any  soil  from  the  garden ;  put 
three  bulbs  in  each  pot,  and  treat  in  all  other  respects  as 
the  Dutch  Hyacinth,  only  that  the  Roman  can  be  started 
by  the  first  of  November,  and  in  a  favorable  situation 
will  flower  by  Christmas.  They  can  just  as  well  be 
brought  on  in  shallow  boxes  if  a  greater  nu  mber  is  re- 
quired. The  only  care  necessary  in  the  house  is  to  pro- 
vide water  when  required,  and  to  keep  up  as  even  a  tem- 
perature as  possible.  A  check  from  want  of  water,  or 
because  of  too  low  a  temperature  will  prevent  a  perfect 
development  of  flowers.  After  flowering,  the  florists 
throw  the  bulbs  into  the  rubbish  heap,  which  is  the  only 
thing  to  do,  as  after  forcing  they  are  not  worth  saving. 
If  grown  more  carefully  in  flats  or  pots  until  the  bulbs 
are  matured,  then  planted  in  the  open  border,  they  will 
flower  moderately  well  for  a  number  of  years.  But  the 
room  required  is  of  more  value  than  the  cost  of  the  bulbs. 

Dutch-Roman  Hyacinth. — The  Dutch  growers 
are  now  competing  with  the  French  growers  with  the 
above  named  variety,  which  is  claimed  to  be  superior. 
Those  who  have  given  it  a  fair  trial  do  not  admit  its 
superiority,  and  say  that  it  is  simply  a  selection  of  small 
bulbs  of  extra  early  Dutch  Hyacinth.  "We  think  this  is  a 


156  BULBS  AND  TUBEBO  OS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

mistake,  and  believe  the  "  Dutch -Romans"  to  be  a  distinct 
variety  of  Hyacinthus  orientatis,  known  as  albulus  (small 
white)  quite  distinct  from  the  Roman.  Our  best  growers 
speak  well  of  this  for  a  second  crop,  both  as  regards  qual- 
ity of  flower,  and  the  price  for  which  it  can  be  obtained. 
It  requires  to  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  is  recom- 
mended for  the  Roman  Hyacinth. 

The  Persian  Hyacinth. — This  is  botanically 
known  as  Hyacinthus  amethystinus,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  species,  because  of  its  exquisitely- 
colored  flowers,  varying  from  white  to  lake.  It  is  by  no 
means  showy,  neither  will  it  compare  for  general  useful- 
ness with  any  of  the  other  species.  Its  flowers  are  small, 
on  a  delicate  stem ;  its  grace  and  color  is  what  commends 
it.  It  is  a  native  of  Spain,  Italy  and  Russia.  It  closely 
resembles  the  Scilla,  and  has  been  included  in  that  genus 
as  8.  patula.  Treat  the  same  as  the  Dutch  Hyacinth. 

The  Varieties  and  Synonyms  of  Hyacinths 
are  given  in  the  following  table: 

Californian  Hyacinth. — See  Brodisea.      Page  45. 

Cape  Hyacinth. — See  Scilla  brachyphilla. 

Dutch  Hyacinth.— See  Page  138. 

Dutch-Roman  Hyacinth. — See  Page  155. 

Fair  Haired  Hyacinth. — See  Muscari  comosum. 

Grape  Hyacinth. — See  Muscari  botryoides. 

Persian  Hyacinth. — See  above. 

Roman  Hyacinth.^See  Page  153. 

Star  Hyacinth. — See  Scilla  amcena. 

Starch  Hyacinth. — See  Muscari  racemosum. 

Tassel  Hyacinth. — See  Muscari  comosum. 

White  Cape  Hyacinth. — See  Galtonia  candicans, 
Page  97. 

Wild  American  Hyacinth.— See  Camassia  escu- 
lenta,  and  0.  Fraseri  (Page  51). 

Wild  Hyacinth. — See  Scilla  nutans. 

Winter  Hyacinth. — See  Scilla  autumnalis. 


HYDROT.ENIA — HTMEXOCALLIS.  157 

The  Hyacinth  ir  fabled  to !  5ve  sprung  forth  from  the 
blood  of  the  fair-haired  Hyacinth  us,  when  accidentally 
killed  by  the  quoit  of  Apollo.  Others  derive  it  from 
Cynthus,  one  of  the  names  of  the  god  himself,  associated 
with  violets — a  name,  too,  that  might  be  taken  to  be  ex- 
pressive of  the  surpassing  beauty  and  delightful  fragrance 
of  the  Hyacinth. 

HYDROT^NIA. 

A  syfionym  of  Tigridia. 

HYMENOCALUS. 

Many  of  the  species  that  comprise  this  family  were 
formerly  included  in  Choretis,  Ismene  and  Pancratium. 
H.  rotata  and  H.  speciosa  are  native  bulbs,  common  from 
North  Carolina  to  Florida,  and  also  in  the  West  Indies. 
They  are  so  closely  allied  to  Pancratium  as  not  to  be  dis- 
tinguished by  the  casual  observer.  They  are  all 
swamp  plants,  and  require  to  be  grown  in  the  green- 
house. Large  numbers  are  sold  under  the  name  of 
Cuban  Lilies.  The  flowers,  in  all  the  species,  are  white 
or  yellow,  and  of  the  same  general  character. 

The  Mexican  Lily  (H.  Choretis)  is  a  native  of  Texas 
and  Mexico.  It  grows  freely  in  a  light  sandy  soil  in  the 
open  border,  or  may  be  grown  in  pots  in  the  greenhouse. 
The  flowers  are  very  beautiful,  pure  white,  with  a  green 
eye  and  a  greenish  stripe.  The  bulbs  require  rest  from 
November  until  May,  during  which  time  they  should  be 
kept  dry  and  in  a  frost  proof  room. 

The  Peruvian  Daffodil  (Ismene)  is  remarkably  hand- 
some, and  should  be  grown  as  generally  as  the  Gladiolus, 
or  other  summer-flowering  bulbs.  It  thrives  in  the 
poorest  sandy  soil,  if  dry;  the  only  condition  it  does 
not  like  is  too  much  moisture.  The  bulbs  can  be  taken 
up  in  the  autumn,  and  stored  during  winter  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  Gladiolus.  One  of  the  two  cultivated 
species  is  H.  Amancaes,  the  sacred  flower  of  the  Peru- 


158  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

vians,  in  honor  of  which  they  hold  every  year  a  kind  of 
religions  ceremony,  in  which  holy  images  are  strangely 
mixed  up  with  scenes  of  dancing  and  feasting.  On  the 
24.th  of  June  the  inhabitants  of  Lima  sally  forth,  on 
horseback,  in  carriages  and  on  foot,  and,  passing  through 
the  Almeda,  or  common  promenade,  they  proceed  to 
some  hills  about  two  miles  from  the  city,  which,  though 
usually  bare  of  vegetation,  are  then  yellow  with  the  flow- 
ers of  the  Amancaes.  On  the  sandy  or  volcanic  soil  of 
these  hills  innumerable  booths  are  erected ;  and  here  the 
visitors  take  refreshment,  after  walking  to  and  fro,  and 
decorating  themselves  and  their  horses  with  the  flowers 
of  the  Amancaes.  The  amusements  of  the  day  consist 
principally  of  music  and  dancing,  and  these  are  strangely 
mixed  up  with  religious  ceremonies.  In  the  evening 
the  crowds  return  to  the  city,  so  laden  with  flowers  as  to 
look,  in  the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  like  a  stream  of 
molten  gold.  The  other  Peruvian  Daffodil  is  H.  cala- 
tMnum,  a  very  handsome  species  from  Buenos  Ayres, 
which  has  large,  pure  white,  delightfully  fragrant  flow- 
ers. Its  culture  is  the  same  as  the  foregoing,  but  it  is  a 
more  vigorous  plant,  and  will  grow  in  other  than  sand, 
which  the  first  named  species  will  not.  It  makes  a 
charming  pot  plant. 

HYPOXIS. 

Star   Grass. 

A  small  genus  of  tuberous-rooted  plants  widely  dis- 
seminated, and  differing  considerably  in  character.  The 
only  species  worthy  of  cultivation  is  H.  erecta,  our  com- 
mon Star-grass,  which  is  a  beautiful  little  plant  indige- 
nous from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Great  Plains,  and  south- 
ward. Its  flowers  are  bright  yellow  with  brownish  stripe 
on  the  outside  of  the  petals,  and  though  they  are  small, 
yet  from  their  great  abundance  and  the  length  of  time 
they  continue,  they  are  worthy  a  place  in  every  garden. 


IMAXTOPHYLLUM — INDIAN   SfiOT.  159 

They  are  among  our  earliest  wild  flowers,  and  none  are 
more  beautiful.  In  the  fields  the  flower  stems  are  from 
four  inches  to  a  foot  in  higbt.  Under  cultivation  the 
flowers  are  larger  and  the  stems  or  scapes  grow  higher. 
They  increase  rapidly  by  offsets. 

IMANTOPHYLLUM. 

No  little  confusion  has  existed  in  the  nomenclature 
of  plants  o|  this  genus.  The  genus  has  been  considered 
a  synonym  of  Olivia,  both  names  having  been  given  to  the 
same  species.  Between  /.  miniatum  and  C.  nobilis, 
which  have  been  considered  the  same  species,  there  is  a 
marked  difference  in  the  flowers ;  those  of  the  former- 
are  erect  and  much  larger  than  those  of  the  latter, 
which  are  drooping  and  of  a  darker  color.  In  general 
appearance  they  closely  resemble  each  other,  and  the 
same  treatment  is  required  for  both.  See  Olivia,  Page  58. 

I.  cyrtanthiflorum,  (Cyrtanthus-flowered). — Flow- 
ers clear,  rich  salmon,  or  light  flame-colored.  This  is  a 
supposed  hybrid  between  the  Olivia  nobilis  and  /. 
miniatum. 

I.  miniatum. — A  native  of  Natal,  having  fine  deep 
orange  flowers,  lower  parts  deep  buff.  /.  m.  splendens 
is  a  variety  with  brighter  and  deeper  colored  flowers. 
There  are  numerous  hybrids  said  to  be  very  attractive, 
which  are  but  little  cultivated. 

INDIAN  SHOT. 
See  Canna.     Page  52. 

INDIAN  TURNIP. 
See  Arisaema.     Page  31. 

IRIS. 

Fleur  de  Lis  or  Flower  de  Luce. 
In  the  long  list  of  flowering  plants  there  does  not 
appear  a  genus  so  widely  distributed,  so  generally  known, 


160  BULBS  AND  TLTBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

so  variable  in  character,  and  at  the  same  time  so  readily 
distinguished  as  the  Iris,  the  type  of  the  natural  order 
Iridacece.  The  species  abound  in  various  parts  of  the 
globe,  growing  under  the  greatest  variety  of  conditions, 
mostly  in  damp  or  marshy  situations ;  but  some  even  in 
dry  and  gravelly  soils.  In  the  various  species  may  be 
found  some  of  our  most  charming  and  desirable  herba- 
ceous plants,  suited  to  all  soils  and  conditions,  either  in 
sun  or  shade.  Some  of  the  species  have  tuberous  roots, 
others  creeping  root-stalks  or  rhizomes ;  while  others, 
including,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful  species  of  all, 
have  fibrous  roots.  The  flowers  of  each  and  all,  widely 
as  the  plants  may  differ  in  form  or  habit,  have  a  form 
and  beauty  peculiarly  their  own.  They  have  been  very 
appropriately  considered  the  connecting  link  between 
the  Lilies  and  the  Orchids. 

Bulbous  Iris. — This  is  the  first  of  the  three  large 
and  distinct  sections  into  which  the  Iris  genus  has  been 
divided.  These  are  Bulbous,  Tuberous  and  Japanese. 

I.  Vulgare  (Jftphium,  or  Spanish). — This  is  one 
of  the  most  common  species  known  to  the  trade,  the 
bulbs  being  annually  sent  out  with  the  Dutch  bulbs 
in  autumn.  The  flowers  are  very  beautiful,  and  of  va- 
rious colors,  quite  fragrant,  appearing  in  Jnne.  These 
bulbs  are  classed  perfectly  hardy,  but  they  will  not  endure 
much  frost ;  perhaps  it  is  because  they  exhaust  them- 
selves in  reproduction,  as  they  increase  rapidly  by  off- 
sets. When  the  offsets  are  not  required  for  propagation, 
the  foreign  gardeners  push  them  off  as  soon  as  they 
appear,  in  order  that  the  bulbs  may- not  be  weakened. 
The  leaves  remain  green  the  entire  winter,  and  for  their 
protection  the  plants  should  be  slightly  covered  with 
leaves  in  Autumn,  in  a  changeable  climate.  Most  of 
the  bulbs  of  this  species,  sold  as  varieties,  are  seedlings, 
hybrids  between  this  species  and  /.  xipMoides. 

I.  xiphioides  (/.  angUca,  English). — The  bulbs 
of  this  species  somewhat  resemble  the  foregoing,  but  are 


IRIS.  161 

larger  and  more  nearly  round.  The  name  is  a  misnomer, 
as  the  plant  is  a  native  of  the  Pyrenees,  bub  has  been 
common  in  English  gardens  since  1571.  The  flowers  are 
exceedingly  showy,  produced  on  strong,  erect  stems  about 
two  feet  high,  from  one  to  three  on  a  stem.  The  flowers 
are  of  various  colors,  blue,  white,  lavender,  crimson  and 
yellow.  Like  the  foregoing,  the  bulbs  should  be  planted  in 
autumn,  as  quickly  as  they  can  be  procured.  They  are 
not  so  ch«ap  as  the  Spanish  Iris,  because  they  do  not 
increase  as  rapidly. 

I.  persica  (Persian). — This  is  one  of  the  earliest 
and  the  most  beautiful  of  the  bulbous  species.  It  comes 
into  flower  before  the  Crocus  disappears  and  is  equally  as 
hardy.  It  is  a  native  of  Persia,  whence  it  was  introduced 
into  England  by  the  Queen  of  Charles  I.  Bulbs  of  this 
species  may  be  treated  in  all  respects  as  the  Hyacinth. 
They  will  flower  equally  well  in  pots,  or  in  water  in 
glasses  ;  in  this  manner  they  may  be  made  to  flower  all 
through  the  winter.  The  species  are  dwarf -growing; 
flowers  small,  of  various  shades  of  blue. 

I.  pavonia  (Peacock). — Botanically  this  species 
may  now  be  found  under  Moraea.  We  prefer  placing 
it  where  it  is  popularly  known.  This  is  one  of  the  small- 
est of  the  species,  but  very  beautiful ;  flowers  pure  white 
blotched  with  blue.  The  bulbs  are  not  hardy,  but  can 
be  grown  in  the  cool  greenhouse  or  in  a  cold  frame. 

I.  tuberosa  (Snake's  Head). — As  its  name  im- 
plies, this  variety  is  tuberous  rather  than  bulbous,  but 
more  nearly  like  the  latter  than  the  tuberous-rooted  spe- 
cies. The  flowers  are  beautiful  and  curious,  green  and 
velvety  black ;  they  are  very  early,  and  should  have  the 
protection  of  a  frame,  as  the  frost  would  kill  the  flowers, 
if  it  did  not  injure  the  plant. 

I.  susiana  (Chalcedonian). — This  is  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  of  the  species,  and  has,  like  the  preced- 
ing, tuberous  rather  than  bulbous  roots.  It  is  a  native 
11 


162  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

of  Turkey,  and  has  long  been  popularly  known  as  the 
Turkish  Flower-de-Luce.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  plants 
of  the  English  gardens,  and  was  described  by  Gerard  in 
1629  as  follows  : — "The  greate  Turkie  Flower-de-Luce 
hath  divers  heads  of  long  and  broad  fresh  greene  leaves, 
yet  not  so  broad  us  many  of  those  that  follow,  one  folded 
within  another  at  the  bottome,  as  all  other  of  the  Flower- 
de-Luces  are ;  from  the  middle  of  some  of  these  heads 
(for  every  head  of  leaves  beareth  not  a  flower)  riseth  up  a 
round,  stiffe  stalke,  two  foote  high,  at  the  top  wherof 
standeth  one  flower  (for  I  never  observed  it  to  beare  two), 
the  largest  almost,  but  rarest  of  all  the  rest,  consisting  of 
nine  leaves,  like  the  others  that  follow,  but  of  the  colour 
almost  of  a  snake's  skinne,  it  is  so  diversely  spotted ;  for 
the  three  lower  falling  leaves  are  very  large,  of  a  deepe, 
or  dark  purple  colour,  almost  blacke,  full  of  grayish 
spots,  strakes  and  lines  through  the  whole  leaves,  with  a 
black  thru  me  or  freeze  in  the  middle  of  each  of  them  ; 
the  three  arched  leaves  that  cover  them  are  of  the  same 
dark  purple  colour,  yet  a  little  paler  at  the  sides ;  the 
three  upper  leaves  are  very  large,  also,  and  of  the  same 
colour  with  the  lower  leaves,  but  a  little  more  lively  and 
fresh,  being  speckled  and  straked  with  whiter  spots  and 
lines ;  which  leaves  being  laid  in  water  will  color  the 
water  a  violet  colour ;  but  if  a  little  alume  be  put  therin, 
and  then  wrung  or  pressed  and  the  juice  of  these  leaves 
dryed  in  the  shadow,  will  give  a  colour  almost  as  deep 
as  Indigo,  and  may  serve  as  shadows  in  limming  excel- 
lent well ;  the  flower  hath  no  scent  that  can  be  perceived, 
but  is  only  commendable  for  the  beauty  and  variety 
therof ;  it  seldome  beareth  seedes  in  these  cold  countries, 
but  when  it  doth  it  is  contained  in  greate  heads,  being 
brownish  and  round,  but  not  so  flat  as  the  other  sorts ; 
the  roots  are  more  browne  on  the  outside,  and  growing 
tuberous  thicke,  as  all  others  that  are  kept  in  gardens." 
While  this  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  species  of 
the  Iris,  it  is  a  little  difficult  to  manage  in  our  gardens; 


IRIS. 


163 


not  alone  because  of  its  not  being  hardy,  but  if  left  in 
the  ground  after  its  leaves  have  died  down  in  the  spring, 
it  is  liable  to  make  an  autumn  growth,  which  is  fatal  to 
its  flowering  the  following  spring.  It  should  be  grown 
either  in  a  frame  or  in  a  cool  greenhouse.  It  is  remark- 
ably beautiful  in  the  bouse,  as  a  pot  plant.  The  only 
care  necessary  is  to  let  it  grow,  when  it  starts,  and  give 
it  perfect  rest  after  flowering. 

Tuberous-Rooted  Iris. — The  most  prominent  in 
this  class  is  /.  germanica,  or  German  Iris,  and  it  is  one 


GERMAN    IRIS,    PLANT  AND   FLOWER. 

of  the  most  valuable  of  the  early  or  medium  early  flower- 
ing sorts  for  the  herbaceous  border.  The  flowers  are 
large  and  showy,  and  produced  so  freely  that  the  plants, 
in  May,  are  a  mass  of  blue,  bright  yellow,  purple  of  all 
shades,  white,  and  all  the  shades  of  color  that  the  vari- 
ous combinations  will  produce.  When  care  and  system 
have  been  employed  in  planting,  a  mass  of  German  Iris 
is  a  gorgeous  sight.  This  species  is  perfectly  hardv,  but 
will  be  greatly  benefited  by  a  light  mulching  of  leaves 


164  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

or  coarse  litter  in  autumn.  It  is  not  at  all  particular  as 
to  soil,  preferring  a  rather  heavy  and  moist  one,  but  will 
give  great  satisfaction  in  any  soil  or  situation.  The 
tubers  may  be  planted,  either  in  spring  or  early  autumn, 
the  latter  being  preferable,  as  they  start  very  early  in 
the  spring.  Plant  about  a  foot  apart  each  way,  and  they 
will  soon  completely  cover  the  ground.  Propagation  is 
by  division,  or  from  seed.  The  rapidity  with  which  plants 
can  be  produced  from  seed,  and  the  great  variation  of 
color  in  the  seedlings,  none  of  which  are  poor,  has  been 
the  means  of  increasing  this  class  to  an  almost  unlimited 
extent.  A  choice  of  these  the  buyer  must  make  for 
himself,  color  or  combination  being  the  principal1  object, 
there  being  a  marked  uniformity  in  the  size  of  the  plants. 

I.  cristata  (Crested). — This  is  a  native  American 
species  of  very  dwarf  habit,  abundant  in  the  mountain 
regions  of  Virginia,  Kentucky  and  southward.  The 
flowers  are  a  delicate  lilac,  with  yellow  throat,  and  finely 
crested,  appearing  early  in  May.  As  a  border  plant  it 
has  no  superior ;  it  is  perfectly  hardy  and  wonderfully 
floriferous.  It  is  rapidly  increased  by  division,  and  will 
thrive  anywhere.  There  are  more  than  fifty  other  spe- 
cies of  this  tuberous-rooted  class. 

Japanese  Iris  (Iris  Imvigata,  I.  Kcempferi). — This 
forms  a  distinct  type,  and  is  the  most  valuable  of 
the  genus  for  garden  decoration.  The  plants  are  per- 
fectly hardy,  and  strong  growers.  The  flower  stalks,  if 
planted  in  good  soil,  will  grow  fully  four  feet  high,  with 
abundance  of  bloom.  The  flowers  are  proportionately 
large  ;  they  open  perfectly  flat,  are  from  six  to  ten  inches 
in  diameter,  some  single,  some  double,  in  various  shades 
of  color ;  pure  white,  dark  purple,  maroon,  violet  and 
plum,  with  very  distinct  pencilings  and  markings ; 
some  are  strangely  and  beautifully  marbled.  To  have 
these  in  perfection  the  soil  should  be  moist,  deep  and 
They  are  gross  feeders,  but  pay  for  their  keeping. 


IRIS. 


165 


TYPES  OF  THE    JAPANESE   IRIS. 


166  BULBS   AXD    TUBEROUS-HOOTED   PLANTS. 

While  they  succeed  finely  in  broad  sunlight,  the  warm 
sun  of  June,  when  they  are  in  flower,  quickly  destroys 
the  delicate  flowers.  To  guard  against  this,  they  should 
be  slightly  protected  on  the  south  and  west.  If  they 
can  be  planted  in  moist  ground,  near  the  edge  of  a 
stream,  perfection  will  be  reached.  If  planted  in  good 
soil,  they  should  be  divided  as  often  as  once  in  three 
years,  as  they  do  not  bloom  as  well  when  the  roots  be- 
come massed,  possibly  because  they  cannot  get  suffi- 
cient nourishment  when  in  large  clumps.  A  portion 
only,  should  be  divided  each  year,  as  it  takes  one  year 
to  make  strong  crowns  for  the  next  year's  flowers.  This 
species  is  also  grown  readily  from  seed,  which  should  be 
sown  in  early  spring,  in  drills,  as  we  sow  peas ;  trans- 
plant the  following  spring  into  rows  three  feet  apart, 
the  plants  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows.  With  good  culti- 
vation, nearly  every  plant  will  flower  the  second  year. 
A  large  mass  of  these  seedlings,  no  two  of  which  will  be 
precisely  alike,  but  all  good,  has  no  superior  in  the  floral 
world.  After  the  first  flowers  appear,  such  as  are  the 
least  desirable  can  be  thrown  out,  giving  the  remainder 
a  better  chance  to  grow,  which  they  will  do  so  rapidly 
as  to  form  a  perfect  mass  in  two  years  thereafter. 

ISMENE. 

See  Peruvian  Daffodil  (Hymenocallis  Amancaes), 
Page  157. 

IXIA. 

This  interesting  genus  of  Cape  bulbs  now  includes 
about  thirty  species,  and  very  many  garden  varieties,  the 
result  of  cross-fertilization,  a  work  that,  in  this  case,  has 
been  unusually  successful,  as  the  size  of  the  flowers  has 
been  materially  increased  without  loss  of  vigor  in  the 
plant,  or  in  the  wonderful  colors  and  markings  of  the 
flowers.  Since  the  introduction  of  this  genus,  some 
twelve  others  have  been  formed  out  of  it ;  in  doing  this 


IXIA.  167 

come  very  fine  distinctions  were  made  by  the  specialist. 
1  he  species  are  all  of  great  beauty,  producing  flowers  of 
many  colors, — pink,  rose,  crimson,  orange,  yellow, 
cream-col  ~r,  white  and  variegated.  In  many  varieties 
these  colors  are  strangely  blended,  but  always  clear,  and 
the  markings  entirely  distinct.  They  make  splendid 
pot  plants  for  the  conservatory  or  greenhouse  ;  in  fact, 
there  are  but  few  plants  more  showy.  They  should  be 
potted,  sa/'twelve  in  a  six  inch  pot,  in  rich,  light  soil, 
in  October,  and  set  aside  until  they  commence  to  grow, 
wrhen  they  should  be  brought  into  full  light,  in  a  moder- 
ately warm  greenhouse.  They  will  come  into  flower  in 
midwinter,  and  remain  objects  of  great  beauty  for  some 
weeks.  After  flowering,  and  the  bulbs  have  perfected 
their  growth,  they  should  be  dried  off,  and  kept  dry  and 
dark  until  the  first  of  October,  when  they  should  be 
repotted.  The  offsets,  which  are  produced  freely,  should 
be  thrown  away,  as  they  do  not  flower  until  the  second 
year,  and  the  bulbs  are  so  cheap  that  it  does  not  pay  to 
grow  them.  These  bulbs  can  also  be  grown  in  a  cold 
frame,  but  they  must  be  insured'  against  both  frost  and 
excessive  moisture.  If  grown  in  a  frame,  the  bulbs 
should  be  planted  two  inches  apart  and  three  inches 
deep.  Few  of  the  species  are  in  cultivation,  the  garden 
varieties  having  superseded  them.  The  following,  how- 
ever, are  well  worth  growing : 

I.  aulica. — Tall,  pink,  eighteen  inches,  or  two  feet 
high,  flowering  in  April  and  May. 

I.  conica. — An  orange  colored  species,  about  a  foot 
high,  flowering  in  April  and  May. 

I.  crispa. — A  curled  leaved  blue  sort,  flowering  in 
April  and  May. 

I.  erecta. — White,  about  one  and  one-half  feet 
high,  flowering  in  May  and  June.  There  is  also  a  flesh- 
colored  (incarnata),  and  yellow  (luted]  variety. 

I.  incarnata. — Rich  flesh-colored,  flowering  in 
June  and  July,  nine  inches  high. 


168  BULBS   AND    TUBEROUS  HOOTED   PLANTS. 

I.  leucantha. — Fine  white,  May  flowering,  eight- 
een inches  high. 

I.  linear  is. — Linear-shaped  leaves,  flowers  white, 
flowering  in  April  and  May. 

I.  maculata. — A  white  and  brown  spotted  species, 
about  a  foot  high,  flowering  in  May  and  June. 

I.  monadelpha. — This  blue  Ixia  has  the  flowers 
gathered  together  in  bundles,  and  is  dwarf  and  beautiful. 

I.  ochroleuca. — A  cream-colored  species. 

I.  patens. — This  is  a  spreading-flowered  pink  spe- 
cies, blooming  in  April,  about  one  foot  high. 

I.  Scillaris. — A  various  colored  squill-like  flower, 
and  one  of  the  very  earliest,  flowering  in  January  and 
February. 

IXIOLIRION. 

A  small  genus  of  very  pretty  little  plants,  natives  of 
Syria,  producing,  in  early  spring,  delicate  tufts  of  pale 
blue  flowers.  They  are  rarely -seen  in  cultivation,  their 
place  being  taken  by  more  showy  plants.  They  grow 
as  freely  as  the  Crocus,  and  are  increased  by  offsets. 

JACK  IN  THE  PULPIT. 

See  Ariscema  triphyllum,  Page  31. 
JACOBEAN  LILY. 
See  Sprekelia,  Page  22. 

JONQUIL.    ; 
See  Narcissus  Jonquilla. 

LACHENALIA. 

Cape  Cowslips. 

A  rather  large  genus  of  rather  pretty  Cape  bulbs  of 
easy  culture,  preferring  a  light  sandy  soil  and  the  cool 
greenhouse.  The  plants  are  small,  flower-scapes  erect, 
bearing  numerous  pendulous  flowers,  yellow  and  green, 
or  scarlet  and  green ;  more  curious  than  beautiful.  The 


LAPEYROUSIA— LEUCOCORYNE.  169 

foliage  of  some  of  the  species  is  prettily  variegated. 
They  are  readily  increased  by  offsets.  Like  all  Cape 
bulbs,  they  require  active  growth,  or  absolute  rest.  Being 
the  first  bulbs  to  flower  in  the  winter  is  an  inducement 
to  their  cultivation.  The  best  of  the  species  are  : 

L.  anguinea. — White,  with  variegated  foliage. 

L.  luteola. — Yellow. 

L.  pendula. — Scarlet  and  green. 

L.  tricolor. — Red,  green  and  yellow;  very  pretty. 

L.  uniflora. — Green. 

LAPEYROUSIA. 

Peyrousia  or  Oveida. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  bulbs,  flowers  white,  blue, 
violet  or  pink.  Closely  resembling  the  Ixias,  Page  166  ; 
the  plants  require  the  same  general  treatment.  When 
plants  are  grown  for  their  real  beauty,  these  will  become 
generally  cultivated. 

LEUCOCORYKE. 

A  genus  of  small,  low-growing  Liliaceous  plants, 
with  large  flowers,  from  South  America;  blooming  in 
early  autumn  if  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Glad- 
iolus ;  they  are  also  beautiful  pot  plants  for  the  conserva- 
tory. If  planted  closely  together  in  the  border,  their 
white  and  lilac  flowers  make  a  beautiful  display. 

LEUCOIUM. 

The  Snoivflake,  or  Erinosma. 

This  genns  of  handsome  spring  and  summer  flower- 
ing bulbs  was  formerly  included  with  Acis  and  Erinos- 
ma, but  was  separated  by  Dean  Herbert,  the  acknowl- 
edged authority  on  bulbs  and  tuberous-rooted  plants. 
The  genus  now  includes  the  following  species : 

L.  vernum  (Spring  Snowflake,  or  St.  Agnes' 
flower). — A  hardy  bulb,  growing  from  twelve  to  eighteen 


170  BULBS   AND    TUBEBOUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

inches  high,  producing  very  elegant  and  delightfully  fra- 
grant flowers,  pure  white,  with  a  green  spot  on  each 
petal  near  the  point.  The  flowers  resemble  the  Snow- 
drop, but  are  much  larger,  and  appear  about  a  month 
Liter.  It  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  early  flowering 
bulbs,  and  is  suitable  for  rock-work  or  borders.  The 
plants  delight  in  a  sheltered,  partially  shaded  situation, 
and  a  light,  well  drained  soil.  This  species  is  indigenous 
to  Central  Europe,  abounding  in  woods  and  shaded  sit- 
uations. It  was  introduced  in  1596,  and  was  dedicated 
to  St.  Agnes.  In  Parkinson's  Herbal  it  is  described  as 
the  Great  Early  Bulbous  Violet.  It  is  rapidly  propa- 
gated by  offsets.  See  Engraving,  Page  96. 

L.  sestivum  (The  Summer  Snowflake). — A  very 
pretty  drooping  flower,  with  bright  green  spots  on  its 
white  petals ;  but  it  is  much  less  ornamental  than  the 
spring  Snowflake.  The  leaves  of  this  species  are  of  a 
bright  yellowish  green ;  a  rather  uncommon  condition,  as 
the  leaves  of  most  bulbs  have  a  bluish  tinge,  except  when 
they  are  beginning  to  decay.  It  is  a  native  of  Europe, 
flowers  in  June,  and  is  propagated  by  offsets.  Cultiva- 
tion is  the  same  as  for  the  foregoing  species. 

LIBERTIA. 

A  beautiful  genus  of  Iridaceous  plants,  natives  of 
Australia,  Tasmania,  Xew  Zealand  and  China.  But 
few  of  the  species  are  what  might  be  termed  half-hardy. 
They  are  charming  plants  when  they  can  be  grown  in 
the  border,  but  will  not  endure  much  frost.  They  are 
not  adapted  to  greenhouse  culture. 

L.  formosa. — A  beautiful  plant,  either  for  sum- 
mer or  winter,  owing  to  the  color  of  its  foliage,  which  is 
a  dark  shining  green,  and  it  produces  spikes  of  flowers 
of  snowy  whiteness,  with  a  delicacy  of  some  of  the  finer 
Orchids.  It  is  neat,  dwarf  and  compact,  and  has  flow- 
ers much  larger  than  those  of  the  other  species. 


LILY.  171 

L.  ixioides. — A  handsome  New  Zealand  evergreen 
species,  with  narrow  grassy  foliage  and  small  white  flow- 
ers. The  plants  require  a  warm  border  of  light  soil ; 
they  will  also  thrive  in  the  rockery,  and  are  rapidly 
propagated  by  seeds,  or  careful  division  in  spring. 

LILY. 

Lilium. 

We  give  to  the  lily  a  large  space,  because  it  is  first 
in  importance  in  the  bulb  garden,  in  the  history  of  flow- 
ering plants,  and  in  the  hearts  of  all  true  lovers  of  the 
beautiful  in  floral  form  and  color.  It  is,  moreover,  the 
best  representative  of  the  natural  order  to  which  it 
belongs,  which  includes  not  only  the  most  remarkable 
hardy  herbaceous  plants,  but  also  greenhouse  plants  and 
important  vegetables.  The  order  Liliacece  contains 
more  than  one  hundred  and  eighty  genera,  and  nearly 
twenty-five  hundred  species,  the  best  known  of  which, 
besides  the  Lily,  are  the  Hyacinth,  Tulip,  Agapanthus, 
Frittilaria,  Scilla  and  the  Onion.  The  Lily  derives  its 
name  from  the  Celtic  word,  li,  signifying  whiteness ;  the 
Lily  having  long  been  considered  an  emblem  of  white-  > 
ness  and  purity. 

The  genus  Lilium  embraces  about  fifty  distinct  spe- 
cies, most  of  which  belong  to  the  northern  hemisphere, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  the  few  found  in  the  moun- 
tains of  sub-tropical  Asia,  all  the  species  belong  to 
the  temperate  regions.  North  America  furnishes  a 
large  number  of  ornamental  and  useful  species,  all  of 
which  are  highly  honored  in  foreign  lands.  Japan 
has  furnished,  by  far,  the  largest  number  of  beau- 
tiful species  under  cultivation,  as  L.  auratum,  L. 
speciosum  (erroneously  known  as  L.  lancifolium),  Z. 
Leiclitlinii,  L.  Brownii,  L.  tigrinum,  and  L.  elegans 
(Thunbergianum),  with  its  synonyms.  The  Lilium 
candidum,  the  chaste  beauty  and  grace  of  which  is  not 


172  BULBS   AND    TUBEKOUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

equalled  by  that  of  any  other  flower,  comes  from  the 
Levant.  Asia  furnishes  the  L.  clialcedonicum  and  the 
L.  monadelphum,  the  latter  varying  in  some  respects 
slightly,  and  sold  under  several  specific  names ;  Siberia 
furnishes  the  lovely  little  L.  tenuifolium,  which  is 
there  used  as  an  article  of  food  ;  most  of  the  other  spe- 
cies are  scattered  over  Europe.  Thus,  it  will  be  seen, 
/the  species  have  a  wide  geographical  range.  With  the 
|  exception  of  those  found  in  Japan  and  California,  within 
certain  limits  the  species  bear  a  close  resemblance  in 
their  generic  characters.  In  Japan  nearly  every  form 
and  color  the  genus  affords  is  to  be  found,  with  some 
peculiarities  exclusively  her  own ;  characters  that  go  to 
make  up  flowers  superior  in  point  of  true  beauty  and 
loveliness  to  any  of  the  species  native  elsewhere,  always 
excepting  L.  candidum,  which  has  no  equal. 

In  each  of  the  species  there  is  a  marked  variation  in 
the  color  and  shape  of  the  flowers,  in  the  height  and  gen- 
eral habit  of  the  plant ;  though  not  enough  to  be  termed 
specific,  yet  sufficient  to  establish  a  variety  entitled  to  a 
distinctive  name.  By  systematic  selection  the  grower 
has  been  enabled  to  multiply  varieties  to  an  almost  un- 
limited extent.  One  dealer  in  Holland  has  listed  in  his 
catalogue  fifty  varieties  of  Thunbergianum,  nearly  as 
many  of  Umbellatum,  thirty-five  varieties  of  Speciosum 
(Lancifolium),  twelve  of  Tigrinum,  eight  of  Candidum, 
and  so  on  through  the  list.  In  either  case  from  one  to 
six  varieties  would  fairly  represent  the  species  and  avoid 
great  confusion  in  nomenclature.  The  multiplication  of 
varieties  of  the  Lily  has  caused  the  beginner  sad  annoy- 
ance ;  his  unpracticed  eye  fails  to  discern  the  fine  shades 
and  markings,  that  seem  so  important  to  the  enthusi- 
astic grower,  and  he  naturally  concludes  that  he  has  but 
one  variety  under  several  names.  In  a  measure,  he  is 
correct,  as  is  any  one  that  buys  any  number  of  scarlet 
Pelargoniums,  or  Verbenas,  to  which  the  grower  has  given 


LILY.  173 

as  many  distinctive  names,  when  none  other  could  possi- 
bly see  the  points  of  difference.  The  Lily  is  one  of  the 
few  plants  that  we  think  has  never  been  improved  by 
hybridization,  or  cross-fertilization.  Efforts  without 
number  have  been  made  in  this  direction,  many  of 
which  we  have  watched  with  the  greatest  interest  and 
with  the  closest  attention,  yet  we  cannot  note  a  single 
instance  where  there  has  been  the  slightest  improvement 
in  the  flowe?,  in  any  respect.  On  the  contrary,  we  have 
usually  noticed  a  decrease  in  the  vigor  of  the  plant,  and 
the  quality  of  the  flower.  It  seems  to  us  that  every  step 
in  this  direction  has  been  a  step  backward  ;  that  nature 
has  exhausted  her  resources  in  the  perfection  of  the 
species,  and  regards  as  an  interference  all  efforts  of  man 
to  improve  her  work.  There  are  now  under  cultivation 
many  seedlings  from  the  species  that,  in  some  points  of 
marking,  are  to  be  preferred  to  the  parent ;  this  we  con- 
sider the  result  of  their  natural  tendency  to  variation, 
rather  than  the  result  of  any  systematic  effort  for  im- 
provement. High  cultivation,  which  includes  careful 
protection  against  cold,  heat,  drouth  and  water,  all  of 
which  points  will  be  duly  considered,  is  the  great  secret 
of  improvement ;  a  proper  amount  of  attention  in  this 
direction  will  increase  the  vigor  of  the  plants,  the  size, 
number  and  general  character  of  the  flowers. 

It  does  not  seem  necessary  to  improve,  or,  rather, 
to  attempt  an  improvement  on  that  which  is  already 
perfect,  as  the  Lily  is,  wherever  found  in  its  native 
habitat.  Nature  has  endowed  the  Lily  with  every  ele- 
ment of  grace  and  beauty,  not  only  in  outline,  but  in 
color,  or  the  happy  blending  of  colors,  in  forms  most 
varied  and  beautiful,  in  fragrance  delightful;  in  short, 
in  all  the  characters  essential  to  real  beauty.  Certainly, 
the  ease  with  which  many  varieties  produced  their 
rapid  increase,  has  placed  them  in  the  list  of  common 
plants,  as  though  a  plant  must  be  difficult  to  manage,  or 


174  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

that  any  given  color  loses  its  beauty  in  proportion  to  the 
increase  of  its  quantity.  As  an  example,  we  do  not 
think  there  is  a  more  beautiful  form  in  the  garden  than 
the  Tigrinum,  when  properly  grown;  neither  do  we 
think  there  is  a  color  more  showy  or  pleasing  than  that 
of  its  flowers,  and,  if  rare,  none  would  be  more  eagerly 
sought.  Yet  this  plant  is  usually  regarded  as  a  weed. 
The  limit  of  perfection  with  the  Lily,  as  with  many  other 
plants,  is  to  give  it  all  the  attention  necessary,  both  in 
place  and  cultivation,  to  enable  it  to  reach  that  perfec- 
tion which  marks  its  growth,  unaided,  in  its  own  habitat. 
Any  change  of  color,  or  form,  from  the  original,  disturbs 
that  harmony  of  arrangement  necessary  to  the  highest 
development  of  beauty. 

Cultivation  of  the  Lily. — Many  amateurs  and 
professional  gardeners  experience  considerable  difficulty 
in  cultivating  the  more  valuable  varieties,  which  include 
many  of  those  of  recent  introduction,  and,  notwithstand- 
ing that  seemingly  every  precaution  is  taken  to  protect 
and  secure  them  from  injury  during  the  winter  season, 
it  is  found  that  very  many  perish  ;  and  others,  though 
preserved  alive,  are  maintained  in  such  a  sickly  condi- 
tion that  they  never  yield  a  perfect  flower.  It  is  but 
natural  to  suppose  that  for  these  injurious  effects  there 
must  be  an  exciting,  vital  cause.  This  we  have  long 
and  patiently  sought  for,  and  will  explicitly  give  the 
results  of  our  investigation  as  briefly  as  possible;  and 
having  shown  the  cause  of  failure,  the  remedy  will  be 
obvious. 

Lilies  are  not  Hardy. — The  principal  cause  of 
failure  in  cultivating  Lilies  lies  in  over-estimating  their 
hardiness,  their  power  to  endure  the  rigors  of  the  winter. 
It  is  the  general  opinion  of  those  authorized  to  speak  for 
the  Lily,  that,  with  but  few  exceptions,  the  species  are 
perfectly  hardy  in  a  temperate  climate.  This  opinion, 
which  is  supposed  to  be  correct,  finds  its  way  into  the 


LILY*  175 

seedsmen's  catalogues,  prominent  in  the  cultural  instruc- 
tions, and  the  trustful  beginner,  not  taking  the  proper 
precautions,  loses  his  bulbs.  So  well  established  has  this 
opinion  become,  that  failure  wholly  due  to  frost  is 
attributed  to  some  unknown  cause.  This  opinion  is 
founded  on  the  fact  that  the  species  denominated  hardy 
are  natives  of  either  cold,  or  temperate  climates.  A.  more 
erroneous^  opinion,  or  one  fraught  with  more  danger  to 
the  plant^  could  not  well  be  entertained.  The  species 
that  are  truly  hardy  in  New  York,  other  than  those 
indigenous  to  the  soil,  are  remarkably  few ;  indeed,  they 
are  the  exception  rather  than  the  rule.  While  it  is  true 
that  some  of  the  species  are  found  in  the  coldest  parts 
of  the  habitable  globe,  growing  most  luxuriantly,  it  is 
equally  true  that  those  same  species,  grown  in  temperate 
climates,  are  not  hardy  to  a  degree  which  renders  it  safe 
to  plant  them  in  our  borders  without  protection. 

It  is  but  proper  to  remark,  at  this  time,  that  there 
is  no  climate  so  severe  on  every  class  of  bulbs,  such 
as  are  usually  considered  hardy,  and  left  in  the  open 
border  during  winter,  as  that  of  the  Middle  Atlantic 
States.  This  is  particularly  applicable  to  the  Atlantic 
coast,  from  Massachusetts  to  Virginia,  where  the  ther- 
mometer often  indicates  forty  degrees  of  frost  when 
there  is  not  a  particle  of  snow  on  the  ground  for  the  pro- 
tection of  vegetation.  In  these  localities  the  frost  pene- 
trates the  earth  to  a  great  depth,  and  is  soon  thawed 
out.  These  constant  changes  from  freezing  to  thawing 
cause  the  earth  to  contract  and  expand  to  such  a  degree 
as  to  frequently  tear  the  bulbs  in  pieces.  \Ve  have 
known  whole  fields  destroyed  in  this  manner.  This 
shows  the  mechanical  effect  of  freezing.  Now  let  us  be 
more  specific.  Siberia  affords  us  a  striking  illustration 
of  climatic  influences  on  growth  and  preservation  of 
bulbs.  There  the  beautiful  little  Tenuifolium  is  indige- 
nous, and  there  it  is  largely  employed  as  an  article  of 


176  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

food.  In  its  native  habitat  it  is  perfectly  hardy  ;  at  least, 
it  is  never  injured  by  the  excessive  cold.  Here  it  is 
not  hardy,  and  must  be  protected  against  frost  in  order 
to  secure  blooms.  Why  ?  Simply  because,  in  its  Sibe- 
rian home,  the  first  indication  of  winter  is  a  snowstorm 
that  covers  the  ground  so  deeply  that  frost  rarely,  if 
ever,  enters  the  ground  at  all.  In  our  temperate  clime 
the  earth  is  frozen  to  a  depth  entirely  unknown  there, 
notwithstanding  their  climate  is  much  the  colder. 

The  same  is  true  in  regard  to  the  Martagon,  the 
bulbs  of  which  are  largely  used  by  the  Cossacks  as  a 
vegetable ;  with  them  it  is  perfectly  hardy ;  with  us,  in 
a  much  milder  climate,  it  will  rarely  survive  but  a  single 
season,  unless  protected,  but  with  that  precaution,  it 
srrows  with  much  more  vigor  here  than  in  its  native 
home.  In  England  all  the  Turks'  Cap  Lilies  grow  to  a 
size  unknown  where  they  are  indigenous.  This  is  be- 
cause, in  England,  the  frost  never  reaches  them,  and  the 
other  conditions  of  growth  are  more  favorable. 

The  White  Turks'  Cap  Lily,  Lilium  Martagon 
album,  in  the  northern  part  of  New  York,  in  the  North- 
ern States,  and  in  Lower  Canada,  thrives  with  all  the 
vigor  of  a  native  plant.  We  have  known  this  bulb,  in 
one  locality,  to  increase  so  fast  that  it  crowded  out  other 
bulbs  in  the  garden,  and  was  regarded  as  a  native  plant. 
Near  the  ocean  it  is  rarely  seen,  in  fact,  cannot  be  grown, 
excepting  it  be  protected  from  frost,  either  by  a  frame, 
or  by  mulching.  Away  from  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  in 
Germany,  its  native  home,  the  snow  affords  ample 
protection. 

In  many  sections  of  our  country,  where  the  ground 
is  usually  covered  with  snow  during  winter,  Lilies  of  all 
kinds  grow  to  the  greatest  perfection.  We  have  seen 
finer  bulbs  of  the  Auratum,  Brownii,  Chalcedonicum, 
Martagon  and  other  species  grown  in  Vermont,  where 
they  were  protected  by  snow,  than  we  have  ever  seen 
grown  in  any  other  country.  Here  the  Auratum  is 


LILT.  177 

always  healthy,  and  increases  rapidly,  which  it  does  not 
do  in  less  favored  situations.  There  are  many  other 
plants  protected  by  snow  in  the  same,  or  in  a  similar, 
manner.  We  notice  on  the  Alps,  at  an  elevation  that 
permits  of  only  four  months  of  spring,  summer  and 
autumn,  that  the  Primula  auricula  grows  in  the  greatest 
luxuriance  and  profusion.  There  the  frost  never  reaches 
it,  as  it  is, constantly  and  completely  protected  with 
snow  through  eight  months  of  winter.  In  the  valleys 
below,  where  there  is  no  snow  and  but  little  frost,  the 
same  plant  will  not  live  through  the  winter  without  arti- 
ficial protection.  It  is  not  so  much  the  cold  that  injures 
or  destroys  many  of  the  species,  as  the  disintegration 
which  follows  alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  We  have 
often  had  bulbs  of  the  Tigrinum,  Umbellatum  and  Spe- 
ciosum  (Lancifolium)  remain  on  the  surface  during  win- 
ter, without  fatal  injury,  while  those  in  the  ground  were 
completely  destroyed. 

The  question  may  be  asked,  and  it  is  a  pertinent 
one,  "  Do  not  our  native  Lilies  have  the  same  elements 
to  contend  against  as  those  not  indigenous  to  our  soil, 
and  having  them,  escape  uninjured?"  Certainly,  yes; 
but  nature  always  protects  her  own,  and  in  collecting 
our  native  species,  we  see  how  wisely  and  beautifully  it 
is  done.  The  L.  superbum  is  rarely  found,  excepting 
in  woods,  or  marshy  grounds ;  the  low-growing  trees  or 
shrubs  form  a  complete  net-work  of  roots  above  and 
beneath  the  bulbs,  affording  the  most  ample  protection 
against  the  action  of  the  frost,  should  it  penetrate  the 
heavy  mulching  of  leaves  that  nature  has  provided  for 
their  protection.  The  L.  canadense,  or  common  Lily 
of  northern  meadows,  forms  its  bulbs  very  deep,  usually 
beyond  the  reach  of  frost,  and  has  for  a  covering  a  heavy 
turf,  than  which  there  can  be  no  better  protection. 
This  Lily,  in  our  cultivated  fields  or  nursery  grounds,  is 
by  no  means  hardy. 


178  BULBS  AKD  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

^Esop  told  the  gardener  of  his  master,  Xanthus, 
that  "The  earth  is  stepmother  to  those  plants  which 
were  incorporated  into  her  soil,  but  a  mother  to  those 
which  are  her  own  free  production."  This  may  suggest 
the  reason  why  our  own  species  are  capable  of  with- 
standing the  severity  of  our  winters,  while  those  from 
foreign  countries  are  not. 

Whatever  may  be  the  cause  of  failure,  we  find,  by 

our  own  experience  and  observation,  that  where  Lilies 

\  are  protected  so  that  frost  cannot  reach  them,  they  will 

1  invariably  succeed,  and  thrive  in  proportion  as  the  other 

jconditions  of  growth  are  more  or  less  favorable ;  while 

(those  left  unprotected,  if  in  an  exposed  situation,  are 

£uite  as  sure  to  die. 

Let  us  state  a  single  instance,  in  corroboration  of 
the  facts  as  stated.  A  friend  and  neighbor  had  a  pecu- 
liar fondness  for  bulbs,  Lilies  in  particular.  Of  these 
his  choice  was  the  L.  speciosum  (lancifoliiim).  He 
planted,  in  early  spring,  in  a  bed  four  feet  in  diameter, 
a  dozen  bulbs  of  the  different  varieties.  They  grew 
moderately  well,  as  they  should  in  good  soil,  his  being 
kept  covered  with  grass  cut  from  the  lawn.  Soon  after 
the  first  frost  he  covered  the  bed,  to  the  depth  of  six 
inches,  with  coarse  manure,  extending  over  the  grass  to 
double  the  size  of  the  bed.  The  following  seasons  there 
was  an  enormous  growth  ;  some  of  the  plants  were  nearly 
six  feet  high,  their  stems  being  an  inch  or  more  in  diam- 
eter at  the  base,  bearing  from  twenty  to  thirty  flowers 
each,  of  a  size  and  substance  rarely  seen.  This  bed  was 
allowed  to  remain  undisturbed  for  several  years,  the 
plants  keeping  up  their  vigor  of  growth,  and  increasing 
with  the  most  wonderful  rapidity ;  in  fact,  when  they 
were  removed  the  ground  seemed  all  bulbs. 

The  mulching,  or  the  protecting  of  a  bed  of  Lilies, 
is  a  simple  and  inexpensive  matter.  The  best  and  most 
natural  mulching  we  have  ever  used  is  a  covering,  say 


LILY.  179 

six  inches  in  depth,  of  newly  fallen  leaves,  kept  in  place 
by  some  brush  or  a  few  pieces  of  board.     Any  coarse  hay 
is  also  an  excellent  protection  ;  cornstalks  answer  a  yery 
good  purpose ;  in  short,  whatever  material  is  the  most 
convenient  that  will  accomplish  the  purpose,  is  the  best. 
XWet  Soil  Injurious. — The  next  important  cause 
of  failure  in  Lily  culture  is  in  planting  in  wet  situations, 
much  water  around  the  bulbs  in  winter  being  about  as 
injurious   to5'  the   plant   as   much  frost.     In   situations 
where  water  covers  the  ground  for  any  great  length  of 
time  when  the  bulbs  are  at  rest,  or  during  winter,  they 
will  not  be  likely  to  succeed,  and  are  liable  to  perish. 
There  are  many  gardens  noted  for  their  productiveness, 
which  cannot  be  planted  before  the  first  of  May,  because 
of  too  much  moisture ;  such  a  one  is  not  the  congenial 
home  of  the  Lily.     The  remedy  is  to  plant  in  a  raised 
bed.     This  should  be,  when  finished,  at  least  eighteen 
inches  above  the  level,  and  is  best  made  in  the  following 
manner  :    Lay  out  a  bed  of  the  required  size  and  desired 
shape ;  upon  this  place  any  rough  stones,  about  a  foot 
high,  irregularly,  so  that  the  spaces  between  them  will 
not  be  more  than  their  diameter;  fill  these  spaces  with 
good  strong  soil  even  with  the  tops  of  the  stones ;  partly 
rotted  turf  is  the  best ;  on  this  soil  place  the  bulbs,  about 
eighteen  inches  apart  each  way ;  then  between  the  bulbs 
place  stones  of  about  six  inches  in  diameter,  in  the  same 
irregular  manner  as  the  first  layer ;  then  cover  the  whole 
with  the  same  preparation  of  soil  that  was  placed  between 
the  first  layer  of  stones,  and  the  work  is  complete.     The 
bulbs  should  not  be  placed  nearer  than  a  foot  from  the 
edge  of  the  bed,  which   should  be  sloping  and  neatly 
sodded,  and  should  always  be  as  closely  cut  as  the  lawn 
during  summer.     This  bed  will  require  the  same  mulch- 
ing during  the  winter  as  though  the  bulbs  were  planted 
in  the  ordinary  border.     With  these  precautions  all  gar- 
den Lilies  can  be  grown  in  perfection,  and  will  reward 


180        BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-HOOTED  PLANTS. 

the  grower  liberally  for  all  the  care  and  attention  given. 
For  a  vigorous  growth  of  plant  and  a  perfect  devel- 
opment of  the  flower  a  few  other  precautions  are  neces- 
sary, although  fair  success  may  be  obtained  without 
them.  With  the  Lily,  as  with  every  other  plant,  the 
better  the  treatment  the  better  will  be  the  result ;  and 
nowhere  is  neglect  more  apparent  than  in  the  garden,  as 
there  we  want,  at  all  times,  a  display  that  can  only  be 
had  by  persistent  effort  and  constant  care.  The  Lily 
occupies  a  prominent  position,  and  can  be  had  in  bloom 
for  nearly  four  months  in  the  season ;  it  is,  therefore, 
important  that  it  should  not  suffer  from  neglect  of  any 
kind.  It  is  important,  too,  that  we  should  have  the 
very  best  results  obtainable.  A  plant  with  from  thirty 
to  forty  perfectly  developed  flowers  is  an  object  of  pride 
to  its  owner,  when  compared,  as  is  often  the  case,  with 
one  of  the  same  variety  with  not  more  than  one-fifth  the 
number,  and  these  of  poorly  grown  flowers. 

Lilies  of  all  kinds  dislike  extremes  ;  they  suffer  from 
too  much  water,  and  are  quite  as  impatient  of  heat  as  of 
extreme  cold.  We  have  shown  how  they  can  be  pro- 
tected against  moisture ;  how  to  protect  againt  heat  is 
the  next  consideration.  To  protect  against  heat  at  the 
root,  which  is  often  a  serious  injury  to  the  plant,  the 
surface  of  the  bed  should  be  carefully  mulched  during 
summer,  in  order  to  keep  the  ground  cool  and  moist. 
This  is  not  only  necessary  for  the  full  development  of 
the  flower,  but  also  for  the  growth  of  the  bulb,  the 
plant's  storehouse  of  food,  by  the  aid  of  which  it  com- 
mences operations  the  coming  season,  both  as  to  the 
development  of  seed  and  the  increase  of  bulbs,  for  the 
extension  and  perpetuation  of  the  plant.  For  this  pur- 
pose any  sightly  mulch  is  suitable;  fresh  cut  grass 
from  the  lawn  answers  a  good  purpose,  as  do  leaves,  or 
litter  of  any  kind.  We  have  seen  Lilies,  heavily  mulched 
with  leaves,  grown  in  the  shrubbery  border,  that,  for 


LILT.  181 

size  and  vigor,  far  surpassed  our  ideas  of  the  capability 
of  the  plant.  We  have  seen  the  L.  superlum,  grown  in 
this  manner,  more  than  eight  feet  high,  with  a  corres- 
ponding size  of  stalk  and  number  of  flowers.  In  fact, 
we  do  not  know  of  a  grander  object  in  the  garden  than 
a  group  of  this  Lily  grown  under  such  circumstances. 

In  a  moderately  wet  season  a  mulch  of  living  plants 
is  not  only  beneficial,  but  ornamental  as  well ;  for  this 
purpose  w§  should  recommend  the  use  of  some  low-grow- 
ing plant,  the  Verbena,  Dwarf  Petunia,  or  any  other  plant 
that  will  not  offend  the  eye  and  cover  the  ground  quickly, 
continuing  in  flower  the  whole  season.  We  have  known 
good  effects  to  come  from  mulching  L.  longiflorum  with 
Pansies.  In  a  dry  season  living  plants  will  not  do  as 
well  as  some  other  forms  of  mulch,  as  they  draw  too 
much  moisture  from  the  Lilies,  instead  of  protecting 
them.  For  field  culture  a  mulching  of  coarse  hay  or 
straw  answers  well,  but  in  the  garden  that,  or  any  other 
dry  mulch,  would  appear  unsightly. 

Partial  Shade  Necessary. — The  next  precaution 
is  to  have  the  Lily  bed  partially  shaded,  either  by  shrub- 
bery, or  so  situated  that  the  buildings  will  afford  the 
necessary  shade;  or  the  plants  may  be  protected  from 
the  midday  sun  by  a  light  lattice  roofing,  say  six  feet 
above  the  plants.  An  excellent  plan  is  to  put  up  a  light 
frame  sufficiently  large  to  surround  the  bed,  and  cover  with 
some  very  light  and  open  canvas  or  cloth,  to  be  used  in 
excessively  hot  weather.  This  will  not  only  prolong  the 
season  of  flowering,  but  the  flowers  will  be  much  larger, 
the  colors  and  markings  more  clearly  defined,  and  the 
petals  will  expand  perfectly,  without  that  tendency  to 
dry  up  or  wither  at  the  points,  and  the  whole  plant  will 
be  stronger  and  more  productive. 

Best  Soil  For  Lilies. — What  soils  do  Lilies  re- 
quire, or  in  what  kind  do  they  succeed  best  ?  These 
questions  are  frequently  asked,  and  seem  to  be  of  great 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

importance ;  to  many  they  seem  vital  points.  Our  opin* 
ion,  based  upon  the  experience  of  many  years,  is,  that 
the  condition  of  the  soil  is  of  far  greater  importance  than 
its  character,  and  it  is  upon  the  former  that  success 
largely  depends.  We  have  grown  Lilies  in  every  variety 
of  soil,  from  the  lightest  sand  to  the  heaviest  clay,  and 
have  met  both  success  and  failure  in  all  their  various  char- 
acters. Our  preference  is  for  a  light  loam,  because  in 
it  propagation  is  more  rapid,  and,  in  all  cases,  perfect 
flowers  are  results  of  perfect  development  of  the  plant; 
should  we  not  have  such  a  soil,  we  plant  in  whatever  we 
have,  knowing  full  well  that  the  soil  that  will  yield  an 
abundant  crop  of  garden  vegetables,  or  field  crops,  will 
also  produce  Lilies  and  other  flowers  in  profusion.  It  is 
a  great  mistake  to  think  that  each  and  every  plant  must 
have  a  soil  with  certain  specific  characters  in  which  to 
grow,  in  order  to  attain  perfect  development.  It  is  :rue 
that  any  given  plant  will  do  better  in  a  soil  congenial  to 
it,  one  similar  to  that  of  its  native  habitat,  but  it  is 
equally  true  that  it  will  do  well  in  a  variety  of  soils 
where  other  conditions  are  favorable.  Plants  do  not  live 
on  soil  alone ;  they  live  in  the  soil,  it  is  their  home. 
The  soil  contains  certain  elementary  substances  that  con- 
tribute to  the  growth  of  plants;  the  atmosphere  con- 
tains an  equal  number;  the  two  acting  in  harmony  pro- 
duce the  plant.  These  conditions,  in  any  given  locality, 
always  exist ;  consequently,  whether  you  have  a  clayey 
or  a  sandy  soil,  you  will  have  in  the  atmosphere  condi- 
tions favorable  to  it,  so,  in  either  case,  the  results  will 
be  the  same.  In  the  one  case  you  will  be  obliged  to  use 
more  labor,  in  the  other  more  manure,  to  accomplish  the 
same  purpose. 

But  can  all  the  species  be  successfully  grown  in  the 
same  soil  ?  We  answer,  yes,  as  nearly  as  those  of  any 
other  genus  of  plants  with  which  we  are  acquainted. 
Make  a  heavy  soil  rich,  and  provide  good  drainage, 


LILT.  183 

and  you  will  get  an  abundance  of  beautiful  Lilies.  Make 
a  light  soil  rich,  and  carefully  protect  from  the  burn- 
ing sun, — the  soil  by  a  proper  mulch,  and  the  flowers  by 
a  suitable  screen, — and  the  same  results  will  follow. 

How  To  Plant. — The  next  consideration  of  im- 
portance is,  how  to  plant,  and  upon  this  much  depends. 
It  is  a  part  of  the  work  but  little  understood,  conse- 
quently most  generally  neglected.  To  prepare  a  proper 
home  for  the  Lily,  the  soil  should  be  thrown  out  to  the 
depth  of  two  feet;  at  the  bottom  there  should  be,  at 
least,  six  inches  in  depth  of  well  rotted  manure,  that 
from  the  cow  stable  being  preferable.  The  manure 
should  be  thoroughly  packed  down,  and  upon  it  put 
twelve  inches  of  well  rotted  sod,  or  good  garden  soil, 
then  one  inch  of  clean  sand.  Upon  this  bed  place  the 
bulbs,  and  cover  them  with  clean  sand,  then  fill  up  with 
the  same  kind  of  soil  as  is  below  the  bulbs,  rotted  sod 
being  preferable ;  no  manure  should  ever  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  bulbs,  as  it  only  tends  to  decay  rather 
than  to  strengthen  them.  The  mission  of  the  bulb  is  to 
sustain  the  plant  until  there  is  root  and  leaf  development 
sufficient  to  carry  on  the  work.  The  bulb  is  simply  a 
storehouse  of  food  laid  up  by  the  plant  this  year,  for  the 
commencement  of  its  labors  the  next.  The  plant  derives 
its  sustenance  far  away  from  the  bulb,  and  will  increase 
in  size  and  strength  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  food 
in  store  for  it,  until  it  has  reached  its  maximum  growth. 
If  a  good,  strong,  healthy  bulb  is  planted  in  a  good  rich 
soil,  a  correspondingly  strong  plant  will  be  the  result ; 
which,  in  its  turn,  will  make  a  number  of  strong  bulbs 
for  the  perpetuation  of  the  species.  It  is  quite  as  impor- 
tant to  have  the  soil  above  the  bulb  as  rich  as  it  is  below, 
as  most  of  the  species  feed  near  the  surface,  through 
their  thousands  of  roots  thrown  out  from  the  stem  just 
above  the  bulb.  The  soil  should  be  well  drained. 

The  size  and  number  of  the  bulbs  formed  this  year 
will  depend  upon  the  plants'  resources.  If  liberal  depos- 


184  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

its  of  food  have  been  made,  the  increase  will  be  in  exact 
ratio.  Stimulating  food  will  not  do;  it  may,  for  a 
period,  show  good  results,  but  in  the  end  a  loss  of  vital- 
ity and  decay  will  be  apparent. 

When  To  Plant.  —Our  next  consideration  is  when 
to  plant,  and  it  is  an  important  one.  Planting  at  the 
wrong  time  is  a  frequent  cause  of  failure.  There  is  but 
a  short  period  of  the  year  when  the  bulbs  are  truly  at 
rest,  and  it  is  at  that  period  that  removals  should  be 
made.  These  periods  differ  with  the  species.  The 
Lilium  candidum  should  be  removed  in  July,  and  re- 
planted as  soon  thereafter  as  possible.  This  Lily  makes 
a  growth  in  autumn,  upon  which  the  bloom  of  the  com- 
ing season  depends.  None  of  the  species  are  as  impa- 
tient of  rest  as  this.  The  Lilium  excelsum,  an  allied 
species,  does  not  mature  as  early,  but  is  nearly  as  impa- 
tient of  rest ;  we  find  the  best  time  to  remove  this  bulb 
is  in  September.  This  rule  will  also  apply  to  L.  Marta- 
gon  (Turk's  Cap),  and  its  varieties.  All  the  other  spe- 
cies can  be  taken  up  in  October,  and  replanted,  or  kept 
in  store  for  sale;  none  of  them  should  remain  long  out 
of  ground,  but  as  soon  as  possible  pack  in  leaf  mold, 
until  the  ground  is  in  condition  for  planting  in  spring. 
In  removals  from  one  part  of  the  garden  to  another,  in 
the  formation  of  new  beds,  we  prefer  taking  up  in  spring, 
after  growth  has  commenced ;  take  up,  divide,  and 
replant  as  quickly  as  possible.  We  have  never  lost  a 
bulb  by  removal  at  this  time.  Under  no  circumstances 
should  Lily  bulbs  remain  long  out  of  ground,  or  get  dry. 
In  importing  new  varieties,  and  for  purposes  of  sale,  it 
is  necessary  to  keep  them  dry  longer  than  is  expedient ; 
every  day  they  are  out  of  the  ground  materially 
weakens  them,  often  beyond  their  power  of  recuperation. 
Better,  by  far,  to  take  up  a  Lily  when  in  full  flower, 
than  have  a  dry  and  shriveled  bulb ;  in  fact,  we  have 
often  taken  up  Lilies  when,  in  flower,  without  their  sus- 


LILY.  185 

taining  the  least  injury.  We  do  not  wonder  that  grow- 
ers get  discouraged,  in  their  efforts  to  establish  a  bed  of 
Lilies,  when  we  see  them  purchase  a  collection  of  bulbs 
that  have  been  kept  in  dry  sawdust,  or  exposed  to  the 
dry  atmosphere  of  a  heated  room  from  October  until 
May.  Such  bulbs  will  not  recover  until  long  after  the 
hopes  of  the  gardener  have  blasted,  and  he  has  bestowed 
his  blighted  affections  on  some  other  plant. 

When  lilies  have  become  well  established,  and 
show,  by  their  flowers,  that  they  have  a  congenial  home, 
frequent  removals  are  not  desirable;  the  bed  should 
remain  undisturbed  as  long  as  the  plants  bl^om  satisfac- 
torily. It  is  well  to  remove  the  small  bulbs  that  form 
at  the  base  of  the  stem  in  early  spring,  and  transfer 
them  to  a  well  prepared  bed,  to  perfect  their  growth, 
after  which  they  may  be  placed  in  a  permanent  bed. 

In  planting  the  small  bulbs,  it  is  the  better  plan  not 
to  remove  them  from  the  stem,  but  to  lay  the  portion  of 
the  stem,  with  the  bulbs  attached,  lengthwise  in  the 
drill,  and  cover  about  two  inches  with  gooJ  Jbrous  soil, 
free  from  fresh  manure ;  the  decaying  stem  and  mass  of 
roots  that  surround  the  young  bulbs  will,  in  their  decay, 
materially  assist  in  the  development  of  the  young  bulbs. 

Lilies  in  Autumn. — While  it  is  best  to  plant  the 
bulbs  as  we  have  above  stated,  there  is  a  notable  excep- 
tion, which,  like  all  others,  confirms  the  rule.  An  ex- 
periment, the  result  of  accident,  has  shown  us  that 
Lilies  of  all  kinds  can  be  had  in  autumn,  as  well  as  in 
midsummer.  The  following  is  the  result  of  our  experi- 
ence, as  we  reported  it  in  the  Garden  and  Forest,  Octo- 
ber, 1892  :  "  Last  spring  one  of  our  seedsmen  had  a  num- 
ber of  cases  of  assorted  Lilies  left  over  from  spring  sales. 
After  their  journey  from  Japan  in  November  of  the  pre- 
vious year,  and  having  been  kept  perfectly  dry  until  the 
middle  of  May,  the  prospect  of  flowers  from  these  bulbs 
was  poor  indeed.  In  hopes  of  saving  something  out  of 


186  BULBS   AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

them,  we  planted  the  lot  about  May  20th.  To  our  sur- 
prise, nearly  all  of  them  came  up  and  made  a  vigorous 
struggle  for  life.  The  result  was  that  this  morning 
( October  10th)  we  have  gathered  from  a  bed  of  L.  ti- 
grinum  splendens  as  fine  spikes  as  ever  were  cut  in  July. 
The  plants  of  L.  speciosum  did  nearly  as  well,  but  their 
flowers  were  over  last  week,  excepting  L.  speciosum 
prcecox,  which  are  in  bloom,  although  the  flowers  are 
considerably  damaged  by  the  storm.  L.  longiflorum 
bloomed  well,  but  were  all  gone  a  month  ago.  The 
plants  of  L.  auratum  behaved  as  they  always  do ; 
some  came  up  quickly,  and  flowered  in  August,  and 
there  have  been  flowers  in  the  row  every  day  since,  while 
some  are  just  coming  up.  These  we  shall  pot  for  the 
greenhouse  if  there  are  enough  to  make  it  pay.  This 
experience  has  taught  us  that  the  season  of  Lilies  can  be 
kept  up  until  after  a  hard  frost,  with  but  little  trouble, 
and  add  greatly  to  the  display  of  autumn  flowers.  From 
the  show  these  Tiger  Lilies  are  making,  it  is  evident 
they  should  not  be  allowed  to  bloom  at  any  other  season, 
as  their  deep,  rich  orange-crimson  flowers  are  now  in 
harmony  with  all  their  surroundings.  For  autumn 
flowers  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  in  November, 
packed  away  in  dry  sand  or  sphagnum  moss,  and  stored 
in  some  dry  cool  place  until  about  May  15th.  The  low 
price  of  the  bulbs  of  the  L.  tigrinum  should  make  them 
popular  autumn  flowers,  when  they  can  be  had  with  so 
little  trouble  and  expense." 

Selection  of  Lilies. — In  the  cultivation  of  Lilies, 
the  selection  of  varieties  is  an  important  consideration. 
It  depends  wholly  upon  the  taste  of  the  individual,  the 
amount  of  money  to  be  expended,  and  the  amount  of 
room  to  be  devoted  to  their  culture,  all  of  which  points 
must  be  determined  by  him.  We  shall  describe  accu- 
rately all  known  species  and  distinct  varieties,  without, 
in  the  least,  advising  as  to  choice.  It  is,  however,  well 


LILY.  187 

to  remark  that  in  making  a  selection  one  cannot  well  go 
wrong,  as  there  is  not  one  in  the  long  list  which  is 
unworthy  of  a  place  in  any  choice  collection  of  plants ; 
but  some  are  much  more  desirable  than  others,  as  is  the 
case  with  every  class  of  plants.  Whoever  makes  a  start 
in  Lily  culture,  and  is  successful, — as  he  will  be,  if  he 
follows  the  instruction  given, — will  be  sure  to  embrace 
in  his  collection  as  many  varieties  as  his  space  and  means 
will  afford." 

The  expense  attending  the  collection  of  a  large 
number  of  the  rarer  species,  deters  many  from  making  a 
beginning.  But  the  investment,  heavy  as  it  may  seem  at 
the  start,  is,  in  reality,  a  good  one,  as  plants  that  are 
steadily  and  rapidly  increasing  in  number,  though  they 
may  seem  expensive,  are,  in  the  end,  much  cheaper  than 
those  that  must  be  renewed  annually,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  popular  bedding  plants,  and  many  others  of  interest. 
The  annual  increase  of  bulbs,  when  properly  cared  for, 
will  not  only  soon  repay  the  original  cost,  but  will  yield 
a  large  profit.  The  higher  priced  bulbs,  when  their 
requirements  are  respected,  increase  as  rapidly  as  many 
of  the  cheaper  ones,  which  makes  their  cultivation 
profitable. 

Forcing  Lilies  For  Winter  Flowers. — But  two 
of  the  many  species  of  Lilies  are  grown  in  pots  for  win- 
ter flowers,  mainly  because  none  others  excepting  L. 
candidum  and  L.  longiflorum,  and  its  varieties  succeed 
well  when  grown  in  this  manner,  and  because  the  flowers 
of  the  other  varieties  are  not  in  demand  for  decorative 
purposes.  Other  than  white  Lilies  seem  to  be  out  of 
place  in  floral  designs  or  for  table  decoration,  excepting 
in  the  summer  time. 

r^ilium  candidum,  which  is  popularly  known  as 
Annunciation  Lily,  the  former  Easter  Lily,  is  largely 
grown  by  florists  for  decorative  purposes  and  for  floral 
designs,  the  single  flower  being  admirably  adapted  to 


188  BULBS 'AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

this  purpose.  It  is  not  difficult  to  successfully  grow  the 
plant.  The  method  employed  by  those  who  grow  this 
Lily  largely  and  well,  is  to  pot  the  bulbs  singly  in  eight 
inch  pots,  as  soon  as  the  bulbs  can  be  obtained,  the 
earlier  the  better,  and  when  possible  using  a  rich,  lively 
loam,  avoiding  fresh  manure;  plunge  the  pots  to  the 
rim  in  a  frame  where  they  can  have  free  sunlight  and 
air.  Their  annual  autumn  growth  will  soon  commence, 
when  water  should  be  freely  given,  and  growth  encour- 
aged as  much  as  possible,  which  will  continue  until  the 
ground  is  frozen.  Upon  the  approach  of  frost,  cover 
the  pots  with  newly  fallen  leaves,  and  cover  the  frames 
with  sash  or  shutters,  using  care  to  exclude  heat,  which 
might  stimulate  untimely  growth,  and  to  keep  out  the 
frost,  or  rather,  hard  freezing,  in  order  that  the  pots 
can  be  taken  into  the  greenhouse  as  required,  during 
winter.  The  pots  can  be  brought  in  at  any  time  after 
the  plants  have  had  a  short  rest.  It  is  better,  however, 
not  to  start  them  too  soon,  but  to  commence  about  the 
first  of  January,  and  bring  them  in  as  required  for  a 
succession.  They  are  best  grown  in  a  cool  house,  where 
they  can  have  an  abundance  of  light  and  air.  When 
crowded,  in  a  warm  house,  they  grow  up  long  and  weak, 
and  quickly  become  the  prey  of  insect  enemies.  In  a 
cool  house,  say  with  a  temperature  of  60°  F.  by  day,  and 
40°  by  night,  they  will  come  into  bloom  in  ten  weeks. 
They  can  be  made  to  bloom  in  much  less  time,  but  at 
the  expense  of  health  to  both  plant  and  flower. 

Home  grown  bulbs  are  greatly  to  be  preferred  to 
imported  ones,  the  latter  quite  frequently  being  injured 
by  heating  in  transit.  Another  reason  for  this  prefer- 
ence being  that  all  vegetation  is  more  rapid  in  this  cli- 
mate than  in  France,  where  these  bulbs  are  principally 
grown  for  the  American  market.  Here  the  bulbs  have 
a  lono-er  period  of  rest,  and  develop  their  growth  in  a 
much  shorter  period.  The  consequence  is,  the  bulbs 


LILY.  189 

grown  here  will  come  into  flower  much  sooner  after 
being  bfought  into  the  house,  than  do  those  from  foreign 
countries.  While  this  is  the  best  method  of  growing 
them,  the  more  common  one  is  to  take  the  bulbs,  as 
imported,  pot  them  from  the  first  of  October  to  the  first 
of  December,  plunging  them  in  the  same  manner,  and 
in  all  respects  treat  in  the  same  way.  This  does  not  give 
the  hulbs  a  chance  to  fill  the  pots  with  roots,  or  to  make 
the  preliminary  growth  so  essential  to  their  perfect 
development.  If  the  florist  grows  his  own  bulbs  he  can 
have  them  potted  by  the  first  of  August,  and  they  will 
very  soon  commence  their  season's  work. 

Treatment  After  Flowering  in  the  Green- 
house.— Soon  after  flowering,  the  pots  can  be  put  in 
any  out-of-the-way  place,  either  in  a  cool  shed,  or  under 
the  benches,  there  to  remain  until  they  can  be  planted 
in  the  field  for  future  use.  There  they  should  be  liber- 
ally treated,  both  as  regards  care  in  cultivation,  and  in 
having  a  liberal  supply  of  plant  food.  Bulbs  that  have 
been  forced  should  have  a  rest  of,  at  least,  two  years  in 
the  field,  before  they  can  be  successfully  grown  again 
in  the  greenhouse. 

The  Bermuda  Lily. — This  is  the  popular  name 
of  L.  longiflorum,  var.  eximium,  first  brought  prom- 
inently to  the  attention  of  the  florists,  by  H.  K.  Harris, 
of  Philadelphia,  under  the  name  of  L.  Harrisii.  It 
was  also  sent  out  under  the  name  of  L.  floribunduin. 
It  is  often  called  Easter  Lily. 

These  bulbs  are  almost  exclusively  grown  for  forcing 
purposes  on  the  Island  of  Bermuda,  where  they  perfect 
their  growth  early  in  July.  This  fact  is  important,  as 
bulbs  matured  at  that  time  will  perfect  their  flowers  in 
the  greenhouse  fully  two  months  earlier  than  tho^ 
grown  at  the  North,  where  they  do  not  ripen  until  Octo- 
ber. The  methods  of  cultivating  this,  the  most  showy 
of  Lilies  for  Easter  decoration,  are  variable,  each  florist 


190  BULBS  AND   TUBEIiO US-BO 01  ED  PLANTS. 


A  PIELD   OF   LILIES  IK  BERMUDA. 


BERMUDA    LILY.  191 

having  a  plan  of  his  own  ;  or,  at  least,  in  visiting  many 
of  the  largest  growers,  we  hear  very  different  opinions 
expressed,  in  regard  to  the  size  of  the  bulb  to  be  grown, 
for  the  greatest  profit ;  the  temperature  required  to  bring 
them  forward  to  the  best  advantage,  and  whether  they 
are  best  grown  in  pots  or  on  benches. 

We  find  the  better  plan  is  to  pot  the  bulbs  as  soon 
as  received  from  Bermuda,  and  that  a  careful  selection 
of  sizes  is  %  matter  of  great  importance.  It  was,  for 
some  years,  thought  that  the  larger  the  bulbs,  the  greater 
would  be  the  chances  of  success  in  their  flowering ;  but 
now  the  smaller  sizes  are  more  generally  used.  It  is 
found  that  well-matured  bulbs,  of  from  three  to  five 
inches  in  circumference,  well  grown  in  a  five-inch  pot, 
will  give  from  one  to  three  flowers  each,  and  that  the 
small  bulbs  will  produce  their  flowers  in  a  much  shorter 
time  than  the  largest  sized  ones.  As  the  flower  stems 
are  cut,  for  decorative  purposes,  close  to  the  pot,  as  soon 
as  two  or  three  flowers  are  opened,  the  plant  from  the 
small  bulb  will  bring  very  nearly  as  much  as  the  other, 
which  costs  three  times  as  much  at  the  start,  and  as 
much  more  to  grow.  The  plant  sells  for  a  given  price 
per  flower,  and,  as  there  are  not  usually  more  than  three 
open  at  a  time,  the  unopened  buds  are  of  no  value.  The 
profits  of  a  grower  depend  largely  upon  how  much  he 
can  cut,  or  grow,  on  a  given  space,  and  in  growing  Lilies 
he  finds  he  can  get  double  the  number  of  stalks  from  a 
bench  planted  with  small  bulbs,  from  what  he  could  if 
planted  with  the  largest  ones,  consequently  they  are  far 
the  more  profitable. 

There  is  another  important  consideration  in  the  use 
of  small  bulbs,  viz.,  the  time  in  which  they  can  be 
brought  into  flower.  One  florist,  last  season,  cut  his 
first  flowers  at  "Thanksgiving,"  and  they  came  on  rap- 
idly thereafter.  At  this  season  flowers  for  decorative 
purposes  are  in  good  demand,  consequently  they  bring 


192  BULBS   A5sD    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

satisfactory  prices.  As  Christmas  is  one  of  the  best  sea- 
sons for  the  sale  of  these  flowers,  it  is  an  object  to  get 
them  in  at  that  time,  and  the  small  bulbs  are  the  only 
ones  that  can  be  depended  upon  to  furnish  them. 

When  the  bulbs  are  shipped  from  Bermuda,  they 
are  in  separate  grades,  as  from  three  to  five,  and  up  to 
from  nine  to  twelve  inches  in  circumference.  Each  of 
these  grades  should  be  made  into  two  classes,  the  larger 
and  smaller  to  be  potted  separately ;  for  instance,  those 
between  four  and  five  inches  should  be  put  in  six  inch 
pots,  those  from  three  to  four  inches  will  do  well  in  five 
inch  pots.  The  larger  sizes  will  require  large  pots,  but, 
except  for  large  plants  for  exhibition  or  decorative  pur- 
poses, an  eight  inch  pot  is  sufficiently  large  for  any  of 
the  bulbs.  There  is  a  peculiarity  about  this  bulb  not 
common  to  any  other.  Each  seems  to  have  a  time  of  its 
own  to  develop  its  flowers.  In  bringing  forward  a  hun- 
dred pots,  where  the  bulbs  were  carefully  selected  as  to 
size,  and  all  given  the  same  treatment,  there  will  be  a 
marked  difference  in  their  time  of  coming  into  flower. 
For  this  reason,  the  practice  of  growing  them  in  boxes 
or  planting  them  out  on  the  benches,  was  abandoned, 
there  being  a  great  loss  in  room  to  await  the  flowering 
of  the  late  ones,  after  the  main  crop  had  been  cut. 
When  planted  singly,  in  pots,  they  can  be  removed  as 
soon  as  the  stems  are  cut,  and  their  places  filled  by  others 
to  keep  up  a  succession. 

In  potting,  soils  of  various  character  are  used,  not  as 
a  matter  of  choice,  but  of  necessity ;  the  location  of  the 
florist  must  decide  that  matter,  as  he  is  limited  in  his 
choice.  However,  they  will  succeed  in  any  good  potting 
soil,  all  other  conditions  being  favorable.  In  potting, 
do  not  press  the  bulb  down  so  as  to  have  the  soil  beneath 
it  hard,  as  the  roots  will  not  penetrate  it  freely,  and  do 
not  have  the  bulb  more  than  half  an  inch  below  the  rim 
of  the  pot.  Plunge  the  pots  in  coal  ashes  in  a  cold 


BERMUDA    LILY.  193 

frame,  and  cover  them  with  the  same  to  the  depth  of  one 
or  two  inches,  and  over  this  a  light  covering  of  leaves  or 
fine  hay,  to  prevent  evaporation,  and  to  keep  the  bulbs 
moist  and  cool.  They  should  be  kept  perfectly  dark, 
and  away  from  the  air,  which  would  have  a  tendency  to 
stimulate  leaf-growth,  which  is  undesirable  until  the 
bulbs  have  had  ample  time  to  make  root-growth,  after  their 
natural  and  desired  rest,  before  the  stem  starts,  which  is 
one  of  the  Aost  important  considerations  in  bulb  culture. 

For  early  flowers  the  pots  can  be  brought  into  the 
greenhouse  by  the  middle  of  September,  or  as  soon  as 
active  growth  has  commenced,  but  never  before  the  plant 
has  made  a  growth  of,  at  least,  an  inch  above  the  pot. 
At  this  stage  growth  must  be  encouraged  and  steadily 
maintained,  a  check  is  to  them  a  serious  matter,  which 
will  be  plainly  shown  by  blight,  some  insect  enemy  and 
the  absence  of  flowers.  For  a  healthful,  vigorous  growth, 
a  free  circulation  of  air,  even  temperature  and  great 
care  in  watering,  are  rules  that  must  be  strictly  observed. 
They  do  not  require  a  high  temperature,  neither  will 
they  submit  to  a  low  one.  For  general  cultivation  in 
the  greenhouse,  a  temperature  of  from  70°  to  80°  by  day, 
and  from  60°  to  70°  by  night,  will  produce  the  best 
results.  But  to  be  sure  of  a  crop  of  flowers  for  Christ- 
mas, a  temperature  of,  at  least,  5°  higher,  should  be 
maintained  after  the  first  four  weeks. 

For  decorative  purposes,  where  large  specimen 
plants  are  desired,  the  largest  bulbs  should  be  planted, 
and  if  they  have  two  or  more  divisions,  all  the  better,  as 
a  number  of  stems,  with  three  or  four  flowers  each,  is  a 
more  showy  object  than  a  single  one  can  possibly  be. 
For  this  purpose  it  does  not  do  to  put  several  bulbs  in 
the  same  pot,  because  of  the  uncertainty  of  their  coming 
into  flower  at  the  same  time.  Specimen  plants  will  not 
bear  crowding  ;  they  must  have  plenty  of  room  for  a  free' 
circulation  of  air  around  them,  and  a  lower  temperature 
13 


194  BULBS  AKD  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAKTS. 

given  them.  To  be  strong  they  must  he  grown  slowly ; 
too  much  heat  and  little  air  will  make  a  spindling  plant, 
that  will  not  unfrequently  drop  its  buds.  When  grown 
slowly,  the  flowers  will  have  more  substance,  they  will 
be  larger,  and  there  will  be  a  larger  number  open  at  one 
time,  and  will  be  mere  enduring,  which  greatly  enhances 
their  value. 

Lilies  For  Easter. — The  same  rules  should  be 
observed  in  forcing  flowers  for  Easter;  the  larger  bulbs 
should  be  potted  for  this  purpose,  using  eight  inch  pots. 
Should  the  plants  make  a  very  vigorous  growth,  seem- 
ingly too  large  for  the  pot,  do  not  make  a  shift,  under 
any  circumstances,  but  supply  the  additional  food  re- 
quired, by  liquid  cow  manure,  which  should  be  used  lib- 
erally twice  a  week. 

L.  longiflorum. — The  type  should  be  treated  in 
the  same  manner.  The  only  difference  between  the  varie- 
ties being,  that  the  Longiflorum  is  later  in  coming 
into  flower,  and  is  not  so  tall ;  its  flowers  are  smaller, 
but  more  enduring,  and  will  bear  transportation  better. 
A  temperature  10°  lower  would  be  better  for  this  Lily. 
This  is  grown  more  for  the  Easter  trade,  which  is  the 
harvest  of  this  industry.  The  Bermuda  grown  bulbs 
come  into  flower  quicker  than  the  Dutch  grown  ones, 
because  they  are  ripened  earlier,  but  the  Dutch  bulbs, 
we  think,  are  preferable,  as  the  plants  are  more  dwarf, 
and  quite  as  floriferous.  These  should  be  potted  as  soon 
as  received,  in  October,  and  the  flowers  can  then  be  had 
for  the  Easter  trade,  and  for  decorative  purposes  for 
some  weeks  thereafter,  when  the  Eximiums  are  gone. 

The  Use  of  Bulbs  After  Forcing. — After  the 
bulbs  are  done  flowering,  water  should  be  withheld  for 
about  ten  days ;  they  should  then  be  placed  in  a  cold 
frame,  or  sheltered  spot,  the  balls  packed  close  together, 
with  sufficient  soil  thrown  over  them  to  fill  up  the  inter- 
stices ;  then  cover  with  three  or  four  inches  of  dry  leaves, 


LILY.  195 

and  if  in  midwinter,  they  must  be  covered  with  sash  ;  if 
in  spring,  the  covering  of  leaves  alone  will  be  sufficient 
to  protect  against  frost.  The  bulbs  so  treated  will  flower 
freely  again  in  August,  in  the  open  ground,  but  would 
not  do  as  well  to  force  for  the  succeeding  winter,  if 
wanted  for  that  purpose,  and  would  require  another 
year's  growth  to  be  in  proper  condition  ;  for  that  reason 
it  is  the  most  economical  plan  to  use  the  Bermuda  grown 
bulbs,  whidh  have  been  specially  prepared  for  winter 
forcing.  The  common  practice  is  to  throw  the  bulbs 
away,  but  they  can  be  grown  for  summer  flowers,  if 
wanted. 

Species  and  Varieties. — The  following  list  in- 
cludes all  that  are  really  useful  for  general  cultivation, 
or  all  that  have  distinctive  characteristics.  Many  varie- 
tal names  we  have  passed  unnoticed,  because  of  their 
insignificance,  and  because  they  are  simply  synonyms, 
applied  to  increase  the  number  of  varieties  for  purposes 
of  sale,  rather  than  to  assist  the  gardener  in  a  choice. 
It  is  often  the  case  that  a  given  species  or  variety  has 
had  several  names  given  it,  by  different  growers  or  col- 
lectors, who  supposed  themselves  the  only  possessors. 
Wherever  a  name  has  been  omitted  the  reader  must  rest 
assured  the  variety  or  species  is  noticed  under  some  other 
name.  For  the  sake  of  completeness  we  have  noticed 
many  varieties  that  are  not  of  great  importance  to  a  col- 
lection, as  will  be  seen  by  the  notice  we  give  of  them. 

L.  auratum  (Golden-rayed  Lily  of  Japan). — This 
species  is  very  popular  and  well  known.  It  is  due  to 
the  varieties  to  say  that  for  the  open  border  they  are  the 
grandest  of  all  Lilies.  For  floral  decoration,  or  in  any 
arrangement  of  cut  flowers,  they  do  not  compare  at  all 
favorably  with  many  of  the  species.  In  a  small  room  its 
fragrance  is  overpowering  and  sickening,  and  soon  after 
cutting  it  has  a  somewhat  wilted  appearance.  In  the 
garden  it  stands  long  without  fading,  and  its  fragrance 


196        BULBS  Atfb  TUBEROUS-HOOTED 


is  not  objectionable.  The  L.  auratum  bas  disappointed 
more  of  its  admirers  than  almost  any  other  Lily,  because 
of  its  failure  to  adapt  itself  to  our  soil  and  climate.  Our 
experience  with  these  bulbs  proves  that  they  are  not 
hardy,  in  a  sense  that  other  Lilies  are.  They  must-  be 
protected,  both  against  cold  and  standing  water,  both  in 
open  soils,  and  where  the  water  does  not  stand  over 
them  during  their  periods  of  rest.  When  guarded  at 
all,  in  these  points,  they  are  as  long-lived,  and  will  grow 
as  vigorously  as  any  other  Lily.  They  are,  moreover, 
impatient  of  heat,  and  to  be  grown  successfully  they 
should  be  in  partial  shade,  and  the  ground  covered  in 
summer  with  newly  cut  grass  or  some  other  suitable 
mulch.  The  flowers  of  this  species  vary  more  in  shape, 
color  and  markings  than  any  of  the  other  Lilies,  so 
much  so  that  some  growers  have  selected  a  large  number 
with  decided  markings  and  forms,  and  have  awarded 
them  varietal  names.  In  growing  large  numbers,  and 
watching  their  habits  closely,  we  do  not  think  this  prac- 
tice warrantable,  because  the  character  of  the  flowers 
depends  so  much  upon  the  conditions  of  growth,  that 
under  changed  conditions  they  are  not  constant;  that  a 
bulb  which  has  given  very  large  flowers  this  year,  may 
give  inferior  ones  the  next,  and  the  reverse.  We  have 
also  noticed,  in  our  selection  from  beds  of  those  with  a 
red  instead  of  the  yellow  band,  that  the  color  is  not  con- 
stant, and  the  following  year  the  band  will  again  be 
yellow. 

There  are,  however,  some  distinct  varieties,  which 
we  shall  notice  in  their  order,  from  the  seeds  of  which 
the  bulbs  we  receive  from  Japan  are  grown.  The  seeds 
from  these  varieties  are  undoubtedly  cross-fertilized, 
which  will  account  for  the  vast  number  of  forms  and 
colors  we  find  among  the  imported  bulbs.  The  same 
law  holds  good  with  this  Lily  as  with  all  other  plants, 
that  where  cross-fertilization  has  once  been  effected 


LILY.  197 

that  marked  variations  will  be  noticeable  in  all  future 
generations. 

The  type  reaches  a  height  of  from  three  to  four  feet, 
bearing  from  four  to  twelve  ivory-white  flowers,  with  a 
distinct  central  band  of  bright  yellow,  with  numerous 
deep  purple  spots ;  when  fully  expanded  the  flowers  are 
from  eight  to  twelve  inches  across.  When  planted  in  a 
deep,  rich  soil,  the  stalks  often  assume  a  fasciated  form, 
producing  an  immense  number  of  flowers;  the  greatest1 
number  we  have  ever  seen  on  a  single  stem  being  one 
hundred  and  twenty-six.  Like  all  other  monstrosities, 
number  is  at  the  expense  of  beauty.  What  are  known 
to  the  trade  as  home-grown  bulbs  are  greatly  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  newly  imported  ones,  which  are  apt  to  be  taken 
up  before  the*:  are  fully  ripened,  besides  losing  much  of 
their  vitality  by  long  transit,  in  a  dry  state.  All  the 
forms  of  L.  auratum  succeed  admirably  when  grown  in 
pots,  because  then  they  are  not  likely  to  be  injured  by 
frost,  or  from  a  surfeit  of  water. 

Var.  rubra  vittatum. — This  form  differs  from  the 
type  by  having  a  band  of  rich  bright  crimson,  instead  of 
the  yellow,  and  in  the  spots,  which  have  a  brighter  tint. 

Var.  cruentum. — This  is  a  dwarf  form,  bearing 
large  flowers,  with  a  rather  dingy  maroon  stripe,  darken- 
ing towards  the  center,  with  purplish-crimson  spots. 

Var.  Emperor. — A  grand  flower,  of  good  shape 
and  substance,  with  reddish  spots  and  center. 

Var.  rubro-pictum. — When  this  flower  first  opens 
it  is  very  beautiful ;  the  bright  yellow  band  changes  to 
crimson  at  the  ends  of  the  petals ;  the  spots  are  of  the 
same  crimson  tint. 

Var.  pictum. — Same  as  the  last,  excepting  the  tip 
only,  or  lower  end  of  the  petal,  being  marked  with 
crimson. 

Var.  virginale. — This  is  unquestionably  the  grand- 
est of  all  the  L.  auratum  varieties,  and  if  it  were  not 


198  BULBS   ASTD    TUBEROUS-HOOTED   PLANTS. 

for  its  rarity,  which  greatly  enhances  its  cost,  all  other 
varieties  would  only  be  grown  to  make  a  collection 
complete.  In  this  flower  there  is  no  other  color  but  pure 
yellow  and  white ;  it  is  rarely  spotted,  the  spots1,  when 
present,  being  tinted  with  yellow;  the  petals  are  uni- 
form, very  heavy  and  papillose  at  the  base  of  all  the  divis- 
ions, giving  it  a  beautiful  crested  appearance. 

Var.  Wittei. — This  variety  was  introduced  by  E. 
H.  Krelage,  who  fancied  he  saw  in  it  distinct  characters 
from  those  so  pronounced  in  L.  a.  virginale;  if  such 
there  are,  none  but  an  expert  could  detect  them. 

L.  avenaceum  (Oat-like). — A  native  of  the  colder 
parts  of  Japan,  where  there  are  about  nine  months  winter 
and  three  of  extreme  heat,  yet  it  will  not  withstand  the 
rigors  of  northern  winters  without  protection.  It  grows 
about  two  feet  high,  producing  from  three  to  eight  spot- 
ted flowers,  in  general  appearance  resembling  our  native 
Canadense  species. 

L.  Batemanniae. — This  is  an  exceptionally  fine 
Lily,  growing,  when  properly  treated,  from  three  to  four 
feet  high,  bearing  from  six  to  twelve  semi-cup  shaped 
flowers,  unspotted,  of  a  clear  apricot  color.  It  comes 
into  flower  about  July  20th,  developing  slowly  and  con- 
tinuing a  long  time,  the  flowers  remaining  fresh  until 
they  drop.  Whether  it  is  a  true  species  or  garden  hybrid 
is  unknown.  It  is  probably  the  former.  Its  cultivation 
is  the  most  simple,  growing  freely  in  almost  any  soil  or 
situation,  increasing  very  rapidly  by  offsets.  We  should 
place  this  among  the  best  six  for  general  cultivation, 
both  as  regards  effect  and  beauty.  See  upper  flower  in 
the  engraving,  on  Page  204. 

L.  Batisua. — A  synonym  of  L.   WallicManum. 

L.  belladonna. — A  variety  described  by  Max 
Leichtlin,  from  a  drawing  sent  from  this  country.  We 
have  seen  this  Lily  in  bloom  in  the  garden  of  the  late 
P.  Hanson,  who  claimed  it  as  one  of  his  seedlings,  but 


LILT. 


199 


BROWN'S  LILY. 


200  BULBS   AND    TUBEKOUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

did  not  give  its  parentage.     The  stock  is  probably  lost. 

L.  bicolor. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans,  Page  208. 

L.  biligulatum. — A  synonym  of  L.  elegans  san- 
qninea.  See  Page  208. 

L.  Bloomerianum. — See  L.  Humboldtii,  Page  213. 

L.  Bourgsei. — A  variety  of  L.  pardalinum  (219). 

L.  brevifolium. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans,  Page  209. 

L.  Brownii. — Much  confusion  exists  in  regard  to 
the  origin  of  this  noble  Lily.  Some  consider  it  a  dis- 
tinct type ;  other,  and  good  authorities,  too,  say  it  is 
identical  with  L.  japonicum.  Certain  it  is,  that  a  close 
relation  exists  between  the  two,  as  well  as  with  L.  Col- 
chesterii,  and  also  L.  Takesima.  Many  regard  L.  longi- 
florum  the  parent  of  them  all.  Whatever  its  parentage 
may  be,  and  from  whatever  source  it  may  have  derived 
its  name,  there  is  no  disputing  the  fact  of  its  being  one 
of  the  grandest  of  Lilies.  When  properly  managed,  it 
attains  a  height  of  four  feet,  bearing  from  two  to  four 
flowers  eight  inches  in  length,  pure  ivory  white  inside, 
and  a  rich  chocolate  brown  on  the  outside  of  its  petals. 
The  contrast  in  its  colors,  when  first  opened,  is  remark- 
ably pleasing,  and  gives  the  flower  an  indescribable  rich- 
ness. This  Lily  is  but  little  grown,  from  the  mistaken 
idea  that  it  is  difficult  to  manage,  and  because  of  its 
high  price.  Neither  reason  should  stand  in  the  way  of 
its  general  cultivation.  Its  management  is  not  at  all 
difficult,  its  requirements  being  a  good  rich  soil,  free 
from  stimulating  manures;  a  situation  where  water  does 
not  cover  the  ground  at  any  time;  and  sure  protec- 
tion against  frost.  The  bulbs  increase  rapidly,  when 
grown  under  these  conditions,  which  soon  renders  cheap 
a  bed  of  rare  flowers.  These  bulbs  are  impatient  of  rest, 
out  of  ground,  consequently  long  voyages  are  fatal  to 
them.  Bulbs  should  be  obtained  directly  from  the 
grower,  and  planted  as  soon  as  received  ;  it  matters  but 
little  as  to  season,  preferring  the  period  of  rest  for  their 


LILY.  201 

removal,  as  with  all  other  Lilies.  Frequent  removals 
are  injurious.  So  long  as  they  flower  well  do  not  disturb 
them.  See  Engraving  on  Page  199. 

L.  bulbiferum. — This  species  was  known  and 
described  by  Parkinson  in  1629,  and  from  that  day  until 
the  present  it  has  never  had  a  fixed  place  in  the  family 
of  Lilies,  and  is  known  under  a  great  variety  of  names. 
L.  croceumz3LT\<l  L.  umbellatum  being  the  more  common 
appellations.  This  confusion  arises  from  the  fact  of  its 
name  being  misleading.  Its  name  would  imply  bulb- 
bearing  at  the  axils  of  its  leaves,  as  is  the  case  with  the 
Z.  tigrinum,  the  ordinary  Tiger  Lily,  which  it  rarely,  if 
ever,  does.  Sometimes,  if  the  flower-heads  be  removed 
early  in  the  season,  small  bulbs  will  form  at  the  axils  of 
the  leaves,  but  this  is  not  sufficient  to  warrant  its  dis- 
tinctive name.  It  is  a  native  of  Central  Europe,  grows 
from  two  to  three  feet  high,  bearing  an  umbel  of  from 
four  to  eight  large,  broad -petaled,  cup-shaped  flowers, 
of  a  rich,  dark  cherry  red  color,  having  an  orange  blotch, 
and  a  few  black  dots  in  the  center.  It  is  what  might, 
with  considerable  propriety,  be  termed  hardy.  It  is  a 
strong,  vigorous  grower,  very  showy,  and  thriving  under 
nearly  all  circumstances. 

L.  Buschianum. — A  variety  of  L.  concolor. 

L.  californicum. — A  variety  of  L.    parddlinum,  _ 

L.  callosum. — An  early,  small  flowering  Lily  from 
Japan,  where  its  bulbs  are  grown,  like  those  of  L.  ti- 
grinum, as  an  article  of  food;  flowers  are  bright  red, 
produced  in  a  raceme  of  from  four  to  eight.  A  variety, 
stenophyllum,  from  Eastern  Siberia,  is  of  a  taller  and 
stronger  habit.  This  variety  closely  resembles  L.  tenui- 
folium,  but  has  not  the  same  grace  and  brilliancy  of 
color. 

L.  canadense. — This  is  the  species  so  common  in 
our  meadows,  and  known  as  the  Meadow  Lily.  It  grows 
from  two  to  four  feet  high,  bearing  from  one  to  tea 


202  BULBS  AXD  TUBEROUS-HOOTED   PLANTS. 

drooping,  bell-shaped  yellow  flowers,  shaded  with  orange. 
Like  all  indigenous  plants,  it  is  easily  grown,  and  capa- 
ble of  improvement  by  good  cultivation.  Its  varieties 
are : 

Var.  rubrum. — A  strong  grower,  free  flowering; 
color  bright  crimson,  with  small  spots.  In  clumps, 
under  cultivation,  it  is  exceedingly  beautiful. 

Yar.  flavum. — This  has  the  same  general  habit  as 
the  foregoing;  its  flowers  are  bright  yellow,  slightly 
tinged  with  crimson,  and  spotted  with  brown. 

Var.  parvum. — A  form  common  in  California, 
growing  from  four  to  six  feet  high,  and  bears  in  a  raceme 
on  long  stalks,  a  great  number  of  pendulous,  small  yel- 
low dotted  flowers,  with  broad,  blunt  petals;  foliage  in 
whorls. 

Var.  parviflorum. — A  form  closely  resembling  the 
above,  differing  in  its  lower  growth  and  smaller  flowers. 

Var.  maritimum. — Is  a  small-flowered  maritime 
Lily,  found  in  low,  peaty  meadows  on  the  coast  near 
San  Francisco.  The  flowers  are  deep  reddish  orange- 
brown,  spotted  dark  purple  inside.  Like  most  of  the 
California  Lilies,  this  variety  does  not  like  the  Eastern 
climate  of  America,  and  does  not  succeed  well  there. 

L.  candidum. — This  species  is  older  than  history, 
as  the  first  notice  made  of  plants  speaks  of  it  as  a  "well- 
known  plant."  It  is  the  loveliest,  as  well  as  the  oldest, 
and  if  we  were  to  have  but  one  Lily,  Candidum  would 
be  the  one.  As  a  garden  flower  the  cultivation  of 
Candida m  is  most  simple.  It  will  thrive  in  any  fairly 
good  soil,  but  to  insure  a  free  growth  and  a  profusion  of 
flowers,  the  soil  should  be  rich,  deep  and  moist.  It  is, 
therefore,  best  to  make  suitable  arrangements  for  the 
bed  by  first  selecting  a  favorable  situation,  and  then  put- 
ting it  in  the  most  perfect  condition  by  digging  deep 
and  enriching  thoroughly.  Plantings  should  always  be 
made  in  August,  when  the  bulbs  are  at  rest;  very  soon 


LILY.  2C3 

thereafter  they  commence  their  autumn  growth  of  leaves, 
upon  which,  in  a  great  measure,  depends  their  next 
season's  flowering.  After  planting,  it  is  best  to  leave 
them  undisturbed  so  long  as  they  bloom  in  a  satisfactory 
manner.  Wm.  Robinson,  of  the  Garden,  says:  "It  is 
one  of  the  kinds  that  dislike  coddling  or  being  meddled 
with,  and  thrives  best  when  left  undisturbed  for  years  in 
good  garden  soil.  Any  attempt  to  deal  with  it  in  the 
same  manner  as  with  the  more  delicate  ones,  generally 
results  in  failure."  In  our  climate,  where  we  have  such 
extremes  of  weather  during  winter,  with  but  little  snow, 
mulching,  as  recommended  in  our  cultural  instructions, 
is  an  absolute  necessity.  Shaded,  or  partially  shaded, 
situations,  are  often  recommended  for  Lilies,  and,  as  a 
rule,  such  are  best;  but  for  Candid um  an  open,  sunny 
position,  where  it  can  have  a  free  circulation  of  air,  is 
preferable.  Shelter  from  our  cold,  northerly  winds  is 
desirable,  as  in  much  exposed  places  it  often  fails  to 
flower,  owing  to  the  destruction  of  the  incipient  flower- 
buds,  by  frost  in  May.  For  directions  for  pot  culture  or 
for  forcing  in  the  greenhouse,  see  cultural  instructions, 
Page  188.  The  varieties  of  Lilium  candidum  are  : 

Var.  foliis  aureo  marginatis. — A  form  in  which 
a  broad  golden  margin  to  the  foliage  prevails;  very 
beautiful  for  greenhouse  culture.  The  flower  is  the 
same,  in  all  respects,  as  that  of  the  species,  excepting 
that  it  is  a  clearer  white  with  little  less  substance. 

Var.  striatum. — A  form  with  fine  purple  streaks 
running  through  flower  and  foliage.  More  singular 
than  beautiful. 

Yar.  flore  pleno  (L.  spicatum  monstrosum). — An 
abnormal  form,  the  flowers  being  abortive,  the  leaves 
assuming  the  character  of  a  flower  on  the  upper  part  of 
the  stalk.  Except  as  a  curiosity  it  is  of  no  value. 

Var.  peregrinum. — A  more  slender  growing  form, 
but  little  known  or  cultivated. 


204:  BULBS  AND   TUBEKOUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

L.  carniolicum. — A  native  of  the  Levant,  Austria 
and  Lombardy.  A  strong  grower,  stems  rising  from, 
two  to  three  feet.  Flowers  appearing  very  early,  last  of 
May  or  early  in  June ;  delightfully  fragrant,  color  bright 
orange-scarlet,  spotted  with  black. 


BATEMAN'S,  AND  THE  CHALCEDONIAN  LILY. 

L.  carolinianum. — Allied  to  L.  superlum,  which 
see. 

L.  Catesbsei. — A  native  of  South  Carolina  and 
Florida,  with  fine  grass-like  foliage  and  very  slender 
flower  stalk.  Flowers  closely  resembling  L.  philadelphi- 


LILT.  205 

cum  ;  it  is  very  tender,  will  not  endure  even  a  Virginian 
winter.  Bulbs  delicate,  and  impatient  of  removal.  It 
is  only  valuable  in  botanical  collections. 

L.  cattanese. — A  variety  of  L.  Martagon>  Page  216. 

L.  Chaixii. — A  variety  of  L.  croceum,  Page  206. 

L.  chalcedonicum. — A  very  old  and  handsome 
Lily,  rarely  met  in  our  gardens,  from  the  fact  of  its  not 
being  sufficiently  hardy  to  survive  our  winter.  With  but 
little  care  ^protecting  it,  it  would  thrive  with  the  same 
luxuriance  as  L.  candidum,  and,  like  that  species,  it  dis- 
likes removals.  In  England  this  Lily  grows  from  three 
to  four  feet  high,  bearing  several  pendulous,  vermilion- 
red,  turban-shaped  flowers  in  July.  With  us  it  flowers 
in  June,  and  is  well  worth  a  place  in  every  collection 
(See  lower  flowers  in  engraving  on  opposite  page). 

Yar.  pyrenaicum.  —  A  variety  from  the  moun- 
tains of  Albania,  is  described  by  D.  T.  Fish  as  having 
fiery  red  flowers,  and  by  Dr.  Wallace  as  having  yellow 
flowers.  Mr.  Fish  refers  to  L.  flavum,  which  he  calls  a 
"yellow  beauty."  The  two  forms  undoubtedly  exist, 
with  a  slight  confusion  in  nomenclature. 

L.  citrinum. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans. 

L.  colchicum.— See  L.  monadelphum,  Page  217. 

L.  columbianum. — A  native  of  Oregon,  growing 
at  a  high  elevation,  in  dry,  sandy  soil.  It  has  a  very 
graceful  form,  growing  from  three  to  four  feet  high  ; 
flowers  quite  numerous,  pendulous,  and  of  a  bright  yel- 
low color.  It  thrives  much  better  East  than  most  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  species. 

L.  concolor. — A  very  dwarf  and  beautiful  species 
from  Japan.  Its  bulbs  have  a  tendency  to  break  up ;  a 
bulb  not  more  than  an  inch  in  diameter  will  frequently 
throw  up  five  or  six  stems ;  this  will,  in  a  measure,  be 
avoided  by  leaving  the  bulbs  where  planted  for  a  number 
of  years.  The  plant  grows  from  two  to  twelve  inches 
high,  and  produces  from  one  to  three  crimson,  erect, 


206  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAKTS. 

star-shaped  flowers,  slightly  spotted.     Of  this  species  we 
notice  the  following  varieties  : 

Var.  Coridion. — In  all  respects  like  the  species, 
excepting  that  the  flowers  are  a  trifle  larger,  and  of  a  rich 
yellow  color,  slightly  flaked  with  brown. 

Var.  sinicum. — A  Chinese  variety,  growing  from 
two  to  three  feet  high,  bearing  from  four  to  six  larger 
and  more  spotted  flowers,  from  a  somewhat  larger  bulb 
than  that  of  the  species.  But  little  known  in  this 
country. 

Var.  pulchellum. — A  Siberian  variety,  flowering 
much  earlier,  growing  from  one  and  one-half  to  two  feet 
high,  bearing  a  star-shaped  crimson  flower,  very  similar 
to  that  of  the  species,  but  with  narrower  and  smaller 
petals. 

Var.  Buschianum. — Scarlet  with  black  spots. 

Var.  Partheneion. — A  form  so  closely  allied  to  L. 
concolor,  that  a  specific  name  should  not  have  been 
given  it. 

L.  cordifolium  (Heart-shaped).— This  is  strictly  a 
greenhouse  plant,  as  it  will  not  thrive  out  of  doors ;  a 
native  of  Japan,  growing  from  five  to  ten  feet  high  ;  in 
flower  it  is  one  of  the  most  majestic  of  all  known  Lilies. 
The  flowers  are  produced  in  racemes  from  fifteen  to 
twenty-four  inches  long,  with  from  six  to  twelve  flowers 
in  a  raceme.  See  also  under  Giganteum,  Page  212. 

L.  Coridion. — See  L.  concolor,  Page  200. 

L.  coVymbiflorum. — A  form  of  L.  speciosum. 

L.  croceum  (Orange). — This  is  an  old  and  com- 
mon inhabitant  of  our  gardens,  and  one  of  the  most 
hardy.  It  is  a  native  of  the  colder  mountain  districts  of 
Europe,  and  will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation. 
It  grows  about  two  feet  high,  producing  enormous  heads 
of  large,  rich  orange-colored  flowers.  The  introduction 
of  the  Japanese  species  has  nearly  driven  this  Lily 
from  many  of  our  gardens. 


LILY.  20? 

Var.  £haixii.— A  rather  pleasing  form  bearing  but 
one  or  two  flowers  on  a  spike,  not  more  than  fifteen 
inches  high.  INot  much  cultivated. 

Bermuda  Lily. — A  common  name  for  L.  longiflo- 
rum,  var.  eximium,  Pages  189  and  215. 

L.  cruentum. — A  variety  of  L.  speciosum. 

L.  dalmaticum.— A  sub- variety  of  L.  Martagon. 

L.  Davidi. — A  synonym  of  Partheneion,  Page  206. 

L.  davuricum. — This  species  resembles  L.  tubiflo- 
rum,  in  its  large,  erect,  open,  bell-shaped  flowers,  which 
are  deep  red,  yellowish  in  the  center,  and  dark  spotted. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  its  class,  flowering  well 
in  partial  shade.  Like  others  nearly  allied,  this  species 
has  many  varieties,  most  of  which  are  described  under 
other  species. 

Easter  Lily. — A  common  name  for  L.  longiflorum 
eximium,  formerly  applied  to  L.  candidum,  Page  202. 

L.  elegans. — An  early  flowering  Lily,  and  one  of 
the  best  for  general  cultivation,  for  early  flowers  and  for 
display.  It  was  formerly  sent  out  under  the  name  of 
L.  T  Tinnier gianum,  which  is  now  regarded  as  a  sub- 
variety  of  the  species.  It  is  a  variable  species,  there 
now  being  listed  more  than  a  score  of  varieties,  and 
probably  as  many  sub-varieties.  The  type  grows  about 
one  foot  high,  with  stout,  erect  stems,  furnished  with 
numerous  narrow  leaves,  and  terminated  with  an  umbel 
of  dark  orange-red  flowers,  from  five  to  six  inches  across. 
Dr.  Wallace,  the  celebrated  authority  on  Lilies,  has 
made  the  following  very  excellent  classification  of  the 
varieties : 

>  Group  A. 

Var.  armeniacum  (  venustum). — One  of  the  latest 
flowering ;  a  rich  vermilion  orange-colored  form,  with- 
out spots,  known  at  once  by  its  peculiar  twisted  foliage; 
it  grows  about  one  foot  high. 


208  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

Var.  fulgens. — Also  about  one  foot  high,  with 
spotted,  reddish  flowers. 

Var.  fulgens  flore  pleno  (staminatum).  —  The 
double  form  of  the  foregoing  variety,  remarkable  more 
as  a  curiosity  than  for  its  beauty. 

Var.  fulgens  atrosanguineum. — This  is  really  a 
fine  variety,  being  more  robust  in  habit  than  the  original 
Fulgens,  and  of  a  deeper,  rich  blood-red  tint. 

Var.  fulgens  alternans. — A  light  tinted  form  of 
Fulgens,  suffused  and  flaked  with  lighter  tints. 

Var.  sanguineum  (biligulatum). — An  early  form, 
inclined  somewhat  to  be  cup-shaped  in  flower,  but  with 
narrow  petals ;  reddish-brown  flower,  with  a  few  dark 
spots. 

Var.  alutaceum. — Known  under  a  great  variety  of 
names  by  the  Dutch  growers;  a  very  distinct  dwarf 
form,  about  six  inches  high,  with  rich  apricot-colored 
flowers,  systematically  spotted.  A  larger  form  of  this  is 
known  under  the  name  Grandiflorum,  with  more  robust 
habit,  and  larger,  richer  colored  flowers. 

Var.  Prince  of  Orange. — The  most  beautiful 
spotted  variety,  of  a  soft,  pleasing,  light  buff  tint ;  also 
dwarf. 

Group  B. 

Var.  bicolor  (pictum). — One  of  the  handsomest  of 
the  forms,  but  the  petals  are  flimsy,  and  its  beauties  are 
soon  over ;  a  stout-growing  form,  from  one  to  two  feet 
high,  bearing  several  large,  broad-petaled,  few-spotted, 
slightly  cup-shaped  flowers,  yellow  tinted,  but  tipped 
and  splashed  with  crimson  tints,  and  when  quite  fresh, 
with  a  lilac  sheen. 

Var.  aurantiacum  verum. — This  is  a  noble  plant 
and  a  distinct  variety.  Unfortunately,  when  we  buy  it, 
it  is  not  always  as  true  as  its  name  would  indicate.  We 
consider  it  the  peer  of  Excelsum ;  its  flowers  are  large, 


LILY.  209 

well  arranged,  of  excellent  form,  and  of  a  clear 
yellowish  salmon  color. 

Var.  marmoratum. — A  very  early  form,  broad- 
petaled,  of  a  deep,  rich  crimson  color,  flaked  and  tipped 
with  orange;  spotted. 

Var.  marmoratum  aureum. — Another  very  early 
variety;  more  spotted  than  the  last,  the  yellow  pre- 
dominating, with  red  margins. 

Var.  Alice  Wilson. — This  is  decidedly  the  finest 
Lily  in  this  class,  and  rivals  the  Monadelphum  in  rich- 
ness of  color  and  general  effect  as  a  border  plant.  It 
grows  about  two  feet  high,  producing  from  three  to 
eight  large,  well-opened,  finely-shaped  flowers,  of  a 
deep,  clear  lemon  color,  with  small  spots.  Like  all  of 
its  class,  it  is  easy  to  manage,  and  is  readily  increased 
by  offsets,  a  decided  advantage. 

Var.  Maurii. — A  very  large  flower,  orange-crim- 
son, heavily  and  distinctly  spotted,  and  richly  shaded. 

Var.  Van  Houttei. — A  richly  tinted,  deep  scarlet 
form,  with  a  yellow  blotch  in  the  center,  and  sometimes 
at  the  tip;  broad-petaled ;  very  beautiful,  contrasting 
grandly  with  the  Alice  Wilson. 

Var.  Horsmanni. — A  deep  blood-red,  broad-pet- 
aled form,  spotted;  one  of  the  handsomest  and  most 
richly  tinted. 

Group    C. 

Var.  brevifolium.  —  Distinguished  by  its  very 
short,,  acutely-pointed,  broad,  thick  leaves,  only  one 
and  one-half  to  two  and  one-half  inches  long;  very 
early  flowering;  flowers  cup-shaped,  and  of  a  light 
reddish  tint,  with  a  purplish  gloss;  spotted,  tips  flaked 
with  yellow. 

Var.  splendens. — This  form,  in  its  relation  to  the 
species,  is  rightly  named,  growing  two  and  one-half  feet 
high,  with  a  stout  stem,  and  L.  umbellatum-likQ  foliage; 


210  BULBS  AKD  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

very  light  green,  three  inches  long,  having  an  umbel  of 
deeply-cupped,  very  large  flowers,  of  ti  rich  apricot  yel- 
low with  purple  spots.  It  is  particularly  desirable 
because  it  is  the  earliest  flowering  variety  in  the  group. 

Var.  Wilsoni  (pardinum). — A  very  desirable  vari- 
ety because  of  its  being  the  latest  to  flower,  thus  keep- 
ing up  a  succession.  It  is  a  strong  grower,  two  feet 
high,  stem  bronzed  below,  green  above,  the  leaves  quite 
short,  gloss}7,  of  a  very  deep  green,  and  curled  down- 
wards ;  the  flowers  very  large,  deeply  cupped,  apricot 
tinted,  with  a  broad  yellow  band  down  the  center  of  the 
petal. 

We  cannot  dismiss  the  Elegans  and  Auratum  species 
without  noticing  the  ease  with  which  they  are  grown 
from  seed.  The  tendency  to  variation  in  form  and 
color,  by  cross-fertilization,  has  increased  the  number  of 
varieties  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent.  This  has  offered 
the  growers  a  fine  opportunity  to  gratify  a  very  natural 
desire  to  honor  their  friends  by  naming  a  flower  to  com- 
memorate their  memories,  no  less  than  the  gratification 
that  comes  from  the  production  of  a  desirable  form, 
which  is  to  be  known  as  the  result  of  the  labors  of  their 
own  hands,  guided  by  their  knowledge  and  skill  in  gar- 
dening. However  commendable  this  zeal  may  be,  it  is 
liable  to  be  overdone,  working  a  real  injury  to  the  ama- 
teur who  does  not  detect  sufficient  variation  in  many 
forms  to  entitle  them  to  distinctive  varietal  names.  In 
those  already  noticed,  the  casual  observer,  or  those  who 
desire  Lilies  simply  for  display,  would  not  sanction  more 
than  three  or  four  distinct  types,  and  he  or  they  would 
very  naturally  think  that  these  names  were  applied  sim- 
ply for  purposes  of  sale.  In  a  measure,  this  is  true  ;  in 
reality,  not ;  an  enthusiast  will  always  see  more  to  admire 
in  any  form,  than  an  ordinary  observer,  and  if  the  form 
is  a  creature  of  his  own  head  and  hands  his  vision  is 
doubly  active.  On  the  other  hand,  the  beginner  will  take 


LILY.  211 

a  highly  recommended  variety,  and  will,  to  his  surprise, 
find  it  will  answer  the  description  given,  at  least,  to  a 
dozen  other  varieties  of  the  same  species ;  for  that  reason 
we  have  omitted  descriptions  of  very  many  desirable 
named  sorts. 

L.  excelsum  (testaceum)  (Isabellinum). — This  is 
a  superb  Lily,  with  a  mixed  history  and  a  variety  of 
names.  It  has  been  generally  supposed  to  be  a  hybrid  be- 
tween L.  candidum  and  L.  chalcedonicum.  There  is  but 
little  evidence  to  support  the  theory,  and  it  is  said  to 
have  first  been  seen  in  a  bed  of  seedlings  in  Erfurt  in 
1846.  Dr.  Wallace  says  of  it :  "It  has  been  thought  not 
to  have  a  Japanese  origin,  because  no  bulbs  of  it  have 
ever  been  traced  as  coming  over  from  the  Islands  of  the 
Western  Sea,  so  productive  of  new  and  graceful  forms; 
but  we  have  seen,  more  than  once,  in  Japanese  drawings 
executed  for  us  years  ago  by  some  of  the  best  artists  in 
Yeddo  [Tokio],  of  all  the  Lilies  of  Japan,  forms  rep- 
resented bearing  a  very  strong  resemblance  to  Excelsum. 
It  is  true  that  among  these  Lilies  there  are  some  most 
wonderful  forms  and  gorgeous  pieces  of  coloring,  such 
as  would  lead  many  to  disbelieve  in  the  veracity  of 
the  artist;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  we  can  point  to 
other  Lily  forms  which  we  know  well,  depicted  therein 
with  fair  accuracy,  while  the  birds  and  insects  portrayed 
in  some  numbers,  we  recognize  to  have  been  truthfully 
delineated.  Our  own  conclusion  is  that,  as  yet,  we  have 
scarcely  touched  the  rich  treasure  of  wonderful  Lilies 
which  Japan  will  one  day  send  to  us."  Whatever  may 
have  been  the  origin  of  Excelsum,  how3  or  where,  or 
when  it  was  born,  makes  but  little  difference,  and  does 
not  alter  the  fact  that  in  grace,  form,  color  and  fra- 
grance it  has  but  few  equals,  and  no  superior  in  this 
noble  family  of  plants.  It  is,  moreover,  of  easy  culture, 
succeeding  best  in  a  loamy  soil  and  in  a  partially  shaded 
situation.  It  has  often  been  asserted  that  this  Lily  had 


212  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-HOOTED  PLANTS. 

a  feeble  constitution  ;  that  under  the  most  favorable  cir- 
cumstances it  would  soon  die  out.  We  are  confident 
this  is  a  mistake,  and  the  oft- repeated  failures  with  it 
have  been  the  results  of  over-estimating  its  hardiness. 
Another  cause  of  failure  arises  from  planting  bulbs  that 
have  been  kept  too  long  out  of  the  ground  ;  in  a  dry  state 
they  lose  vitality  very  quickly.  The  stems  grow  from 
three  to  five  feet  high,  and  produce  from  three  to  twelve 
beautifully  reflexed  flowers  of  a  rich  buff  color,  delicately 
spotted.  In  flowering,  it  follows  soon  after  Candidum. 

L.  eximium. — See  L.  longiflorum,  Page  215. 

L.  fulgens. — A  form  of  L.  elegans,  Page  208. 

L.  giganteum. — This  is  a  majestic  plant,  but  like 
L.  cordifolium,  it  should  not  be  classed  with  garden 
Lilies,  at  least  not  in  America.  Its  place  is  the 
greenhouse,  where,  with  proper  management,  it  is  a 
grand  plant.  As  many  attempts  are  made  to  grow  this 
plant,  and  usually  without  success,  we  quote  Dr.  Wal- 
lace, regarding  its  character.  "A  peculiarity  of  this 
species  (and,  we  believe,  of  L.  cordifolium  also)  is,  that 
seedling  bulbs  or  offsets  grow  on,  increasing  in  size,  till 
in  a  period  of  from  three  to  five  years  a  large  bulb  is 
formed,  in  the  case  of  L.  giganteum,  from  five  to  seven 
inches  in  length,  and  ten  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter ; 
hitherto  the  foliage  has  been  broad  and  low  growing ; 
but  when  the  bulb  has  attained  the  size  mentioned,  it 
throws  up  in  the  spring  a  much  thicker  bud — by  many 
likened  to  a  young  cabbage — whence  a  stout  stem  arises, 
sometimes  six  inches  in  diameter  and  from  five  to  ten 
feet  high,  studded  with  numerous  flowers,  resembling 
somewhat  the  flowering  spike  of  an  Aloe,  forming  a 
striking  and  beautiful  object.  In  the  meanwhile  the 
bulb,  exhausted  by  the  process,  decays  and  disappears, 
leaving  from  three  to  five  small  offsets,  which,  in  due 
course,  increase  in  size,  and,  under  favorable  circum- 
stances, repeat  the  performance.  We  should  not  have 


LILY.  213 

said  so  much  in  regard  to  this  Lily,  but  for  the  fact  that 
it  is  quite  as  important  to  say  what  a  plant  will  not  do, 
as  well  as  what  it  will  do. 

L.  Glehnii. — A  variety  of  L.  cordifolium,  Page 
206,  but  little  cultivated. 

L.  Hansoni. — Named  in  honor  of  the  late  P.  Han- 
son, of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  an  enthusiastic  bulb  grower, 
by  Max  Leichtlin,  one  of  the  best  authorities  on  Lilies. 
A  well  defined  species  growing  from  two  to  four  feet 
high,  foliage  bright  green,  in  whorls,  producing  from 
four  to  twelve  dark  yellow  flowers,  remarkable  for  the 
thickness  of  petal  and  wax-like  appearance.  It  will 
thrive  as  luxuriantly  as  the  common  Tiger  Lily,  and  is 
quite  as  hardy.  It  increases  rather  slowly,  by  offsets 
and  division ;  flowers  in  June.  In  every  collection  of 
as  many  as  twelve  Lilies  this  should  be  included. 

L.  Horsmanni.— A  variety  of  L.  eleyans,  Page  209. 

L.  Humboldtii. — This  is  the  most  showy  and~ 
graceful,  and  the  most  useful  of  all  the  species  found  on 
the  Pacific  coast.  It  adapts  itself  to  our  climate  fairly 
well.  Like  most  of  the  California  species,  it  wants  to 
grow  during  our  winter,  and  rest  during  our  summer; 
yet  we  have  had  it  do  well  enough  to  warrant  having  it 
in  a  general  collection.  If  the  situation  is  favorable, 
such  as  partial  shade  and  a  deep,  rich  soil,  it  will  grow  six 
feet  high,  producing  from  thirty  to  forty  flowers,  bright 
orange-red,  spotted  with  black.  Disappointment  will 
surely  follow  the  growing  of  this  Lily,  unless  it  is  thor- 
oughly protected  against  frost.  There  is  but  one  vari- 
ety, Ocellatum,  which  is  not  as  vigorous  a  grower  as  the 
species;  it  has  larger  flowers,  the  spots  of  which  are  sur- 
rounded with  a  yellow  circle ;  it  is  a  distinct  form,  but 
little  known. 

L.  isabellinum. — A  synonym  of  L.  excelsum. 

L.  jama-jure. — The  Japanese  name  for  L,  T«ke- 
sirna. 


214  BULBS  AND   TUBEKOUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

L.  japonicum. — A  synonym  for  L.  Krameri. 

L.  jocundum. — A  synonym  of  L.  pseudo-tigrinum. 

L.   Kraetzeri. — A  variety  of  L.  speciosum  album. 

L.  Krameri. — In  habit  this  form  resembles  a 
small-growing  L.  auratum;  a  more  graceful  or  pleasing 
Lily  is  rarely  met.  It  is  a  native  of  the  mountains  of 
Japan,  although  often  referred  to  as  a  Japanese  hybrid. 
It  is  a  delicate,  low-growing  form,  producing  from  one 
to  five  blush-white,  varying  to  clear  pink,  flowers,  some- 
what of  the  form  of  Auratum,  and  very  fragrant.  It 
will  grow  well  in  all  dry  soils,  with  ample  protection 
against  frost. 

L.  lancifolium. — A  synonym  of  L.  elegans,  Page 
207,  also  of  L.  speciosunt,  Page  222. 

L.  Ledebourii. — A  variety  of  L.  monadelpJium. 

L.  Leichtlinii. — A  most  beautiful  species,  in  habit 
resembling  L.  tigrinum,  growing  from  three  to  five  feet 
high,  bearing  from  ten  to  thirty  clear  yellow,  drooping 
flowers,  with  small  black  spots.  It  is  a  free  grower,  pro- 
duced rapidly  from  seed.  It  has  a  habit  peculiar  to 
itself,  its  shooting  stem  often  running  along  a  foot  or 
more  beneath  the  soil  before  making  its  appearance; 
care  should  be  taken  in  digging  about  the  bed  until  the 
stems  have  had  sufficient  time  to  appear  above  ground. 

L.  Leichtlinii  majus. — Properly  known  as  L. 
pseudo-tigrinum,  Page  221. 

L.  Lishmanni. — Included  in  L.  tigrinum. 

L.  longiflorum. — It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  valuable  Lilies  for  the  open  border,  as  well  as  the 
one  mostly  employed  for  forcing.  The  typical  form 
grows  about  two  feet  high,  the  stems  being  terminated 
with  from  one  to  eight  long,  tubular,  waxy-white  flow- 
ers, intensely  fragrant.  There  are  several  varieties  of 
this  Lily,  one  of  which,  eximium,  for  a  few  years, 
seemed  to  be  the  only  one  used  for  forcing  by  the  florists. 
Many  of  the  best  growers  have,  of  late,  discarded  it^  ancl 


LILY.  215 

are  again  using  the  type  for  forcing  for  the  cut  flower 
trade.  They  find  the  flowers  of  the  longiflorum  have 
more  substance  than  those  of  the  eximium  (Bermuda 
Lily,  See  Page  189),  and  are  not  so  liable  to  be  injured 
in  handling  and  carrying.  Besides,  the  flowers  are  not 
so  large,  which,  in  many  kinds  of  floral  work,  is  a  point 
in  their  favor.  For  methods  of  forcing,  see  Page  191. 
The  varieties  of  L.  longiflorum  are  as  follows : 

Var.  eximium. — This  is  characterized  by  its  flowers 
appearing  at  right  angles  with  the  stem,  by  its  larger 
and  more  numerous  flowers,  and  by  its  earliness,  coming 
into  bloom  about  two  weeks  earlier  than  the  type.  This 
is  the  one  known  in  the  trade  as  the  Bermuda  Lily,  and 
because  of  its  many  flowers,  it  was  also  sent  out  as  L. 
floribundum.  It  is  also  called  Easter  Lily,  Page  j  94. 

Var.  Takesima. — This  is  a  distinct  variety,  and 
may  be  readily  distinguished  by  its  purplish  stems,  and 
a  violet  tint  on  the  outside  of  the  flower,  which  shows 
very  plainly  in  the  unopened  bud,  but  is  not  noticed 
after  the  flower  is  fully  developed. 

Var.  Wilsonii. — This  is  the  grandest  of  all  the 
varieties  for  the  open  border,  or  for  a  specimen  plant  in 
the  greenhouse ;  it  grows  nearly  four  feet  high,  corres- 
pondingly strong,  bearing  from  four  to  eight  flowers, 
well  opened,  about  nine  inches  in  length. 

Var.  Madame  Von  Siebold. — We  have  not  seen 
this  flower,  but  from  descriptions,  should  regard  it  a 
synonym  of  L.  ?.,  var.  Wilsonii.  It  is  claimed,  however, 
that  there  is  a  difference  in  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
flower. 

L.  lucidum. — A  native  of  Oregon  and  Washington, 
introduced  by  Mr.  Kellogg.  It  seems  an  intermediate 
form  between  Z.  superbum  and  L.  canadense.  "We  do 
not  think  there  is  more  difference  between  them  than 
the  difference  in  climate  would  make,  that  when  grown 
on  the  Atlantic  coast  a  few  years  it  would  have  all  the 


216  BULBS   AND    TUBEKOUS-KOOTED   PLANTS. 

characteristics  of  L.  canadense,  and  that  if  the  lattei 
were  grown  in  Oregon  it  would  assume  the  form  of  L. 
lucidum. 

L.  macrophyllum. — A  species  too  little  known  to 
warrant  a  description,  or  to  be  recommended  for  culti- 
vation. It  is  found  in  Cashmere.  Said  to  be  very  beau- 
tiful and  fragrant. 

L.  Mad.  Von.  Siebold. — See  L.  longiflorum  (215) 

L.  maritimum. — See  L.  canadense,  Page  201. 

L.  marmoratum. — See  L.  elegans,  Page  209. 

L.  Martagon  (The  Turk's  Cap  Lily).— This  old 
inhabitant  of  the  garden  is  a  plant  we  could  do  very  well 
without.  The  type  has  no  real  beauty.  It  grows  about 
three  feet  high,  bearing  numerous  flowers  of  pleasing 
shape,  but  of  a  dull,  lifeless  color.  See  Page  176. 

Var.  album. — A  beautiful  flower,  pure  white, 
small,  but  very  graceful.  See  Page  176. 

Yar.  dalmaticum. — The  grandest  of  the  group, 
and  having  but  few  superiors  in  the  genus.  Under 
favorable  circumstances  it  will  grow  six  feet  hioh,  and 
yield  an  enormous  number  of  beautifully  reflexed  flowers, 
of  a  shining  blackish-purple.  The  home  of  all  the 
Turk's  Cap  Lilies  is  in  England.  At  Wares'  nursery, 
Tottenham,  we  saw  these  Lilies  growing  so  grandly  that 
we  scarcely  recognized  them,  and  supposed  them  to  be 
new  varieties.  Our  summers'  sun  and  winters'  cold  do 
not  agree  with  these  forms,  and  to  have  them  approach 
perfection  they  need  a  heavy  mulching  in  winter,  and  a 
light  one,  with  partial  shade,  in  summer. 

Var.  Cattanese. — A  synonym  of  Dalmaticum. 

Var.  hirsutum. — This  is  a  strong  growing  form 
with  hairy  stems. 

Var.  glabrum. — A  synonym  of  Martagon  album. 

L.  Maurii. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans,  Page  209. 

L.  Maximowiczii. — A  synonym  of  L.  pseudo* 
tigrinum,  Page  221. 


LILY.  217 

L.  medeoloides. — A  Japanese  form,  with  the  habit 
of  L.  concolor  and  L.  pulchellum.  It  is  a  very  difficult 
subject  to  manage  from  imported  bulbs,  which  are  so 
small,  and  with  such  delicate,  thin  scales,  that  they 
easily  perish.  A  good  stock  can  only  be  procured  in 
this  country  by  growing  them  from  seeds. 

L.  Melpomene. — A  seedling  form  from  L.  sped- 
osum  rubrum,  to  which  it  is  referred. 

L.  Michauxii. — A  synonym  of  L.  carolinianum. 

L.  monadelphum. — This  truly  magnificent  Lily 
has  had  a  difficult  time  in  establishing  its  name.  From 
time  to  time  it  has  appeared  under  several  names,  and 
various  varieties  have  appeared  under  its  name.  The 
chief  difference  in  the  varieties  being,  that  some  are 
spotted,  others  plain,  and  that  some  have  larger  flowers 
than  the  type.  These  variations  will  be  noticed  in  the 
varieties.  In  the  open  border  the  Monadelphum  grows 
from  two  to  three  feet  high,  with  a  terminal  cluster  of 
from  six  to  twenty  turban-shaped  flowers,  ranging  in 
color  from  a  rich  canary-yellow  to  a  pale  lemon-yellow. 
This  Lily  and  its  varieties  are  of  Asiatic  origin ;  all  suc- 
ceed well  in  rich  soil,  in  partial  shade,  where  water  does 
not  stand.  It  may  be  well  to  state  here,  that  our  descrip- 
tion of  forms  is  as  they  are  grown  and  appear  in  America ; 
that  the  same  forms  described  in  other  countries  are 
from  the  standpoint  of  their  appearance  there,  and  the 
differences  between  the  two  are  very  great.  In  the  open 
border  the  English-grown  Lilies  far  surpass  ours,  as  we 
usually  grow  them,  while  our  greenhouse  specimens  far 
surpass  theirs.  So  much  for  climatic  influences.  The 
following  are  the  varieties  of  Monadelphum : 

Yars.  colchicum,  Szovitsianum,  Loddigesia- 
num. — These  are  strictly  synonyms,  rather  than  varie- 
ties, neither  having  any  distinctive  character  not  pos- 
sessed by  the  others,  that  the  difference  in  culture  and 
situation  will  produce  any  variation  noticeable  in  form 


218  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

or  color.  In  any  ordinary  collection  any  one  of  the  vari- 
eties will  satisfactorily  represent  the  species. 

Var.  Ledebourii. — A  more  dwarf  growing  variety, 
noticed  by  Dr.  Wallace ;  but  very  little  is  known  of  the 
plant. 

L.  neilgherrense. — This  magnificent  Lily  is  a 
native  of  India,  and  is  called,  by  Mr.  Fish,  an  Indian 
example  of  L.  longiflorum.  He  says,  "  It  is  a  native  of 
the  higher  altitudes  of  the  Neilgherries,  about  eight 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  stem  is  stout 
and  strong,  rising  in  height  from  two  to  three  feet ;  the 
leaves  are  more  numerous,  and  broader  than  in  L.  elegans 
(lancifolium).  The  flowers  average  from  five  to  seven  on 
a  plant,  measuring  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in  length, 
are  deliciously  fragrant,  the  prevailing  color  being  white, 
tinged  with  primrose."  This  form  is  but  very  little 
known  in  this  country. 

L.  nepalense. — A  name  not  nnfrequently  noticed 
in  foreign  catalogues,  but  a  plant  not  known  to  be  grown 
in  Europe.  A  native  of  the  Himalayas. 

L.  odorum. — This  noble  form  is  figured,  and  de- 
scribed by  Mrs.  Bury  in  "Hexandrian  Plants,"  under 
the  name  of  L.  japonicum,  as  follows  :  "L.  japonicum 
is  a  larger,  and  may,  perhaps,  be  designated  a  coarser, 
plant,  than  L.  candidum  or  L.  longiflorum,  to  both  of 
which  it  is  nearly  allied.  The  purple  markings  on  the 
back,  together  with  the  tinge  of  Limeric-tan  color  dif- 
fused through  the  petals,  especially  on  their  first  expan- 
sion, give  a  charming  richness  of  appearance,  which  is 
enhanced  by  the  deep  shade  of  the  firm  hollow  bells,  and 
massive  looking  pistils  and  stamens."  If  Mrs.  Bury's 
illustration  is  accurate,  and  her  book  is  high  authority, 
this  species  is  identical  with  L.  Colcliesteri.  Certainly 
the  difference  between  it  and  L.  Brozvnii  is  but  slight. 

L.  pallidifolium. — A  variety  of  L.  pardalimim. 

L.  pardalinum  (The  Panther  Lily). — The  most 
showy  and  useful  of  the  Lilies  from  California,  and  one 


LILY.  219 

of  the  few  that  adapts  itself  to  the  Atlantic  climate,  and 
thrives  with  all  the  luxuriance  of  a  native  plant.  It 
grows  from  four  to  six  feet  high,  bearing  from  four  to 
ten  drooping  flowers,  of  a  brilliant  orange-red  color,  not 
unlike  some  of  the  brighter  forms  of  Superbum.  We 
note  the  following  varieties  : 

Yar.  Bourgaei. — The  strongest  growing  and  best 
of  its  class.  It  attains  a  height  of  seven  feet,  and  gives 
from  twenty  to  thirty  flowers,  which  appear  about  two 
weeks  later  than  the  species ;  in  form  and  color  there  is 
not  a  marked  difference  between  the  two.  They  are 
alike  easy  of  culture. 

Var.  pallidifolium. — A  small-growing  form,  with 
lighter  colored  flowers. 

Var.  Robinsoni. — Has  the  same  general  habit  as 
Bourgaei ;  foliage  more  full  and  heavy,  flowers  bright 
yermilion,  shading  to  yellow  in  the  center,  and  thickly 
spotted. 

Var.  californicum. — Identical  with  the  type  when 
grown  under  the  same  circumstances. 

L.  par di num. — A  synonym  of  L.  Wilsoni,  of 
group  "C,"  in  Elegans,  Page  210,  to  which  it  belongs. 

L.  Parryi. — This  is  decidedly  the  foremost  of  the 
Calif ornian  Lilies  when  placed  in  congenial  soil  and  cli- 
mate. We  have  grown  this  Lily  largely  and  with  much 
satisfaction,  but  we  are  free  to  admit  that  we  knew  noth- 
ing of  its  beauty  and  capabilities  until  we  saw  it  at 
Ware's  nursery,  Tottenham,  England.  There  it  was  in 
perfection,  growing  fully  five  feet  high,  bearing  several 
Howers  of  immense  size,  fully  as  large  as  Longiflorum, 
and  of  the  most  beautiful  form  and  color,  a  rich  canary- 
yellow,  finely  spotted.  In  fact,  we  did  not  know  the 
Lily  when  shown  to  us,  with  a  request  for  our  opinion. 
Fortunately,  the  label  saved  us  from  showing  our  ignor- 
ance, if  it  did  not  our  surprise.  Then,  more  than  ever, 
we  wanted  to  say  to  every  one  in  America^  "if  you  want 


220  BULBS   AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

Lilies  that  will  honor  the  name,  keep  the  frost  awaji 
from  them." 

L.  Partheneion.  —  A  variety  of  L.  concolor, 
Page  206. 

L.  parvum. — A  variety  of  L.  canadense,  Page  202. 

L.  peregrinum. — A  variety  of  L.  candidum, 
Page  203. 

L.  philadelphicum. — A  species  common  to  the 
Northeastern  States,  growing  from  one  to  one  and  one- 
half  feet  high,  bearing  from  one  to  three  upright  flowers, 
orange-red  spotted  with  black.  This  species  is  quite  indif- 
ferent to  cultivation,  and  does  not  thrive  as  well  as  when 
in  its  native  woods  and  fields.  It  contrasts  well  with 
the  grass  and  native  wood  plants,  but  poorly  in  the  gar- 
den surrounded  with  higher  floral  forms. 

Var.  Wausharaicum. — Rather  a  stronger  form, 
with  brighter  colors,  owing,  probably,  to  more  favorable 
natural  conditions. 

Var.  grandiflorum. — Sent  out  by  some  dealers, 
and  said  to  be  much  larger  and  more  floriferous,  growing 
from  four  to  five  feet  high,  producing  from  six  to  ten 
flowers  in  an  umbel,  of  an  intense  vermilion-red. 

L.  phillippinense.—  A  species  but  little  known, 
described  as  growing  about  two  feet  high,  and  bearing  a 
solitary  flower  remarkable  for  its  sweetness.  ;  trumpet- 
shaped,  white;  stem  and  foliage  very  light.  Not  in 
cultivation. 

L.  poly phy Hum. — A  Himalayan  species,  growing 
from  two  to  four  feet  high,  and  having  large  turban- 
shaped  flowers  of  a  waxy-white  color,  copiously  spotted 
and  lined  with  purple.  Not  in  general  cultivation. 

L.  pomponium. — Another  species  about  which 
there  is  no  little  confusion  in  regard  to  description.  In 
fact,  there  are  two  distinct  forms  bearing  the  same  name. 
William  Robinson,  of  the  Garden,  has  cleared  away 
much  of  the  mist  that  has  enclouded  its  reputation,  as 


LILY.  221 

follows :  "  This  lovely  Lily  must  not  be  confounded 
with  the  L.  pomponium,  usually  sold  as  such ;  this  latter 
being  simply  the  red  variety  of  L.  pyrenaicum.  L.  pom- 
ponium is  elegant  in  growth,  possesses  a  vigorous  con- 
stitution, and  blooms  earlier  than  the  numerous  varieties 
of  L.  chalcedonicum  and  L.  pyrenaicum,  to  which  it  is 
related.  It  grows  about  three  feet  in  height,  is  of  erect 
habit,  and  has  long  linear  leaves.  The  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  a"  lax  raceme,  one  foot  through,  and  a  well 
established  plant  will  bear  as  many  as  twenty  flowers. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  Maritime  Alps."  The  variety,  py- 
renaicum,  is  a  similar,  but  smaller  plant,  with  small 
yellow  flowers.  A  native  of  the  Pyrenees,  as  its  name 
would  imply.  The  variety,  dlbanum,  is  an  Iberian  form, 
like  the  yellow  pyrenaicum,  but  with  a  little  larger  leaves, 
and  pollen  of  a  different  color ;  the  odor  is  sweet,  like 
that  of  honey,  whereas  the  savor  of  the  garden  form  is 
rather  nauseous.  All  the  varieties  are  easily  grown  in 
the  open  border,  increasing  quite  rapidly. 

L.  ponticum. — See  L.  M.  Szovitsianum,  Page  217. 

L.  Prince  of  Orange. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans, 
Page  208. 

L.  pseudo-tigrinum. — This  form  has  had  some 
little  difficulty  in  keeping  a  name,  having  been  sold  as 
L.  Fortunei,  and  later,  in  fact,  now,  as  L.  Maximowiczii. 
It  is,  in  every  respect  excepting  color,  identical  with 
L.  Leichtlinii,  growing  from  four  to  five  feet  high,  bear- 
ing from  six  to  twelve  light  red  flowers,  with  numerous 
small  black  spots.  It  is  variable  in  the  form,  as  well  as 
in  the  color  of  its  flowers ;  some  of  the  stems  are  quite 
downy,  others  smooth.  The  color  of  the  flowers  seems 
to  be  somewhat  governed  by  the  character  of  the  soil  in 
which  it  grows.  It  is  propagated  readily  from  seed,  as 
well  as  by  offsets.  A  peculiar  feature  of  this  Lily  is  the 
length  of  time  it  continues  in  bloom,  a  strong  plant 
remaining  in  flower  for  upwards  of  four  weeks. 


222  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

L.  puberulum. — A  synonym  of  Pallidifolium,  a 
variety  of  L.  pardalinum,  Page  218. 

L.  pulchellum. — A  variety  of  L.  concolor,  Page  206. 

L.  pumilum. — A  synonym  of  L.  callosum,  Page 
201. 

L.  punctatum. — A  variety  of  several  species,  but 
best  known  as  belonging  to  L.  speciosum,  to  which  it  is 
referred. 

L.  puniceum. — A  synonym  of  L.  tenuifolium. 

L.   pyrenaicum. — See  L.  pomponium,  Page  221. 

L.  Robinsonianum. — A  variety  of  L.  pardalinum, 
Page  218. 

L.  Roezlii. — A  synonym  of  Angustifolium,  a  vari- 
ety of  pardalinum,  Page  218. 

L.  sinicum. — See  under  Concolor,  Page  206. 

L.  speciosum. — As  a  whole,  this  species  of  Lilies 
far  surpasses  any  other  species  of  herbaceous  plants,  for 
the  garden,  or  for  the  greenhouse.  Among  Lilies  there 
are  none  to  compare,  excepting  L.  candidum,  which  has 
no  peer.  By  common  consent,  Speciosum  was  regarded 
the  species ;  all  other  forms  were  varieties.  This  mat- 
ters not,  so  long  as  it  is  so  understood,  that  we  do  not 
get  the  varieties  mixed.  So  in  our  descriptions  we  shall 
consider  Speciosum  a  type,  notwithstanding  the  fact 
that,  when  introduced  by  Dr.  Siebold,  it  referred  to 
what  is  now  considered  L.  s.  rubrum. 

The  extreme  beauty  of  the  Speciosum  species  has 
tempted  the  growers  to  multiply  varieties  to  an  almost 
unlimited  extent ;  far  beyond  the  limit  of  reason,  to  say 
the  least,  as  names  have  been  given  plants  for  differences 
that  exist  only  in  the  imagination.  One  dealer  lists 
thirty-four  varieties,  four  times  as  many  as  the  most 
enthusiastic  admirer  could  find,  uninfluenced  by  the 
hope  of  gain.  We  shall  note  such  varieties  as  have  some 
individual  features  that  commend  them  to  the  reader, 
in  whose  interest  this  book  is  written. 


SPECtOSUM  LILY. 


223 


LILIUM   SPECIOSUM   RUBRUM. 


224  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

Var.  rubrum. — This  was  the  first  introduction, 
and  was  figured  in  Paxton's  Magazine  of  Botany  for 
January,  1838,  and  described,  in  part,  as  follows  :  "A 
most  magnificent  species  of  Lily;  t not  only  handsome' 
(as  Dr.  Lindley  observed,  in  the  Botanical  Register, 
Page  2,000)  beyond  all  we  before  knew  in  gardens 
(among  Lilies),  on  account  of  the  clear,  deep  rose-color 
of  its  flowers,  which  seem  all  rugged  with  rubies  and 
garnets,  and  sparkling  with  crystal  points,  but  it  has 
the  sweet  fragrance  of  the  Petunia."  Much  confusion 
exists  in  regard  to  the  variety  names,  some  dealers  call- 
ing it  Rubrum,  others  Roseum,  many  sending  it  out 
under  both  names.  Having  grown  many  thousands  of 
the  supposed  different  varieties,  we  have  never  been 
able  to  note  sufficient  difference  in  color  to  warrant  the 
two  names.  It  is  true,  that  in  a  bed  of  either,  one  will 
find  some  darker,  some  lighter,  the  cause  of  which  seems 
to  us  to  be,  that  it  is  a  seedling  and  intermediate  between 
Purpuratum  and  Punctatum.  As  the  former  is  truly 
represented  by  the  colored  illustration  in  Paxton's  Mag- 
azine of  Botany,  and  the  one  we  designate  as  true 
Rubrum,  while  the  latter  is  also  figured  in  the  same  vol- 
ume, and  is  as  perfect  an  illustration  of  the  flower  as  it  is 
possible  for  the  lithographic  art  to  produce,  and  it  is  there 
called  Roseum  (synonym  Punctatum).  Therefore  the 
variety  sold  as  Purpuratum  might,  with  propriety,  be 
called  Rubrum.  Punctatum  was,  from  its  introduction, 
called  Roseum.  Seedlings  from  these  varieties  would 
very  naturally  produce,  not  only  the  two  varieties  under 
consideration,  but  many  others  that  have  been  honored 
with  varietal  names.  See  Engraving,  Page  223. 

Yar.  roseum  (syn.  punctatum). — Paxton  describes 
this  as  follows  :  "In  the  exquisite  loveliness  of  its  flow- 
ers, their  superior  size,  and  the  stronger  and  more  robust 
habits  of  the  plant,  this  charming  variety  almost  outvies 
the  splendid  species  (L.  speciosum).  The  dazzling  bril- 


SPECIOSUM  LILY.  225 

liancy  of  hue  for  which  the  species  just  mentioned  is  so 
deservedly  admired,  alone  maintains  its  ascendency,  for 
in  every  other  respect  our  present  subject  is  decidedly 
unequalled."  This  certainly  described  Punctatum  as  we 
have  it,  and  as  it  was  first  called  Roseum,  we  can  see  no 
reason  for  its  later  appellation. 

Var.  album. — This  is  a  pure  white  form;  except- 
ing in  color,  it  is  well  described  in  var.  rubrum. 

Var.  prsecox. — This  differs  from  the  above,  in  hav- 
ing its  pure  white  petals  slightly  tinged  with  pink,  in 
being  a  stronger  grower,  producing,  when  well  estab- 
lished, twelve  to  fifteen  flowers  on  a  single  stem ;  the 
petals  are  regular  and  much  reflexed,  often  clasping  the 
stem ;  in  the  center  of  the  flower  the  petals  are  studded 
with  delicate  little  projections,  like  crystal  points.  Of 
it  there  seem  to  be  several  so-called  varieties.  One  has 
yellow  anthers  instead  of  brown ;  in  other  respects  they 
are  identical.  Seedlings  from  this  or  the  foregoing 
white  form  are  as  numerous  as  are  those  of  the  spotted 
varieties,  which  makes  the  nomenclature  of  this  group 
decidedly  uncertain. 

Var.  vestale. — A  synonym  of  var.  album. 

Var.  punctatum. — A  synonym  of  var.  roseum. 

Var.  macranthum. — A  synonym  of  var.  rubrum. 

Var.  melpomene. — A  seedling  variety  raised  by  the 
late  C.  M.  Hovey,  of  Boston.  It  is  somewhat  darker 
than  true  Rubrum,  but  by  no  means  an  improvement  on 
the  type.  Mr.  Hovey  was  quite  successful  in  growing 
the  L.  speciosum  from  seed,  and  at  one  time  had,  of  his 
own  production,  varieties  named  for  each  of  the  Muses; 
but  with  the  exception  of  Melpomene,  none  are  in 
existence. 

Vars.  monstrosum,  of  Album,  Rubrum  and  Punc- 
tatum, are  simply  fasciated  forms,  unworthy  a  place  in 
the  garden,  excepting  for  the  curiosity  there  is  in  mon- 
strosities. There  is  an  interesting  feature  in  these  fas- 
15 


226  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

• 

ciated  forms  worthy  of  notice.  We  find,  in  good  rich 
soil,  and  with  good  cultivation,  these  forms  invariably 
revert  back  to  the  type  after  one  or  two  years. 

Var.  corymbiflorum. — A  synonym  for  the  varie- 
ties of  Monstrosum.  These  varieties  include  all  that 
have  any  distinctive  traits  ;  other  varieties  listed  in  cata- 
logues present  only  such  differences  as  may  be  seen 
with  any  of  the  varieties,  when  grown  under  different 
conditions. 

L.  spectabile. — A  synonym  of  L.  Cateslcei, 
Page  204. 

L.  splendens. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans,  Page  209. 

L.  stenophyllum.  —  A.  variety  of  L.  callosum, 
Page  201. 

L».  superbum. — Our  common  Swamp  Lily;  were 
it  not  common  it  would  receive  the  attention  it  so 
richly  deserves.  In  its  native  habitat,  we  have  known  a 
specimen  ten  feet  high  with  sixty-three  flowers.  As  a 
rule,  it  grows  from  four  to  six  feet  high,  with  from  four 
to  twelve  flowers.  It  is  a  splendid  plant  to  grow  among 
shrubbery.  In  such  situations  the  ground  should  be 
mulched  heavily  to  keep  it  moist,  and  clumps  from  six 
to  eight  feet  high,  bearing  an  immense  number  of  orange- 
red  flowers  tipped  with  bright  crimson,  will  be  the  re- 
sult. These  noble  plants,  lifting  themselves  far  above 
the  Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas,  have  a  majestic  appear- 
ance. The  variety  r.arolinianum  is  described  as  an  inter- 
mediate form  between  Superbum  and  Canadense ;  it  is 
but  little  known.  We  do  not  think  that  any  of  our 
native  Lilies,  as  cultivated,  are  very  well  known  in  other 
countries,  judging  from  the  following,  which  we  take 
from  Dr.  Wallace's  notes  on  Lilies.  In  speaking  of  the 
Superbum,  he  says  :  "A  very  valuable,  late,  graceful 
Lily,  in  growth  so  like  Canadense,  that  it  is  difficult  to 
distinguish  them,  except  by  means  of  the  immature 
flower  buds,  which  are  rounded  in  Superbum,  but  trian- 


LILY.  227 

gular  in  Canadense.  Properly  an  eastern  (indigenous 
American)  form,  but  stretching  westward,  and  inter- 
mingling with  the  western  varieties,  so  that  it  becomes 
difficult  to  separate  the  intermediate  forms."  In  the 
cultivated  forms  there  is  as  wide  a  difference  between 
t'.'.ese  two  species  as  there  is  between  either  of  them  and 
tiie  Martagons.  The  Superbum  grows  twice  as  high, 
has  double  the  number  of  flowers,  which  have  their 
petals  so  mucn  reflexed  that  they  clasp  the  stems,  while 
those  of  the  Canadense  are  always  bell-shaped,  and  the 
buds  of  the  former  are  quite  as  angular  as  are  those  of 
the  latter. 

L.  Szovitszianum. — A  synonym  of  L.  monadel- 
phum,  Page  2 1 7. 

L.  Takesima. — A  variety  of  L.  longiflorum, 
Page  215. 

L.  tenuifolium. — The  earliest  of  all  our  garden 
Lilies,  and  one  of  the  most  desirable,  because  of  its  bril- 
liant scarlet  flowers,  produced  in  a  raceme  of  from  one 
to  twenty,  on  very  slender  stems,  which  are  beautifully 
clothed  with  grass-like  foliage.  A  native  of  Siberia, 
where  it  is  largely  grown  as  an  article  of  food.  It  is 
quite  tender,  and  needs  a  dry  soil  and  protection  against 
frost ;  see  Page  175.  It  is  rapidly  increased  from  seed. 

L.  testaceum. — A  synonym  of  L.  excelsum, 
Page  211. 

L.  Thompsonianum. — This  is  now  classed  with 
the  Fritillarias,  Page  92. 

L.  Thunbergianum. — A  synonym  of  L.  elegans, 
Page  207. 

L.  tigrinum  (Tiger  Lily). — This  is  one  of  our 
earliest  contributions  from  China,  having  been  intro- 
duced with  Longiflorum  in  1804.  It  is,  when  well 
grown,  one  of  the  most  noble  and  showy  of  all  the  spe- 
cies, and  well  worthy  a  place  in  every  collection.  The 
type  grows  about  four  feet  high,  and,  in  good  soil,  will 


228  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

produce  from  ten  to  fifteen  bright  scarlet  flowers,  with 
numerous  small  black  spots.  Notwithstanding  its  stately 
form  and  gorgeous  display,  it  is  classed  with  weedy  plants, 
because  of  its  rapid  increase  and  ease  of  cultivation ; 
whereas,  in  gardens  of  any  considerable  extent,  it  should 
have  a  prominent  place  and  be  confined  to  it. 

Var.  flore  pleno  (Double  Flowering  Tigrinum). — 
A  magnificent  plant,  reaching  a  height  of  six  feet,  with 
a  diameter  of  more  than  three  feet,  bearing,  in  a  season, 
more  than  sixty  flowers;  continuing  in  bloom  more 
than  six  weeks. 

Var.  splendens. — In  a  rich  soil  and  partially  shaded 
situation,  will  grow  to  the  height  of  six  feet,  producing 
an  immense  number  of  flowers  in  a  pyramidal  cluster. 

Var.  Maximowiczii. — Sometimes  sold  under  the 
name  of  L.  Fortunei,  and  is  often  called  a  variety  of  L. 
Leiclitlinii,  Page  214;  flowers  a  light  orange-red,  with 
small  black  dots.  This  differs  from  the  species  in  not 
having  axillary  bulblets.  It  is  a  very  showy  plant,  flow- 
ering in  August,  and  is  increased  rapidly  from  seed. 
All  the  varieties  of  Tigrinum,  excepting  this,  are  rapidly 
increased  from  the  axillary  bulbs,  which  should  be 
planted  as  soon  as  they  drop;  they  make  bulbs  that 
flower  the  second  year. 

L.  umbellatum. — A  synonym  of  L.  'bulbiferum, 
Page  201. 

L.    Van    Houttei. — A    variety    of    L.    elegans. 

L.  venustum. — A  variety  of  L.  elegans,  Page  207. 

L;  Wallacei. — A  very  showy  lily,  but  whether  a 
distinct  species  or  a  garden  hybrid  is  a  question  not  yet 
decided.  It  is  of  easy  culture,  increasing  rapidly,  and 
flowering  most  profusely.  In  form  it  is  intermediate 
between  Maximowiczii  and  Concolor.  The  flowers  are 
vermilion-orange,  spotted  at  the  base  and  center  with 
numerous  slightly  raised  small  maroon  spots ;  it  is  one 
of  the  latest  flowering  sorts. 


LILY. 

L.  Wallichianum. — A  native  of  the  Himalayas, 
in  form  and  color  closely  resembling  Longiflorum  ;  the 
flowers  are  not  as  regular  in  form,  nor  of  as  much  sub- 
stance ;  neither  is  it  nearly  as  hardy,  and  can  only  be 
successfully  grown  in  the  greenhouse. 

L.  Wausharicum. — A  variety  of  Philadelphicum, 
Page  220. 

L.  Washingtonianum. — One  of  the  native  Amer- 
ican specie*  growing  freely  in  the  Californian  woods ; 
the  flowers  are  white  tinged  with  purple,  produced  in 
clusters  on  stems  from  two  to  five  feet  high.  This  spe- 
cies is  a  very  difficult  one  to  manage  in  the  Atlantic 
states ;  it  does  not  at  all  conform  to  the  change  of  sea- 
sous,  and  strives  to  grow  and  flower  during  the  same 
months  as  it  does  in  its  native  home.  With  thorough 
protection  we  have  had  it  do  fairly  well,  but  in  the  At- 
lantic States  it  will  succeed  well  only  when  grown  under 
glass,  for  which  purposes  there  are  many  more  desirable 
kinds.  The  variety  purpureum  is  a  lower  growing 
form,  seldom  reaching  two  feet  in  height,  with  violet  or 
nearly  white  flowers,  borne  in  erect  umbels.  There  is 
the  same  difficulty  in  growing  the  variety  as  with  the 
species. 

Lilies  for  the  Garden. — We  are  often  asked  what 
varieties  will  give  the  best  satisfaction  planted  in  the 
open  border.  We  reply  by  giving  the  following  selec- 
tion, and  should  take  them  in  the  order  named  :  1  Can- 
didum,  2  Speciosum  Rubrum,  3  Speciosum  Praecox,  4 
Excelsum,  5  Brownii,  6  Hansonii,  7  Tenuifolium,  8  Ele- 
gans — var.  Alice  Wilson,  9  Leichtlinii,  10  Speciosum 
Roseum  (Punctatum),  11  Longiflorum  Eximium,  12  Au- 
ratum,  13  Tigrinum  Flore  Pleno,  14  Martagon  Dalmati- 
cum,  15  Pseudo-Tigrinum,  .16  Monadelphum,  17  Su- 
perbum,  18  Tigrinum  Splendens,  19  Elegans  Bicolor, 
20  Coridion,  21  Pardalinum,  22  Batemanniae,  23  Cana- 
dense,  24  Concolor  Sinicum,  25  Wallacei.  Few  persons 


230  BULBS   AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS, 

will  care  to  have  so  large  a  number  of  sorts,  and  those 
who  wish  a  limited  number  will  be  pleased  by  commenc- 
ing with  Number  1,  and  continuing  down  the  list  until 
their  desires  are  satisfied.  The  first  three,  six  or  twelve 
will  give  sufficient  variety  and  contrast  for  small,  or 
for  moderately  large  gardens. 

LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY. 

See  Convallaria,  Page  61. 

LOCHIERA. 

A  section  of  the  genus  Achimenes,  Page  1. 
LYCORIS. 

A  small  genus  of  greenhouse  bulbs  allied  to  Nerine 
and  Griffinia,  natives  of  Eastern  Asia.  The  name  of 
Lycoris  is  that  of  a  Roman  actress,  celebrated  for  her 
extravagance  and  her  beauty.  The  flowers  of  some  of 
the  species  are  very  beautiful,  and  remarkable  for  their 
rich  golden  color.  They  bloom  in  autumn,  the  flowers 
preceding  the  foliage,  as  do  those  of  Amaryllis  Bella- 
donna, Page  12.  After  flowering,  the  plants  should 
have  every  encouragement  for  growth  of  foliage,  as  it  is 
upon  this  that  the  flowering  of  another  season  depends. 
After  the  leaves  have  perfected  their  growth,  dry  the 
bulbs  off,  and  during  their  period  of  rest  they  must 
remain  in  the  pots  dry  and  warm. 

L.  aurea  (Golden  Lily).— The  most  beautiful  of 
the  species,  having  bright  yellow  flowers,  in  August. 

L.  radiata. — Has  dingy  crimson  flowers,  in  July. 

L.  staminea. — Has  striped  flowers,  in  June. 

MARIPOSA  LILY. 

See  Calochortus,  Page  49. 

MASSOOTA. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  bulbs  allied  to  Eriospermum. 
They  are  of  little  value. 


MELANTHIUM — MERENDERA — MILLA.  231 

MEADOW  SAFFRON. 

See  Colchicum,  Page  59. 

MELAKTHIUM. 

A  small  genus  of  early  spring  flowering  bulbs,  some- 
what resembling  the  Ixias,  Page  166,  and  requiring  the 
same  general  treatment,  being  natives  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope. 

M.  junceum  (The  Rush-leaved  Melanthium). — 
This  is  a  very  beautiful  little  Cape  plant,  with  flowers 
like  a  small  Ixia.  The  flowers  are  stained  within  with 
dark  crimson  spots,  nearly  black,  and  hence  the  name  of 
the  genus,  which  signifies  black  flowers.  The  propaga- 
tion is  by  offsets. 

M.  uniflorum. — This  has  but  one  flower,  as  its 
name  implies.  Neither  of  the  species  are  worth 
cultivating. 

MERENDERA. 

The  best  known  species,  M.  caucasica,  is  a  pretty 
little  plant,  differing  from  the  Colchicums,  Page  59,  by 
the  leaves  and  flowers  appearing  at  the  same  time,  and 
should  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

MILLA. 

This  is  a  much  abused  bulb.  Having  been  included 
in  the  genus  Triteleia,  where  it  does  not  belong,  and  the 
specific  name,  biflora  (two-flowered),  entirely  misrepre- 
senting its  character.  It  has,  moreover,  been  repre- 
sented as  difficult  to  manage,  when,  in  fact,  it  can  be 
grown  as  easily,  and  more  satisfactorily,  than  almost 
any  of  our  summer-flowering  bulbs.  Our  experience 
with  the  Milla  has  been  as  follows  :  When  it  was  first 
sent  here  from  Mexico  we  procured  a  large  quantity  of 
the  bulbs,  which  were  about  the  size  of  small  crocus 
corms,  or  even  smaller ;  these  grew  rapidly,  and  we  soon 
saw  that  the  name  biflora  did  not  belong  to  a  plant  pro- 


232 


BULBS   AND    TUBEROUS-HOOTED   PLANTS. 


ducing  four  flowers  on  a  single  scape,  nor  to  a  bulb  that 
produced  two  or  more  scapes,  as  most  of  these  bulbs  did. 
Soon  after  the  first  hard  frost  the  bulbs  were  taken  up 
and  put  about  two  inches  deep  in  ordinary  flats,  which 
were  placed  in  racks  in  the  Gladiolus  room.  There  they 
remained  until  the  following  spring.  To  our  surprise, 


MILLA. 

the  crocus-sized  bulbs  we  had  planted  were,  when  taken 
up,  as  large  as  good-sized  Gladiolus  corms,  or  about  two 
inches  in  diameter.  These  were  planted  at  the  same 
time  as  the  Gladiolus,  and  in  the  same  manner,  early  in 
May.  They  commenced  to  bloom  early  in  July,  and 


MILLA — MOXTBRETIA.  233 

notwithstanding  the  excessive  drouth  of  that  season,  the 
plants  were  in  constant  bloom  until  killed  by  frost  late 
in  October.  The  larger  bulbs  threw  up  ten  flower  stalks 
each,  and  in  many  instances  there  were  eight  flowers  on 
a  single  scape  or  stalk,  and  not  infrequently  three  were 
open  at  a  time.  We  do  not  know  a  more  satisfactory 
bulb  than  this,  as  it  is  constantly  in  flower  for  more 
than  three  months  in  the  summer,  with  as  little  trouble 
as  the  Gladiolus,  and  delights  in  dry,  sunny  weather, 
which,  in  our  climate,  it  can  usually  have  in  abundance. 
It  increases  rapidly  by  offsets,  or  from  seed,  the  bulbs 
from  which  will  flower  the  second  year. 

M.  biflora. — The  only  species;  flowers  pure  white, 
star-shaped,  with  a  greenish-white  tube  three  to  five 
inches  in  length.  For  the  best  effect  in  the  garden,  the 
bulbs  should  be  planted  alternately  with  the  Besiera 
elegans  (Page  42),  about  four  inches  apart  each  way ; 
the  effect  produced  by  the  contrast  of  color,  scarlet  and 
white,  is  most  charming.  The  two  plants  possess  the 
same  graceful  habit  of  growth,  and  are  uniform  in 
height.  See  engraving  of  flowers  on  Page  232. 

MISSOURI  HYACINTH. 

A  synonym  of  Camassia  Fraseri,  Page  52. 
MONTBRETIA. 
Tritoniq. 

A  small  genus  of  Iridaceous  plants  from  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  most  of  which  are  half-hardy,  and  require 
the  same  treatment  as  other  summer  flowering  bulbs. 
The  genus  is  closely  allied  to  the  Ixia  (Page  166),  and  is 
now  generally  included  with  the  Tritonia. 

M.  Pottsii  (Properly  Tritonia  Pottsii). — The  beet 
of  the  species,  somewhat  resembling  the  Gladiolus,  and 
perfectly  hardy.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  spikes  from 
six  to  nine  inches  long ;  thev  are  bright  yellow,  streaked 
y*  the  outside  with  brick-red. 


234  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 


POTTS'  MONTBRETIA  OR 


— MUSCARI.  235 

The  name  Montbretia  would  hardly  be  retained  but 
for  the  hybrid  form,  Montbretia  crocosmiftora,  a  cross 
between  M,  Pottsii  and  Crocosmia  aurea,  a  very  showy 
and  free-flowering  plant  that  succeeds  admirably  in  the 
garden,  producing  its  long,  many-flowered  panicles  of 
orange-scarlet  flowers  from  July  until  killed  by  frost. 
While  this  is  a  desirable  plant  for  the  open  garden,  its 
usefulness  stops  there.  The  flowers  quickly  fade  if  used 
in  a  vase,  acid  the  buds  do  not  open.  But  as  a  garden 
ornament  it  is  exceedingly  valuable.  While  this  is 
classed  with  the  hardy  bulbs,  it  does  not  belong  there ; 
it  should  be  taken  up  and  kept  in  dry  sand,  free  from 
frost,  during  winter.  It  increases  rapidly  from  offsets. 

MOR/EA. 

This  genus  was  formerly  included  with  the  Iris,  the 
flowers  of  which  bear  a  close  resemblance ;  they  are  very 
beautiful,  but  of  short  duration  and  little  substance. 
All  the  species  are  tender,  but  succeed  well  when  prrown 
in  pots,  in  a  light  sandy  loam.  They  thrive  with  ordi- 
nary greenhouse  culture,  but  the  plants  require  frequent 
syringing  to  keep  them  free  from  red  spider.  They 
flower  from  April  to  July,  according  to  species,  after 
which,  when  the  leaves  wither  and  dry  down,  they 
should  remain  dry  and  warm  until  the  following  Febru- 
ary, when  they  should  be  re-potted  and  started  into 
growth  again.  Yiesseuxia  and  the  Peacock  Iris,  If. 
pavonia  (iridoides),  Page  161,  are  now  included  in  this 
genus.  M.  Sisyrinchium  is  the  only  species  that  is  worth 
the  room  required  in  the  greenhouse  to  grow  them.  This 
is  a  native  of  Spain  ;  the  flower  is  very  handsome,  deep 
blue,  white  and  yellow. 

MUSOARL 

This  is  a  large  genus  of  perfectly  hardy  bulbs,  with 
a  great  variety  of  popular  names,  such  as  Musk,  Grape, 


236  BULBS   AND    TUBEKOUS-KOOTED   PLANTS. 

and  Feathered  Hyacinth.  They  grow  freely  anywhere. 
Some  of  the  species  have  escaped  from  the  gardens  and 
have  become  naturalized,  and  grow  with  all  the  vigor  of 
native  plants.  All  they  require  is  to  be  once  planted ; 
they  will  then  take  care  of  themselves,  and  increase  rap- 
idly. The  more  valuable  of  the  species  are  : 

M.  botryoides  (Grape  Hyacinth).  This  is  the 
most  commonly  grown  and  finest  of  the  species.  The 
flower-spikes  are  from  two  to  three  inches  in  length, 
resembling  a  bunch  of  grapes,  colors  pure  white  and 
dark  blue ;  they  have  a  peculiar  fragrance,  which  has 
given  the  species  the  popular  name  of  "Baby's  Breath." 

M.  comosum  (Tufted  Hyacinth). — A  very  showy 
species. 

M.  c.  monstrosum  (The  Feathered  Hyacinth). — 
It  is  also  known  by  the  trade  as  Muscari  plumosus 
monstrosum. 

M.  moschatum. — This,  the  common  Musk  Hya- 
cinth, receives  its  name  by  the  strong  smell  of  musk 
which  the  flowers  possess.  The  flowers  are  purple  when 
they  first  expand,  but  gradually  become  yellowish.  It 
is  a  native  of  Turkey. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  species  and  varieties, 
but  those  noticed  well  represent  the  genus.  They  are 
easily  grown  and  rapidly  increase  by  offsets. 

NAEOISSUS. 
Daffodil. 

The  florists  who  have  made  the  Narcissus  a  hobby, 
have  driven  farther  and  faster  for  varieties  than  any 
other  of  the  many  specialists  in  the  floral  race.  Their 
classifications  and  distinctions  are  simply  bewildering, 
and  the  number  of  varieties,  each  claiming  some  marked 
difference  or  peculiarity  in  form  or  shade  of  color,  is 
astounding.  We  shall  not  attempt  to  follow  them,  we 
dare  not  even  approach  them,  as  there  has  been  more 


NARCISSUS. 


23? 


GROUP   OF    NARCISSUS. 


238  BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

than  enough  written  on  the  Narcissus  to  fill  more  pages 
than  are  contained  in  this  entire  work. 

There  are  three  distinct  classes  of  Narcissus,  the 
old  and  well  known  Daffodils,  both  single  and  double 
forms;  the  white-flowered  or  Poet's  Narcissus,  and  the 
Tazetta,  or  Polyanthus  Narcissus.  The  first  two  classes 
are  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil  or 
situation.  In  the  open  border  they  should  be  planted  in 
quantity,  especially  in  those  spots  where  they  appear 
naturally  at  home,  such  as  under  the  shade  of  trees,  and 
in  the  shrubbery  borders,  where  many  other  plants 
refuse  to  bloom.  The  newly  awakened  interest  in  the 
many  forms  of  single  and  double  Daffodils  is  almost  as 
lively  as  when  the  poets  sang  so  loud  their  praises. 
This  interest  is  well  deserved,  as  they  certainly  are  most 
effective  and  desirable  border  flowers.  All  the  species 
and  varieties  of  Narcissus  should  be  grown  in  clumps 
and  patches  in  every  suitable  vacant  spot,  and  there  is 
not  a  spot  where  grass  will  grow  in  which  the  Narcissus 
will  not  thrive. 

Under  fences  and  beside  hedges,  or  in  any  out-of- 
the  way  place,  large  quantities  of  the  more  free-growing 
sorts,  especially  N.  poeticus,  should  be  planted  for  a 
supply  of  early  cut  flowers,  and  a  portion  should  be  in 
sunny,  and  a  portion  in  shaded  places,  to  prolong  the 
season  of  flowering.  Their  graceful  appearance  renders 
tli em  peculiarly  valuable  for  this  purpose,  and,  if  cut 
when  partially  opened,  they  will  develop  in  water,  and 
last  for  many  days.  In  planting,  be  guided  by  the  size 
of  the  bulb,  allowing  four  to  five  inches  between  small 
sorts,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches  between  the  large 
varieties.  At  this  distance  apart  the  bulbs  will  soon 
completely  fill  the  spaces  forming  a  compact  mass,  and 
it  is  then  their  flowers  are  produced  the  most  freely.  In 
fact,  they  do  not  make  an  effective  mass  of  bloom  until 
the  bulbs  are  crowded.  This  is  one  of  the  good  features 


NARCISSUS. 

in  growing  the  Narcissus,  that  when  a  planting  is  once 
made,  no  further  attention  is  necessary,  as  they  will  pro- 
tect themselves  against  all  encroachment.  Quack  grass 
even  has  to  give  way  to  them,  and  in  spite  of  it  there 
will  be  an  annual  improvement  in  the  quantity  and 
quality  of  bloom. 

The  third  class,  having  N.  Tazetta  as  the  type,  and 
including  the  species  and  varieties  usually  employed  for 
forcing  by  the  florists,  cannot  be  treated  so  carelessly ; 
it  demands  greater  attention,  and  is  not,  by  any 
means,  hardy.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted,  at  least, 
five  inches  deep,  and  be  protected  against  frost.  In  a 
changeable  climate,  where  there  is  alternate  freezing  and 
thawing,  these  bulbs  will  not  succeed  unless  ample  pro- 
tection is  afforded.  They  are  desirable  for  pot  culture, 
for  the  window  garden,  and  should  be  potted  as  early  as 
possible  after  they  arrive  from  Europe.  The  Double 
Koman  and  Paper  White  naturally  come  into  bloom  in 
advance  of  the  other  sorts,  and  should  be  selected  for 
early  display.  Pot  them  rather  firmly  in  a  rich,  porous 
soil,  but  not  so  firmly  as  to  render  it  impossible  for  the 
roots  to  penetrate,  or  they  will  raise  the  bulbs  out  of  the 
soil.  Place  the  bulbs  in  a  cool  spot,  and  cover  them 
with  coal  ashes  or  any  other  material,  to  keep  the  bulbs 
in  their  places,  and  to  prevent  the  foliage  from  starting 
prematurely.  When  top  growth  commences,  which  will 
be  by  the  first  of  December,  the  pots  can  be  given  their 
position  in  the  window-garden  or  conservatory.  A  suc- 
cession can  be  kept  up  until  flowers  appear  in  the  open 
border,  by  bringing  the  pots  in  at  intervals.  If  a  little 
bottom  heat  is  given  the  plants  as  soon  as  the  buds  ap- 
pear, it  will  hasten  their  flowering,  but  those  who  have 
not  the  necessary  appliances  will  not  be  the  losers,  as 
the  flowers  will  be  better  without  artificial  aid. 

The  Tazetta  class  of  Narcissus  can  also  be  grown  in 
glasses  in  water,  in  the  same  manner  recommended  for 


240  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

Hyacinths  (Page  149),  and  there  are  no  bulbs  that  sur- 
pass Narcissus  with  this  method  of  culture.  The  Chi- 
nese Sacred  Lily,  or  Narcissus,  which  is  one  of  the  N. 
Tazetta  group,  is  readily  and  perfectly  grown  in  this  man- 
ner ;  but  a  more  pleasing  way  is  to  place  the  bulbs  in  an 
earthen  dish,  on  about  half  an  inch  of  gravel,  and  cover 
them  half  way  up  with  white  gravel.  Place  them  in  full 
sunlight  and  they  will  bloom  perfectly. 

Before  placing  the  bulbs  in  the  gravel,  the  Chinese 
cut  away  the  hard  skin  on  the  top  of  the  bulb,  which 
greatly  facilitates  growth  ;  in  cutting,  do  not  injure  the 
leaf  growth,  and  only  cut  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
depth.  The  Chinese  also  cut  the  bulb  longitudinally 
in  four  places,  as  though  they  were  to  quarter  the  bulb, 
but  only  cut  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch. 
How  this  benefits  the  bulb  we  cannot  say,  but  it  is  their 
method,  and  we  have  followed  it  with  great  success.  *• 

Forcing  the  Narcissus  for  Cut  Flowers. — 
These  bulbs  are  now  forced  in  immense  quantities  by 
the  florists,  and  the  method  employed  is  to  plant  the 
bulbs  in  shallow  boxes,  ordinary  flats,  filled  with  com- 
mon potting  soil;  the  bulbs  are  placed  three  to  four 
inches  apart,  and  covered  level  with  their  upper  surfaces. 
They  are  then  placed  in  a  cool,  dark  shed,  until  they 
have  made  good  root-growth,  which  will  be  by  the  first 
of  November,  if  they  have  been  put  away  early  in  Sep- 
tember, as  they  should  be.  The  boxes  are  then  brought 
into  the  greenhouse  as  required,  and  given  a  moderate 
heat  and  all  the  light  possible.  Flowers  will  be  ready 
for  cutting  in  six  weeks  after  the  bulbs  have  been  brought 
forward.  A  succession  can  be  kept  up,  according  to  the 
demands  of  the  trade. 

Many  of  the  single  Daffodils  are  available  for  forc- 
ing. The  best  are  Trumpet  Major,  yellow;  Trumpet 
Major,  yellow  and  white ;  Obvallaris  (Tenby  Daffodil), 
rich  yellow;  and  Poeticus  Ornatus,  white  with  crimson 


NARCISSUS. 


TYPE  OF    HOOP-PETTICOAT   NARCISSUS. 


16 


242  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

eye.  Of  the  double  varieties,  Incomparable,  yellow  and 
orange ;  Pseudo-N.  Plentis,  or  Lent  Lily,  yellow  and 
white ;  and  Von  Sion,  all  yellow ;  Alba-Plena  Odorata,  a 
fine  double  white,  is  also  used.  The  hybrid  varieties  are 
very  fine,  but  too  expensive  for  general  cultivation. 

As  the  varieties  are  so  numerous  we  cannot  attempt 
their  description,  but  will  briefly  refer  to  the  species. 

N.  Bulbocodium  (Common  Hoop-Petticoat  Nar- 
cissus).— This  has  so  long  occupied  a  place  in  the  garden 
that  a  description  is  quite  unnecessary.  It  is  a  native  of 
the  Pyrenees,  and  is  perfectly  hardy.  See  Page  241. 

N.  gracilis  (Yellow  Rush-Leaved  Narcissus). — This 
differs  from  other  of  the  rush-leaved  sorts,  in  having 
flowers  similar  in  shape  to  those  of  N.  poeticus,.  but  of 
a  soft  sulphur-yellow  color,  and  in  having  but  two  or 
three  on  a  stalk.  This  has  so  long  been  an  inhabitant 
of  the  garden  that  its  origin  is  unknown.  There  are 
several  varieties,  one  of  which  is  popularly  known  as  the 
Silver  Jonquil. 

N.  incomparabilis  (Peerless  Daffodil)  (Butter 
and  Eggs). — There  are  a  large  number  of  varieties  and 
sub-varieties  of  this  species,  all  hardy,  showy,  and  well 
adapted  for  woods  or  shaded  places.  It  can  be  natural- 
ized anywhere,  making  very  effective  clumps  in  early 
spring.  See  Page  238. 

N.  Jonquilla  (Jonquil). — This  is  a  native  of  Spain, 
and  an  old  garden  favorite,  because  of  its  fragrance  and 
hardiness,  together  with  its  elegant  form  and  profusion 
of  golden  yellow  flowers.  There  is  a  double  form  with 
the  same  general  habit,  which  is  not  common  in  our  gar- 
dens, and  is  liable  to  die  out  unless  planted  in  dry  soils, 
because  water,  in  winter,  is  destructive  to  it. 

N.  juncifolius  (Rush-Leaved  Daffodil). — One  of 
the  smallest  and  sweetest  of  the  species.  It  is  very 
dwarf,  and  admirably  adapted  for  rock- work.  The  flow- 
ers are  produced  quite  early  in  spring;  therefore  they 


NARCISSUS.  243 

should  have  a  warm  and  protected  situation,  as,  in  this 
climate,  we  frequently  have  freezing  weather  after  they 
come  into  bloom.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Pyrenees. 

N.  odorus  (Campernelle)  (Fragrant). — Why  Lin- 
naeus applied  this  distinctive  name  to  this  species  is  not 
clear,  as  it  is  not  more  fragrant  than  many  other  of  the 
species.  Of  this  there  are  several  varieties,  all  worth 
growing,  as  they  will  thrive  in  any  warm  situation. 

N.  poeticus  (Poets'  Narcissus). — This  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful,  as  well  as  the  most  common,  of  the 
species.  A  border  of  this  Narcissus,  after  the  bulbs  get 
well  established,  has  no  equal  among  early  flowers. 
There  are  several  varieties,  differing  but  little  excepting 
in  time  of  flowering.  Flowers  pure  white  with  crimson 
border  on  the  cup.  See  Page  238. 

N.  Pseudo-Narcissus  (The  Common  Daffodil,  or 
Lent  Lily). — This  is  so  common  in  Europe  that  it  has 
become  naturalized  in  many  places.  It  will  grow  any- 
where, in  sun  or  shade,  and  increases  rapidly  where  once 
planted. 

Var.  moschatus  (White  Spanish  Daffodil). — A  very 
dwarf  plant,  with  flowers  similar  to  the  common  daffodil, 
excepting  that  they  are  of  a  delicate  creamy  white  color. 
While  it  is  classed  among  the  perfectly  hardy  sorts,  it 
must  be  planted  on  very  rich,  dry  soil,  and  then  slightly 
protected,  or  it  will  not  bloom. 

N.  Tazetta  (Polyanthus  Narcissus). — This  is  the 
type  of  an  entirely  distinct  class,  remarkable  for  the  fra- 
grance and  beauty  of  its  flowers.  We  have  already 
noticed  the  class,  on  Page  239,  observing  that  the  repre- 
sentatives are  not  hardy,  and  are  only  to  be  employed  in 
pot  culture,  or  in  glasses,  or  for  forcing  in  the  green- 
house for  cut  flowers  and  conservatory  decoration. 
There  are  several  hundred  varieties  of  this  species ;  the 
most  important  are : 

N.  T.  orientalis.— Chinese  Sacred  Lily,  Page  240. 


244          BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLAHTS. 

N.  T.  papyraceus  (Paper  White  Narcissus). — 
Among  the  varieties  in  great  demand  for  florists'  use  is 
the  Double  Roman,  one  of  the  best.  The  word  Tazetta 
signifies  a  small  deep  vessel,  like  a  cup.  Narcissus  is 
the  name  of  a  youth  said  to  have  been  changed  into  a 
flower.  See  Page  239. 

NECTAROSCORDIUM. 

Honey  Garlic. 

This  pretty  little  bulb  is  a  native  of  Sicily.  N.  sic- 
ulum,  the  only  species,  was  formerly  included  in  the  genus 
Allium.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  growing  freely  in  com- 
mon light  soil,  and  blooms  in  June.  The  flowers  are 
green,  or  purplish,  produced  on  a  slender  scape  three  to 
four  feet  high.  It  is  increased  by  offsets. 

NERINE. 
See  Page  21. 

ONION  LILY. 
See  Ornithogalum  caudatum,  Page  245. 

OPORANTHUS. 

A  synonym  of  Sterribergia  lutea,  Page  22. 
ORNITHOGALUM. 
Star  of  Bethlehem. 

This  is  a  genus  of  hardy,  half-hardy  and  tender 
bulbs,  but  few  of  which  have  any  place  in  the  garden. 
They  are  natives  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  The  hardy  species  increase  so  rapidly  as  to  be- 
come a  nuisance.  The  tender  species  will  grow  in  any 
moist  place  protected  against  frost. 

O.  arabicum. — Decidedly  the  finest  of  the  species, 
and  well  adapted  for  house  culture  ;  it  also  makes  a  fine 
display  in  the  garden.  The  flowers  are  large,  pure  white 
with  a  black  center,  borne  on  a  scape  one  and  one-half 


ORXITHOGALUM. 


245 


feet  long,  in  a  six  to  twelve  flowered  raceme.  In  pots 
they  should  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Hya- 
cinth, Page  147.  In  the  open  border  the  bulbs  should 
be  planted  in  the  spring,  as  they  will  not  survive  the 
winter  without  protection,  which  is  needed  quite  as 


FLOWERS    AND     PLANT    OF     ORNITHOGALUM    ARAB1CUM. 

much  against  water  as  against  frost.     They  are  rapidly 
increased  by  offsets. 

O.  caudatum  (Long-tailed  Ornithogalum). —  A 
tender  species  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  flow- 
ers are  small  and  greenish,  in  a  very  long,  densely-cov- 
ered, spike-like  raceme.  They  have  a  sweet,  but  rather 


246  BULBS  AND  TUBEKOUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

sickly  smell.  This  species  is  sometimes  called  Onion 
Lily,  an  4  is  a  favorite  with  the  Chinese,  who  grow  it  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  Sacred  Lily.  It  is  remarkably 
tenacious  of  life ;  it  will  grow  in  soil,  or  out ;  hang  it 
up  against  a  wall  in  a  dry  room,  and  it  will  flower  as 
well  there  as  anywhere ;  or,  if  planted  in  the  border,  it 
will  endure  our  winters,  if  slightly  protected. 

O.  thyrsoides. — This  species  and  its  varieties  have 
rather  pleasing  flowers,  some  yellow  of  different  shades, 
and  others  pure  white  with  a  dark  center,  all  distinct, 
and  pleasing  objects  in  the  greenhouse,  where  they  must 
be  grown. 

O.  umbellatum  (The  Common  Star  of  Bethlehem). 
Although  one  of  our  prettiest  early  summer  flowers,  its 
dissemination  should  be  avoided,  as  it  is  sure  to  assume 
the  mastery  over  every  other  form  of  vegetation  when  it 
once  gets  started.  If  this  species  could  be  confined 
within  reasonable  limits,  its  presence  in  the  garden 
would  be  most  desirable.  The  remain  ing  species  do  not 
merit  description. 

OVEIDA. 
See  Lapeyrousia,  Page  169. 

OXALIS. 

This  is  an  extensive  genus,  the  species  differing 
widely  in  habit  and  form,  and  requiring  various  methods 
of  culture.  The  genus  contains  annuals,  perennials  and 
bulbous  plants ;  the  latter,  only,  shall  we  mention.  Of 
these  there  are  several  species  of  great  value,  as  border 
plants  for  edgings,  and  for  winter  blooming  in  the  con- 
servatory or  window  garden. 

O.  Bowiei.— One  of  the  most  desirable  species. 
The  flowers  are  dark  rose,  produced  in  umbels,  continu- 
ously either  throughout  the  summer  or  winter,  according 
as  the  bulbs  have  been  treated.  Like  most  other  bulbs, 


OXALIS. 


247 


they  require  a  season  of  rest ;  that  season  can  be  easily 
regulated,  but  it  is  of  no  use  to  try  to  flower  these  bulbs 
in  winter,  if  they  have  flowered  in  the  summer.  The 
use  of  this,  as  well  as  of  the  following  species,  is  as 
winter  flowering  plants,  and  to  have  them  flower  in  win- 
ter, bulbs  must  be  procured  that  were  formed  on  winter 
flowering  plants,  and  ripened  off  in  spring  or  early  sum- 
mer. Bulbs  that  have  flowered  during  the  summer,  and 
have  formed  new  ones  which  have  perfected  their 


OXALIS   KOSEA    (FLORIBUNDA). 

growth,  will  not  flower  again  until  the  following  sum- 
mer. This  is  often  the  cause  of  failure,  in  winter 
blooming.  The  bulbs  offered  by  the  trade  have  been 
grown  in  the  open  ground  during  summer,  when,  instead, 
they  should  have  been  grown  in  the  greenhouse  the  pre- 
vious winter.  The  cultivation  of  this  species  is  very 
simple.  In  October  put  three  bulbs,  the  larger  the  bet- 
ter, in  a  six  inch  pot  filled  with  ordinary  potting  mold, 
and  place  them  where  they  can  have  all  the  light  possi- 


24:8  BULBS   AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

ble,  and  water  as  required.  They  will  at  once  show,  by 
the  drooping  of  the  foliage,  any  neglect  in  this  respect 
they  may  receive ;  they  will  soon  come  into  flower,  and 
continue  for  two  or  three  months.  This  species  would 
be  well  worth  growing  for  the  beauty  of  its  foliage, 
which  is  very  large  and  massive.  After  flowering,  grad- 
ually withhold  water;  when  the  foliage  dies  down,  set 
the  pots  away  where  the  soil  will  keep  perfectly  dry, 
until  it  is  time  to  start  them  into  growth,  when  they 
should  be  repotted.  They  increase  rapidly,  and  are 
natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

O.  luteola. — Another  Cape  species,  and  our  first 
choice  for  a  winter  flowering  bulb,  either  in  the  green- 
house, conservatory  or  window  garden.  It  must,  in  all 
respects,  be  treated  like  the  foregoing,  and  if  it  cannot 
have  plenty  of  sunlight  there  is  no  use  attempting  its 
growth.  The  flowers  are  golden  yellow,  produced  in 
large  terminal  clusters  on  long  slender  scapes.  It  is  a 
persistent  and  continuous  bloomer.  It  can  be  planted 
out  on  a  shallow  greenhouse  bench,  and  for  months  the 
bench  will  appear  a  mass  of  bloom. 

O.  rosea  (Floribunda). — See  Page  247. 

O.  versicolor. — A  splendid  border  plant,  quite  as 
ornamental  in  foliage  as  in  flower;  the  flowers  are  small, 
but  produced  in  such  quantity  as  to  make  a  pleasing 
effect. 

O.  lasiandra  (Woolly-stamened). — Very  effective 
as  a  border  plant,  and  a  continuous  bloomer.  It  should 
be  used  as  an  edging,  for  which  there  is  no  plant  more 
suitable.  The  leaves  are  very  large,  dark  green,  and 
having  seven  to  twelve  divisions.  The  bulbs  of  this  and 
of  the  preceding  species  should  be  taken  up  after  the 
first  frost,  and  stored  in  a  cool  cellar,  free  from  frost. 
They  increase  rapidly  by  offsets,  which  will  flower  the 
first  season. 

O.  cernua. — A  synonym  or  variety  of  0.  luteola. 
We  were  never  able  to  detect  any  difference. 


PANCRATIUM. 


249 


CALATHItf  UM« 


250  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

PANCEATIUM. 

This  is  a  genus  of  greenhouse  or  half-hardy  bulbs, 
but  little  cultivated,  from  the  fact  that  their  beauty  and 
usefulness  is  not  proportionate  to  their  price,  or  the  cost 
of  cultivation.  The  flowers  are  white,  or  greenish  white, 
produced  in  large  umbels,  on  a  solid  scape  about  two 
feet  high.  The  species  abound  in  the  South  of  Europe, 
Africa,  Arabia,  and  in  several  of  the  more  southern  of 
the  United  States.  They  all  require  greenhouse  treat- 
ment, thriving  best  when  planted  in  a  rather  light 
loamy  soil.  They  require  a  season  of  perfect  rest,  and 
are  propagated  by  offsets.  See  engraving,  Page  249. 

P.  maritimum  (Sea  Daffodil). — This  plant  abounds 
on  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  in  the  sands,  where 
it  has  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun  and  the  cold  winds 
from  the  sea.  These  conditions  are  difficult  to  furnish 
in  the  greenhouse,  and  to  flower  well  it  mnsb  have  them. 
It  seems  to  have  been  created  for  the  position  it  fills  in 
its  native  habitat,  where  it  blooms  most  profusely. 

P.  ovatum. — A  native  of  the  West  Indies,  and  is 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  genus,  and  a  desirable  green- 
house plant,  bearing  an  umbel  of  fifteen  to  thirty  pure 
white,  sweet-scented  flowers,  most  useful  for  cut  flower 
decoration,  while  the  plant  in  bloom  is  one  of  the  most 
useful  for  decorative  purposes.  It  is  an  easy  subject  to 
manage,  and  can  be  made  to  bloom  twice  in  a  season,  by 
giving  it  complete  rest  soon  after  flowering,  and  a  humid 
atmosphere  when  in  growth. 

P.  carolinianum. — Common  on  the  Southeastern 
coast  of  North  America  from  South  Carolina  to  Florida. 
This  is  now  considered  a  synonym  of  P.  maritimum, 
the  slight  difference  in  habit  being  attributed  to  climatic 
influences. 

P.  calathinum  (Hymenocallis).  —  A  native  of 
Brazil,  with  pure  white,  fragrant  flowers;  this  is  listed 


PARDANTHTTS.  251 

by  the  trade  as  Ismene  Knightii,  but  it  is  now  called 
Hymenocallis  calathina  (Page  158). 

PARDANTHUS. 
Blackberry  Lily,  or  Leopard  Flower. 

This  handsome  flower  is  not  a  lily,  as  its  popular 
name  implies,  but  belongs  to  the  Iris  family.  Its 
name,  Pardanthus  chinensis,  is  derived  from  pardos, 
leopard,  and  anthos,  a  flower — hence  leopard  flower ; 
and  chinensis  means  of  China.  The  Chinese  Leopard 
Flower  was  formerly  very  common  in  gardens,  but  like 
many  another  deserving  plant,  has  given  way  to  the 
universal  craze  for  novelties.  The  stem  grows  three  or 
four  feet  high,  branches  at  the  top,  where  it  bears  regu- 
lar flowers  of  an  orange  color,  and  abundantly  dotted 
with  crimson  or  reddish -purple  spots.  One  great  merit 
of  the  Leopard  flower  is  that  it  is  late  flowering,  being 
in  bloom  from  midsummer  to  September.  After  the 
pretty  flowers  have  faded,  the  capsules  grow  on  and 
enlarge,  and  when  quite  ripe  the  walls  of  the  capsules 
break  away  and  curl  up,  leaving  a  central  column  of 
shining,  black-coated  seed,  looking  so  much  like  a  well- 
developed,  ripe  blackberry,  that  the  fruit,  if  not  so 
handsome  as  the  flower,  is  quite  as  interesting,  and 
shows  that  in  this  instance  it  does  not  require  any  effort 
of  the  imagination  to  see  the  applicability  of  perhaps  its 
most  common  name — the  Blackberry  Lily.  The  plant 
is  hardy  in  most  of  the  Northern  States,  but  the  French 
florists  say  that  it  does  not  endure  the  winters  of  Paris 
without  protection.  It  is  a  tuberous-rooted,  herbaceous 
perennial,  requiring  a  rich,  sandy  loam  soil,  and  a  shel- 
tered situation  in  winter.  It  is  propagated  in  spring  by 
seeds,  or  by  division  of  the  roots.  A  plant,  together 
with  its  flowers  and  fruit,  is  seen  in  the  engraving, 
on  Page  252.  This  plant  is  now  botanically  known  as 
Belamcanda  chinensis.  See  engraving  on  next  page. 


252  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 


p 
BLACKBERRY  LILY  OR  LEOPARD  FLOWER. 


PENTLAXD1A— PEOmr.  253 

PENTLANDIA. 

See  Urceolina  miniata,  Page  298. 
PEONY. 

Pceonia. 

The  Peony  has  few  rivals  in  the  herbaceous  border, 
when  well  treated,  which,  as  is  the  case  with  many  other 
strong,  noble  characters,  is  not  always  done.  Because  it 
is  strong,  it*is  generally  supposed  that  it  will  feed  and 
care  for  itself.  The  reverse  is  the  case,  generally,  with 
strong  growing  plants.  The  stronger  they  are  the  more 
food  they  require  to  bring  out  their  full  development. 
A  more  neglected  plant  is  not  to  be  found  in  our  gardens 
than  the  Peony.  It  is  put  anywhere,  without  regard  to 
its  necessities,  in  the  shade,  in  the  grass,  or  so  near  the 
path  that  it  gets  trampled  under  foot.  In  spite  of  such 
treatment  it  will  flower.  While  the  Peony  will  flower 
under  unfavorable  circumstances,  it  should  have  a  deep, 
lively  loam,  rich  when  the  plants  are  set,  and  kept  so 
ever  after.  The  ground  should  be  mulched  in  summer 
to  keep  the  roots  moist,  and  some  coarse  litter  should  be 
thrown  over  the  plant  in  winter  to  prevent  severe  freez- 
ing, as  well  as  alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  The  soil 
should  be  well  worked  about  the  plants,  the  same  as  for 
the  Rose.  With  such  treatment,  the  plants,  from  a  dis- 
tance, will  seem  all  flower,  instead  of  presenting  an  occa- 
sional one. 

Shrubby  Peonies. — This  genus  is  divided  into 
two  distinct  classes,  Shrubby  and  Herbaceous,  of  which 
there  are  several  species,  and  a  large  number  of  varieties. 
The  shrubby  species  and  varieties  are  usually  propagated 
by  division,  or  layers ;  but  they  may  also  be  grafted  on 
the  roots  of  the  herbaceous  sorts,  or  struck  from  cut- 
tings. The  grafting  may  be  done  any  time  from  the 
beginning  of  September  until  the  first  of  March.  Select 
good  strong  tubers  of  the  herbaceous  sorts,  and  take  off 


254  BULBS  AHD  TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 


MOUTAtf  OB    TBEE  PEONY. 


PEONT.  255 

cuttings  about  six  inches  long  of  any  desired  variety. 
Then  slit  the  tubers  from  the  crown  downwards  about 
two  inches ;  form  the  scion  like  a  wedge,  insert  it  into 
the  slit  of  the  tuber,  and  fit  the  barks  on  one  side  as 
accurately  as  possible,  then  bind  them  well  together,  as 
in  any  ordinary  root  grafting.  It  is  well  to  bind  with 
copper  wire,  as  the  bast  may  rot  before  a  union  takes 
place.  Put  them  in  a  shaded  cold  frame ;  plant  them 
out  when  faiey  have  perfected  one  season's  growth,  or 
treat  them  like  established  plants.  The  shrubby  Peonies 
are  considered  perfectly  hardy,  and  are,  so  far  that  frost 
will  not  injure  the  plants,  but  they  will  flower  more 
freely  in  a  well  sheltered  situation. 

Pseonia  M  out  an  (Tree  Peony). — This  species  is  a 
native  of  China  and  Japan,  whence  it  was  introduced  in 
1789.  In  its  native  habitat  it  is  said  to  grow  from  eight 
to  ten  feet  high,  bearing  an  abundance  of  purple  flowers. 
With  us  it  rarely  grows  four  feet  high,  but  in  a  partially 
protected  situation  it  forms  a  rather  dense  under-shrub, 
and  flowers  profusely.  Since  the  species  were  first  intro- 
duced numerous  varieties  have  been  brought  out,  with 
white,  pink,  purple,  rose,  magenta  and  salmon-colored 
flowers,  mostly  single  or  semi-double.  See  engraving. 

The  Herbaceous  Peonies  are  increased  by  divis- 
ion. When  this  is  desirable  it  should  be  done  in  Octo- 
ber. The  tubers  may  be  divided  to  any  extent,  only  it 
is  necessary  to  have,  at  least,  one  eye  on  each  tuber. 
Immediately  after  cutting  up,  plant  in  nursery  rows,  or 
where  they  are  to  remain.  If  divided  in  autumn  they 
will  usually  flower  the  following  season,  but  if  divided 
in  the  spring  they  rarely  flower  until  another  year.  The 
most  desirable  species  are  : 

Pseonia  albiflora. — This  is  the  old  and  well- 
known  double  white  Peony,  a  native  of  Siberia ;  of  this 
there  are  several  varieties,  all  of  which  are  very  showy 
and  useful.  They  are  mos^y  aboiLt  t*rc  fee^  hl^h, 


256  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

are  distinguishable  by  the  rather  bold,  smooth,  three- 
parted  leaves.  A  few  of  the  best  are : 

Var.  fragrans. — Dark  pink  rose-scented  flowers. 
Var.  Humei. — Double  crimson,  very  showy. 
Var.  Pottsii. — Dark  crimson ;  the  plant  tall-grow- 
ing and  strong. 

Var.  Whitleyii. — Fine  double  white,  yellowish 
center. 

P.  officinalis. — This  is  the  old  double  red  Peony 
of  the  gardens,  one  of  the  most  showy  of  the  species,  as 
well  as  the  most  desirable,  because  of  its  hardiness  and 

free-flowering  qualities. 
It  is  closely  allied  to 
the  foregoing  species, 
and  is  the  parent  of  nu- 
merous varieties. 

P.  tenuifolia  (Fine 
Leaved  Peony). — This 
is  one  of  the  most  dis- 
tinct of  herbaceous  Peo- 
nies. It  is  rather  dwarf, 
rarely  growing  more 
than  a  foot  high.  The 
leaves  are  much  parted, 
and  the  segments  are 
divided  into  numerous 

FINE   LEAVED   PEONY.  ,,          -,  V1      ,    ,  m, 

thread-like  lobes.     The 

flowers  of  the  double  forms  are  very  compact,  of  a  bright 
crimson  color.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest  of  our  spring 
flowers,  blooming  soon  after  the  Tulip.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  Peonies,  and  worthy  a  place  in  any  select  border, 
and  is  quite  elegant  and  congruous  in  small  gardens. 

The  herbaceous  Peonies  are  readily  propagated  by 
seed,  by  which  means  an  almost  endless  variety  may  be 
secured,  as  hybridization  has  been  so  effective  that  the 
seedlings  partake  of  all  the  forms  and  colors  that  the 
species  are  capable  of  producing. 


PEONY — PH^DRANASSA.  $5? 

Peony  seeds  should  be  sown  in  light  soil  as  soon  as 
ripe,  which  will  be  about  the  first  of  September,  and 
covered  with  half  an  inch  of  soil.  They  will  come  up 
the  following  spring,  and  may  remain  in  the  seed  bed 
for  two  years  before  they  are  transplanted,  scattering  a 
little  earth  over  them  when  the  leaves  decay,  at  the  end 
of  the  growing  season.  After  two  years  growth  in  the 
seed  bed,  they  should,  in  October,  be  transplanted  into 
well  prepared  nursery  rows,  and  put  out  six  inches  apart, 
and  three  inches  deep.  Here  they  are  to  remain  until 
they  flower,  which,  if  in  good  soil,  and  with  good  culti- 
vation, will  be  the  fourth  year  after  seed-sowing. 

PERUVIAN    DAFFODILS. 

See  Hymenocallis  Amancaes,  Page  157. 

PEYROUSIA. 
See  Lapeyrousia,  Page  169. 

PBLEDRANASSA. 

Queen  Lily. 

A  small  genus  of  rather  curious  bulbs,  growing  at  a 
high  elevation  among  the  rocks  in  the  Peruvian  Andes. 
They  are  more  interesting  than  showy  or  handsome. 
The  flowers  are  about  two  inches  long,  in  the  form  of  a 
slender  tube,  of  a  light  pea-green  color,  tipped  with 
pink.  They  flower  in  winter,  after  which  the  bulbs 
require  a  long  season  of  rest.  Their  whole  period  of 
growth  does  not  exceed  three  months.  The  cool  green- 
house is  suited  to  them.  They  increase  by  offsets. 

PHALLOCALLIS. 

See  Cypella,  Page  76. 

PHYCELLA. 

A  small  genus  of  half-hardy  bulbous  plants  from 
the  mountain  regions  of  Mexico,  which  is  now  included 
in  Hippeastrum,  Page  13. 
17 


258  BULBS   A^D   TUBEROUS-BOOTED    PLANTS. 

PLANTIA. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  bulbs  now  included  in  Hexa- 
glottis,  Page  337. 

POLIANTHES  TUBEROSA. 

Tuberose. 

Everyone  who  has  a  garden,  or  a  taste  for  flowers, 
knows  the  Tuberose.  Its  history,  however,  may  not  be 
known.  D.  F.  Fish,  in  his  book  on  "Bulbs  and  their 
Culture,"  says  it  is  a  native  of  Italy.  In  Nicholson's 
"Dictionary  of  Gardening/'  Mexico  has  the  honor  of 
its  nativity.  Two  species  make  up  the  genus. 

In  Parkinson's  quaint  old  book,  "The  Garden  of 
Pleasant  Flowers,"  published  in  1629,  we  find  the  follow- 
ing description  of  it,  under  its  then  known  name  of 
Hyacinth,  with  which  it  was  classed  :  "  Hyacinthus 
Indicus  major  tuber osa  radice,  '  the  greater  Indian 
Knobbed  Jacinth.'  I  have  thought  fittest  to  begin  with 
this  Jacinth  (Hyacinth),  both  because  it  is  the  greatest 
and  highest,  and  also  because  the  flowers  herof  are  in 
some  likenesse  neare  unto  a  Daffodille,  although  his 
roote  be  tuberous,  and  not  bulbous,  as  the  rest  are. 
This  Indian  Jacinth  hath  a  thicke  knobbed  roote  (yet 
formed  into  several  heads,  somewhat  like  unto  bulbous 
roots),  with  many  thick  fibres  at  the  bottom  of  them ; 
from  the  divers  heads  of  this  roote  arise  divers  strong 
and  very  tall  stalkes,  beset  with  divers  faire,  long  and 
broad  leaves,  joined  at  the  bottome  close  unto  the  stalk, 
where  they  are  the  greatest,  and  smaller  to  the  very  end, 
and  those  that  grow  higher  to  the  toppe,  being  smaller 
and  smaller.  The  toppes  of  the  stalkes  are  garnished 
with  many  faire,  large,  white  flowers,  each  wherof  is 
composed  of  six  leaves,  lying  spread  open  as  the  flowers 
of  the  white  Daffodil,  with  some  short  threads  in  the 
middle,  and  of  a  very  sweet  scent,  or  rather  strong  and 
heades." 


POLIANTHES  TUBEROSA. 


259 


The  double  flowering  variety  was  a  seedling  raised 
by  Mons.  Le  Cour,  of  Ley  den,  in  Holland,  who  for  many 
years  would  not, 
under  any  circum- 
stances, part  with 
a  root  of  it.  Even 
after  propagating 
a  desired  quantity, 
if  there  was1  a  sur- 
plus, he  would 
cause  every  tuber 
to  be  cu  t  in  pieces 
and  destroyed,  in 
order  to  be  the 
only  possessor  of 
so  valuable  a  pi  ant, 
and,  which  he  con- 
sidered, the  finest 
flower  in  the  world. 

The  cultiva- 
tion of  the  Tube- 
rose bulb  was,  for 
many  years,  con- 
fined principally 
to  the  Italian  nur- 
series ;  but  for  the 
past  twenty-five 
years  they  have 
been  largely  grown 
in  the  United 
States.  At  the 
present  time  the 
markets  of  the 
world  are  largely 
supplied  with  DOUBLE  TUBEROSE. 

American  grown  bulbs.     Less  change  of  form  from  the 
species  has  taken  place  with  this,  than  with  almost  any 


260  BULBS   AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANT'S. 

other  form  in  cultivation.  The  only  change  worthy  a 
varietal  name  was  a  "Sport,"  discovered  by  John  Hen- 
derson, of  Flushing,  N.  Y.,  growing  in  his  field,  about 
1870..  A  number  of  plants  of  strong  habit  of  growth, 
and  with  dark,  broad  foliage,  attracted  his  attention, 
and  he  determined  to  keep  them  apart  from  his  main 
stock,  in  order  to  see  what  the  result  would  be.  These 
he  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as  his  other  bulbs. 
Upon  their  flowering,  he  discovered  a  distinct  type,  of 
dwarf  habit,  and  much  larger  flowers.  This  he  at  once 
named  the  "  Pearl,"  and  from  the  then  small  stock 
the  trade  is  now  wholly  supplied.  What  is  known  as 
the  "Excelsior"  Pearl,  is  simply  the  "Pearl,"  and 
nothing  else. 

P.  gracilis. — A  native  of  Brazil.  It  has  pale  yel- 
low flowers  of  small  merit,  and  is  but  little  known. 

P.  tuberosa  (Common  Tuberose). — The  earliest 
account  we  have  of  this  species  is  in  L'Ecluse's  "History 
of  Plants,"  from  which  we  learn  it  was  brought  from 
the  Indies  by  Father  Theophilus  Minuti,  a  Christian 
missionary,  about  the  year  1530,  who  grew  it  in  his  gar- 
dens near  Toulon,  France.  Bernard  Paludanus,  a  dis- 
tinguished physician  at  Eome,  grew  it  in  1594,  having 
obtained  the  roots  from  the  priests,  who  had,  previously, 
refused  the  most  earnest  entreaties  to  part  with  it.  At 
this  time  the  single  species  and  the  variety  with  varie- 
gated foliage  were  the  only  ones  in  cultivation. 

Culture  of  the  Tuberose. — The  Tuberose  is  a 
gross  feeder,  and  succeeds  best  in  a  light  loam,  but  will 
grow  in  any  soil,  providing  it  is  moist  and  rich ;  rich  it 
must  be,  without  regard  to  other  conditions ;  its  com- 
plete requisites  are,  heat,  water  and  manure ;  if  these 
are  proportionate,  it  matters  not  how  much  there  may 
be,  the  plants  will  consume  it,  and  by  their  growth  show 
its  importance. 

For  field  culture  prepare  the  ground  as  for  a  crop  of 
potatoes;  plant  in  drills  thirty  inches  apart,  and  place 


POLIANTHES  TUBEROSA.  261 

the  bulbs  four  inches  apart  iu  the  drills,  three  inches 
below  the  surface.  Keep  the  cultivator  constantly 
going,  not  to  kill  weeds,  but  to  make  Tuberose  bulbs. 
After  a  frost  take  up  the  bulbs,  cut  the  tops  to  within 
two  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  bulbs,  and  store  in  a  dry 
room,  where  the  temperature  does  not  fall  below  40°. 
From  North  Carolina  southward,  small  sets  will  make 
large  flowering  bulbs  in  one  season  ;  to  the  northward  it 
requires  twb  years.  For  that  reason,  what  are  known  as 
"Southern  grown  bulbs,"  can  be  profitably  sold  much 
cheaper  than  those  grown  at  the  North.  Whether  the 
latter  are  to  be  preferred  because  of  their  superiority,  is 
a  disputed  question.  Our  opinion  is  that  it  is  not  a 
question  of  growth,  but  of  the  care  taken  of  the  bulbs 
after  they  are  dug,  that  enhances  or  detracts  from  their 
value.  Northern  grown  bulbs,  like  all  other  plants  that 
have  a  shorter  period  of  growth,  will  produce  their  flow- 
ers earlier,  but  whether  with  more  certainty  we  have 
great  doubts. 

For  blooming  in  the  garden,  the  offsets  should  all 
be  carefully  taken  off,  and  the  bulbs  put  away  until  the 
wounds  are  dried  over;  then  plant  in  good  rich  soil, 
placing  the  bulb  just  below  the  surface ;  if  covered  too 
deep  they  are  not  as  likely  to  flower. 

Greenhouse  Culture  of  Tuberoses. — Tuberoses 
can  be  had  in  bloom,  with  a  little  care,  nearly  the  whole 
year.  Plants  that  show  flower  buds  in  the  field,  upon 
the  approach  of  frost,  will  perfect  their  growth  if  care- 
fully taken  up  and  put  in  a  warm  greenhouse,  as  will 
bulbs  that  have  not  even  shown  their  flower  stalks.  Dry 
bulbs  may  be  planted  from  January  to  August,  which 
will  keep  up  a  succession  of  bloom.  They  succeed  best 
planted  out  on  the  benches  with  about  four  inches  of 
good  soil.  The  same  conditions  of  growth  must  be 
observed  indoors  as  without, — heat,  manure,  water,  and 
a  free  circulation  of  air.  They  must,  moreover,  have 


262  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

the  full  light  of  the  house ;  in  a  dark  house,  the  flower- 
spikes  will  be  long-drawn,  weak,  and  the  flowers  will  be 
small  and  of  but  little  substance. 

The  too  common  practice  of  filling  up  every  vacant 
place  in  the  greenhouse  with  Tuberoses  is  a  mistake. 
To  have  good  flowers,  the  plants  must  have  plenty  of 
room,  light,  air  and  heat.  The  bulbs  should  not  be 
closer  than  six  inches  apart  each  way. 

PUSCHKINIA. 

P.  scilloides,  the  only  species,  is  a  pretty  little 
bulb  with  flowers  resembling  those  of  a  Scilla.  The 
leaves  grow  from  the  root,  and  stand  erect  round  the 
stem,  as  though  protecting  the  flower.  It  is  a  native  of 
Asia  Minor,  the  Caucasus  and  Afghanistan,  and  quite 
hardy.  Treat  the  same  as  all  hardy  bulbs.  The  propa- 
gation is  effected  by  offsets. 

PYROLIRION". 
Flame  Lily. 

The  two  species  that  constitute  this  genus  have 
tubular  flowers,  bearing  considerable  resemblance  to 
those  of  the  Zephyranthes  in  shape,  but  differ  widely  in 
color.  They  are  both  natives  of  Peru,  and  require  the 
same  treatment  as  the  Zephyranthes  (Page  25).  They 
flower  in  summer,  growing  freely  in  light  soil.  The 
bulbs  must  be  kept  from  frost  during  winter. 

P.  aureum  (Zephyranthes  Flower). — Grows  as 
freely  in  the  grain  fields  and  hedgerows  of  Peru,  as  the 
daisies  in  our  fields.  The  flowers  are  clear  golden  yellow. 

P.  flavum. — In  all  respects  similar  to  the  above, 
except  in  its  orange-colored  flowers. 

QUEEN  LILY. 

See  Phaedranassa,  Page  257. 


EANUNCULUS.  263 

RANUNCULUS. 

Nearly  one  hundred  and  sixty  species  are  included 
in  this  genus,  which  is  divided  into  two  distinct  classes  : 
The  Herbaceous  Ranunculus,  which  inhabit  nearly 
every  country  of  the  globe,  and  embrace  all  manner  of 
weeds,  as  well  as  showy  plants ;  and  the  Garden  Ranun- 
culus. The  latter  consist  of  many  hundreds  of  varieties 
obtained  from  the  species  Ranunculus  asiaticus,  a  na- 
tive of  the  Devant.  This  species  has  tuberous  roots,  is 
indigenous  in  Persia,  in  meadows  which  are  moist  during 
the  winter  and  the  growing  season,  but  dry  during  a 
great  part  of  summer.  In  our  climate  the  latter  plant 
is  difficult  to  manage,  as  it  should  be  planted  in  Febru- 
ary, a  season  when  gardening  operations  are  wholly  sus- 
pended. If  the  tubers  are  planted  then  and  protected 
by  a  frame,  they  flower  freely  in  June ;  then  they  should 
bave  a  partial  shading  from  the  sun,  which  is  too  powerful 
for  them.  The  soil  they  prefer  is  a  light  and  sandy  one, 
riade  rich  with  well-rotted  manure ;  avoid  any  that  is 
heating.  What  is  known  as  the  Turban  Ranunculus 
should  be  planted  in  November,  and  protected  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  former. 

Very  soon  after  the  blooming  season,  the  leaves 
begin  to  fade,  a  sign  that  the  roots  are  fit  to  be  taken 
up,  much  depending  upon  doing  this  at  the  proper  time. 
If  taken  up  before  they  are  ripe,  a  loss  of  vigor  is  the 
result,  and  the  same  if  allowed  to  remain  a  few  days 
beyond  the  proper  season.  The  proper  time  is  easily 
determined,  by  the  leaves  parting  from  the  roots  with  a 
slight  pull ;  when  this  can  be  done,  let  them  be  at  once 
taken  up.  After  cleansing  them  from  the  soil,  spread 
them  thinly  in  a  shaded  place  to  dry,  turning  them  fre- 
quently until  they  are  perfectly  dried,  then  they  may  be 
stored  away. 

The  tubers,  if  kept  dry,  will  retain  their  vitality  for 
two  or  three  years ;  this  will  allow  of  their  being  planted 


264  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 


TYPES  OP  BANUNCULUS. 


RANUNCULUS.  265 

at  any  desired  time ;  and,  as  the  cool  greenhouse  is  the 
proper  place  for  growing  them,  in  our  climate,  a  succes- 
sion of  bloom  can  be  constantly  kept  up.  In  the  green- 
house, the  bulbs  may  be  planted  in  pots,  pans  or  boxes  ; 
three  tubers  will  be  sufficient  for  a  six  inch  pot.  The 
flowers  are  very  showy  and  pleasing ;  colors  from  pure 
white  to  dark  crimson  and  yellow,  with  every  variety  of 
variegation.  Ranunculus  is  the  Latin  name  for  little 
frog,  applied-  by  Pliny  to  these  plants,  the  aquatic  spe^ 
cies  growing  where  frogs  abound. 

As  we  have  said  in  the  American  Agriculturist: 
Very  few  races  of  plants  have  a  wider  geographical  range, 
or  a  greater  diversity  of  character  than  the  Ranunculus. 
The  genus  contains  species  of  rare  beauty,  and  a  few 
troublesome  weeds.  Some  are  inhabitants  of  swamps, 
and  others  thrive  in  dry,  waste  places.  The  common 
buttercup,  R.  lulbosus,  is  a  weed  in  our  marshy  mead- 
ows, but  it  is  as  welcome  as  spring  to  the  botanist,  or 
the  lover  of  early  flowers.  It  gives  so  much  warmth 
and  life  to  the  landscape  that,  troublesome  as  it  is,  the 
meadow  would  seem  unnatural  without  it.  The  Ranun- 
culus of  gardens  is  R.  asiaticus,  commonly  known  as 
the  Persian  Ranunculus,  although  it  was  first  introduced 
from  the  Levant  in  1596.  Like  many  other  florists' 
flowers,  the  species  has  expanded  to  many  varieties  pro- 
duced through  the  agency  of  cross-fertilization.  One 
hundred  years  ago  it  was  one  of  the  most  popular  plants 
under  cultivation,  eight  hundred  distinct  varieties  being 
grown.  It  is  still  exceedingly  popular  in  Europe,  where 
it  can  be  easily  grown,  a  bed  keeping  in  bloom  for  fully 
two  months.  The  flowers  are  of  various  shades,  and 
with  an  intensity  of  color  only  to  be  found  in  the  poppy. 
There  is  no  class  of  plants  more  free-flowering.  A  good 
strong  tuber  will  throw  up  as  many  as  thirty  flowers. 
Its  name  is  from  rana,  a  frog,  because  the  plants  usually 
inhabit  the  same  places.  For  that  reason,  beautiful  as 


266  BULBS   AND   TUBEROUS-BOOTED   PLANTS. 

the  flower  is,  it  is  not  well  suited  to  our  climate,  and 
can  only  be  grown  under  artificial  conditions  that  render 
its  cultivation  here  more  difficult.  The  Kanunculus  is 
one  of  the  many  plants  of  remarkable  beauty  in  their 
own  homes,  but  not  adapted  to  other  climates.  Drouth, 
poverty  of  soil,  rare  atmosphere  and  fierce  sunshine,  are 


CALLA   FLOWERS   AND   FOLIAGE. 

fatal  to  its  development.  It  is,  moreover,  easily  injured 
by  frost.  Very  satisfactory  results,  however,  can  be 
obtained  by  planting  the  bulbs  in  a  cold  frame,  protected 
by  a  liberal  mulching  of  leaves  to  exclude  the  frost.  In 
early  spring  remove  the  mulch,  but  keep  the  sash  on,  as 


BICHARDIA.  267 

cold  winds  are  fatal ;  on  the  other  hand,  they  will  not 
endure  intense  sunshine,  so  that  great  care  is  required 
in  shading  and  ventilating,  to  imitate  well  the  cool, 
moist  climate  of  Europe. 

RICHARDIA. 

Calla.     Egyptian  or  Arum  Lily.     Lily  of  the  Nile. 

Calla  is  a  popular  name  given  this  flower  by  Pliny. 
It  is,  botanically,  Richardia  cethiopica  (synonym 
R.  africana),  and  is  the  best  representative  of  the 
genus,  which  contains  five  species.  They  abound  in  the 
Nile,  and  flower  during  the  season  of  high  water,  which 
covers  the  roots  to  the  depth  of  several  inches.  After 
the  spring  freshets  have  subsided  the  water  falls  below 
the  roots,  and  the  tops  die  down,  fall  over  and  protect 
the  roots  against  the  tropical  sun.  This  is  the  period  of 
rest  that  nature  furnishes  this  plant,  during  which  time 
the  temporary  bed  of  the  river,  in  which  they  grow,  is 
as  dry  as  dust.  In  this  condition  they  remain  several 
months,  or  until  they  are  again  covered  with  water, 
when  growth  is  renewed. 

To  grow  the  Calla  well,  these  conditions  must  be 
approximated.  While  we  cannot  afford  them  rivers  to 
grow  in,  we  must  afford  them  an  abundance  of  water,  a 
moderately  high  temperature  and  a  rich  soil.  In  pot 
culture,  too  large  pots  must  not  be  given  them ;  a  six- 
inch  size  is  sufficiently  large  for  a  plant  with  two  or 
three  crowns,  which  should  give  several  blooms  each. 
In  large  pots,  leaf  growth  will  be  the  result,  rather  than 
flowers.  In  using  small  pots,  liquid  manure,  in  some 
form,  should  be  applied  at  least  once  a  week.  Another 
disadvantage  in  the  use  of  large  pots  is,  that  the  flowers 
are  too  large  for  real  beauty,  or  for  use  as  cut  flowers. 
The  same  result  follows  from  planting  them  out  in  beds 
in  the  greenhouse. 


268  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


CALLA   FIELD 


BICHABDIA. 


269 


Ltf    CALIFORNIA. 


270          BULBS  AKD  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

After  flowering,  a  season  of  Complete  rest  is  essential. 
This  is  best  afforded  by  turning  the  pots  on  their  sides 
in  some  shaded  place,  where  water  cannot  reach.  This 
is  as  near  as  we  can  approach  a  natural  rest.  With  this 
rest  the  plants  will  make  less  leaves,  and  far  more  flow- 
ers, which  is  the  object  to  be  gained. 

The  plants  may  be  re-potted,  if  necessary,  about  the 
first  of  October,  giving  them  a  pot  one  size  larger  than 
they  previously  occupied.  The  offsets  may  be  potted 
separately,  in  two-inch  pots,  which  are  sufficiently  large. 
If  the  plants  are  not  over-crowded  in  the  pots  a  change 
will  not  be  necessary.  Set  the  pots  in  a  tub  of  water 
until  the  ball  is  thoroughly  wet,  then  grow  on  as  before 
stated.  For  the  window  garden  there  is  no  more  satis- 
factory plant  than  the  Calla ;  it  will  endure  more  heat 
than  most  others,  and  there  is  no  danger  from  over- 
watering.  An  occasional  syringing  and  washing  of  the 
leaves  with  a  soft  sponge,  to  keep  them  free  from  dust, 
is  of  great  importance.  What  are  popularly  known  as 
Crimson  or  Black  Callas,  are  species  of  Arum,  described 
on  Page  33.  The  true  species  are  : 

R.  aethiopica  (Syn.  R.  africana).  —  Described 
above. 

R.  albo-maculata. — A  species  with  spotted  foliage, 
and  smaller  white  flowers,  with  purple  center,  produced 
freely  in  summer.  It  makes  a  fine  clump  in  the  border. 
The  tubers  of  this  species  can  be  kept  dry  during  winter, 
the  same  as  Dahlias  (Page  84),  and  divided  in  spring 
when  planted  out.  This  species  grows  readily  from  seed 
sown  in  the  garden  at  the  same  time  the  bulbs  are 
planted  ;  flowering  the  second  year. 

R.  hastata  (Yellow  Calla). — The  flowers  of  this 
species  are  similar  in  all  respects  to  those  of  R.  cetliiopica, 
excepting  that  they  are  of  a  greenish  yellow  color. 
The  plants  are  to  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 


RIGIDELLA— HOMAK  SQUILL.  271 

EIGIDELLA. 

R.  flammea,  a  native  of  Mexico,  is  the  best  repre- 
sentative of  this  small  genus  of  plants,  where  it  grows 
from  three  to  five  feet  high,  with  very  broad  and  curi- 
ously plicate  leaves,  which  look  as  though  they  had  been 
artificially  plaited  by  the  hands  of  a  skillful  workman. 
The  flowers  are  numerous,  all  issuing  from  one  spathe, 
and  opening  only  one  at  a  time.  They  are  very  hand- 
.some,  from  the  brilliancy  of  their  color  and  the  peculiar- 
ity of  their  form.  It  is  a  summer  flowering  bulb,  to  be 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Tigridia. 

ROMAN    HYACINTH. 

See  Page  153. 

ROMAN  SQUILL  OR  BELLEVALIA. 

This  flower  is  usually  classed  with  the  genus  Hya- 
cinthus,  Page  156.  It  is  a  hardy,  bulbous  plant,  well 
adapted  for  spring  bedding  or  for  forcing  for  cut  flow- 
ers. The  leaves  are  few  and  near  the  ground.  It  is 
propagated  by  offsets,  and  also  by  seeds,  which  should 
be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 

Bellevalia  romana  (Hyacinthus  romanus)  (Roman 
Squill). — The  small,  whitish,  bell-shaped  flowers  are 
borne  in  racemes.  A  native  of  Italy,  and  the  best 
species  for  forcing. 

B.  syriaca  (Syrian  Squill). — Flowers  whitish  or 
violet,  tinged  with  green.  A  native  of  Syria. 

ROMUELA. 
See  Trichonema,  Page  278. 

SANGUINARIA. 

Bloodroot. 

S.  canadensis. — The  common  Bloodroot  of  our 
woods  is  a  herbaceous,  tuberous-rooted  plant,  well  wor- 


272  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

thy  a  place  in  the  shaded  border.  It  can  be  easily 
removed  from  its  native  habitat,  by  lifting  the  tuberous 
roots  when  the  foliage  begins  to  turn  yellow,  and  trans- 
ferring them  to  the  garden,  with  as  little  delay  as  possi- 
ble. But  few  of  our  native  plants  are  as  attractive,  or  so 
easily  managed.  When  once  planted  it  can  remain 
undisturbed  for  years,  and  when  under  cultivation  the 
flowers  increase  in  size  and  in  the  number  of  their  petals. 
In  the  border,  it  will  require  a  mulching  of  leaves,  which 
it  has  in  its  native  wood,  to  protect  against  frost. 

SCILLA. 
Squill. 

Among  spring  and  early  summer  flowering  bulbs, 
the  Scillas  are  of  considerable  importance,  both  for  their 
effect  in  the  border  and  for  their  use  as  cut  flowers. 
Their  flowers  resemble  those  of  the  Hyacinth,  but  are 
much  smaller;  their  colors  are  more  intense,  and  they 
come  into  flower  much  earlier.  As  an  edging,  or  for  fill- 
ing small  beds,  if  planted  sufficiently  thick,  the  effect  is 
matchless ;  and  equally  so  grown  in  the  borders  in  groups 
of  a  dozen  or  a  hundred.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted 
in  October,  either  in  the  border,  or  for  the  house  in  pots, 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  Hyacinth.  They  thrive  any- 
where, but  do  best  in  good  sandy  soil.  They  may  remain 
several  years  undisturbed  without  injury,  the  clump 
increasing  in  size  and  beauty. 

S.  sibirica. — This  species  is  the  gem  of  the  genus, 
its  intense  blue  flowers,  appearing  with  the  Crocus  and 
Snowdrop,  make  a  pleasing  contrast.  It  is  a  native  of 
Siberia,  as  its  name  would  imply,  and  is  perfectly  hardy. 

S.  praecox. — Similar  to  the  foregoing,  but  not  as 
hardy;  however,  if  planted  in  a  dry  situation,  it  will 
not  be  injured  by  frost.  It  is  a  native  of  Germany. 

S.  campanulata. — One  of  the  finest  species;  a 
native  of  Spain.  Flowers  blue,  white  and  pink. 


SCILLA — SKO  WD  ROP. 


273 


S.  peruviana. — A  South  American  species,  with 
blue  and  white  flowers,  on  immense  spikes ;  a  magnifi- 
cent plant  for  pot  culture,  but  not  hardy. 

S.  nutans  (common  Bluebell  or  Harebell). — A  very 
beautiful  hardy  species,  common  in  English  woods. 

S.  amcena. — One  of  the  best,  early  and  free-flower- 
ing. Although  a  native  of  the  Levant,  it  is  usually 
hardy.  There  are  an  immense  number  of  species  and 


SIBERIAN    SQUILL. 

varieties  of  the  same  general  character,  which  can  be 
grown  in  the  same  manner. 

SCILLA  FRASERI. 

See  Camassia,  Page  52. 

SNOWDROP. 

See  Galanthus,  Page  95. 
18 


274 


BULBS  AND   TUBEROUS-HOOTED  PLANTS. 


SNOWFLAKE. 

See  Leucoium,  Page  169. 

SPARAXIS. 

These  were  formerly  included   in   the   genus  Ixia 
(Page  166),  and  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  them,  the 

main  points  of  difference  being 
that  the  Sparaxis  are  of  more 
compact  habit  of  growth,  the 
flowers  more  bold,  and  some- 
what larger,  and  the  flower 
spikes  are  not  more  than  half 
as  high,  rarely  growing  more 
than  six  inches.  They  require 
the  same  treatment  as  the 
Ixias,  in  all  respects,  and  are 
propagated  in  the  same  man- 
ner. They  deserve  a  place  in 
the  greenhouse  and  window 
garden. 

SPREKELIA. 

See  Page  22. 

STAR-GRASS. 
See  Hypoxis,  Page  158. 
STAR  OF  BETHLEHEM. 

See    Ornithogalum,    Page 


SPARAXIS. 


246. 
STENOMESSOJST. 


A  small  genus  of  South  American  bulbs  formerly 
included  in  Coburgia,  Pancratium  and  Amaryllis. 
Although  rather  pretty,  the  most  of  them  do  not  com- 


STEBNBERGIA — STRUMAfilA — TIGK1DIA.  275 

pensate  for  the  greenhouse  treatment  they  require.  All 
require  a  very  strong,  rich  soil,  and  the  Coburgias  do 
well  in  the  open  border,  but  flower  better  if  grown  in 
pots,  as  in  the  border  they  are  more  disposed  to  make 
offsets  than  flowers.  If  grown  in  pots,  which  is  the  best 
way  of  treating  them,  they  should  be  plunged  in  the 
open  border  until  the  leaves  are  fully  grown,  when  they 
may  be  brought  into  the  greenhouse  to  develop  their 
flowers. 

S.  coccineum.— Scarlet.  Native  of  Peruvian  Andes. 

S.  incarnatum  (Coburgia). — A  very  large  bulb,  and 
requires  planting  from  five  to  six  inches  deep.  Flowers 
cup-shaped,  of  a  bright  crimson  color,  with  green  spots 
on  each  petal.  Keep  perfectly  dry  during  winter. 

S.  i.  fulvum. — A  more  delicate  variety,  with  light 
orange  flowers.  It  succeeds  best  in  the  open  border, 
and  the  bulbs  are  stored  like  the  Gladiolus  during  win- 
ter (Page  115). 

STERNBERGIA. 

See  Page  22. 

STRUMARIA. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  bulbs  allied  to  Nerine  (Page 
21),  and  requiring  to  be  grown  in  the  same  manner.  The 
flowers  are  red,  white  or  pink.  They  are  of  dwarf  habit, 
and  thrive  with  ordinary  greenhouse  treatment. 

TIGRIDIA. 

Tiger  Flower  or  Tiger  Iris. 

These  singular  Mexican  bulbs  have  no  equal  for  gar- 
den display,  when  we  consider  their  ease  of  culture,  the 
length  of  time  they  are  in  flower,  their  magnificent  col- 
ors and  singular  forms.  Their  remarkable  flowers  are 
of  but  short  duration,  never  lasting  more  than  a  day, 
but  are  produced  ii;  such  successive  abundance  as  to 
compensate  for  this  defect;  one  plant  will  continue 


BULBS  Atffc  TUBEROUS-HOOTED 


TIGRIDIA   FLOWEB 


TIGKIDIA.  277 

flowering  for  two  or  three  months,  and  during  the  whole 
of  that  time  will  make  a  splendid  display  in  the  garden. 

For  the  best  effect  the  Tigridia  should  be  planted  in 
beds,  the  rows  to  be  one  foot  apart,  and  the  bulbs  six 
inches  apart  in  the  rows,  the  different  varieties  ^n  the 
same  bed  and  the  colors  in  alternate  rows.  Tuey  are 
not  particular  as  to  soil,  preferring  a  light,  rich  one,  but 
will  thrive  in  any  if  they  have  the  same  attention  that  is 
given  other* summer-flowering  bulbs  or  bedding  plants. 
They  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  gardening  operations 
commence.  After  the  first  hard  frost,  the  bulbs  should 
be  taken  up  and  tied  in  bunches,  with  the  tops  left  on, 
and  hung  up  in  a  cellar  or  dry  room  free  from  frost.  In 
a  damp  cellar  the  bulbs  will  be  liable  to  rot.  The  main 
object,  in  hanging  them  up,  is  to  protect  them  against 
the  mice,  which  are  particularly  fond  of  them.  It  would 
answer  just  as  well  to  cut  the  tops  close  to  the  bulbs  and 
keep  them  in  ventilated  boxes,  if  secure  against  mice. 
They  increase  rapidly  by  offsets,  but,  in  planting,  it  is 
better  not  to  break  the  bulbs  apart,  they  will  naturally 
divide ;  each  bulb  planted  will  make  two  or  three  clusters 
of  three  each  ;  the  latter  should  not  be  separated,  as  they 
are  liable  to  rot  when  broken  apart. 

T.  conchiflora.  —  Flowers  deep  yellow-crimson 
cup,  spotted. 

T.  grandiflora. — Said  to  be  a  variety  of  T.  pavonia, 
has  very  largo  bright  orange-red  flowers. 

T.  grandiflora  alba. — Perhaps  a  sport  from  the 
foregoing ;  has  pure  white  flowers,  with  center  or  cup 
crimson  spotted.  This  is  a  beautiful  variety. 

These  three  kinds  are  all  that  could  be  desired, 
and  they  are  all  essential ;  the  bed  would  not  be  com- 
plete if  either  of  the  three  were  absent.  The  several 
other  varieties  listed,  are  varieties  only  in  name.  T. 
pavonia  is  intermediate  between  T.  conchiflora  and  T. 
grandiflora,  but  is  a  poor  grower  and  its  color  not 
pleasing. 


278  BULBS  AND    TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

TILE  EOOT. 

See  Geissorhiza,  Page  98. 

TRICHONEMA. 
Romuela. 

A  genus  of  pretty  little  crocus-like  bulbous  plants, 
natives  of  the  Cape  and  of  the  South  of  Europe.  They 
require  the  same  treatment  as  the  Ixia  (Page  166). 
The  flowers  are  red,  blue,  yellow,  purple  and  rose,  and 
are  produced  in  spring.  These  bulbs  are  not  hardy,  and 
not  of  sufficient  interest  to  warrant  greenhouse  culture. 
This  genus  is  now  included  in  Eomuela. 

TRILLIUM. 
American  Wood  Lily,  or  Wake  Eobin. 

But  few  of  our  native  early  flowering  plants  are 
more  showy  than  the  Trillium.  It  abounds  in  moist, 
rocky  woods,  in  the  Northern  and  Eastern  States,  and 
can  be  successfully  grown  among  shrubbery,  if  the  situa- 
tion is  not  too  dry.  The  bulbs,  or  more  properly, 
tubers,  are  small,  roundish,  and  generally  deep  in  the 
ground ;  they  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as  the  tops 
die  down,  and  planted  deep.  They  are  perfectly  hardy. 

T.  grandiflorum. — A  magnificent  plant;  nothing 
can  surpass  a  mass  of  this  when  in  bloom  in  its  native 
habitat ;  color  pure  white,  changing  to  rose  color. 

T.  cernuum. — Flowers  white,  with  green  and  pur- 
ple center,  hidden  beneath  the  leaves.  Easy  of  cultiva- 
tion, but  not  very  handsome. 

T.  sessile. — A  low-growing  speoies,  with  dark  red- 
dish flowers  and  variegated  foliage. 

There  are  several  other  species,  but  T.  grandiflorum 
is  the  only  truly  desirable  one. 

TRITELEIA. 

A  small  genus  of  bulbs,  natives  of  South  America 
and  California.  Their  general  appearance  bears  a  great 
*e§emblance  to  the  flowers  of  Brodiaea  (Page  45). 


TEITELEIA — TRITONIA. 


279 


T.  uniflora. — The  only  species  much  cultivated, 
and  deserving  more  attention  than  it  has  yet  received, 
as  it  is  a  very  elegant  species.  The  flowers,  which  are 
produced  in  June,  are  very  delicate  and  beautiful,  being 


TRILLIUM. 

of  a  pale  sky  blue  color ;  the  only  objection  to  them 
being  their  garlic  odor.  Its  introduction  into  the  green- 
house was  prevented  by  the  fact  of  its  unpleasant  odor. 
They  increase  rapidly  by  offsets ;  and  protection  should 
be  afforded  them  in  winter. 

TRITOOTA. 

This  genus  is  allied  to  Sparaxis,  Gladiolus,  Ixia  and 
Babiana.  The  plants  are  generally  of  dwarf  growth, 
and  more  tender  than  their  allies.  They  are  somewhat 


280  BULBS   AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

difficult  to  manage,  not  thriving  in  the  open  border,  as 
they  must  be  amply  protected  against  frost  and  too  much 
moisture,  and  in  the  greenhouse  they  do  not  make  suffi- 
cient root  growth  to  supply  the  leaves  with  nourishment. 
The  genus  seems  adapted  only  to  its  native  habitat. 
The  species  were  formerly  included  with  th^  Ixias  (Page 
166),  and  similar  treatment  is  very  near  to  their  necessi- 
ties. See  also  Montbretia,  Page  233. 

T.  aurea. — Also  known  as  Crocosma  aurea,  is 
the  easiest  to  manage,  and  the  one  most  generally  culti- 
vated. They  succeed  well  as  border  plants,  in  light  soil, 
perfectly  drained,  but  they  must  be  protected  against 
frost.  Although  they  do  not  flower  until  August  or 
September,  the  bulbs  must  remain  in  the  ground  during 
winter,  as  they  cannot  remain  long  out  of  ground  with- 
out injury.  To  keep  them  dry  during  winter  would  be 
fatal  to  them,  so  the  only  resource  left  is  to  protect  them 
in  the  bed,  or  take  them  up  after  flowering  and  keep 
them  in  pots.  Neither  of  the  methods  will  find  favor 
with  the  American  gardener,  who  has  so  many  resources 
from  which  to  draw,  either  for  the  garden  or  greenhouse. 

TEOP^EOLUM. 

Nasturtium. 

The  tuberous  species  of  this  genus  are  very  interest- 
ing plants,  the  best  known  being : 

T.  tricolor um. — So  named  because  of  its  three- 
colored  flowers,  orange,  red  and  purple.  The  tubers  of 
this  species  are  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  should 
be  planted  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  either  in  pots,  or 
on  the  greenhouse  bench,  in  light  fibrous  soil.  From 
these  tubers  will  arise  delicate  hair-like  stems,  which 
increase  in  size  as  they  grow,  being  three  times  the 
thickness  at  a  distance  of  six  feet  from  the  bulb.  These 
stems  are  so  delicate  that  it  is  necessary  to  provide  a 
frame  or  trellis  for  their  support,  as  they  are  entirely 


TUBEROSE — TULIP.  281 

unable  to  support  themselves.  The  leaves  do  not  appear 
until  the  vines  are  several  feet  in  length.  The  flowers 
are  very  showy,  and  produced  in  the  greatest  profusion. 
Half  a  dozen  tubers,  planted  at  the  end  of  the  center 
bench  of  a  greenhouse,  will  present  a  mass  of  bloom  sev- 
eral feet  square.  This  is  the  only  one  of  the  class  that 
is  worthy  of  cultivation,  and  it  should  always  be  seen  in 
the  conservatory. 

TUBEROSE. 

See  Polianthes   Page  258. 

TULIP. 

Tulipa. 

Few  plants  show  so  plainly  the  florists'  skill  in  selec- 
tion and  cross-fertilization  as  the  Tulip.  Like  the  Glad- 
iolus, it  has  been  improved  in  nearly  every  respect,  with- 
out losing  the  respect  of  the  systematic  botanist.  It  is 
true  that  in  the  garden  Tulips  there  are  a  few  double 
forms,  "vegetable  monsters,"  as  Linnasus  termed  all 
double  flowers ;  but  they  are,  relatively,  few,  and  the 
taste  for  them  is  on  the  decline  rather  than  on  the  in- 
crease. Among  the  true  admirers  of  the  Tulip  the 
double  forms  meet  with  but  little  favor;  where  flowers 
are  grown  simply  to  show  a  mass  of  color,  without  re- 
gard to  form  or  structure,  as  in  our  public  parks,  the 
double  Tulips  answer  a  very  good  purpose,  because  they 
are  showy,  and  last  longer  than  the  single  forms.  As 
flowers  begin  to  be  appreciated  for  their  intrinsic  worth, 
when  we  look  into  them  rather  than  at  them,  when  we 
see  all  their  parts  and  their  wonderful  adaptation  to  each 
other,  the  beautiful  necessity  there  is  for  each,  our 
respect  for  double  forms  will  be  lost  in  our  admiration 
for  the  single  flower,  perfect  in  all  its  parts  as  it  was 
when  it  first  beautified  the  earth,  and  there  was  none  to 
admire  other  than  the  Power  that  gave  it. 


282  BULBS   AKD  TUBEKOUS-EOOTED  PLANTS. 


TYPES  OF  TULIPS. 


TULIP.  283 

It  seems  to  be  the  more  general  opinion  that  all 
flowers,  in  their  natural  state,  are  undeveloped,  that 
they  require  the  florist's  cunning  hand  to  become  per- 
fect, and  that  some  one,  with  authority  to  speak,  must 
say  what  constitutes  the  perfect  flower,  and  when  a 
given  form  has  reached  that  state.  We  wish  to  dissent 
from  that  view  most  emphatically.  While  we  are  willing 
to  admit  that  certain  forms  and  colors  have  been  mate- 
rially developed  by  the  florists'  skill,  we  assert,  without 
fear  of  contradiction,  that  no  floral  form  is  more  perfect, 
no  colors  more  intense  or  better  defined,  than  the  orig- 
inal forms  possessed,  and  that  all  our  skill  in  cultivation 
can  only  restore  to  the  flower  the  properties  that  have 
been  lost,  in  the  long  ages  when  there  was  no  kindly 
hand  to  assist  in  its  struggles  with  stronger  forms,  to 
gain  a  supremacy.  Cultivation  will  enable  the  flower, 
or  the  plant  upon  which  it  grows,  to  reach  that  perfec- 
tion which  its  creation  entailed ;  it  can  do  no  more. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Tulip  has  restored  ics  original 
size  and  strength ;  aided  by  cross-fertilization  it  has 
given  new  forms,  or  shapes  of  flower,  a  marked  change 
in  colors,  or  in  their  distribution,  and  has  been  the 
means  of  developing  that  taste  and  love  for  the  beautiful 
in  the  flower  that  keeps  apace  with  the  intelligence  and 
refinement  of  the  age.  Our  perfected  single  Tulips  are 
simply  restored  natural  forms. 

Garden  or  Show  Tulips. — The  more  popular 
Tulips  for  the  garden  are  what  are  usually  known  as 
Late  Flowering  Tulips,  single- forms;  these  are  divided 
into  several  distinct  classes,  all  of  which  had  their  origin 
in  Tulipa  Gesneriana,  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and  com- 
mon in  Syria  and  Persia.  It  was  brought  to  Europe 
from  Persia  in  1559,  and  was  cultivated  at  Constan- 
tinople. From  this  city  it  found  its  way  over  Europe, 
under  the  name  of  the  Turkish  Tulip;  and  it  was  first 
botanically  described  by  Gesner,  a  Swiss  botanist  resid- 


284  BULBS  AXD  TUBEROUS -ROOTED   PLANTS. 

ing  at  Zurich,  after  whom  it  was  very  appropriately 
named  by  Linnaeus.  About  a  century  after  its  first 
introduction,  it  became  an  object  of  commercial  specula- 
tion, and  enormous  prices  were  paid  for  a  single  bulb. 
It  is  said  that  as  much  as  $3,000  was  offered  and  refused, 
in  one  instance.  This  mania  ruined  many  of  the  Dutch 
florists,  as  well  as  other  speculators  who  were  more 
excited  and  reckless  than  the  growers;  but  happily  it 
subsided  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century,  and 
the  propagation  and  trade  in  the  Tulip  assumed  a  healthy 
tone ;  the  industry  rapidly  increased  until  the  present 
time,  when,  in  Holland,  more  than  seven  hundred  acres 
are  devoted  to  its  culture. 

This  class  of  Tulips  has  been  grown  from  seed  by 
the  millions,  and  the  named  varieties  are  so  great  that 
it  would  be  impossible  to  enumerate  them ;  one  dealer 
alone  boasts  of  more  than  eighteen  hundred  varieties. 
The  ease  with  which  the  Tulip  can  be  grown  from  seed 
stimulated  production  to  a  wonderful  extent,  the  result 
of  which  is  a  vast  number  of  superb  varieties.  The 
method  of  growing  the  Tulip  from  seed  is,  in  many 
respects,  unlike  that  of  any  other  plant.  There  is  a  sin- 
gularity about  it  exclusively  its  own.  The  seedlings, 
generally,  when  they  first  bloom,  produce  flowers  with- 
out any  stripes  or  markings ;  a  yellow  or  white  bottom, 
and  all  the  upright  portion  of  the  petals  self-colored, 
brown,  red,  purple,  scarlet,  or  rose,  and  in  this  condition 
they  remain  a  number  of  years  without  any  variegations  ; 
they  are  then  called  Breeders,  or  Mother  Tulips.  These 
Breeders  are  planted  every  year  until  they  "break"  into 
stripes,  and  if  they  prove  desirable  they  are  named,  if 
not,  they  are  thrown  into  the  class  known  as  mixtures ; 
but  it  takes  so  many  years,  sometimes,  before  the 
"breaking"  occurs,  that  they  are  multiplied  largely  in 
the  breeder  state,  that  is,  in  self  colors,  and  are  dissem- 
inated in  all  directions  as  "selfs";  many  of  these  we 


TULIP.  285 

consider  the  most  desirable  for  garden  decoration.  Each 
person  who  has  broken  one  thinks  he  has  a  right  to  give 
it  a  distinctive  name,  without  considering  whether 
others  have  not  produced  varieties  similar,  if  not  identi- 
cal, so  that  there  may  be  under  cultivation  many  varie- 
ties with  different  names  that  are  one  and  the  same 
thing.  This  causes  great  confusion  in  nomenclature, 
the  same  as  exists  in  all  florists'  flowers.  Another  inter- 
esting peculiarity  which  hardly  belongs  to  any  other 
flower,  is  the  great  uncertainty  of  their  markings ;  for 
although  we  may  have  twenty  of  one  kind  in  a  bed, 
scarcely  two  will  come  nearly  alike  ;  but  after  they  have 
once  broken  they  never  after  change,  the  increase  always 
bearing  the  same  marks.  This  uncertainty  gives  more 
than  half  the  charm  to  Tulip  cultivation,  or,  rather,  to 
the  production  of  new  varieties. 

The  ideal  of  a  first-class  late  Tulip  has,  by  common 
consent,  been  thus  minutely  specified  :  The  stem  should 
be  strong,  elastic  and  erect,  growing  to  about  thirty 
inches  above  the  surface  of  the  bed.  The  flower  should 
be  large,  and  composed  of  six  petals.  These  should  pro- 
ceed a  little  horizontally  at  first,  and  then  turn  upwards, 
forming  almost  a  perfect  cup,  with  a  round  bottom, 
rather  widest  at  the  top.  The  three  exterior  petals 
should  be  rather  larger  than  the  three  inner  ones,  and 
broader  at  their  base ;  all  the  petals  should  have  per- 
fectly entire  edges,  free  from  notch  or  serrature.  The 
top  of  each  should  be  broad  and  well  rounded;  the 
ground  color  of  the  flower  at  the  bottom  of  the  cup 
should  to  clear  white  or  yellow ;  and  the  various  rich 
colored  rtripes,  which  arc  the  principal  ornament  of  a 
fine  fillip,  shc-ild  be  regular,  bold  and  distinct  on  the 
margin,  and  terminated  in  fine  broken  points,  elegantly 
feathered  or  penciled.  The  center  of  each  leaf  or  petal 
should  contain  one  or  more  bold  blotches  or  stripes, 
intermixed  with  small  portions  of  the  original  or  breeder 


286  BULBS  AND  TUBEBO  US-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

color,  abruptly  broken  into  many  irregular,  obtuse  points. 
Some  florists  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  central  stripes 
or  blotches  do  not  contribute  to  the  beauty  and  elegance 
of  the  Tulip,  unless  confined  to  narrow  stripes  exactly 
down  the  center,  and  that  they  should  be  perfectly  free 
Yom  any  remains  of  the  breeder  or  original  color.  It  is 
ortain  that  such  appear  very  beautiful  and  delicate, 
especially  when  they  have  a  regular,  narrow  feathering 
at  the  edge ;  but  the  greatest  connoisseurs  in  this  flower 
unanimously  agree  that  it  denotes  superior  merit,  when 
the  Tulip  abounds  with  rich  coloring,  distributed  in  a 
distinct  and  regular  manner  throughout  the  flower, 
except  in  the  bottom  of  the  cup,  which,  it  cannot  be  dis- 
puted, should  be  a  clear,  bright  white  or  yellow,  free 
from  stain  or  tinge,  in  order  to  constitute  a  perfect 
flower. 

These  views  are  from  the  highest  standpoint  of  the 
florists'  skill  and  taste ;  we  give  them  to  show  the 
thought  that  has  been  given  the  Tulip  in  the  way  of 
selection,  without,  for  a  moment,  departing  from  our 
original  opinion,  that  the  most  natural  form  is  the  most 
beautiful  form.  And  then,  again,  are  not  the  florists' 
forms  simply  a  selection  of  natural  forms,  so  long  as 
they  are  normal;  that  is,  capable  of  reproduction  by 
nature's  own  processes  ?  The  Late  Flowering,  or  Show 
Tulips  are  classified  as  follows  : 

Byblcemen. — This  has  white  ground,  lined,  marked, 
striped  or  variegated  with  violet  or  purple,  only  of  vari- 
ous shades,  and  whether  feathered  or  flamed,  is  distin- 
guished by  the  same  characters  and  marks  as  the  Bizarre 
Tulip. 

Bizarre. — Distinguished  by  yellow  grounds,  marked 
with  purple  or  scarlet  of  different  shades.  It  is  called 
"flamed, "when  a  broad,  irregular  stripe  runs  up  the 
middle  of  the  petals,  with  short,  abrupt,  projecting 
points  branching  out  on  each  side  j  fine  narrow  lines, 


TULIP.  28? 

called  "arched"  and  "ribbed,"  often  extend  from  this 
broad  stripe  to  the  extremity  of  the  leaves,  the  color 
generally  appearing  strongest  in  the  inside  petals.  A 
Tulip  with  this  broad  colored  stripe,  which  is  sometimes 
called  "beamed,"  or  "splashed,"  is,  at  the  same  time, 
4 '  feathered  "  also.  It  is  called  "  feathered  "  when  it  is 
without  this  broad  stripe,  but  yet  having  narrow  lines 
joined  or  detached,  running  up  the  center  of  the  leaf, 
sometimes  branching  out  and  curved  towards  the  top, 
and  sometimes  without  any  spot  or  line  at  all ;  the  petals 
are  feathered  more  or  less  around  the  edges  or  margin, 
inside  and  out ;  the  penciling,  or  feathering,  is  heavy  or 
broad  in  some,  and  light  and  narrow  in  others,  some- 
times with  breaks  or  gaps,  and  sometimes  close,  and  con- 
tinued all  around. 

Rose,  or  Rosy  on  "White. — Variegated  with  rose, 
scarlet,  crimson  or  cherry  color,  on  a  white  ground ;  and 
the  feathered  rose  is  to  be  distinguished  from  the  flamed 
by  the  rules  already  mentioned ;  the  rose  is  very  often 
both  feathered  and  flamed.  Of  the  three  classes  here 
named,  the  last  is  decidedly  to  be  preferred ;  its  colors 
are  more  in  harmony  with  the  season ;  they  are  spring- 
like and  cheery,  while  the  others,  though  gorgeous  and 
rich,  seem  better  fitted  for  autumn. 

Selfs. — These  are  the  Breeder,  or  Mother  Tulips; 
the  flowers  are  without  markings,  but  with  a  yellow  base, 
the  upper  portion  of  the  petals  being  self-colored,  brown, 
red,  purple,  scarlet,  white,  yellow  or  rose,  with  every 
shade  these  colors  are  capable  of  producing ;  it  is  even 
claimed  that  in  this  class  has  been  found  some  that  are 
black. 

In  the  four  classes  it  is  much  better,  because 
cheaper,  to  buy  mixed  bulbs ;  they  are  all  grown  from 
named  sorts,  or,  at  least,  they  are  mainly  so,  and  will 
give  as  much  satisfaction  as  the  higher  priced  sorts.  If 
we  could  have  but  one  class  it  would  be  the  Selfs,  as  we 


288  BULBS   AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

admire  neutral  tints ;  our  next  choice  would  be  the  Kose 
Tulips,  for  reasons  before  stated. 

Single  Early  Tulips. — The  early  flowering  Tulips 
are  mostly  descendants  from  T.  prcecox  and  T.  oculus- 
solis,  and  these  vary  but  little  in  specific  characters. 
T.  Gesneriana  is  also  accredited  with  the  parentage  of 
many  of  the  sorts.  The  fact  is,  but  little  is  known  of 
the  origin  of  these  early  forms.  It  is  sufficient  to  know 
that  in  this  class  we  have  a  far  greater  number  of  varie- 
ties, embracing  every  form  and  color,  than  in  the  preced- 
ing class,  and  that  they  are  far  more  easy  of  cultivation  ; 
much  cheaper,  and  more  showy  in  the  garden.  Their 
flowers  have  a  dazzling  brightness,  but  are  wanting  in 
that  richness  and  substance  that  marks  the  late  varieties. 
Their  earliness  is  a  great  point  in  their  favor,  as  a  suc- 
cession can  be  kept  up  for  two  or  three  weeks  before  the 
late  flowering  kinds  appear.  They  are,  moreover,  very 
useful  for  forcing,  either  for  house  decorations  in  pots, 
or  for  florists'  use  as  cut  flowers. 

The  nomenclature  of  the  single  early  Tulips  has 
been  sadly  abused ;  on  an  average  there  are,  at  least, 
three  aliases  for  each  name,  which  is,  to  say  the  least,  a 
little  bit  confusing,  although  the  harm  done  to  the  gar- 
den may  not  be  serious,  but  to  the  florist  it  is  quite 
another  matter,  as  earliness  is  altogether  important.  A 
flower  that  conies  two  weeks  earlier  than  its  alias,  will 
give  him  a  profit,  while  the  latter,  although  exactly  the 
same,  to  all  external  appearances,  would  prove  a  loss. 
For  instance,  take  the  class  known  as  Due  van  Thol  (of 
which  we  shall  make  special  mention),  of  which  there 
are  pure  yellow,  white,  scarlet  and  variegated  forms,  all 
of  which  are  used  extensively  by  the  florists  for  forcing, 
few  others  doing  as  well  for  the  purpose.  For  these 
many  other  sorts  are  substituted,  by  the  Dutch  mer- 
chants, at  the  request  of  their  customers.  We  know 
this  to  be  the  case,  as  we  have  had  propositions  from 


TULtfc  289 

them  to  do  ifc.  Last  year  we  had  a  proposition  to  fur- 
nish about  one  hundred  thousand  bulbs  for  public  parks ; 
the  list  included  more  than  a  dozen  named  sorts ;  we 
presented  the  same  to  the  dealers  in  Holland,  who  said 
they  could  not  furnish  the  list,  and  would  not  try, 
because  others  would  substitute  the  same  colors  for  a 
much  less  price,  and  would  get  the  order ;  at  the  same 
time  the  bulbs  would  not  give  satisfaction,  because  there 
would  be  ifo  uniformity  in  the  period  of  flowering.  The 
result  was  as  they  stated ;  cheaper  sorts  were  used,  and 
the  desired  effect  of  masses  of  color  in  contrast  was  lost. 

In  the  public  parks,  as  well  as  in  the  flower  garden, 
the  early  forms  have  a  decided  advantage  over  the  late 
flowering  sorts,  as  they  are  gone  in  time  to  have  their 
places  filled  with  bedding  plants,  which  last  until  killed 
by  frost.  The  late  tulips  would  not  be  done  flowering 
until  the  season  is  too  far  advanced  to  put  in  many  sorts 
of  bedding  plants,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  success. 

The  relative  difference  between  the  early  and  late 
sorts  of  Tulips  is  truthfully  stated  by  Shirley  Hibbard, 
an  acknowledged  authority,  as  follows:  "The  Tulips 
to  which  the  florists  give  attention  now  are  late  Tulips 
exclusively ;  they  can  see  no  merit  in  the  early  ones,  and 
from  their  point  of  view,  there  can  be  no  question  as  to 
the  soundness  of  their  choice.  The  early  Tulips  give  us 
none  of  the  rare  pencilings  of  flames  and  feathers ;  the 
pure  white  basis  proper  to  a  Tulip  of  high  breeding,  is 
unknown  amongst  them;  and  the  short  Tozza  form, 
smooth  and  evenly  expanded,  like  Hebe's  cup,  they  can- 
not show,  consequently,  the  early  Tulips  have  been 
thrown  out  of  the  select  catalogue,  and  the  lovers  of  gay 
flowers,  who  care  little  for  fanciful  markings  that  are 
very  costly,  but  care  much  for  abundant  color  at  a  low 
price,  may  be  fully  gratified,  and,  after  all,  may  still 
congratulate  themselves  that  the  cheap  early  Tulips  were, 
once  upon  a  time,  valued  above  rubies,  and  that  only 
19 


£96  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

wealthy  persons  could  afford  to  use  them  for  the  adorn- 
ment of  their  gardens/9 

Varieties  for  the  Garden. — In  making  a  selec- 
tion for  the  garden,  we  should  depart  from  the  rule  laid 
down  for  the  late  flowering  sorts,  and  select  named  vari- 
eties, as  the  mixtures  vary  so  much  in  height  and  time 
of  flowering,  as  well  as  in  colors,  that  a  good  effect  can- 
not be  produced  with  them.  The  following  are  among 
the  best,  and  will  give  every  desired  form  and  color : 

Artus. — Brilliant  dark  scarlet,  very  handsome  and 
effective. 

Brutus. — The  earliest  scarlet,  vivid  in  color,  with 
a  very  slight  yellow  feather  on  the  edges.  A  low  priced 
sort. 

Due  van  Thol. — Scarlet,  is  an  inestimable  bed- 
ding Tulip,  dwarf,  of  fine  color  and  very  cheap. 

Couleur  Cardinal. — A  splendid  bedding  Tulip, 
having  a  most  unusual  dwarf  and  rigid  habit ;  the  flow- 
ers are  of  a  rich  dark  red,  with  a  vivid  crimson  feather 
on  the  edges ;  it  is  a  little  late  in  blooming,  but  serves  c.- 
useful  purpose  in  keeping  up  a  succession  of  bloom. 

Belle  Alliance. — Crimson  scarlet;  dwarf,  early, 
and  lasts  well. 

Canary  Bird. — Clear  rich  yellow;  early. 

Chrysolora. — One  of  the  earliest,  deep  yellow, 
large  and  handsome.  One  of  the  best. 

Keizers-Kroon. — Bright  shining  red,  broadly  edged 
with  deep  yellow,  magnificent  for  any  purpose  ;  a  bed  of 
this  variety  alone  is  simply  gorgeous. 

Lac  van  Rhyn. — Dark  violet,  silver  white  margin. 

Pottebakker. — Pure  white,  large,  handsome,  and 


Queen  Victoria. — Eosy  white,  very  effective. 
Rose  Gris-de-lin.— Rose,  shaded  with  white,  very 
fine. 

The  list  could  be  extended  to  almost  any  limit,  but 


tulip.  £91 

the  above  are  all  that  can  be  desired  by  the  amateur.  A 
list  for  pots  and  for  forcing  in  the  greenhouse  will  be 
found  on  another  page. 

Due  van  Thol  Tulips. — This  is  a  distinct  class, 
known  by  the  botanists  as  T.  suaveolens,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  generally  grown,  either  in  the  garden,  in  pots 
in  the  house,  or  by  the  florists  for  cut  flowers,  because  it 
is  one  of  th$  earliest.  The*  true  Due  van  Thol  Tulip 
may  always  be  known  by  its  fragrance,  as  indicated  by 
its  specific  name,  suaveolens.  The  varieties  are  white, 
yellow,  scarlet,  vermilion  and  variegated.  There  is  of 
it,  also,  a  double  form,  yellow  and  scarlet,  and  if  any  of 
the  double  forms  are  to  be  tolerated  in  the  garden,  this 
one  should  have  a  place ;  it  is  showy  and  effective.  Of 
this  class  there  are  many  counterfeits ;  the  varieties  of 
T.  oculus-solis,  bearing  the  closest  resemblance,  are  fre- 
quently substituted  for  it. 

Parrot  Tulips. — These  are  not  in  good  repute 
with  the  Tulip  growers,  who  consider  them  degenerate 
forms  of  T.  Gesneriana,  and  some  of  the  growers  assert 
that  they  are  all  sports,  and  that  it  is  not  an  uncommon 
occurrence  to  meet  them  in  their  highly  prized  named 
sorts.  Without  regard  to  their  parentage,  they  certainly 
have  come  to  stay,  as  they  propagate  freely,  and  remain 
true  to  colors.  The  so-called  Dragon  Tulips  are  the 
most  striking,  in  many  respects.  The  petals  are  curi- 
ously laciniated  or  slashed,  the  colors  rich  and  varied, 
and  the  foiau,  especially  before  the  flower  opens,  some- 
what resembles  the  neck  or  beak  of  the  parrot,  from 
whence  it  derives  its  popular  name.  They  have  a  strik- 
ing and  singular  effect  in  the  garden,  because  of  their 
unique  forms  and  strangely  contrasted  colors.  There 
are  but  few  varieties,  none  too  many  for  even  a  small 
garden.  We  give  them  as  follows  : 

Admiral  de  Constantinople.  — -  Red,  striped 
orange. 


£92  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAKTS. 

Coffee  Colored  Crimson. — Yellow  and  green, 
finely  marked. 

Luteo  Major  (Large  yellow). — Finely  marked  with 
purple  and  green. 

Rubro  Major  (Monster  Range). — Very  large, 
bright  crimson,  extra  fine  flower. 

Mark  Graaf  van  Baden  (Markgrave  of  Baden). — - 
Red,  green  and  yellow,  very-showy. 

AVe  advise  the  planting  of  the  named  varieties  of 
these,  as  our  experience  with  them  is,  that  the  mixed 
varieties  are  not  mixed ;  that  but  two  or  three  distinct 
sorts  are  all  that  are  usually  to  be  found  in  the  so-called 
mixtures.  As  variety  is  especially  desirable  in  this  pecu- 
liar class,  and  as  the  bulbs  are  not  expensive,  named 
sorts  only  should  be  used. 

Double  Tulips. — In  both  the  early  and  late  sorts 
there  are  double  forms,  which  are  valued  highly  by  some, 
not  only  for  their  display,  but  because  they  continue 
longer  in  bloom  than  the  single  forms.  The  following 
list  includes  the  most  desirable  for  bedding  purposes  : 

EARLY   DOUBLE   TULIPS. 

Blanc  Borde  Pourpre. — Violet,  white  edge. 

Due  van  Thol. — Yellow  and  red,  dwarf. 

Duke  of  York. — Bronze  crimson,  buff  margin. 

Gloria  Solis. — Bronze  crimson,  bordered  with 
yellow. 

Imperator    Rubrorum.— Bright    scarlet,    showy. 

La  Candeur. — Pure  white,  very  fine. 

Rex  Rubrorum. — Brilliant  scarlet,  one  of  the  best. 

Rosine. — Splendid  rose. 

Salvator  Rosa. — Dark  purple  rose. 

Tournesol  Red. — Scarlet,  with  yellow  border. 

Tournesol  Yellow. — Fine  clear  yellow,  slightly 
tinged  with  purple. 

Velvet  Gem. — Dark  carmine,  very  beautiful. 


TULIP.  293 

LATE   DOUBLE   TULIPS. 

Belle  Alliance.  —  White,  feathered  with  violet 
crimson. 

Bonaparte. — Chocolate  brown. 

Couronne  des  Roses. — Red  and  white. 

Marriage  de  Ma  Fille. — Pure  white  striped  with 
rose. 

Overwinnaar. — White,  with  purplish  blue  stripes, 
fine. 

Princess  Alexandria. — Red,  margined  with  yel- 
low, dwarf. 

Miscellaneous  Tulips. — With  many  the  growing 
of  the  species  is  a  pleasing  feature  in  gardening ;  it  mat- 
ters not  what  the  plant  may  be,  there  is  a  curiosity  to 
know  from  whence  our  varieties  sprung.  This  is  partic- 
ularly true  of  the  Tulip.  This  taste  is  on  the  increase, 
and  we  find  some  of  the  species  quite  commonly  culti- 
vated. Among  them  are  the  following,  all  worthy  a 
place  in  the  garden  : 

T.  Clusiana  (Lady  Tulip). — A  very  beautiful  spe- 
cies with  white  flowers,  which  are  pink  at  the  back,  and 
have  a  black  ring  in  the  center.  It  was  introduced  very 
early.  Gerarde  mentions  it  in  1597,  calling  it  the  Persian 
Tulip.  It  is  found  wild  in  Italy,  Sicily,  Portugal  and 
Spain,  and  it  is  highly  deserving  of  cultivation,  although 
it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  manage  ;  it  must  be  grown  in 
a  dry  situation,  and  be  protected  against  frost. 

T.  cornuta  (Horned  Tulip). — This  very  singular 
Tulip  is  more  curious  than  beautiful;  the  petals  are 
very  long  and  pointed.  It  is  well  worth  growing,  not 
only  for  its  remarkable  appearance,  but  also  for  the  long 
time  it  continues  in  flower.  It  flowers  rather  later  than 
the  common  Tulips.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Levant, 
whence  it  was  introduced  in  1816.  It  is  perfectly  hardy. 

T.  Gesneriana. — Already  described  on  Page  283, 
as  the  parent  of  our  show,  or  late  flowering  Tulips. 


294  BULBS   AND   TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

.T.  australis  (Celsiana). — A  native  of  Siberia; 
flowers  star-shaped,  deep  yellow,  flat,  opening  nearly  six 
inches  across  ;  very  fragrant. 

T.  Greigii. — A  species  or  recent  introduction,  na- 
tive of  Turkestan,  from  whence  it  was  introduced  in 
1873,  by  Herr  Max  Leichtlin,  who  says  the  bulbs  are  so 
extremely  hardy  that  they  will  withstand  freezing  and 
thawing  with  impunity,  and  that  even  when  the  leaves 
are  half  grown  they  will  endure  a  temperature  as  low  as 
that  of  zero  without  any  protection.  The  plant  is  a  vig- 
orous grower,  attaining  a  height  of  from  nine  to  fifteen 
inches,  bearing  a  solitary  flower  from  four  to  six  inches 
in  diameter,  goblet-shaped,  generally  of  a  vivid  orange- 
scarlet  color,  with  black  spots  on  yellow  ground  at  the 
base  of  the  petals..  The  foliage  is  broad,  lively  green, 
heavily  spotted  with  brown.  A  very  desirable  species. 

T.  silvestris. — Of  this  there  are  several  varieties, 
with  white,  yellow  or  rose  colored  flowers,  some  of  which 
are  slightly  shaded  with  purple  ;  delightfully  fragrant ; 
common  in  France  and  many  other  parts  of  the  continent. 

T.  oculus-solis. — This  species  is  nearly  allied  to 
T.  Gesneriana,  but  is  easily  distinguished  by  its  black 
center,  which  gives  it  the  popular  name,  Sun's  Eye. 
The  flowers  are  always  erect,  and  without  fragrance ; 
opening  so  as  to  form  a  large  cup.  Native  of  Northern 
Italy,  and  some  parts  of  France. 

T.  persica. — A  native  of  Persia,  resembling  the 
Due  van  Thol  Tulip. 

Cultivation  of  the  Tulip. — We  usually  consider 
the  Tulip  to  be  a  hardy  bulb,  capable  of  enduring 
almost  any  amount  of  freezing  without  injury.  In  our 
changeable  climate  there  is,  however,  some  danger  of 
injury  from  contraction  and  expansion  of  soil,  caused  by 
freezing  and  thawing.  It  is,  therefore,  better  to  protect 
the  bulbs  by  a  slight  mulching  of  leaves,  sufficient  to 
prevent  the  frost  from  penetrating  the  earth  below  the 
base  of  the  bulbs. 


TULIP.  295 

The  Tulip  is  not  at  all  particular  as  regards  soil ;  it 
•will  grow  to  perfection  in  the  light  sand  of  Holland, 
and  we  have  had  as  large  and  handsome  flowers  as  ever 
grew,  from  bulbs  in  the  heaviest  clay.  The  only  differ- 
ence is  that  a  light  loamy  or  sandy  soil  can  be  kept  in 
better  condition  than  a  heavy  one,  and  in  such  there 
will  be  a  more  rapid  increase.  In  preparing  a  bed  for 
Tulips,  care  should  be  taken  to  have  it  so  shaped  that  it 
will  shed  water,  which  is  a  greater  injury  to  the  bulbs 
than  frost.  The  soil  should  be  worked  deep  and  made 
rich.  It  would  be  better  to  plant  the  bulbs  in  Septem- 
ber ;  but  that  is  not  practicable,  as  the  space  they  are  to 
occupy  is  already  filled  with  autumn  flowers,  which  can- 
not be  disturbed  until  after  frost.  Therefore,  planting 
must  be  deferred  until  the  ground  is  vacant,  then  put  in 
the  bulbs  without  delay.  If  the  soil  is  heavy,  put  the 
bulbs  chree  inches  below  the  surface ;  if  light,  put  them 
four  inches  below ;  and  six  inches  apart  each  way.  If 
protected,  as  they  should  be,  rake  off  the  covering  as 
soon  as  vegetation  starts,  as  the  Tulip  is  one  of  the  first 
plants  to  appear.  It  will  well  repay  the  cost  to  throw  a 
straw  mat  over  the  bed  whenever  there  is  danger  of 
freezing,  to  protect  the  buds,  and  remove  the  mat  dur- 
ing the  day,  whenever  the  weather  will  permit.  When 
the  flowers  appear,  if  they  are  protected  from  the  sun  by 
a  light  canvas,  say  three  or  four  feet  above  the  flowers, 
their  period  of  bloom  will  be  greatly  lengthened.  The 
colors  are  generally  better  when  not  shaded,  but  a  single 
day's  hot  sun  will  greatly  shorten  their  existence.  As 
soon  as  convenient  after  the  flowers  begin  to  fade,  they 
should  be  cut  away  and  removed  from  the  bed.  When 
the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow,  take  up  the  bulbs  and 
heel  them  in  for  a  few  days,  or  until  they  get  thoroughly 
dry;  a  partially  shaded  situation  is  preferable.  After 
they  are  dry,  place  them  on  a  shelf  for  a  few  days,  then 
put  them  in  paper  bags  until  time  for  planting  again 


296  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

arrives.  The  offsets  may  be  planted  in  the  vegetable 
garden,  or  in  any  convenient  place  where  they  can  receive 
good  cultivation,  and  most  of  them  will  bloom  the 
second  year. 

Tulips  From  Seed. — Tulips  can  be  successfully 
grown  in  many  parts  of  our  country,  from  seed,  but  not 
profitably,  because  of  the  length  of  time  required  to 
grow  them  large  enough  to  flower,  which  is  from  five  to 
seven  years.  It  is,  however,  a  fascinating  work.  The 
seed  should  be  saved  from  the  best  flowers,  and  sown  in 
light  soil  in  a  frame,  where  it  can  be  protected  against 
too  hard  freezing,  and  from  being  washed  out  by  storms ; 
this  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  seed  is  thoroughly 
ripe.  The  first  year,  bulbs  about  the  size  of  peas  will  be 
produced ;  these  must  be  grown  on  in  the  same  manner 
as  flowering  bulbs,  taking  them  up  when  ripe,  and  re- 
planting in  autumn.  When  their  time  for  flowering 
arrives  the  grower's  curiosity  will  be  intense,  and  not 
without  reason  ;  his  long  years  of  patient  industry  are  to 
be  rewarded ;  how  well  or  how  poorly  he  is  anxious  to 
know.  Fortunate  will  he  be  if  his  Tulips  are  up  to  the 
average,  as  not  one  in  a  hundred  seedlings  is  considered 
worthy  of  propagation.  One  thing  is  certain,  all  of 
them  will  be  sure  to  please  him.  Then  he  must  wait 
another  series  of  years,  from  one  to  five,  to  see  if  his 
Tulips  break  into  new  and  desirable  markings.  Whether 
anything  remarkable  has  been  produced  or  not,  the 
excitement  attending  the  effort  will  be  enjoyable. 

Tulips  in  Pots. — There  are  no  more  pleasing 
bulbs  for  the  window  garden  than  the  Single  Early 
Tulips,  when  well  grown,  as  they  can  be  with  as  little 
trouble  as  in  the  growing  of  any  other  class  of  bulbs. 
Put  three  in  a  five  inch  pot  filled  with  ordinary  garden 
soil ;  let  the  top  of  the  bulb  be  just  even  with  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil ;  water  thoroughly,  and  plunge  the  pot 
in  a  cold  frame,  or  in  a  convenient  place  in  the  garden ; 


TULIP.  297 

cover  with  ashes,  or  soil,  and,  above  all,  protect  against 
freezing,  so  that  the  pots  can  be  reached  when  wanted ; 
bring  into  the  house  about  the  middle  of  December,  and 
at  intervals  of  two  weeks,  for  a  succession ;  give  them 
plenty  of  light,  water  and  air,  and  in  the  ordinary  living 
room  they  will  come  into  flower  in  about  six  weeks. 
After  flowering,  throw  the  bulbs  away,  as  they  are  not 
worth  the  cost  of  growing  on  until  they  bloom  again. 

Tulips  For  Cut  Flowers. — For  several  years  past 
Tulips  have  been  popular  winter  and  early  spring  flowers. 
In  the  vicinity  of  New  York  several  millions  have  been 
grown  annually;  too  many,  indeed,  for  the  markets 
were  over-stocked,  which  made  the  industry  unprofitable. 
Many  are  yet  grown,  and  will  continue  to  be,  because 
they  are  well  adapted  for  decorative  purposes,  and  can 
be  produced  cheaper  than  almost  any  other  flowers.  For 
this  purpose  they  are  grown  in  precisely  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  Roman  Hyacinth.  The  bulbs  are  put  into 
flats  as  soon  as  received,  or  as  soon  thereafter  as  conven- 
ient, and  placed  in  racks  in  a  cool,  dark  shed.  The  first 
are  brought  in  about  the  middle  of  December,  and 
forced  into  bloom  by  Christmas.  A  succession  is  kept 
up  as  required.  The  following  sorts  are  best  for  pot 
culture  or  for  the  greenhouse : 

SINGLE  TULIPS  FOB  FORCING. 

Due  van  Thol. — In  variety. 

Chrysolora. — Yellow. 

Le  Mate  las. —Deep  rose,  flushed  white. 

Pottebakker. — White,  scarlet  and  yellow. 

Rose  Luisante. — Fine  deep  rose. 

Rose  Gris-de-lin. — White,  striped  with  rose. 

Vermilion  Brilliant.— Dazzling  scarlet. 

DOUBLE  VARIETIES   FOR  FORCING. 

La  Candeur. — White,  very  double. 
Mvrillp. — Kosy  white. 


298  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-BOOTED  PLANTS. 

Due  van  Thol. — Yellow  and  red  variegated. 

Tournesol. — Ked  and  yellow. 

There  are  numerous  other  varieties  used  for  forcing, 
each  florist  having  a  favorite.  Those  possessing  the 
most  positive  colors,  either  scarlet,  yellow  or  white,  find 
the  readiest  sale.  The  same  are  preferable  for  the  win- 
dow garden. 

TYDEA. 
A  section  of  the  genus  AcMmenes,  Page  1. 

TTKCEOLINA. 

U.  pendula  and  a  variety,  aurea,  belonging  to 
this  small  genus  of  very  pretty  bulbs,  are  found  growing 
in  dense  shade  in  the  Peruvian  Andes.  The  flowers  are 
yellow,  tinged  with  red,  and  with  a  bright  green  edge. 
They  have  strange  markings.  The  variety,  aurea,  has 
yellow  flowers,  with  less  conspicuous  markings.  They 
thrive  in  a  shaded  border,  flowering  in  summer,  but  the 
bulbs  require  to  be  taken  up  in  autumn,  and  kept  very 
dry  and  warm  during  winter.  They  are  increased  by 
offsets,  the  new  bulbs  pushing  a  considerable  distance 
away  from  the  old  ones.  U.  miniata  (Pentlandia)  has 
scarlet  nodding  flowers. 

UKGINEA. 

The  medicinal  Squills  is  obtained  from  U.  maritima. 
The  cultivation  is  the  same  as  for  Scilla,  Page  272. 

UKOPETALTJM. 

A  small  genus  of  Cape  bulbs  formerly  included  in 
Hyacinthus  and  Lachenalia.  They  have  no  real  beauty, 
but  are  occasionally  seen  in  collections  of  curious  plants. 
This  genus  is  now  called  Dipcodi. 

VALLOTA. 
See  Page  23. 


TELTHEIMIA — WACHEffPORFIA.  299 

VELTHEIMIA. 

A  considerable  genus  of  strong-growing  Cape  bulbs, 
of  little  beauty,  but  remarkable  for  the  duration  of  their 
period  of  blooming.  They  are  strictly  greenhouse  bulbs, 
and  should  be  grown  in  sandy  loam.  They  flower  in 
winter,  and  require  complete  rest  in  summer.  Propaga- 
tion by  seeds ;  the  bulbs  rarely  make  offsets. 

VIEUSSEUXIA. 

See  Moraea,  Page  235. 

WACHENDORFIA. 

A  genus  of  strong-growing  Cape  bnlbs,  with  showy 
flowers,  yery  unlike  those  of  most  of  the  kinds  of  bulbous- 
rooted  plants.  The  Wachendorfias  can,  in  fact,  scarcely 
be  called  bulbous  plants,  although  they  are  generally 
classed  with  these  plants  in  trade  catalogues,  and  are 
propagated  by  bulb-like  offsets.  They  bloom  in  summer, 
and  their  Ixia-like  flowers  are  very  showy. 

W.  brevifolia. — Differing  from  the<  other  species 
in  having  evergreen  leaves.  It  must,  however,  have  a 
season  of  rest.  The  stem  is  not  more  than  a  foot  high, 
and  the  panicle  is  large  and  full  of  flowers.  The  flowers 
are  of  a  very  singular  color,  and  without  fragrance. 
The  leaves  are  short  and  very  broad,  with  deep  folds. 
This  species  is  worth  growing,  notwithstanding  the 
dingy  hue  of  the  flowers,  from  their  abundance,  and  the 
compact  habit  of  growth  of  the  whole  plant.  The  lover 
of  neutral  tints  would  see  much  in  this  flower  to  admire. 

WATSONIA. 

A  large  genus  of  half-hardy  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
bulbs  formerly  included  in  Gladiolus,  to  which  some  of 
the  species  are  nearly  allied.  They  are  all  tall-growing, 
showy  flowers,  requiring  the  same  treatment  as  the  Glad- 
iolus (Page  116).  The  flowers  are  generally  very  showy, 


300  BULBS  AND  TUBEKOUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 

but  they  differ  very  much  in  shape,  as  well  as  color,  some 
of  the  kinds  being  tube-shaped,  others  funnel-shaped, 
and  some  salver-shaped.  The  kinds  most  nearly  allied  to 
the  Gladiolus  are  the  handsomest,  because  of  the  large 
size  of  their  flowers,  and  the  brilliancy  of  their  colors. 
They  are  rapidly  increased  from  seeds,  which  are  pro- 
duced freely,  and  by  offsets.  The  bulbs  should  be  kept 
dry  during  winter  the  same  as  the  Gladiolus  (Page  115). 

The  aphis  or  plant  louse,  the  red  spider,  and  the 
scale  insect,  may  be  killed  by  washing  with  soapsuds,  or 
quassia  infusion.  Fumigation  with  tobacco  smoke  is, 
perhaps,  the  best  remedy.  All  insects  may  be  killed 
with  kerosene  emulsion,  or  with  pyrethrum  or  white 
hellebore.  The  most  desirable  of  the  species  are  : 

W.  angusta. — Bright  scarlet  flowers,  produced 
abundantly  in  June  ;  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  species. 
,  W.  humilis. — A  dwarf  and  very  pretty  plant;  the 
flowers  are  large  and  showy,  of  a  beautiful  rose  color. 

VS.  marginata. — A  very  splendid,  Ixia-like  plant, 
with  a  long  spike  of  densely-crowded  pink  flowers. 
This  is  the  only  one  of  the  species  with  fragrant  flowers. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  low,  sandy  hills  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  where  it  grows  in  abundance. 

W.  Meriana. — A  very  beautiful  species  with  dark 
flesh  colored  flowers.  Named  in  honor  of  Sybilla  Merian, 
a  lady  celebrated  for  her  skill  as  an  artist  and  her  knowl- 
edge as  a  naturalist. 

WILD  HYACINTH. 

See  Camassia  Fraseri,  Page  52,  and  Scilla  nutans, 
Page  273. 

WINTER  ACONITE. 

The  popular  name  of  ErantJiis  Jiyemalis,  Page  86. 

ZEPHYKANTHES. 

See  Page  25.     Grouped  with  AmaryUidace®. 


DISEASES  AJSD  OTHEK   ENEMIES.  301 


ZYMOTIC  OB  FUNGUS  DISEASES  AND  OTHEK 
ENEMIES. 

By  reason  of  the  large  supply  of  plant-food  stored 
in  bulbs  and  tubers,  the  resulting  plants  are  able  to 
make  a  very  rapid  growth,  and,  consequently,  rarely 
suffer  from  attacks  of  fungi  or  insects.  Hence  bulbs 
and  tuberous-rooted  plants  seldom  require  applications 
of  either  dry  or  liquid  fungicides,  or  insecticides.  Con- 
cerning the  destructive  fungi,  Dr.  Byron  D.  Halsted,  of 
the  New  Jersey  Experiment  Station,  writes  in  the  Amer- 
ican Agriculturist  as  follows : 

The  Lilies,  which  may,  by  right,  take  the  lead 
among  bulbous  ornamental  plants,  have  several  leaf 
blights,  among  which  are  Sphcerella  cinxia,  Sacc.,  Phyl- 
losticta  liliicola,  Sacc.,  Cylindrosporium  inconspicuum, 
Wint.,  and  Cercosporella  liliicola  (R),  Sacc.  But  it  is 
among  the  rusts  that  we  have  more  conspicuous  and 
sometimes  destructive  species  of  fungi.  Thus,  upon 
Lilies  there  maybe  Uromyces  erythroni  (D.  C.),  Pass., 
with  a  wide  range  of  hosts,  from  the  Crown  Imperial  to 
the  plebeian  Onion;  Uromyces  lilii,  Clint.,  is  a  species 
found  first  on  leaves  of  Lilium  candidum,  at  Buffalo, 
N.  Y.,  and  might  be  called  the  American  Lily  Bust,  to 
distinguish  it  from  some  of  the  others.  Two  species  of 
cluster  cup  fungi  are  recorded  from  the  Lilies,  one  jfficid- 
ium  Safianoffarum,  Thum.,  on  the  Martag;on  Lily,  in 
Siberia,  and  ^cidium  convallarice,  Schm.,  which  flour- 
ishes upon  a  wide  list  of  the  Liliaceous  groups  of  plants. 
AVhile  this  is  by  no  means  the  full  list  of  the  fungi 
attacking  the  Lilies,  it  suffices  to  show  that  there  are 
many  enemies,  possibly  the  worst  of  which  is  to  be  men- 
tioned later. 

The  Hyacinth,  in  like  manner,  has  several  destruc- 
tive fungi,  among  which  are  Dictyuchus  monosporus, 


302 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


Seitg.,  closely  related  to  the  Pythiums,  which  are  among 
the  worst  enemies  known  upon  the  potting  bench  or  in 
the  greenhouse.  Rosellinia  MassinTcii,  Sacc.,  thrives 
upon  the  bulbs,  while,  perhaps,  the  worst  of  all,  is  Bacil- 
lus Jiyacinthi,  Wakk., 
Trev.,  which  is  known 
as  the  Hyacinth  Disease, 
and  will  be  considered 
later. 

The  Tulips  have  two 
species  of  the  rust,  name- 
ly, Puncinia  tulip  a, 
Schw.,  and  P.  Prostii, 
Mong.,  both  thriving 
upon  the  leaves.  There 
is  a  smut,  Ustilago  tulipa 
(#.),Wint.,  of  the  Tulip, 
as  the  specific  name  indi- 
cates. Not  the  least  de- 
structive, particularly  to 
the  bulbs,  is  a  gray  mold, 
Botrytis  parasitica,  Cav., 
which  is  closely  related 
to  the  Botrytis  causing 
the  trouble  among  Lilies, 
known  as  the  Lily  Dis- 
ease. (See  engraving.) 

The  Narcissus  has  a 
rust  preying  upon  it, 
namely,  Puccinia  Schroe- 
theri,  Pass.,  that  some- 
times is  quite  destructive 
to  the  Narcissus poeticus. 
A  rust  upon  the  Crocus  is  known  to  science  as  Uromyces 
croci,  Pass.,  affecting  the  foliage  in  particular.  The 
Gladiolus  has  a  rust,  Urocystis  gladioli  (R)}  Sm.,  upon 


LILY  ATTACKED  BY  BOTRYTIS 
FUNGUS. 


DISEASES  AND  OTHEE   ENEMIES. 


303 


its  bulbs;  a  rust,  Puccinia  gladioli,  Cast.,  upon  the 
leaves,  and  several  blights ;  as,  for  example,  Sphcerella 
fusca,  Pass.,  upon  the  foliage.  Enough  has  been  given 
to  show  that  the  bulbous  ornamental  plants  are  not 
exempt  from  the  fungus  troubles  that  other  cultivated 
plants  are  heir  to. 

Returning  now  to  the  Lily  Disease  so  called,  we  find 
it  an  old  destructive  enemy.  It  has  been  studied  exten- 
sively by  fl.  Marshall  Ward,  who  gives  it  a  whole  chap- 
ter in  his  work  upon 
"Diseases  of  Plants." 
The  same  subject  was 
investigated  by  Mr.  A. 
S.  Kean,  formerly  a 
student  in  my  labora- 
tory, in  Bermuda,  where 
the  growing  of  Lilies 
is  a  leading  industry, 
and  the  disease  is  a 
serious  menace.  His 
results  were  published, 
with  a  large  plate,  in 
the  Botanical  Gazette  BOTRYTIS  FUNGUS,  MAGNIFIED. 
for  January,  1890.  Professor  Ward  calls  the  Lily  Disease 
one  of  the  most  annoying  pests  that  the  horticulturist 
bas  had  to  trouble  him  of  late  years.  The  trouble  first 
shows  itself  as  small  rusty  spots  upon  the  buds  and 
leaves,  and  by  their  enlarging  the  blossoms  are  ruined. 
The  engraving  on  Page  302  shows  the  upper  portion  of 
a  Lily  plant,  with  the  four  buds  badly  attacked  by  the 
Botrytis  fungus.  This  Botrytis  consists  of  coarse 
threads,  which  run  in  all  directions  through  the  attacked 
tissue,  and  finally  appear  upon  the  surface  as  upright 
branched  stalks,  bearing  multitudes  of  spores.  A  mag- 
nified view  of  a  section  of  the  diseased  tissue  is  shown 
in  the  engraving  on  this  page. 


304  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLAHTS. 

This  form  of  mold  is  common  upon  many  plants, 
and  at  times  is  very  destructive  to  root  crops,  as  Turnip 
and  Carrot.  The  Onion,  another  bulbous  plant,  is  often 
attacked  by  the  same  or  a  similar  gray  mold  (Botrytis). 
The  multitudes  of  spores  borne  upon  the  tips  of  the 
branches  germinate  quickly,  and,  when  lying  upon  the 
surface  of  a  Lily  ]eaf,  will  bore  their  tubes  through  the 
epidermis,  as  illustrated  on  this  page.  When  once  inside, 
the  thread  increases  in  size,  and  grows  rapidly  in  length, 
branching  and  causing  decay  as  it  pushes  along.  After 
the  Botrytis  fungus  has  grown  for  a  while  it  may  pro- 
duce dark,  hard  bodies,  by  a  peculiar  twisting  and  knot- 


BOTRYTIS  ON  LILY  LEAF,   MAGNIFIED. 

ting  of  its  threads.  These  dark  masses,  or  sclerotia, 
remain  uninjured  through  the  winter,  and  when  spring 
comes  they  produce  peculiar  trumpet-shaped  outgrowths, 
as  shown  on  Page  306,  which  finally  give  rise  to  multitudes 
of  sporos.  These  are  set  free,  and,  finding  their  way  to 
the  young  Lily,  produce  the  destructive  gray  mold  again. 
These  spores,  by  their  large  numbers  and  quick  growth, 
show  how  it  is  possible  for  the  Lily  Disease  to  spread 
rapidly.  The  Botrytis  is  fond  of  moisture,  and  in  a  dry 
season  the  Lilies  may  generally  escape ;  while,  if  the 
weather  is  damp,  the  destruction  may  be  great.  Mr. 
Kean  suggests,  as  a  remedy,  "The  planting  of  some- 
other  crop  in  alternate  rows,  which,  with  high  and 


,        DISEASES  AJTD    OTHEE  EHEMIES.  305 

spreading  foliage,  will  prevent  the  collection  of  the  dew 
upon  the  leaves,  and  thus  check  the  fungus,  so  depend- 
ent upon  moisture  for  its  propagation." 

The  Hyacinth  Disease  proper  is  ascribed  to  a  micro- 
scopic organism,  cylindrical  in  shape,  and  about  four 
times  as  long  as  broad.  Walker,  who  has  studied  this 
destructive  disease  extensively,  named  the  germ  Bade- 
rium  hyacinthi,  and  brief  accounts  of  the  species  may 
be  found  in  the  leading  works  on  bacteriology,  as  in 
Sternberg,  under  Bacillus  hyacinthi  septicus,  Page  651. 
The  germs  are,  in  appearance,  almost  identical  with 
those  of  many  diseases  of  a  contagious  nature  among 
animals  and  man.  This  is  only  one  of  many  instances 
when  a  species  of  the  higher  plants  is  a  victim  to  the 
ravages  of  one  or  more  of  the  microscopic  organisms, 
also  vegetable  in  nature ;  the  Sorghum  Blight  and  the 
fire  blight  of  Pears  being  two  other  examples.  The  Hy- 
acinth bulbs  that  are  affected  with  the  above  named  bac- 
terium, when  cut  through  with  a  knife,  show  small  pits 
filled  with  a  yellow  mucilage.  It  is  in  this  slime  that 
the  micro-organism  in  question  abounds.  Afc  the  time 
of  flowering,  the  diseased  plants  in  the  field  show  yellow 
streaks  in  the  leaves,  prominent  at  the  base,  and  disap- 
pearing toward  the  tip.  In  these  yellow  lines  the  bac- 
teria swarm,  in  a  slime  which  resembles  that  of  the 
bulbs.  It  will  be  seen  that  little  needs  be  said  in  way  of 
description  of  the  Hyacinth  Disease,  and  there  is  not 
much  yet  to  write  as  to  the  treatment.  A  bulb  that 
exhibits  the  yellow  slime  in  cross  section  would,  if  set  in 
the  field,  produce  a  diseased  plant.  The  nature  of  the 
malady  is  such  that  the  application  of  fungicides  for  sick 
plants,  while  not  without  hope,  does  not  promise  great 
things.  Careful  watching  for  the  disease  and  rejecting 
affected  bulbs  are  the  chief  remedial  agents. 

There  is  a  black  rot  of  the  Hyacinth,  also  found 
upon  Narcissus  and  Scilla  bulbs,  that  is  probably  a  first 
20 


306  BULBS  AKD  TUBEKOUS-KOOIED  PLANTS. 

cousin  of  the  Lily  Disease,  if  not  the  same  thing.  It  has 
the  hard,  dark  masses,  or  sclerotia,  and  the  other  struc- 
tures mentioned  with -the  Botrytis  (see  engraving),  and 
is  probably  Sclerotinia  (Peziza)  bulborum,  Wak. 

The  gummosis,  so  called,  of  the  Hyacinth,  also  com- 
mon to  the  Tulip  and  Ixia  bulbs,  has  likewise  been 
studied  by  Walker.  The  pure  white  gum  pockets  are 
found  mostly  between  the  epidermis  and  tissue  below, 

the  starch  being  replaced 
with  gum  by  a  process  of 
degeneration.  These  gum- 
bearing  cells  may  increase 
abnormally  in  size.  Walker 
'concludes  that  this  gum- 
mosis and  the  " white  rot" 
of  Hyacinths  are  the  same 
thing,  and,  having  failed  to 

BOTRYTIS   SOLATIUM.         ?roduce  the   ^^   ^ 

dition  artificially  by  inoculation,  affirms  thab  there  is  no 
indication  of  the  cause  being  due  to  a  parasite  of  any. 
kind.  This  last  trouble  seems,  therefore,  a  purely  physi- 
ological one,  and  there  are  many  such  among  plants  liv- 
ing under  the  pressure  of  high  culture. 

The  necessity  for  uninfected  soil  and  healthy  bulbs 
is  thus  shown  by  Dr.  Halsted.  In  such  cases  it  is  also 
useful,  according  to  Dr.  William  C.  Sturgis,  of  the 
Connecticut  Experiment  Station,  to  thoroughly  wash  all 
implements  used  in  infested  ground,  to  burn  all  diseased 
plants,  and,  if  possible,  to  burn  over  the  ground  on 
which  they  grew.  As  soon  as  noticed  all  diseased  plants 
should  be  removed  and  burned  immediately.  For  dis- 
eases of  the  leaves  and  other  portions  above  ground, 
some  of  the  usual  fungicides  may  be  found  useful.  Dr. 
Charles  H.  Peck,  State  Botanist  of  New  York,  describes 
their  preparation  as  follows :  The  Bordeaux  mixture, 
diluted  to  half  .the  original  strength,  is  made  by  dissolv- 
ing six  pounds  of  powdered  copper  sulphate  in.  ten  gal- 


DISEASES  AHD  OTHER   ENEMIES.  307 

Ions  of  water.  Slake  four  pounds  of  lime  in  five  gallons 
of  water.  "When  cool,  strain  the  lin  e  water  into  the 
copper  solution  and  add  thirty  gallons  of  water,  making 
forty-five  gallons  of  the  mixture.  If  desirable  to  poison 
insects  at  the  same  time,  four  ounces  of  Paris  green  or 
London  purple  may  be  added  to  this  amount  of  the  mix- 
ture. The  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  solution,  also 
diluted  to  half  the  original  strength,  is  made  by  adding 
to  five  ounces  of  copper  carbonate  enough  water  to  make 
a  thick  paste.  On  this  pour  three  pints  of  strong  aqua 
ammonia,  or  enough  to  dissolve  the  paste.  Add  forty- 
five  gallons  of  water.  Paris  green  should  not  be  used 
with  this.  To  make  the  potassium  sulphide  solution, 
dissolve  one  ounce  of  potassium  sulphide  in  two  gallons 
of  water.  For  larger  quantities  of  any  of  the  solutions 
use  the  same  proportions.  The  treatment  of  insects  by 
pyrethrum  or  insect  powder,  and  by  arsenites,  and  the 
remedies  for  other  pests,  are  given  throughout  this  vol- 
ume, in  the  descriptions  of  the  plants  they  attack. 

For  the  remedial  treatment  of  tubers  and  bulbs 
affected  with  injurious  fungi,  the  successful  researches 
on  the  Potato-scab  fungus,  by  Prof.  H.  L.  Bolley,  of 
the  North  Dakota  Experiment  Station,  are  very  sugges- 
tive. He  succeeded  in  killing  the  fungus  spores  and 
raised  a  crop  of  healthy  tubers,  by  treating  the  washed 
seed  tubers  to  a  ninety  minutes'  immersion  in  a  weak 
solution,  one  part  in  one  thousandth,  of  corrosive  subli- 
mate or  mercuric  bichloride.  Two  ounces  of  this  deadly 
poison,  finely  pulverized  by  the  pharmacist,  were  dis- 
solved in  two  gallons  of  hot  water  for  twelve  hours,  in  a 
vessel  not  made  of  metal,  and  then  diluted  with  thirteen 
more  gallons  of  cold  water.  The  cleaned  and  washed 
tubers  were  then  soaked  in  this  solution  for  one  hour 
and  a  half.  Caution  should  be  used,  as  the  solution  is 
poisonous.  The  best  preventive  of  all  plant  diseases  is  a 
vigorous  growth,  brought  about  by  healthful  conditions 
of  fertility,  moisture  and  sunlight. 


INDEX. 


Achimenes 1 

species 3 

varieties 3 

Acis 4 

Adders'  Tongue 88 

African  Lilies 5 

Agapanthus 5 

Ajax 7 

Albuca 9 

Alocasia  macro rhiza 59 

Amaryllis 10 

Atamasco 25 

Candida 25 

Ammocharis 26 

Ammonia— copper  solution  —  307 

Anemone 27 

Anomatheca 30 

Antholyza 30 

Apios  ." 31 

Arissema 31 

Arum  Lily 33,  267 

Asclepias 33 

Atamasco  Lily 33 

Babiana 34 

Baby's  Breath 36,  236 


Barbadoes  Lily 36 

Barnardia 36 

Begonia  (Tuberous-rooted) 37 

Belamcandia  chinensis 251 

Belladonna  Lily 36 

Bellevalia 36 

Bessera 43 

Blaudfordia 44 

Blights 301,  307 

Blood  Flower 136 

Bloodroot 271 

Bluebell 273 

Bordeaux  mixture 306 

Bot rytis 302,  306 

Bravoa 45 

Brodisea, 45 

Brunsvigia 18 

Bn  1  bocod  Sum 45 

Butterfly  Weed 33 

Caladium 46 

Esculentum 60 

Caliphruria 41) 

Calla 49,  267 

Black 270 

Yellow 270 

Calliprora 49 

308 


Calochortus 49 

Calpscordum 50 

Calostemma 50 

Cainassia 52 

Canna 52 

Cape  Bulbs 166-168 

Cape  Cowslips 168 

Carpolysa 58 

Checkered  Lily 92 

Chinese  Sacred  Lily 240 

Chlidanthus 58 

Choretis  58 

Climbing  Lily 130 

Clivia 58 

Coburgia 58 

Colchicum 59 

Colocasia 59 

Commelina 61 

Conanthera 61 

Convallaria 61 

Cooperi  a 66 

Corbularia 67 

Corn  Flag 103 

Corrosive  sublimate  solution  ..  307 

Crin  uin 19 

Crocus 67 

disease 302 

varieties 70 

Crown  Imperial 94 

Cummingia 61 

Cyanella 71 

Cyclamen 72 

species 75 

Cyclobothra 50 

Cypella 76 

Cyrtanthus 76 

Daffodil 236 

Rush  (N.  JTtnclf ollUS) 242 

White  Spanish 243 

Dahlia 76 

cultivation 82 

propagation 82 

Single 81 

species 85 

Daubenya. 85 

Day  Flower 61 

Diseases .301-307 

Dog's  Tooth  Violet 88 

Dragon  Plant 33 

Drimia 86 

Dutch  Bulbs 86 


INDEX. 


309 


Egyptian  Lily 267 

Elist-na 86 

Enemies  301-307 

Kranthis 86 

Krinosma 169 

Eriospermum 88 

Ery  t  hron ium 88 

Kucharia 89 

Ei  KM)  in  is 90 

Eurrosia 91 

Eurycles 91 

Even  in g  Flower 137 

Fairy  Lily 25 

Feathered  Hyacinth 236 

Ferrari  a *> 91 

Flag  Flower. ". 92 

Flame  Lily 262 

Fleur  tie  Lis  or  Flower  de  Luce  159 

French  Tulip 92 

Friiillaria 92 

Fungicides 306,  307 

Fungus  diseases 301-307 

Gagea 95 

Galanthus 95 

Galaxia 97 

Galionia 97 

Ganymedes  (X.  junclfolius)  —  242 

Garlic 9 

Honey 244 

Gastronema 76 

Geissorhiza 98 

Gesnera 100 

Gelhy  His 100 

Gladiolus 101 

deterioration 120 

general  cultivation  of 116 

hybrids Ill 

propagation  by  offsets 115 

rust 302 

selecting  seed  of 114 

varieties 124 

Gloriosa 130 

Gloxinia 131 

Golden  Lily 230 

Grape  Hyacinth 236 

Green  Dragon 31 

Grifflnia  135 

Ground  Xut 31 

Guernsey  Lily 21 

Guinea-Hen  Flower 92 

Habranthus 13 

Hsemanthus 136 

Harebell 273 

Haylockia 137 

Herbertia 137 

Hesperantha 137 

Hesperoscordon 45 

Hexaglottis 137 

Hippeastrum 13 

propagation  by  offsets 15 

propagation  by  seed 14 

Holland  Bulbs 138 

Homeria 138 

Honey  Garlic 244 

Hyacinth 138 

blooming  in  glasses 149 

California t...    45 


Hyacinth  diseases 301,  305-6 

Dutch 138 

Dutch  Roman 155 

Feathered 236 

field  culture 140 

garden  culture 144 

Grape 236 

growing  in  pots 147 

gummosis 306 

Missouri 233 

Musk 236 

Persian 156 

propagation 143 

Roman 153 

Tufted 236 

varieties 149 

variet  ies  for  glasses 153 

varieties  for  pots 153 

White  Cape 97 

Wild 52 

Wild  American 51 

Hyacinthus  camlicans 97 

Hydrotaenia 157 

Hymenocallis 157",  250 

Hypoxis 158 

Imantophyllum 159 

Indian  Shot 52 

Indian  Turnip 31 

Insecticides 307 

Insects 307 

Iris 159 

Chalcedonian 161 

English 160 

German 163 

Japanese 164 

Ksempferi 164 

Persian 161 

Peacock 161 

Snake's  Head 161 

Tuberous-rooted 163 

Ismene 157 

Ixia 166 

gummosis 306 

Ixiolirion 168 

Jack  in  the  Pulpit 31 

Jacobean  Lily 22 

Jon  qu il 242 

Lachenalia 168 

Lapeyrousia 169 

Leopard  Flower 251 

Leucocoryne  169 

Libertia 170 

Lilium 171 

Lily 171 

Bermuda 189 

best  soil  for 181 

Black  berry 251 

Checkered 92 

Chinese  Sacred 243 

Climbing 130 

cultivation 174 

Fairy 25 

forcing  for  winter  flowers. .  187 

for  the  garden 229 

Golden  Rayed 195 

how  to  plant 183 

Jacobean , 2g 


310 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLAKTS. 


Lily,  Mariposa 49 

Meadow  201 

Mount  Etna 22 

not  hardy 174 

of  the  Nile 267 

of  the  Valley 61 

Panther 218 

Scarborough 23 

species  and  varieties 195 

Swamp 226 

Tiger 227 

Tiger,  Double  Flowering 228 

wet  soil  injurious  to 179 

when  to  plant 184 

Lochiera 230 

Lycoris  230 

Mariposa  Lily 49 

Massonia 230 

Meadow  Saffron  231 

Mexican  Bulbs 231,  275 

Lily 18 

Merendera 231 

Milla 231 

Missouri  Hyacinth 52 

Montbretia 233 

Mount  Etna  Lily 22 

Morsea 235 

Moutan  or  Tree  Peony 255 

Muscari 235 

Narcissus 236 

Butter  and  Eggs 238 

Chinese  Sacred 240,  243 

derivation  of  name 244 

diseases 302-305 

forcing 240 

Fragrant 243 

Hoop  Petticoat 242 

(triandrus)  juncif olius 242 

Paper  White 239,  244 

Poets' 238 

Polyanthus 238 

Rush-leaved 242 

Ta/etta 239 

Nasturtium 280 

Nectaroscordium 244 

Nerine 21,  244 

Onion 9 

Lily 245 

Oporanthus 244 

Ornit hogalum 244 

Long-tailed 245 

Oveida 169 

Oxalis 246 

Pseoiiia 253 

Pancratium 250 

Pentlandia 298 

Peony 253 

Fine  Leaved 256 

Shrubby  or  Tree 253 

varieties  of  herbaceous 255 

Peruvian  Daffodil 157 

Peyrousia 169 

Phsedranassa 257 

Phallocallis 76 

Phy cella 257 

Plantia 137 

Pleurisy-root , 33 


Polianthes  tnberosa,  Tuberose.  258 

Poppy  Anemone 28 

Potassium  sulphide  solution. . .  307 

Puschkinia 262 

Pyrolirion 262 

Quamash  52 

Queen  Lily 257 

Ranunculus 263 

Richardia  (Calla) 267 

Rigidella 271 

Roman  Hyacinth 153 

Squill 271 

Romuela 278 

Rusts 301-307 

St.  Agnes  Flower 169 

Sanguinaria 271 

Scarborough  Lily 23 

Scilla  272 

disease 305 

Fraseri 52 

Sea  Daffodil 250 

Smuts 302 

Snowdrop 95 

Snowflake 169 

Sowbread 72 

Sparaxis 274 

Spraying  mixtures 306-307 

Sprekelia 22 

Spring  Snowflake 169 

Squill 272 

Chinese 36 

Roman 36 

Syrian 271 

Star  Grass 158 

of  Bethlehem 246 

Steiiomesson 274 

Stern  bergia 22 

Strumaria 275 

Summer  Snowflake 170 

Tigridia 275 

Tiger  Canna 57 

Flower 275 

Iris 275 

Tile  Root 98 

Trichonema 278 

Trillium 278 

Triteleia 278 

Tritonia 279 

Tropseolum 280 

Tuberose 258 

culture  of 260 

Pearl 260 

Pearl,  in  greenhouse 2(51 

Tulip  (Tulipa) 281 

cultivation  of 294 

diseases 302,  306 

Due  van  Thol 291 

Early  double 292 

Garden  or  Show 283 

Horned 293 

Lady 293 

Parrot 291 

Single  early 288 

soil  for 295 

varieties  for  the  garden  —  290 

Tulips  from  Seed 296 

Double  forcing 297 


INDEX. 


311 


Tulips  for  cut  flowers 297 

inputs 296 

Single  forcing 297 

Tydea 1 

U rceolina 298 

Urglnea 298 

Uromyces 301 

Uropetalum 298 

Vallota 23 


Veltheimia 299 

Vieusseuxia 235 

Waohendorfla 299 

Wake  Robin 278 

Watsonia 299 

Wild  Hyacinth 273 

Winter  Aconite 86 

Wood  Lily 278 

Zephyruuthes 25 


IBB 


« 


YB  48623 

»' 


268711 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


